Month: December 2018

  • A Local’s Guide to Things to do in Hyderabad

    A Local’s Guide to Things to do in Hyderabad

    Find yourself in the city of pearls for 2 days? Here is a quick guide to things to do in Hyderabad. Including where to eat and what to see for a truly local experience.

    Things to do in Hyderabad

    1. Go on a Heritage Walk in the Old City of Hyderabad

    Conducted by the Telangana Tourism Department, this guided walk through the lanes of the old city, happens every Sunday from 7:30 am to 9 am. There are four walks to choose from, to explore the architectural and historical splendour of the city, but the walk from Charminar to Chowmahalla Palace remains the most popular.

    2. Naubat Pahad | Science Museum & Birla Planetarium

    Hyderabad Travel_Birla Mandir_Naubat Pahad.jpg
    A View of Birla Mandir from Naubat Pahad

    The Sky Show at Birla Planetarium is popular across quite a few of the bigger cities in India, but here in Hyderabad, where it is located on one of the more popular hillocks of the City, the Naubat Pahad, it gives you two additional reasons to visit. One for the sweeping views of the Hussain Sagar and the pristine white Birla Mandir. And the other,  for its Science Museum. The interactive science section here at the Museum has been engaging children and adults alike in exploring the basic laws of Physics in a fun way for over 27 years now.

    3. Sunset Boating on Hussain Sagar

    And who hasn’t seen pictures of the famous  Buddha Statue of Hyderabad, believed to be the tallest monolith of the Gautama Buddha. Take an evening boat ride in the Hussain Sagar to see the Buddha against the backdrop of a setting sun.

    This white granite statue of the Buddha was consecrated by the Dalai Lama himself!

    4. Go on a Road Trip

    Been there done that? Looking for some offbeat experiences? Then head out on the road to discover the unexplored side of Telangana. Plan your trip to include anything from forgotten forts to secluded waterfalls.

    Here are some useful guides to help you design your road trip from Hyderabad.

    What to See in Hyderabad

    1. Old City | Charminar, Laad Bazaar & MJ Market

    See the iconic Charminar by the evening lights of the fruit sellers or on an early Sunday morning when it is at its atmospheric best with the Jummeraat Bazaar that pop ups enroute Charminar every sunday.  While there, also check out Laad Bazaar, an entire lane dedicated to selling colourful bangles. Nothing else gives you a feel of old Hyderabad like this traditional bazaar.

    One can also go up a minaret of Charminar to take in the entire old city – the heart of Hyderabad from its balconies.

    Read Other Stories from The Old City of Hyderabad

    Standing Still: Moazzam Jahi Market
    Heart of Hyderabad: Old City

    2. Qutb Shahi Tombs

    hyderabad travel_places to visit in Hyderabad_Qutb Shahi Tombs.jpg
    One of the Domes of the Qutb Shahi  Tombs

    Though they don’t rank high on the typical tourist checklist, the Qutb Shahi Tombs are yet another must visit. Some of the areas of this expansive  complex are undergoing restoration, in the hopes of bringing this mausoleum onto the coveted list of UNESCO Heritage Sites.

    3. Golconda Fort

    Golconda Fort, believed to be the strongest of the Deccan Forts holds number one spot on every traveller’s Hyderabad itinerary and rightly so. For the earthy brown monument with its manicured lawns isn’t just beautiful. The architectural designs to draw water and even cool the citadel on a hot day are intriguing. Also, the trek up to the summit of the fort is invigorating, specifically around sunset.

    Read: Through The Ages: Golconda

    4. Chowmahalla Palace

    And when one has had enough of ruins and tombs, then a visit to the Chowmahalla Palace is sure to refresh you with a peek into the the erstwhile life of the Nizams of  Hyderabad.

    5. Birla Mandir

    Built in a mix of Dravidian and Rajasthani architectural styles, the Birla Mandir is a beautiful marble structure sitting – in all its pristine white splendour – atop a hillock on the banks of the Hussain Sagar. The temple is dedicated to Venkateswara Swamy is a quiet and serene  place.

    Where to Eat – like a local – in Hyderabad

    If you want to eat like a local in Hyderabad, then it isn’t just about the biryani or the haleem, you start your day with an Irani Chai and a side of Osmania Biscuits at Nimrah Cafe. Located bang opposite the Charminar, this landmark is the starting point for many a walk in the old city of Hyderabad, be that a photo walk or a food walk.

    Just as iconic are Paradise and Pista House – ‘world famous in Hyderabad’ as one would put it – the former famous for biryani and the latter for haleem.

    The city also boasts of eateries that grew from just a bandi (handcart) to full fledged multi storeyed cafes and restaurants. Amongst these are the Gokul Chaat Bhandar and Ram ki Bandi. Both worth a visit, for their chaats and dosas.

    And if you are a vegetarian in Hyderabad, against popular belief, you needn’t despair. For you have an entire street that comes alive every evening and serves up everything from a dabeli or a vada pav to a fruit flavoured soda or a malai kulfi. That is Sindhi Colony for you. It is such a hit among the youngsters for street food that within hours of opening, most of these joints sell out. So be there in Sindhi Colony by five any evening, if you want to try out everything.

  • 8 Fabulous Places to Visit near Chennai

    8 Fabulous Places to Visit near Chennai

    There is ever so often that you crave a quick weekend getaway. For a little breather between work and the drudgery of daily life and you do not have the time to plan an elaborate holiday. On those days, long Weekends are like answered prayers. And, just for times like that, here is a list of 8 places to visit near Chennai that are only a few hours away from the city but are as good a tourist destination as any in the country.

    1. Mahabalipuram / Mamallapuram

    Distance from Chennai  | 57 Kilometres
    Best Time to Visit |
    Monsoon & Winter. October – April.

    Renowned for its ancient monuments dating back to the Pallavas of the seventh and the eighth centuries, Mahabalipuram is home to numerous Hindu temples sculpted as monolithic chariots, cave sanctuaries and rock reliefs even. Together they form a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The most famous of which are the five Rathas dedicated to the five Pandavas of Mahabharata and the elephantine open air rock relief which is The Descent of the Ganges – also known as Arjuna’s Penance.

    Today this ancient seaside town is also buzzing with surfers that are thronging here in their quest for big waves making this the number one place to visit near Chennai.

    READ : 7 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 2017

    Getting There | Mahabalipuram is only an hour and half away from Chennai by road. One can also take the train or bus to get here.

    2. Pondicherry

    Distance from Chennai | 156 Kilometres
    Best Time to Visit |  
    Winter. December – April.

    Go further down the East Coast Road from Mahabalipuram and you reach Auroville – Pondicherry, which is also next on our list of popular tourist places to visit near Chennai.

    They say if you can’t afford a ticket to Europe, travel to Pondicherry instead. Stroll through the white part of town where cafes cool and inviting are at every turn. Or wander through the streets on the Tamil side to absorb the distinctive Franco-Tamil culture of the place.

    Pay a visit to Auroville to experience life at this utopian community, meditate in the Matrimandir and shop for eco friendly products. Take a short drive to Arikamedu, an ancient Roman archaeological site or to the Fossil Forest in Tiruvakkarai. Or simply sit on the edge of the rocky beach and let a sense of tranquillity wash over you.

    Getting There | The best way to get to Pondicherry from Chennai is by the East Coast Road. There are also trains and buses that connect both cities.

    Where to Stay in Pondicherry | Hotel Review: Maison Perumal

    Read  Stories from Pondicherry

    Streets of Pondicherry – Part I: Art
    Streets of Pondicherry – Part II: Architecture

    3. Tharangambadi ( Tranquebar )

    Distance from Chennai  | 270 Kilometres
    Best Time to Visit |
    Winter. December – April.

    Tharangambadi, ‘the place of the singing waves’, was the first Danish trading post in India and in a Danish twist to its original name, it came to be called Tranquebar. Just like Pondicherry, here too, you will find an eclectic mix of two cultures coming together. Of a former Danish colony and a fishing village of rural Tamil Nadu. Besides the lyrical singing waves and the swaying palms of the southern coast line, there are also the Dansborg Fort and the New Jerusalem Church to explore.

    Getting There | The best way to get to Tharangambadi from Chennai is by road. The drive takes over six and a half hours, so one can also take a bus to get to Tharangambadi from Chennai.

    4. Trichy

    Distance from Chennai  | 330 Kilometres
    Best Time to Visit |
    All year round.

    Weekend Getaways from Chennai_Trichy_Srirangam Temple.jpg
    The stunning gopurams of Srirangam Temple

    One of the oldest inhabited cities of Tamil Nadu and my personal favourite on this list of places to visit near Chennai, Trichy is home to temples both unique and popular. From the more famous Ranganatha Swamy Temple of Srirangam to the little known Rockfort Temple.

    Second in size only to the Angkor Wat, Srirangam occupies an entire islet in Trichy and is the largest functioning Hindu temple in the world

    The Rockfort Temple is a series of cave temples inside an ancient rock that dates back to over a billion years ago. The  Jambukeshwara Temple is yet another one  of interest in Trichy for all architecture lovers. Also here is the ancient Kallanai Dam, more commonly known as the Grand Anaicut which is a picturesque digression from all the temples.

    One can also extend the trip by driving to Thanjavur or Kumbakonam, both towns boast of ancient temples of stunning architecture.

    Getting There | There are regular flights from Chennai to Trichy everyday. By road the drive to Trichy takes around six hours. There are also connecting trains between the two cities.

    Read  Stories from Trichy

    From a billion years ago.

    5. Thanjavur

    Distance from Chennai  | 320 Kilometres
    Best Time to Visit |
    Dry, cool months. January – March.

    Weekend Getaways from Chennai_Thanjavur_Darasuram.jpg
    Airavateeswara Temple in Darasuram, one of the three great living chola temples in Thanjavur

    In and around Thanjavur are ‘The Great Living Chola Temples’, three grand temple complexes dating back to the 11th and 12th centuries. These UNESCO classified world heritage sites make Thanjavur one of the best destinations in the country for architecture & history enthusiasts.

    But this historical town earns its position on this list of places to visit near Chennai not just for this but also because it is the go-to shopping destination for art lovers and connoisseurs.  It is from Thanjavur that the strikingly beautiful gold laid Tanjore Paintings come from.

    The Thanjavur Maratha Palace along with its museum dedicated to the Chola heritage of the region is another tourist attraction here that is worth a visit.

    Getting There | Nearest Airport is Trichy. One would have to fly to Trichy and drive down to Thanjavur, which takes about one and  a half hours. But, there are frequent trains and buses from Chennai to Thanjavur.

    Read  Stories from Thanjavur

    Hello, Kumbakonam Filter Kaapi.
    Great Living Chola Temples : Vol I
    Great Living Chola Temples : Vol II

    6. Madurai

    Distance from Chennai  | 460 Kilometres
    Best Time to Visit |
    All year round.

    Madurai is Tamil Nadu’s pride and the illustrious Meenakshi Amman temple here is truly a marvel. One cannot help but lose oneself in the labyrinth of courtyards in this sprawling temple complex of immense proportions.

    Its fourteen Dravidian style gopurams etched in beautiful detail and intense colour dominate the city’s skyline. So striking is this temple that it has even inspired full blown life size movie sets in the South.

    Getting There | Madurai is connected to Chennai via regular flights, trains and buses. By road, it is an eight hour journey from Chennai to Madurai.

    7. Kodaikanal

    Distance from Chennai  | 525 Kilometres
    Best Time to Visit |
    Summer. March – June.

    Driving through the western ghats to get to Kodaikanal –  this beautiful hill station that often serves as a less crowded alternative to the more famous Ooty –   is in itself a pleasurable experience. It sure is the ideal destination for a leisurely  holiday, for here you can spend your days amongst the mist rolled hills indulging in home made chocolates and boating in the Kodai Lake.

    Getting There | One can get to Kodaikanal from either Coimbatore or Madurai. The drive to Kodaikanal takes anywhere between three to four hours from either of the airports. There are direct trains and buses too that ply regularly between Chennai and Kodaikanal.

    8. Rameshwaram

    Distance from Chennai  | 540 Kilometres
    Best Time to Visit |
    All year round.

    One of the major Hindu pilgrimage sites in the country, Rameswaram is where Rama worshipped Shiva or Eswara as he is also known,  giving this unique holy city its name.

    It is also believed that it was from here, in Rameshwaram, that Rama built the bridge to Lanka to bring back Sita after defeating Ravana.

    But it is the Ramanathaswamy Temple here that brings the most travellers to this Ramayana site. This temple of the many sculpted corridors is a shining example of beautiful Indian architecture. The outer corridor alone has over a thousand carved pillars that taper off into what looks like an exquisitely painted tunnel.

    Add to it the beauty of Pamban Island itself, the island on which this temple town is located and Rameshwaram becomes the one destination on the list of places to visit near Chennai that just cannot be missed!

    Getting There | Nearest Airport is Madurai and the drive from Madurai to Rameshwaram takes around three and a half hours. By train or bus, it is an overnight journey.

    Travel with me. Come find me on Instagram, Facebook or Twitter.
  • A Quick Guide to Goa Travel : Eat, See, Do.

    A Quick Guide to Goa Travel : Eat, See, Do.

    It isn’t just the beaches – which sure are numerous and beautiful – that make the city state of Goa such a tourist magnet for Indians and foreigners alike. It is also its vibrant culture. A culture that is a mix of the local Goan eclectic Indo – Portuguese history juxtaposed with the bohemian spirit inherited from a long line of  trippy tourists who have made Goa their home.

    With its picturesque forts and historic churches, hip flea markets that run shoulder to shoulder with chic boutiques, trendy cafes along treelined avenues, Goa has something of interest to every kind of traveller.

    So, here is a quick guide to travelling through Goa. From where to eat to what to see and do on your first trip to Goa.

    Where to Eat in Goa

    You cannot be in Goa and not have seafood. And it is said that it couldn’t get better than the Goan Fish Thali at Fat Fish, where, for once, you will see just as many locals as tourists relishing in the distinctive Portuguese flavour of Goan cuisine.

    Yet another favourite of the locals and celebrities alike is the Exotic Seafood Platter at Martins Corner.

    And as for vegetarians like me, head to Casa da Moeda late afternoon  for high tea and be regaled by the hosts who dish up some some local Goan anecdotes with a side of  tea and cake. Originally Goa’s Mint, currency was minted here a hundred and eighty four years ago. Today it is the  Dias family’s home and one can visit with a prior appointment.

    Goa Travel_Villa Blanche Bistro.jpg
    Villa Blanche Bistro in Assagao

    Also, if you happen to be in Goa on a Sunday, then the brunch at Villa Blanche Bistro cannot be missed. For here you are not just spoilt for choice with the variety of bagels, pretzels and cheeses on offer. Vegetarians can dig in to a sumptuous meal too, thanks to their exclusive vegan and gluten free menus.

    What to See in Goa

    The beaches ofcourse.

    While North Goa is known for it wild parties and crowded beaches, South Goa is for those looking for the quieter beaches to spend a lazy afternoon. So beach hopping  from North Goa to South Goa should surely be top of your itinerary for Goa.

    Popular North Goa Beaches 

    From Anjuna to Baga, every beach you have heard of is in North Goa.

    Goa Travel_Baga Beach_North Goa Beaches.jpg
    Baga Beach, North Goa

    1. Anjuna 

    If you love chasing sunsets, then the Anjuna Beach with its swaying palms and rocky cliffs is the place for you. It is also here that the famous Flea Market is set up, every Wednesday.

    2. Baga

    But if you want to indulge in some people watching, then the Baga beach is where everyone is at.

    3. Calangute

    Calangute with its uber cool eateries and shacks is the queen of Goa beaches and also its most crowded!

    4. Miramar

    The Miramar beach is  to Goa, what Chowpatty is to Mumbai! Miramar is also known for its stunning views of the Fort Aguada.

    5. Vagator

    And, how can you miss the beach made famous by that iconic scene in Dil Chahta Hai ?! It is the Vagator Beach and Chapora Fort then.

    Popular South Goa Beaches

    Goa Travel_Agonda Beach_South Goa Beaches.jpg
    Agonda Beach, South Goa

    1. Agonda

    Agonda used to be so quiet that the Olive Ridley turtles used to nest here. But with South Goa rapidly making it onto the tourist radar, Agonda has become  its most popular beach. Today, it is people and beach shacks that crowd out this beach.

    2. Palolem

    Though the Palolem Beach is yet another popular beach in South Goa, quickly being overrun by eateries, boutiques and restaurants; I still love its vibe. There definitely is something about Palolem, which is probably why it is the setting for silent night parties every Saturday.

    Remember that song in Ae Dil Hai Muskhil – where you dance to your own music in a club?

    Churches of  Old Goa

    The second most popular thing to do in Goa,  after beach hopping is to see the churches and convents of Old Goa. Or Velha Goa – as it is known locally – the old Portuguese capital.

    Goa Travel_Velha Goa_Neeharika Satyavada.jpg
    Sunset Views of Velha Goa and the River Mandovi

    The whole of Old Goa is a UNESCO inscribed world heritage site and rightfully so. For these churches and cathedrals were built right after the Portuguese came to Goa in 1510, with a view to inspire awe amongst the native Indians. So that they would more readily accept Christianity.

    See them not just for their striking architecture that varies from Portuguese – Gothic to Tuscan and Corinthian, but also to visit the mausoleum of Goa’s patron saint, Francis Xavier, housed in the Basilica of Bom Jesus.

    Things To Do in Goa (Beyond the Beaches)

    Goa Travel_Dudhsagar Waterfalls.jpg
    Dudhsagar Waterfalls

    1. Latin Quarter

    Take the Fontainhas Walking Tour to explore the oldest surviving Latin Quarter in Old Goa and the only living one in all of Asia. Whimsical and colourful, this walk takes you through narrow alleyways of charming old traditional homes painted in hues of yellow, blue, maroon and green. And, it sure is going to transport you to another time right there in the middle of the bustling city of Panjim.

    2. Dudhsagar Waterfalls

    Trek to the popular Dudhsagar Waterfalls and explore the luxuriant green forests of Goa, when you tire of its countless beaches.

    3. Sunaparanta Centre for Art + Cafe Bodega

    Visit the Sunaparanta Goa Centre of the Art. Beloved of the art lovers in Goa, this not-for-profit arts initiative is more than just a gallery and cafe. Sitting in an old Hindu Portuguese house, Sunaparanta serves as a hub for Goa’s cultural events. There is also  a library here that is a great resource for anyone looking to delve deeper into understanding art.

    4. Divar Island

    Cycle on the Divar Island where beautiful little Portuguese villas dot every winding lane. Here on the island is also the Church of Our Lady of Compassion that boasts stunning panoramic views of the Goan countryside.

    5. Nerul River

    Take a sunset boat ride on the Nerul river.

    6. Literati Bookshop & Cafe

    Check out the Literati Bookshop and Cafe in Calangute to browse through some antiquarian books or just for some coffee and conversation in the garden cafe of this store that has been featured in lists of the Greatest Bookstores of the World.

    Travel with me. Come find me on Instagram, Facebook or Twitter.
  • Machilipatnam: The First Port of Call

    Machilipatnam: The First Port of Call

    Masulipatnam or Machilipatnam as it is now known was once the first port of call on the Coromandel coast for European traders vying for a hold on India and it’s trade. This  often overlooked-by-travellers town on the East Coast of South India makes for the perfect day trip destination from Vijayawada or even as an interesting detour for those heading to Vijayawada.

    Where is Machilipatnam?

    Machilipatnam is a  coastal town in the Krishna District of Andhra Pradesh.

    Machilipatnam History

    An ancient port town of the sixteenth century, Machilipatnam’s long rich history isn’t just about the trade. For it even finds mention in many Buddhist texts, for it is believed that the Buddha made his way to Amaravati – only a couple of hours away, via here.

    Though this once important port has faded away into insignificance it still boasts of flourishing trade. Only today, it is in the hugely popular Kalamkari fabric and gold plated costume jewellery (or imitation jewellery as it is more commonly known) used in Indian movies and television soaps.

    Machilipatnam  Places to Visit + Things To Do

    1. Machilipatnam Beach / Manginapudi Beach

    The Machilipatnam Beach tops of the list of points of interest in Machilipatnam. For this is a beach that is only a short road trip away from Hyderabad, which being in the land locked Telangana, doesn’t otherwise have quick access to the sea. It is also a black sand beach, yet another feature that sets the Machilipatnam – Manginapudi Beach apart. For there no other in the state.

    2.  Datta Rameshwaram

    While Manginapudi in Machilipatnam has long been popular for its beach. It is only in the last few decades that Manginapudi has grown in prominence, owing to be being adopted by Datta Peetham led by Sri Ganapathi Sachidananda Swamy. He christened Manginapudi as Datta Rameshwaram, declaring it be a holy site equivalent to the major pilgrimage centre of Rameshwaram, after building a temple dedicated to Dattatreya Swamy.

    Since, then Manginapudi has also attracting tourists who wish to take a dip in the sea, visit the the temple on the coast and the twelve wells that were also built by the Peetham to defend the town from destructive tidal waves.

    3. Machilipatnam Port & Harbour

    A trip to this port from where the East India Company conducted its trade should  prove to be interesting. Instead of a huge fleet of ships that once docked here, you will now find colourful fishing boats crowding the waters. A more welcome sight surely?

    Work is set to begin on developing an all weather deep water port here, at this long forgotten harbour.

    4. Dutch Fort and Armoury

    Though neglected as with everything else here in Machilipatnam, the sprawling Bandar Fort which was built by the Dutch in the 17th century, with its white washed walls and tiled roofs is reminiscent of Reis Magus in Goa. It is surprisingly good looking!

    The fort is a living testimony to the maritime trade history of the region. For it has been home to a hospital, a customs office, storehouses and godowns, an armoury and a textile factory even at different times in the last few centuries.

    5. Chilakalapudi Panduranga Swamy Temple

    The Chilakalapudi Panduranga Swamy Temple built by Sree Narasimham in 1927 is a beautiful symphony of colours and symmetries. So strikingly is the main temple – dedicated to Panduranga Swamy and his wife Goddess Rukmini – painted in alternating hues of bright and vivid colours, that is bound to grab your attention from the moment you set foot on the sprawling temple grounds.

    Machilipatnam_Chilakalapudi Panduranga Swamy Temple.jpg
    Panduranga Swamy Temple in Chilakalapudi, Machilipatnam

    What is even more fascinating about this temple though, is that, there is no Hundi (a donation box that is a common feature of temples) here and anyone who comes to this place of worship need not pay anything for puja performed here. The temple is still maintained privately by the original builder’s grand son, Sree Gangadharam. He is also the head priest of the main temple.

    Tiny temples in hidden alcoves dot the entire length of the complex and there is also the remarkable Sahasra Linga Mahamandapam with its many Shiva Lingams.

    Chilakalapudi is also famous for being a hub for rolled gold jewellery.

    6. Pedana Kalmakari

    Pedana is where everybody’s favourite fabric, Kalamkari comes from.

    Machilipatnam_Pedana Kalamkari.jpg
    Screen-printing New Age Kalamkari in Pedana, Machilipatnam

    Machilipatnam and Sri Kalahasti are the two main centres in the country for production of this artisanal fabric.

    READ: Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Sri Kalahasti

    But, Machilipatnam, has today moved onto screen printing, to quickly produce Kalamkari designs on both cotton and silk fabric to meet the growing demand – for fabric that has the Kalamkari design but not the price tag that comes with it. Very efficiently putting to use its long history of textile trading – that dates as far back as trading with the Greeks in Muslin – in commercialising this traditional form of art.

    Must Try in Machilipatnam

    Bandar Laddu

    Don’t forget to bring back a box of the sumptuous Bandar Laddu, which gets it name from the place it comes from – Bandar, which is but Persian for Port, and one of the names given to the port town of Machilipatnam.


    Explorers Guide | Getting There

    One can get to Machilipatnam either via Hyderabad or Vijayawada. Both of which are major cities in Telangana and Andhra Pradesh well connected by air, rail and road.

    Hyderabad to Machilipatnam

    Distance | 340 Kilometres
    Drive Time | 6 Hours

    Vijayawada to Machilipatnam

    Distance | 70 Kilometres
    Drive Time | 2 Hours