Map In My Pocket

Month: July 2017

Road Tripping through Konaseema

Konaseema. The lush bucolic countryside of Coastal Andhra. ‘Kona’ for corner, this land wedged into a corner surrounded by water, is one of the most fertile deltas of Southern India. The Godavari river keeps you company, as you Road Trip through these idyllic coastal towns. Known for its beauty, Konaseema has been depicted extensively with its swaying coconut trees and green backwater canals.

But, how best do you enjoy this beauty? For it is no tourist destination like Kerala where houseboats abound aplenty on the backwaters.

So here I chose one town, rather a small city, Kakinada and put together a two day itinerary for a road trip through Konaseema, that include visits to beaches, ancient temples and artisan villages.

Window Views of Konaseema

Story goes.. There was once a powerful asura (demon) Tarakasura who was at war with the gods and thanks to a boon, he could only be killed by a son of Lord Shiva. So there began a battle between him and Kumaraswamy, Shiva’s younger son and Lord Ganesha’s brother. But, at every deadly blow, the rakshasa, Tarakasura would reform limb to limb from his cut off body parts. This power to reform came from a Shiva Linga that the demon wore. So the only way to destroy him was to break the lingam first. Eventually, there came to be five pieces of this Siva lingam and these fell in five different places in Andhra Pradesh. Temples were then built in those locations around the fragments. Those five ancient temples now constitute the Pancharamam.

& Kakinada happens to have two of those in driving distance.

Bhimaramam (at Samarlakota)

All the pancharamam temples are two storeyed stone temples for they are all home to massive Shivalingas.

To continue the story, the five fragments were installed and worshipped at five temples by the five gods, Indra, Surya, Chandra, Vishnu and Kumaraswamy. This one near Samarlakota was by Kumaraswamy himself. & the temple itself is beautiful, peaceful and not too crowded.

Draksharamam

Probably the biggest and definitely the most celebrated of the five is Draksharamam, a pancharamam and also a shakti peetham. This 10th century temple has a rich history of mythological legends associated with. It is even believed to be the site of Dakshayagnam and that Daksha’s daughter Sati is none other than the Goddess Manikyamba who is alongside Shiva in this temple. Making it one of the major asthadasa shakti peethams in the country.

Annavaram

In Annavaram is a small hill, Ratnagiri, which is home to the temple dedicated to Lord Satyanarayan Swamy. A form of Lord Vishnu, that all Hindus worship at weddings, housewarmings and all important social occasions in one’s life. Making this a pilgrimage centre that is second in popularity only to Tirupati.

Uppada

The famous handcrafted Jamdani silk sarees come from here. Need I say more?

READ: Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Uppada

& The Beach

Explorers Guide

Getting There: Every place on the itinerary is less than an hour and a half from Kakinada.
Distances from Kakinada:
Samarlakota – 15 kilometres
Draksharamam – 34 kilometres
Annavaram – 45 kilometres
Uppada – 16 kilometres
Highway Pit Stop: One. Foodcourt near Annavaram.
Best Time to Visit: Monsoons
Stay: Paradigm Sarovar Portico. Comfortable and centrally located.
Vegetarian Restaurants: Subbaya’s Hotel, Bhimas.
Bring Back: Kakinada Kaja

July 23, 2017
20 Photos to Inspire You to Visit Spiti Valley this Summer

Here are 20 Photos to Inspire you to visit Spiti Valley this Summer. Ladakh’s lesser known cousin.

Separated from the popular Kullu valley in Himachal Pradesh by the Rohtang Pass, this middle land between India and Tibet is home to some of the most stunning lakes and monasteries in the world.

Of which, the mythical Chandratal Lake is one. Roads to the lake open mid July. So, peak tourist season in the Spiti Valley (for lack of a better word, tourism is yet to catch on here the way it has in Ladakh) is July and August. A difficult terrain as is, the four months of summer is when this desert valley in the Himalayas is most accessible.

Road Trip through tricky terrains, along rocky roads.

Be amazed by the stark landscapes.

Or the ‘moonscape’ of this land, as it has come to be known.

Rediscover colour.

Vivid skies, cloud shadows, wild flowers et al.

Fall in love.

With the starry nights.

Find peace amidst the many Himalayan Monasteries.

Befriend the most adorable kids you will ever see!

Stay with the locals in a homestay and experience life, their way.

Get to know them. In their houses that are built to shelter them in the harsh winter months when they can only be indoors. Over soft, doughy bread which is but a variant of our regular Indian roti and sweet milky chai.

& of course, no trip to Spiti Valley is complete without a visit to the Chandratal Lake.

Did You Know? The Chandratal Lake reflects the colour of the sky. So the lake is a bright turquoise blue at sunrise and a lush serene green at sunset!

Besides, it isn’t just this one lake in Spiti Valley that is breathtaking. There are more.

Read Next: a Fortress, a Monastery & a Lake: Dhankar

Read More on Spiti:

Driving through Lahaul & Spiti
Where The Monasteries are.
The Road to Serenity: Chandratal

July 18, 2017
Streets of Pondicherry – Part II: Architecture

They say if you can’t afford a ticket to Europe, travel to Pondicherry instead.

Stroll through the white part of town and be transported in time and place to a laid back French town. Or just wander the streets to absorb the distinctive Franco-Tamil culture of the place.

This small seaside town has a lot to offer for those who are looking for a leisurely laid-back holiday.

There is always coffee and croissants to intersperse your endless explorations with. For, Puducherry is blessed with both – cafes & heritage – in abundance!

Once an important port of call and a very prominent fortified town, as it changed hands, it was razed to ground and its ramparts flattened to what are today the tree lined boulevards of Pondicherry.

Laid out in a grid, the town is divided into the French and Tamil quarters by a storm water canal.

Both these quarters are so distinctive that you can tell which part of town you are in just from colour and style of the houses that go from classical European architecture to vernacular Tamil in a step.

As a lingering shadow of its European past follows you along its every street or rue as it known here, the historical richness of this town comes to life. In its art & architecture.

So what could possibly be a better way to discover this quaint little town than via Heritage Walks and Cycle Tours!

My first day in Pondicherry, I walked 9.6 kilometres to be exact. Discovering urban street art and restored heritage bungalows.

Besides, in this town of neat little blocks, self reliance comes easy to a girl, who just wants to explore, camera in hand.

I have been to Pondicherry thrice. & my longing for it only gets the stronger. :)

PS: INTACH or The Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage has been working with the Government of Pondicherry and its public to conserve and restore the unprotected architectural heritage and townscape of Pondicherry. Almost all of the heritage buildings you see today have been brought back to life by them. Even the rocks to tame the sea on the famous promenade were by them.

They conduct heritage walks in the white town every morning and evening. Ending on the promenade, this hour long walk is a perfect way to to get to the beach just in time for dusk.

Read First: Streets of Pondicherry – Part I: Art

July 12, 2017
Armoor: Of Rocks and Hidden Temples

In Nizamabad, is a temple. Though not quite as legendary as the Dichpally Ramalayam, but just as historic. Popularly known as Armoor Siddula Gutta, this is the Navanatha Siddheswara Temple and a series of cave temples inside the rock formations of Armoor.

Armoor Rock Formations

As you drive along the highway from Nizamabad to Armoor, you will go past a long stretch of hills that look like they were made by someone who has artistically and quite laboriously piled up boulders to form them. These are the Armoor Rock Formations. Naturally weathered rocks crafted by mother nature for over millions of years. They are so distinctively striking that they are but a natural stopover for anyone driving that way and rightly so.

Sitting in a cave somewhere in those rocks is the Navantha Siddula Gutta, gutta for cave and Navanatha Siddhas for the sages who are believed to still reside in them.

Armoor Siddula Gutta

Fifteen years ago a ghat road was built through the rock formation, leading straight to Siddulagutta. There is also a walkway from the Gol Bungalow for pilgrims wishing to do the climb up to the temple by foot.

Inside these caves is a Shiva Temple, where the Shiva Lingam is said to be swaymbhu or self-manifested. It is said that the lingam here has always been worshipped by devotees, since the Tretayuga. That is the second age of mankind, in Hinduism! We are currently in the fourth.

The entrance to this cave temple is a door that is barely three feet. Once you crouch through it, the cave opens up and skylight filters in. You walk along in the designated route through the caves and you will come across many little temples in interconnected passageways. Even one dedicated to the Goddess Durga.

Just outside the exit point of this narrow cave is a Ramalayam and the temple tank, Jeeva Koneru. Legend has it that during the construction of the temple, when this tank was dug, it failed to well up with water. So, Rampriyadas Maharaj, the person who built the temple took up a tapasaya, that lasted forty-one days. At the end of which Lord Rama himself came to him in a dream and the water in this is believed to have been blessed with curative powers. Making the armoor siddula gutta popular amongst pilgrims undertaking the journey to be healed.

Otherwise quiet and forgotten, the temple tends to get crowded on the festival of Sri Rama Navami. Work is currently underway to build facilities to accommodate these devotees and also other temples around it on the flat ground between the rocks.

Beyond the Cave Temples

Further up the rocks, the summit flattens out into a breezy plateau. The village of Armoor with its houses of redbrick roofs and the setting sun glinting off the black rocks lend the landscape such beauty, that it has actually been the location for many a movie shoot.

Just about perfect for that evening picnic.

Explorers Guide

Distance from Hyderabad: 184 Kilometres
Trip Duration: Day Trip
Getting There: Armoor is around 37 kilometres from the town of Nizamabad, along the intersection of NH7 and NH16.
Other Places of Interest: Pochampadu Dam (Sri Rama Sagar Project)
30 kilometres from here this dam on the Godavari River is widely accepted to be the lifeline of Northern Telangana. It is quite a sight to behold when its forty-two floodgates are open.

Read More on Temples in Telangana

Town of Hymns: Manthani
Lost in Time: Nagunur Ruins
South India’s City of Moksh: Alampur
A Song of Stone: Dichpally Ramalayam

July 1, 2017