Month: August 2018

  • Cafe Review: Bombay Coffee Roasters, Goa

    Cafe Review: Bombay Coffee Roasters, Goa

    “The Beach is Boring”, proclaims the lone print on the walls of the Bombay Coffee Roasters, Goa. A quiet urban cafe tucked away in a colourful corner, somewhere along the winding  lanes of Fontainhas in Panaji (Panjim), Goa’s capital city.

    & why would you need a boring beach when you have coffee and wifi?!!!

    Well, Bombay Coffee Roasters was originally developed as a kind of co-working space, a hostel and an all day cafe that was designed to cater to the new generation of artists, entrepreneurs and “free spirits”. So, go here for the wifi.

    Or even better, go here for breakfast. For this cafe in the old Latin Quarter, serves the best homemade breakfast in Goa.

    Bombay Coffee Roasters, Panaji, Goa

    Cafes in Panaji_Bombay Coffee Roasters_2Cafes in Panjim_Bombay Coffee Roasters_8Cafes in Panaji_Bombay Coffee Roasters_3.jpgCafes in Panjim_Bombay Coffee Roasters_5Cafes in Panjim_Bombay Coffee Roasters_1Cafes in Panaji_Bombay Coffee Roasters_1

    Ambience | Design + Crowd

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    Lovely in the monsoons. Just the right amount of cosy and quiet to spend a few good hours working, chatting with friends or simply reading with coffee on the side.

    Food

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    Best breakfast in town. Vegetarian friendly. Fresh, homemade and great on taste.

    Service | People + Hospitality

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    Easy going friendly staff who let you be. But, still are warm and helpful.

    Value for Money | Price + Experience

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    It is an oasis of calm in the otherwise outrageously touristy Goa. Making it like no other cafe in town.


    Old Quarter by The Hostel Crowd

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    Cafes_Hostels in Panjim_Bombay Coffee Roasters_Old Quarter_2.jpg


    Explorers Guide

    Timings | 8 AM – 8 PM

    Getting There

    [googlemaps https://www.google.com/maps/embed?pb=!1m14!1m8!1m3!1d5432.096372358329!2d73.8340090264237!3d15.497840395780234!3m2!1i1024!2i768!4f13.1!3m3!1m2!1s0x0%3A0x714584ce19c1bf63!2sBombay+Coffee+Roasters!5e0!3m2!1sen!2sin!4v1534488714582&w=945&h=450]


    Bombay Coffee Roasters Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato

  • Road Trip Guide: Hyderabad to Bidar

    Road Trip Guide: Hyderabad to Bidar

    In the northeastern corner of Karnataka, closer to Hyderabad than any other city in the state is Bidar.  It is a city steeped in Islamic history and if you love visiting places of historic and cultural significance and can’t get enough of architecture, Hyderabad to Bidar is the one road trip that you must take. Even the celebrated Bidri Artwork though known as a Hyderabadi Artform, originally comes from here. 

    Hyderabad to Bidar Distance | 135 Kilometres

    Drive Time | 3 Hours
    Trip Duration | 
    Full Day

    Hyderabad to Bidar Road Trip Map.jpg
    Hyderabad to Bidar Route Map

    Places to Visit in Bidar

    Bidar Fort

    Road Trip Destinations from Hyderabad_Bidar
    Inside the expansive Bidar Fort

    The most prominent landmark of this city though is the Bidar Fort. It was built by the first sultan of the Bahamani Dynasty, Ala Ud Din Bahaman Shah when he set up his capital in Bidar, this city that dates back to the third century BC. Built on the brink of the Deccan Plateau, the Bidar Fort has been damaged and renovated many a time, but it stands till date as one of the strongest and the better-preserved medieval forts of the country.

    Chaubara

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    Chaubara, Bidar’s most popular landmark, at the heart of town.

    Once a watchtower, this cylindrical Chaubara of twenty two meters is now a popular clock tower  in the area serving as a landmark from where all the roads lead into different parts of town.

    Khwaja Mahmud Gawan Madrasa

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    The facade of Khwaja Mahmud Gawan Madrasa in the Old City Fort Area

    This Madrasa, the Madrasa Mahmud Gawan, that housed everything from lecture halls and a library to housing for professors and students – everything that could be thought of over five centuries ago – and even a mosque was built by Mahmud Gawan. And, so the name,  Khwaja Mahmud Gawan Madrasa. He, in 1466, was the Prime Minister and an important figure in the Bidar Sultanate. Despite the ruined façade on the main road, you can still parts of all this still standing, once you go in or even just cross the road.

    Bahamani Tombs

    Bidar_Places to visit_Bahamani Tombs in Ashtur
    Bahamani Tombs in Ashtur

    Four kilometres from the Bidar Fort is the final resting place of the Bahamani Sultans, the little known Bahamani Tombs. Some of these are in a state of disrepair today, but even these crumbling mausoleums stand a beautiful testimony to the art of an era gone by. And, no visit to Bidar is complete without a trip to these majestic structures located in Ashtur.

    READ:  The City of Whispering Tombs: Bidar

    Chaukhandi Hazrat Khalil Ullah

    Bidar_Places to visit_Chaukhandi Hazrat Khalil Ullah.jpg
    Chaukhandi, Dargah of Hazrat Nemat Ullah Shah Kirmani in Ashtur

    En route to Ashtur just before you get to the tombs, on the left is yet another idyllic setting for the ancient, to rest in peace, the Dargah Hazrat Nemat Ullah Shah Kirmani. Known simply as the Chaukhandi, this octagonal structure beautiful in its simplicity and clean lines is set in a lush expanse of green and is the tomb of Hazrat Khalil Ullah, a popular religious preceptor of the Bahamani Period.

    Gurudwara Sri Nanak Jhira Saheb 

    Bidar_Places to visit_Gurudwara Sri Nanak Jhira Saheb
    Entrance Gate of Gurudwara Sri Nanak Jhira Saheb

    The most frequented tourist destination in Bidar, though, remains the Gurudwara Sri Nanak Jhira Saheb. People of all faiths come here – sometimes even straight from the Hyderabad airport – to get the holy water from spring in the Gurudwara, which is believed to possess powers of healing. The structure itself is a classic example for modern day religious splendour, probably the grandest gurudwara I have visited till date. But,  this for me completely shadowed the moment of quiet and tranquility usually experienced in a Gurudwara.

    Sri Jharani Narasimha Swamy Cave Temple

    The Jharani Narasimha Swamy Cave Temple is yet another popular destination, albeit of a different faith in the largely Islam dominated Bidar. Pilgrims have to wade through waist deep water in an underground cave to reach the inner sanctum of the temple get darshan of  Sri Narasimha Swamy. Quite an experience in itself, that.

    Hyderabad to Bidar Road Trip 

    Itinerary + Route

    • Leave early morning from Hyderabad and you should be in Bidar in less than two and a half hours. Just in time for when the Bidar Fort opens and is relatively less crowded.
    • Right in the heart of town are the two famous landmarks  – Chaubara and Madrasa Mahmud Gawan. Visit these next, after the Bidar Fort.
    • A few minutes from here on Chaubara Road are stores selling Bidriware. One can make a quick stop for souvenirs.
    • On the way out of town, head to the Bahamani Tombs in Ashtur and the Chaukhandi Hazrat Khalil Ullah which is enroute there.
    • While on the road back to Hyderabad, one can visit the Gurudwara Nanak Jhira Sahib or even takea short detour to the Jharani Narasimha Swamy Cave Temple.

    Bidar Map

    [googlemaps https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/embed?mid=1yPC-pKAh0UKP7xsIEA_XrkgA9oTPLr3B&w=945&h=480]

    Getting There

    From the ORR, take the NH65 till Zaheerabad and then head right.

    Pit Stop

    Famous Tea Point near Sangareddy. This little dhaba claims to serve the best tasting Chai in the area, so much so that you will see cars parked all along the highway. So if you are craving some good old Irani Chai, you could make road trip just to and back from here!

    Travel with me. Come find me on Instagram, Facebook or Twitter.

    For a more comprehensive Road Trip Guide to Hyderabad 

    weekend getaways from hyderabad.jpg

  • 28 Interesting Books to Read Before Travelling to India

    28 Interesting Books to Read Before Travelling to India

    1. A Strange and Sublime Address | By Amit Chaudhuri

    Genre | Fiction
    Where To ? Calcutta (Kolkata)

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    A Strange and Sublime Address is the widely acclaimed author and critic Amit Chaudhari’s first novel. Set in 1960s Calcutta, the book is built on the author’s childhood memories and his fascination and confusion with the city when he would visit it as a child during his summer holidays. A nuanced and languorous book, A Strange and Sublime Address manages to bring to life the city of Calcutta in exquisite detail.

    e-Book of A Strange and Sublime Address for Kindle: Here.

    2. City of Djinns | By William Dalrymple

    Genre | Travel / Memoir
    Where To ? Delhi

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    City of Djinns is William Dalrymple’s second book right after his super successful debut, In Xanadu, and also the first of his odes to his continuing muse that is India. Drawing from his time in Delhi with his wife, he unravels the historic city through anecdotes set against the backdrop of its ancient past. Peppered here and there with what it is today in its modern avatar. City of Djinns is an immersive journey of discovery to the very essence of India’s capital city.

    e-Book of City of Djinns for Kindle: Here.

    3. Cuckold | By Kiran Nagarkar

    Genre | Fiction / Historical Novel
    Where To ?  Rajasthan (Princely State of Mewar – now, Udaipur & around)
    Pit Stops | Chittorgarh Fort, Ranakpur Jain Temple

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    “It never occurred to me that I was writing about the past”, said Kiran Nagarkar in an interview about Cuckold. Set in the 15th-16th centuries Rajasthan, Cuckold – with the Rana Sanga of  Mewar, his eldest son and daughter-in-law (none other than the fabled princess-saint, Meera Bai) as its protagonists – is more than just a historical novel. It is a tale of mighty proportions that interweaves fact and fiction, myth and faith, strategy and intrigue all at once.

    e-Book of Cuckold for Kindle: Here.

    4. Family Matters  | By Rohinton Mistry

    Genre | Fiction
    Where To ?  Bombay (Mumbai)

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    Family Matters‘s strength is its characters. And, it is through these characters that we see Bombay. Not just the Bombay of the nineties with its overcrowded commuter trains but even the 1930s colonial Bombay with its beautiful buildings. But, most of all it is the Parsi Bombay that we area afforded a peek into –  as a dysfunctional family with its intense character unravels completely only to find itself and its ‘history’.

    e-Book of Family Matters for Kindle: Here.

    5. Karma Cola | By Gita Mehta

    Genre | Travel
    Where To ? India

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    Set in the 1960’s India, Gita Mehta’s Karma Cola is an irreverent take on ‘when the hippies came to India’. Follow the hippie trail, venture into the very heartland of India as an Indian and be a witness to the commoditisation of ‘Karma’ (or the spirituality of the East)  and what happens when it is sold to the Americans (or rather the West) very much like the Coca Cola they sell even today  to the Indian masses.

    e-Book of Karma Cola for Kindle: Here.

    6. Life of Pi | By Yann Martel

    Genre| Fiction / Adventure
    Where To ? Pondicherry & Beyond

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    I, as a rule, never abandon a book that I am reading and Life of Pi, was that one rare book which I gave up on, half way. (The only other being A House for Mr.Biswas). But, that was over a decade ago and since then Life of Pi has been made into a much talked about live action movie. And, well, Pi’s childhood, before he is stranded in the Pacific Ocean with an Indian Bengal Tiger on a lifeboat, is set in Pondicherry and the Zoo in question is the very same City Zoo there.

    e-Book of Life of Pi for Kindle: On Kindle Unlimited

    7. Love and Longing in Bombay | By Vikram Chandra

    Genre | Fiction (Collection of Short Stories)
    Where To ?  Bombay (Mumbai)

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    Love and Longing in Bombay by Vikram Chandra is the book that beat Arundhati Roy’s The God of Small Things to the Commonwealth Writers Prize in 1997. Five stories that talk of love and longing, named after the Purusharthas  – Dharma (righteousness), Artha (wealth),  Kama (desire), Moksha (salvation) – the Hindu concept of human pursuit. Only, Shakti (strength) and Shanti (peace) replace Moksha in Vikram Chandra’s collection of  stories.

    e-Book of Love and Longing in Bombay for Kindle: Here.

    8. Lunatic in My Head | By Anjum Hasan

    Genre | Fiction
    Where To ?  Shillong

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    Anjum Hasan’s first book was also the first book I ever read that was set in the North East – that mysterious part of India, which is stunningly beautiful but rarely talked about. Lunatic in My Head evocatively captures the charm of an Indian hill town. The author mentions how she has tried to portray her relationship with Shillong  – the place, its people and the ‘music that runs in their veins’. Which probably explains the inspiration for the title itself.

    Remember that Pink Floyd song??

    e-Book of Lunatic in My Head for Kindle: Here.

    9. Made in Kolkata | By Fiona Caulfield

    Genre | Travel Guide
    Where To ?  Kolkata

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    First of the Love Travel Guide Series – handbooks for the ‘luxury vagabond’ – by Fiona Caulfield, Made in Kolkata is a beautiful handcrafted pean to the city of Kolkata. This cloth bound travel guide takes you to places that the locals love and are completely off the regular tourist radar. What’s more this fabulously curated guide comes with a matching travel journal to pen the details of your own experiences in the city!

    10. Maximum City | By Suketu Mehta

    Genre | Non Fiction
    Where To ?  Bombay (Mumbai)

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    ‘There are many Bombays; through the writing of a book, I wanted to find mine”, said Suketu Mehta, of Maximum City, of a Bombay Lost and Found. In finding his Bombay, the author doesn’t cringe at diving into the world of Bombay bars, the sectarian politics or even the glamorously dirty mafia. And, in so doing he had created a book that is widely and rightly so considered a phenomenon.

    e-Book of Maximum City for Kindle: Here.

    11. Midnight’s Children | By Salman Rushdie

    Genre | Fiction
    Where To ?  Bombay (Mumbai)

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    Symbolism. Magic Realism. Salman Rushdies’ Midnight’s Children is a landmark novel in the world of English literature. This was book that firmly planted Rushdie  – in my list of favourite writers – in my head and made in a corner of my library a permanent home for the author. He wanted his book to be “long and strange”, and it is. Taking you through history of a land, the strange and mythical India, post its independence.

    e-Book of Midnight’s Children for Kindle: Here.

    12. Mistress | By Anita Nair

    Genre | Fiction
    Where To ?  Kerala

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    Set in the idyllic surrounds of North Kerala, along the river Nila, Anita Nair’s Mistress is a rich and beautiful tapestry that explores human emotions through the navarasas of Kathakali, the classical dance form of Kerala.  Each navarasa – the nine basic facial expressions of a Kathakali dancer – tie into the narrative dividing the book into chapters based on the nine emotions.

    “In dance as in life we do not need more than nine ways to express ourselves”,  begins the book. And, in dance, we the readers begin to understand Kerala.

    e-Book of Mistress for Kindle: Here.

    13. Narcopolis | By Jeet Thayil

    Genre | Fiction
    Where To ?  Bombay (Mumbai)

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    Much of India’s most fascinating cosmopolitan city, Mumbai’s – or Bombay as it was once known – prosperity came from the opium trade under the British. And, many have explored this history of Bombay, like Amitav Ghosh in his Ibis Trilogy and Amar Farooqui in his Opium City. But Jeet Thayil in his Narcopolis, trains his lens on an Opium Den in Bombay and portrays his city just as the drug begins to fade from its public conscience.

    e-Book of Narcopolis for Kindle: Here.

    14. Night in Bombay | By Louis Bromfield

    Genre | Fiction
    Where To ?  Bombay (Mumbai)
    Pit Stops | 1930s Taj Mahal Hotel

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    Louis Bromfield brings to life the “exotic East” in his Night in Bombay. With the opulent Taj Mahal Hotel as the novel’s centre of gravity, he populates it with a colourful set of characters – fortune seeking travellers from the West, an Indian Maharaja, complete with his retinue of liveried bearers, stunning jewels, royal train coaches and grand marble palaces. Though cliches, they lend atmosphere to this intense novel, taking you back in time to a Victorian Bombay.

    e-Book of Night in Bombay for Kindle: Here.

    15. Nine Lives | By William Dalrymple

    Genre | Travel / Biographies
    Where To ? India

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    “This is my first Hindu book. It is an overwhelmingly Hindu book”, says William Dalrymple about his latest book, Nine Lives. At a time when words like ‘militant hinduism’ are coined and desperately pushed, Dalrymple comes out with a book on India, yet again demonstrating his love for the country that is his home. In his book he recounts nine lives, mostly in ‘reported speech’, lives that were difficult but achieved a semblance of peace, along the way, through faith.

    e-Book of Nine Lives for Kindle: Here.

    16. Shantaram | By Gregory David Roberts

    Genre | Fiction
    Where To ?  Bombay (Mumbai)
    Pit Stops | Leopold Cafe

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    Since Shantaram released in 2003, there have been many who have criticised the author for his exaggerations, inconsistencies and rambling narrative. But this fictionalised memoir of an ex convict which he wanted to ‘read like fiction but feel like fact’ is quite a story. Besides, no other book comes to mind when you say Bombay in the way Shantaram does. And, no other book has been able to immortalise local Bombay haunts (read Leopold’s) like Shantaram has.

    In 2015, Gregory David Roberts followed it up with a sequel, The Mountain Shadow and also retired from public life. I am currently reading, just after rereading Shantaram. Lets see it makes it to this list..or the next.

    e-Book of Shantaram for Kindle: Here.

    17. The Alchemy of Desire | By Tarun Tejpal

    Genre | Fiction
    Where To ? Uttarakhand
    Pit Stops| A House in The Himalayas

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    If one can look past the ‘desire’ (though sensuous it does get tiring after a point ?), Tarun Tejpal’s The Alchemy of Desire is a moody tale that brings the mountains alive. The first time I read this book, years ago, it set in me a longing, for a house in the mountains. The turn of phrase, the lyrical prose, the vivid passionate description of Nature and her fury set the stage – which is somewhere along the winding ghat roads towards Nainital – for this vivid drama.

    18. The Folded Earth by Anuradha Roy

    Genre | Fiction
    Where To ?  Uttarakhand
    Pit Stops | The Himalayas

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    Tragedy, grief, loss and memories of a life lived and abandoned are the markers around which Anuradha Roy’s The Folded Earth unfolds. A deeply emotional tale told slowly and evocatively nudges into the reader’s conscience the everyday life of  a small hill town, in a way that it stays there. The disillusions of romance and life in general feel all the more real in a setting – the foothills of the mighty Himalayas – that feels so real and yet so memorable.

    e-Book of The Folded Earth for Kindle: Here.

    19. The God of Small Things | By Arundhati Roy

    Genre | Fiction
    Where To ?  Kerala

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    Though Arundhati Roy is most definitely not one of my favourite authors any more, it is difficult not to admit that her first novel was nothing short of a masterpiece. A compelling story told beautifully, The God of Small Things is surely one of those rare books that is worthy of every praise that has been heaped on it since it was published over twenty years ago. And, it makes for a great starting point if you are heading to Kerala and want to read a story set there.

    e-Book of God of Small Things for Kindle: Here.

    20. The Hungry Tide | By Amitav Ghosh

    Genre | Fiction
    Where To ? Sundarbans

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    Nuanced. Unforgettable. This was the book I took to get signed when I got to play groupie at one of the Book launches of the Author, seven years ago. That should be evidence enough of the impact that Amitav Ghosh has on the reader, almost always, but particularly so with his The Hungry Tide. Set in the Sundarbans, love and land are the pivots through which the author charts his journey, taking us with him on the Hungry Tide where the Ganga meets the Bay of Bengal.

     e-Book of The Hungry Tide for Kindle: Here.

    21. The Last Song of Dusk | By Siddharth Dhanvant Shanghvi

    Genre | Fiction
    Where To ?  Bombay (Mumbai)

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    Every sentence in Siddharth Dhanvant Sanghvi’s The Last Song of Dusk is a literary roller coaster ride! It is a haunting tale told via the medium of flowery prose that marries the worlds of magic and reality. And the flamboyant characters sear through the narrative of this story that is set in 1920s Bombay. But, read this book for the words, the atmospheric words which weave their incredulous magic.

    e-Book of Last Song of Dusk for Kindle: Here.

    22. The Lives of Others | By Neel Mukherjee

    Genre | Fiction
    Where To ? Bengal

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    Neel Mukherjee’s The Lives of Others is measured, yet impactful, from its shocking beginning to its tragic ending. Though set amongst many narratives and against the backdrop of familial discords and drama that spans over three generations, the crux of the novel remains the Naxalbari Movement of 1960s Bengal –  a farmers’ uprising against oppressive landlords. And, once you have read this book, it stays with you.

    e-Book of The Lives of Others for Kindle: Here.

    23. The Lost Flamingoes of Bombay | By Siddharth Dhanvant Shanghvi

    Genre | Fiction
    Where To ?  Bombay (Mumbai)

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    Siddharth Dhanvant Shanghvi, quickly followed up his haunting debut novel, The Last Song of Dusk with The Lost Flamingoes of Bombay. This time, borrowing from the incidents and trial of  a murder that still haunts the national conscience. But, the book received mixed reviews and he soon announced that this would be his last work of fiction. Be that as it may, he does bring to life, evocatively, the glamorous, powerful and corrupt side of Bombay, as he does the beauty of friendships.

    e-Book of The Lost Flamingoes of Bombay for Kindle: Here.

    24. The Moor’s Last Sigh | By Salman Rushdie

    Genre | Fiction
    Where To ? Bombay
    Pit Stops | Kerala, Goa

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    The narrator, Moor, comes from a family which began when a Goan Catholic of Portuguese descent married a Cochin Jew of Spanish descent. Setting, at once, the tone for this novel – the plurality of India.  The Moor’s Last Sigh begins where Midnight’s Children ends. If the latter was about the birth of a Modern India, the former is about an India that is growing up! Yet another family saga from Salman Rushdie that offers us insights into the rich and varied culture of India.

    e-Book of The Moor’s Last Sigh for Kindle: Here.

    25. The Shadow Lines | By Amitav Ghosh

    Genre | Fiction
    Where To ? Calcutta
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    Stops | Dhaka

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    With forceful and quiet intensity, Amitav Ghosh, in his The Shadow Linesbrings to life – slowly but sharply, the Bangladesh partition. It is a tale that relies on memories and history, and their far reaching and lasting impact on lives. In turn leaving a lasting impact on the reader and how he/she will begin to see these very same events from history, the events which only take real shape in the narrator’s mind after twenty long years.

    e-Book of The Shadow Lines for Kindle: Here.

    26. The Toss of a Lemon | By Padma Viswanathan

    Genre | Fiction
    Where To ? South India

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    An epic family saga of one Tamil Brahmin woman’s defiance and resilience, set against the backdrop of social mores, political turbulence and change, Padma Viswanathan’s  The Toss of a Lemon is both absorbing and insightful. Inspired by her grandmother’s life, the author traces a story that begins in 1896 and ends only after three generations,  half a century and six hundred pages later.

    27. The Tusk That Did The Damage | By Tania James

    Genre | Fiction
    Where To ?  Kerala

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    Sooryamangalam Sreeganeshan, is an elephant and is the star and anti hero of The Tusk That Did The Damage. He is also one of the narrators of this surprising and moving tale. Set in Kerala, this book goes beyond ‘elephants at temple festivals’ to delve deeper into conservation issues in this Indian state where these magnificent beings are revered, loved and controlled in equal measure.

    e-Book of The Tusk That Did The Damage for Kindle: Here.

    28. When The River Sleeps | By Eastern Kire

    Genre | Fiction
    Where To ?  Nagaland

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    Poigant. In When The River Sleeps, Eastern Kire draws from Naga folklore to tell a powerfully introspective tale of a lone hunter on a quest. Through the protagnist who simply states, “The forest is my wife”, we journey through the verdant and myth ridden forests of Nagaland and along the ride gain a little glimpse into the lives of the Naga people. That ancient warrior tribe of North Eastern India.

    e-Book of When The River Sleeps for Kindle: Here.

    Travel with me. Come find me on Instagram, Facebook or Twitter.