Category: Temples & Sacred Sites

  • 6  Places to Visit near Kolkata

    6 Places to Visit near Kolkata

    Here are 6 places to visit near Kolkata that serve as the best weekend getaways.

    1. Digha

    Distance from Kolkata | 165 Kilometers
    Best Time to Visit | October – February

    One of the most popular weekend getaways from Kolkata, this coastal resort town in West Bengal is known for its mellow sunsets and shallow sand beaches. Digha also has lush green parks and lakes that are just perfect for an idyllic amble. Add to this the delightfully painted Shiva temple at Chandaneswar, where the annual fair draws people from all over West Bengal during Chaitra, the last month of their calendar, you have the ideal itinerary for a quick refreshing weekend.

    2. Mukutmanipur

    Distance from Kolkata | 220 Kilometers
    Best Time to Visit | October – March

    The water reservoir at Mukutmanipur together with India’s second biggest earthen dam  built across the confluence of two rivers – Kangsabati and Kumari make for a tranquil weekend away from the chaos of city life. The blue hour of twilight at the dam is stunning. Delight in bird song as you catch the sunset from a boat, surrounded by the clear azure waters and luxurious green forests. Round off the experience with a picnic as you watch the night fall and the lights come on at the dam. The nearby tribal hamlets of Bankura, the Bonpukuria Deer Park, Bangopalpur Reserve Forest, all provide for pleasant outings during the day.

    3. Bodhgaya

    Distance from Kolkata | 470 Kilometers
    Best Time to Visit | September – June

    Most revered of all Buddhist sites, Bodhgaya is where Prince Sidhartha attained enlightenment and became the Buddha, two thousand and six hundred years ago. Two hundred years later, Emperor Ashoka built a temple to mark the site. The temple and the Bodhi tree have gone through a tempestuous history but they are the descendants of the original. Like any other pilgrim town in India, Bodhgaya too wears an air of festivity mingled with the intensity of faith. Sit in the temple, under the Bodhi Tree and contemplate life, walk around in town to see the Buddhist temples from as many as eight countries.

    4. Puri

    Sun Temple, Konark

    Distance from Kolkata | 495 Kilometers
    Best Time to Visit | December – February

    Orissa is a state that is underrated when it comes to tourism. The winters here are beautiful, night falls by five and the breeze couldn’t get any pleasanter. Puri with its painted houses carries its legacy of the Jagannatha and patachitra everywhere. And with its golden fields and silvery waves, the seaside temple town of Puri is right where the action is. Visit the fabled Puri Jagannath Temple in town and go on short drives to go dolphin spotting on the boundless Chilika lake or to be awed by the sheer magnificence of the Sun Temple in Konark.

    5. Darjeeling 

    Distance from Kolkata | 615 Kilometers
    Best Time to Visit | April – June

    Darjeeling has long been one of the most loved hill stations in India thanks to its pretty tea estates, its views of the Kanchenjunga and the iconic Darjeeling Himalayan Railway.  Take the hundred and thirty seven year old toy train through the foothills of the Himalayas to India’s highest railway station at Ghum, while you spot wild orchids as the narrow gauge heritage train takes you winding through the dense forests of oak. Sip on some black tea and stroll along the charming little lanes of this quaint old town and be enchanted by the mock Tudor residences, gothic churches and the buddhist pagodas.

    6. Kalimpong

    Distance from Kolkata | 625 Kilometers
    Best Time to Visit | March – May

    Famed for its impressive colonial era buildings, Kalimpong sits across from Darjeeling on the other side of the River Teesta. But surprisingly, it isn’t the tea plantations that draw  people to this east Indian hill town but its flowers and cacti. The absolutely brilliant array of orchids and gladioli do not just adorn the local flowers markets here but are a major source of export revenue. So, head out to the nurseries check out their impressive cacti cultivation, walk along the sloping pathways in the backdrop of the Kanchenjunga, shop for Tibetan jewellery, eat noodles and cheese.

  • Pancharamam Temples : One Ancient Shiva Lingam, Five Temples. 

    Pancharamam Temples : One Ancient Shiva Lingam, Five Temples. 

    The Pancharamam Kshetras spread across Andhra Pradesh are essentially five  temples built for just one Shiva Lingam. A popular pilgrimage circuit for the Hindus of Andhra Pradesh, this tour across temple towns (and, otherwise) takes you through Palakollu, Bhimavaram, Samarlakota, Draksharamam to the State Captial, Amaravathi.

    The Legend of Pancharam Kshetralu

    Once upon a time there was a Rakshasa King, Tarakasura and he owned a magnificent and powerful Shiva Lingam. Or so the story goes.

    A war ensued between the devas and asuras, the classic showdown between Gods and demons.

    Kumaraswamy, the God of War himself, was fighting the demon Tarakasura but couldn’t kill him, no matter how. For at every deadly blow, the rakshasa would reform, limb to limb, from his cut off body parts. This power to rejoin came from the aforementioned mighty Shiva Lingam that the demon wore.

    The only way to destroy him was to break this powerful lingam first.

    So, it was to be. And, by the end of the battle, there came to be five pieces of this mythical  Siva Lingam. Which fell in five different places in Andhra Pradesh. Temples were then built in those locations around the fragments and it is these five ancient temples that now constitute the Pancharama Kshetralu.

    Architecture of Pancharamam Temples

    All of the Pancharamam temples are two storeyed stone temples, for fragments though the Shiva Lingams are, they are all massive Shiva Lingams in themselves.

    To continue the story, the five fragments were installed and worshipped at five temples by the five gods, Indra, Surya, Chandra, Vishnu and Kumaraswamy.

    Temple 1 |Kumararamam / Bhimaramam

    Where | Samarlakota
    Shiva Lingam Installed By | Kumaraswamy, Son of Shiva

    The first one, by Kumaraswamy himself is at Samarlakota near Kakinada and is known as Kumararamam or Bhimaramam variously. The temple is beautiful, peaceful and yet not too crowded like the other four. 

    Getting There | From Kakinada, Kumararamam in Samarlakota is 15 kilometers away.

    Temple  2 | Draksharamam

    Where | Draksharamam
    Shiva Lingam Installed By | Surya, Sun God

    The next one nearest to here is Draksharamam. Probably the biggest and definitely the most celebrated of the five, Draksharamam isn’t just a Pancharamam Kshetra but also a Shakti Peetham.

    This expansive tenth century temple boasts of a rich history and numerous mythological legends are associated with it, which is one of the reasons for its popularity.

    Believed to be the site of the mythical Dakshayagnam – where Daksha Prajapati’s daughter and Shiva’s wife, Sati immolated herself in the Yagna Fire – it is one of the eighteen major Asthadasa Shakti Peethams in the country. And she is manifest here as the Goddess Manikyamba alongside Lord Shiva.

    Getting There | One can get to Draksharam too from Kakinada. It  is at a distance of 34 kilometers from the city.

    ALSO READ:  Road Tripping through Konaseema

    Temple 3 | Somaramam

    Where | Bhimavaram
    Shiva Lingam Installed By |  Chandra, Moon God

    The Shiva Lingam in Somaramam is said to change colour according to the phases of the Moon. If it is a pristine white on full moon nights, it is a dark ebony on the days of no moon or amaavasya, probably owing to the fact that legend says, this is the Shiva Lingam that was installed by Chandra or the Moon God himself.

    Getting There | The easiest way to get to Bhimavaram is from Rajahmundry which is 90 kilometers away.

    Temple 4 | Ksheeraramam

    Where | Palakollu
    Shiva Lingam Installed By | Vishnu, The Protector

    In Ksheeraramam, Shiva instated by Vishnu here, is Ksheera Ramalingeswara Swamy and the temple itself flaunts a nine storeyed temple tower.  

    Getting There | This too like the last one is in West Godavari and the most convenient way to get there would be from Rajahmundry via Bhimavaram.

    Temple 5 | Amararamam

    Where | Amaravathi
    Shiva Lingam Installed By | Indra, God of Wealth

    The last of the five temples is Amararamam in Amaravathi, Andhra Pradesh’s burgeoning new capital. Legend has it that this Shiva Lingam laid here by Indra wouldn’t stop growing and a nail was affixed to it, in an attempt to stop its growth. But the Lingam started bleeding and today devotees from all across flock here, to this ancient temple on the banks of the river Krishna,  to catch a glimpse of that red stain on the head of the Lingam.

    Getting There | One can get to Amaravathi from Vijayawada, which is only 18 kilometers away.

     

  • 8 Fabulous Places to Visit near Chennai

    8 Fabulous Places to Visit near Chennai

    There is ever so often that you crave a quick weekend getaway. For a little breather between work and the drudgery of daily life and you do not have the time to plan an elaborate holiday. On those days, long Weekends are like answered prayers. And, just for times like that, here is a list of 8 places to visit near Chennai that are only a few hours away from the city but are as good a tourist destination as any in the country.

    1. Mahabalipuram / Mamallapuram

    Distance from Chennai  | 57 Kilometres
    Best Time to Visit |
    Monsoon & Winter. October – April.

    Renowned for its ancient monuments dating back to the Pallavas of the seventh and the eighth centuries, Mahabalipuram is home to numerous Hindu temples sculpted as monolithic chariots, cave sanctuaries and rock reliefs even. Together they form a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The most famous of which are the five Rathas dedicated to the five Pandavas of Mahabharata and the elephantine open air rock relief which is The Descent of the Ganges – also known as Arjuna’s Penance.

    Today this ancient seaside town is also buzzing with surfers that are thronging here in their quest for big waves making this the number one place to visit near Chennai.

    READ : 7 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 2017

    Getting There | Mahabalipuram is only an hour and half away from Chennai by road. One can also take the train or bus to get here.

    2. Pondicherry

    Distance from Chennai | 156 Kilometres
    Best Time to Visit |  
    Winter. December – April.

    Go further down the East Coast Road from Mahabalipuram and you reach Auroville – Pondicherry, which is also next on our list of popular tourist places to visit near Chennai.

    They say if you can’t afford a ticket to Europe, travel to Pondicherry instead. Stroll through the white part of town where cafes cool and inviting are at every turn. Or wander through the streets on the Tamil side to absorb the distinctive Franco-Tamil culture of the place.

    Pay a visit to Auroville to experience life at this utopian community, meditate in the Matrimandir and shop for eco friendly products. Take a short drive to Arikamedu, an ancient Roman archaeological site or to the Fossil Forest in Tiruvakkarai. Or simply sit on the edge of the rocky beach and let a sense of tranquillity wash over you.

    Getting There | The best way to get to Pondicherry from Chennai is by the East Coast Road. There are also trains and buses that connect both cities.

    Where to Stay in Pondicherry | Hotel Review: Maison Perumal

    Read  Stories from Pondicherry

    Streets of Pondicherry – Part I: Art
    Streets of Pondicherry – Part II: Architecture

    3. Tharangambadi ( Tranquebar )

    Distance from Chennai  | 270 Kilometres
    Best Time to Visit |
    Winter. December – April.

    Tharangambadi, ‘the place of the singing waves’, was the first Danish trading post in India and in a Danish twist to its original name, it came to be called Tranquebar. Just like Pondicherry, here too, you will find an eclectic mix of two cultures coming together. Of a former Danish colony and a fishing village of rural Tamil Nadu. Besides the lyrical singing waves and the swaying palms of the southern coast line, there are also the Dansborg Fort and the New Jerusalem Church to explore.

    Getting There | The best way to get to Tharangambadi from Chennai is by road. The drive takes over six and a half hours, so one can also take a bus to get to Tharangambadi from Chennai.

    4. Trichy

    Distance from Chennai  | 330 Kilometres
    Best Time to Visit |
    All year round.

    Weekend Getaways from Chennai_Trichy_Srirangam Temple.jpg
    The stunning gopurams of Srirangam Temple

    One of the oldest inhabited cities of Tamil Nadu and my personal favourite on this list of places to visit near Chennai, Trichy is home to temples both unique and popular. From the more famous Ranganatha Swamy Temple of Srirangam to the little known Rockfort Temple.

    Second in size only to the Angkor Wat, Srirangam occupies an entire islet in Trichy and is the largest functioning Hindu temple in the world

    The Rockfort Temple is a series of cave temples inside an ancient rock that dates back to over a billion years ago. The  Jambukeshwara Temple is yet another one  of interest in Trichy for all architecture lovers. Also here is the ancient Kallanai Dam, more commonly known as the Grand Anaicut which is a picturesque digression from all the temples.

    One can also extend the trip by driving to Thanjavur or Kumbakonam, both towns boast of ancient temples of stunning architecture.

    Getting There | There are regular flights from Chennai to Trichy everyday. By road the drive to Trichy takes around six hours. There are also connecting trains between the two cities.

    Read  Stories from Trichy

    From a billion years ago.

    5. Thanjavur

    Distance from Chennai  | 320 Kilometres
    Best Time to Visit |
    Dry, cool months. January – March.

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    Airavateeswara Temple in Darasuram, one of the three great living chola temples in Thanjavur

    In and around Thanjavur are ‘The Great Living Chola Temples’, three grand temple complexes dating back to the 11th and 12th centuries. These UNESCO classified world heritage sites make Thanjavur one of the best destinations in the country for architecture & history enthusiasts.

    But this historical town earns its position on this list of places to visit near Chennai not just for this but also because it is the go-to shopping destination for art lovers and connoisseurs.  It is from Thanjavur that the strikingly beautiful gold laid Tanjore Paintings come from.

    The Thanjavur Maratha Palace along with its museum dedicated to the Chola heritage of the region is another tourist attraction here that is worth a visit.

    Getting There | Nearest Airport is Trichy. One would have to fly to Trichy and drive down to Thanjavur, which takes about one and  a half hours. But, there are frequent trains and buses from Chennai to Thanjavur.

    Read  Stories from Thanjavur

    Hello, Kumbakonam Filter Kaapi.
    Great Living Chola Temples : Vol I
    Great Living Chola Temples : Vol II

    6. Madurai

    Distance from Chennai  | 460 Kilometres
    Best Time to Visit |
    All year round.

    Madurai is Tamil Nadu’s pride and the illustrious Meenakshi Amman temple here is truly a marvel. One cannot help but lose oneself in the labyrinth of courtyards in this sprawling temple complex of immense proportions.

    Its fourteen Dravidian style gopurams etched in beautiful detail and intense colour dominate the city’s skyline. So striking is this temple that it has even inspired full blown life size movie sets in the South.

    Getting There | Madurai is connected to Chennai via regular flights, trains and buses. By road, it is an eight hour journey from Chennai to Madurai.

    7. Kodaikanal

    Distance from Chennai  | 525 Kilometres
    Best Time to Visit |
    Summer. March – June.

    Driving through the western ghats to get to Kodaikanal –  this beautiful hill station that often serves as a less crowded alternative to the more famous Ooty –   is in itself a pleasurable experience. It sure is the ideal destination for a leisurely  holiday, for here you can spend your days amongst the mist rolled hills indulging in home made chocolates and boating in the Kodai Lake.

    Getting There | One can get to Kodaikanal from either Coimbatore or Madurai. The drive to Kodaikanal takes anywhere between three to four hours from either of the airports. There are direct trains and buses too that ply regularly between Chennai and Kodaikanal.

    8. Rameshwaram

    Distance from Chennai  | 540 Kilometres
    Best Time to Visit |
    All year round.

    One of the major Hindu pilgrimage sites in the country, Rameswaram is where Rama worshipped Shiva or Eswara as he is also known,  giving this unique holy city its name.

    It is also believed that it was from here, in Rameshwaram, that Rama built the bridge to Lanka to bring back Sita after defeating Ravana.

    But it is the Ramanathaswamy Temple here that brings the most travellers to this Ramayana site. This temple of the many sculpted corridors is a shining example of beautiful Indian architecture. The outer corridor alone has over a thousand carved pillars that taper off into what looks like an exquisitely painted tunnel.

    Add to it the beauty of Pamban Island itself, the island on which this temple town is located and Rameshwaram becomes the one destination on the list of places to visit near Chennai that just cannot be missed!

    Getting There | Nearest Airport is Madurai and the drive from Madurai to Rameshwaram takes around three and a half hours. By train or bus, it is an overnight journey.

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  • Ammapalli Temple: Tollywood’s Favourite Shoot Location!

    Ammapalli Temple: Tollywood’s Favourite Shoot Location!

    Ammapalli Temple. Long Long ago, before Lord Rama met Hanuman during the course of events set out in the Ramayana…Well, thats the time that the few Kondanda Rama Temples that there are, hark back to.

    Five kilometres from the Shamshabad Bus Station is a quiet little village called Ammapalli. In this quite forgotten leafy corner of the city outskirts is a centuries old temple that has long been popular with movie makers and has yet eluded mainstream popularity.

    Ammapalli Temple_7
    The road leading to Ammapalli Temple

    Believe it or not but over four hundred Telugu movies have been shot here! & a few Hindi and Tamil movies too. For there is a sentiment among the Tollywood fraternity that a movie with even one scene shot here at this temple, will surely have a successful run at the box office and for a hundred days at the least.

    Did you know? This temple was extensively featured in the 2001 blockbuster Murari, the very same movie that launched actor Mahesh Babu’s career towards superstardom. The central theme of the movie revolves around an ancient temple and its powerful presiding goddess. Little surprise there then that this Seeta Ramachandra Swamy Temple in Ammapalli makes frequent appearances right from the opening credits to the very climax.

    Ammapalli Temple_3

    Locally known as the Ammapalli Temple, this is the Sri Seeta Ramachandra Swamy Temple in Ammapalli, Shamshabad. Spread over two hundred and fifty acres, it was built sometime in the 11th Century by the Eastern Chalukyas. Like most of the prominent temples dedicated to Lord Rama in our country, this thousand year old temple too marks the spot where he once stopped to rest during his journey in the historic-mythical Dandkaaranyam.

    Ammapalli Temple_1

    Tree lined roads, manicured lawns and clearly sectioned off sandy areas lead you from the  archway to the wide parking ground right outside the main temple. Along the way there are two smaller temples dedicated to Lord Shiva and Hanuman, a couple of mandapams and abandoned looking structures and a beautiful step-well hidden in a grove of coconut trees.

    Ammapalli Temple_10

    If you love discovering beauty in little details, then this step-well is where you should start your exploration of the temple from. Corridors that start off in the Hindu style of pillared mandapams transition into Islamic arches as they go around enclosing the step-well. This was once the koneru where the Brahmostavams were held and people of all faiths would watch from these very corridors the on going festivities.

    Ammapalli Temple_9
    Step Well on the grounds of the temple

    Sri Rama Navami is celebrated in a big way here and the Seetarama Kalyanam is attended by thousands of people annually. As you walk along the grounds, it becomes evident that the Kalyanam has been but an age old tradition of the temple. For most of the structures on the grounds outside the main temple complex are built to serve but this one purpose. From the two storeyed kalyana mandapam to the edurukolla mandapam and even the Nagaar Khana, were the musicians would be seated to play the wedding tunes, they are all laid out for this specific purpose.

    Ammapalli Temple_8.jpg

    Set against these structures is the main temple complex entered through a Gali Gopuram of ninety feet. Like every other aspect of this temple, the architecture of this too is strikingly unique with its colourful Seshashayee Vishnu carved into an otherwise drab brown tower. Then there is the bright white prahari or the boundary wall, which doubles up as a two storeyed corridor with benches on the upper level built into it. To serve as yet another viewing gallery undoubtedly.

    Ammapalli Temple_2

    Ammapalli Temple_11

    Ammapalli Temple_12

    Ammapalli Temple_Featured Image

    For all its splendour though, what stands out the most about the Amapalli temple are the ekashila (single stone) idols and the story behind them. These are doubly unique in the fact that, firstly, this style of carving the deity with the surrounding makaram toranam from a single stone was prevalent only for a brief period of time in history making them rare and invaluable today. Secondly, they date back to a time when Lord Rama hadn’t yet met Hanuman, making this a Kodanda Rama  temple, where Lord Rama is depicted devoid of a bow and a Hanuman next to him.

    And adding to the intrigue is the Abhaya Anjaneya sculpted into the dwaja stambham (pillar) opposite the inner sanctum. On command from Lord Rama, he, Hanuman is said to fulfil the wishes of those devotees who seek it there and this is why when you go here to pray do not block the view between them!

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    Explorers Guide

    Route: Take the PVNR Expressway from the city. Around 8 kilometres before the Rajiv Gandhi International Airport, take the right adjoining the Shamshabad Bus Station. Another 5 kilometres on this straight road and you will find an archway on your left, leading to the Sri Seeta Rama Chandra Swamy Temple .
    Don’t Miss: Every month on the day that falls under Lord Rama’s birth star, Punarvasu, a Seeta Rama Kalyanam is held here in the morning. Followed by a Pallaki Seva and lunch.


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    Read More on Temples in Hyderabad:

    North meets South in Sitaram Bagh


    Read on Other Ramayana Places:

    A Song of Stone: Dichpally Ramalayam


  • Alampur: South India’s City of Moksh

    Alampur: South India’s City of Moksh

    The temple town of Alampur in the Mahbubnagar district of Telangana is renowned for its Ashtadasa Shakti Peetham, the Jogulamba Temple.

    But there is more to this sleepy little town that is only a few hours from Hyderabad. It is believed to be the Western gateway to Srisailam, one of the important pilgrimage centres for Shaivites (Shiva believers) in the country.

    Locals say that there are so many Shiva Lingams everywhere, in and around Alampur only waiting to be found that this little town is known as Dakshina Kasi, implying it is South India’s very own Benaras/Varanasi/Kasi, the abode of Lord Shiva and the Hindus’ City of Moksh (salvation).

    Alampur Jogulamba Temple_4.jpg

    Navabramha Temple Complex & Jogulamba

    Alampur_Jogulamba Temple_2

    Nine for Navabramhas, nine forms of Lord Shiva. 

    Legend has it that a 6th century saint, Rasa Siddha had created a tantric Siddha Rasarnavam here at the Navabramha temples, built by the then Chalukya king, Pulakesi II. Using which, he could create gold out of mercury just by adding a few herbs. It is after this tool of alchemy – religious mysticism, that the nine deities here are named.

    It is in this Navabramha Temple Complex, that the Jogulamba Temple is situated. One of the eighteen major Shakti Peethams, as listed by Adi Shankaracharya. 

    Here the goddess takes her Roudra Roopam or the form of fury. Which is why there is a moat around the main shrine, to cool the atmosphere and make it easier for us mere mortals to pray to this ‘Mother of Yogis’, they say.

    Alampur_Jogulamba Temple_3.jpg

    So, both the principal deities of this temple come power packed with legends and beliefs! It is little wonder then that Alampur is a popular destination for a lot of Hindu pilgrims in Telangana.

    Alampur_Jogulamba Temple_8.jpg

    But what is different here is that, this temple complex stands a stoic witness to a lot of mankind’s history.

    Alampur_Jogulamba Temple_10.jpg

    Alampur_Jogulamba Temple_6.jpg

    For within its original walls, amidst all the temples, sits a dargah (grave/shrine of a religious figure or saint)

    Speaking volumes of a time when not just this temple was invaded by intolerant rulers. The Bahamani sultans of the 14th century, in this case.

    Alampur_Jogulamba Temple_1

    Sangameswara Temple

    Every temple in this town seems to some how signify the importance of the holy confluence of the rivers Krishna and Tungabadhra. To begin with, Alampur itself gets the monicker ‘Navabramha Theertham’ from this. the most prominent one, the Navabramha Temple Complex built on the banks of Tungabadhra in the 7th century, together with the word ‘theertham’ meaning holy water give this town the name . Yet another temple in Alampur hinting at the holy confluence or Sangam is the Sangameswara Temple.

    Alampur_Sangameswara Temple

    Did you know?
    The Sangameswara Temple was moved stone for stone from the banks of the river to where it is now, during the construction of the Srisailam Dam in the 1970s.

    This temple comes next only in terms of popularity for it is just as beautiful as the first if not even more striking in its stoic solitude. This only leaves us to wonder just how important were these rivers once, spiritually!

    Papanasi Group of Temples

    Save the best for the last and use Google Maps to take you to the Papanasi Group of Temples next. Tucked away, just around the corner from the main town of Alampur, is this cluster of 24 temples, stunningly elegant in their simple design.

    Alampur_Papanasi Group of Temples

    Majority of these shrines are dedicated to Lord Shiva – yet again – housing Lingams in numerous forms.


    Explorers Guide

    Distance from Hyderabad: 215 kilometres
    Trip Duration:
    Full Day
    Route:
    Alampur is a three hour drive along the Hyderabad-Bangalore Highway. One can either go via the Outer Ring Road or the Airport. To save on time, plan your day trip so that you are not stuck in the city traffic during peak hours.
    Tourist Info: The Jogulamba Temple in Alampur is open from 7 am to 5:30 pm, and is closed for an hour during the day between 1pm to 2pm. It is advisable, though not mandatory, for women to dress in traditional Indian clothes like a salwar kameez or a saree.
    Remember: The Jogulamba temple closes early, so make sure to visit here first. It is also customary to take along a saree and bangles as an offering to the Mother Goddess.


    Hyderabad Roadtrips_Alampur.jpg

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    Read More on Temples in Telangana:

    Of Rocks & Hidden Temples: Armoor
    A Song of Stone: Dichpally Ramalayam
    Town of Hymns: Manthani
    Lost in Time: Nagunur Ruins


  • 5 Unmissable Places to visit in Warangal

    5 Unmissable Places to visit in Warangal

    Who doesn’t know the Kakatiya Kala Toranam? It is the omnipresent symbol of Telangana Heritage, incorporated even in the emblem of this newly formed state. A massive stone gateway and the proud legacy of Kakatiya art and architecture, one of these today stands in a park in Warangal. With the rest of the ruins from the Kakatiya fort.

    Read on to find other such unmissable places to visit in Warangal to add to your trip itinerary.

    #1 Thousand Pillar Temple

    The most popular tourist place in Warangal is the Thousand Pillar Temple.

    It has featured in numerous Telugu movies, most prominently in Varsham, Bahubali star Prabhas’s first major romantic blockbuster. The many songs and scenes from movie shot here in the rain are by far the most stunning take on the Thousand Pillar Temple.

    Constructed in 1163 AD by Rudra Deva in the Chalukya style, it has three presiding deities, Vishnu, Shiva and Surya. The most recognisable feature of this temple besides its richly carved pillars is the huge monolithic Nandi of black stone.

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    The Thousand Pillar Temple – currently closed to public and under restoration

    Some areas of the Thousand Pillar Temple are closed off for renovation but there is a fully functional Hindu temple on the grounds in the same architectural style. So don’t just leave it off of your list of places to visit in Warangal. It is still is the place from where you should start your day in the city.

    #2 Warangal Fort & Kakatiya Kala Toranam

    If you are using Google Maps to navigate within the city, look for Warangal Fort Park and not Warangal Fort. For that will take you to where the original fort once stood and which is now just a crumbling structure of stone, overrun in grass.

    & yes what is now referred to as the Warangal Fort is just a park with well laid out pieces of sculptures and entry ways from the fort, including the Kakatiya Kala Toranam.

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    Ruins of Warangal Fort
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    Kakatiya Kala Toranam in the Warangal Fort Park

    TOURIST INFO

    Warangal Fort Park is a ticketed monument.
    Open from 10am to 7pm, all days of the week.
    There is also a sound and light show here every evening after sunset.

    #3 Kush Mahal

    Built within the walls of Warangal Fort, Kush Mahal is Tughlaq era hall. Though the original use for which it was built is not known for sure, we know that when the Tughlaqs conquered Warangal, they razed Kakatiya architecture to ground and built over them to mark their conquest.

    So its a stones throw from that which it aimed to obliterate – the gateway and what it stood for.

    Though not counted amongst popular tourist places of Warangal, it is a local favourite.

    #4 Bhadrakali Temple

    Set against a backdrop of water and hills, the Badhrakali temple isn’t just scenic. There is something powerful about the place, for darshan here is an intense experience.

    Making it the foremost of places to visit in Warangal for many.

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    #5 Ramappa Temple & Lake

    Ageless in its magnificence, it is as if the Ramappa Temple is a time capsule. This medieval temple from 1213 AD is beautiful beyond words and almost intact.

    Definitely one of those tourist places in Warangal that one will regret to miss.

    Did You Know? The bricks used to build the Ramappa Temple were so light that they can actually float on water!

    It is also the only temple in the country to be known by the name of its sculptor. No surprise there for its sculptures are truly exquisite and an image of them will probably stay with you forever.

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    5 minutes from the temple is the Ramappa Lake.

    Peaceful and serene it is neither crowded nor noisy, even on a weekend. The resort on its banks serving piping hot, spicy Andhra food makes Ramappa an ideal location for a quiet overnighter.

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    #6 Laknavaram Lake

    The Lakanavaram Lake is beautiful and its waters soothing no doubt, but its popularity is its curse.

    From its yellow suspension bridge to the mini island resort on the lake, it is so popular as a weekend getaway from Hyderabad that it gets nearly impossible to even stay a while if your intention is to wind down and enjoy being outdoors with nature.

    Inspite of all that, here is a lake which was formed in the 13th century by closing down three narrow valleys and is actually so well hidden by the surrounding hills that even today you wouldn’t be able to see it till you actually reach the bridge. 

    So it is worth a quick day trip if you are in the area and want to tick it off your warangal tourist places list!

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    GETTING THERE:

    Hyderabad to Warangal Distance 145 Kms
    Route
    Take the NH163 via Outer Ring Road to reach Warangal in two and a half hours.

    Warangal to Ramappa Temple Distance 70 Kms
    Warangal to Lakanavaram Lake Distance 70 Kms
    Ramappa Temple to Laknavaram Lake Distance 29 Kms


    Stay: Tourism Department’s Haritha Kakatiya Hotel at Warangal or Lake View Haritha Resort at Ramappa Lake. Call on +91 9000282897 for bookings and information.


    Explore Other City Guides:

    24 Hours in Jaipur
    A Heritage Walk through The Walled City of Udaipur


  • Great Living Chola Temples – Vol II: Gangaikonda Cholapuram

    Great Living Chola Temples – Vol II: Gangaikonda Cholapuram

    Second on UNESCO’s list of The Great Living Chola Temples, is the Brihadeeswara Temple at Gangaikonda Cholapuram.

    In a tiny village lost in time, is this 982 year old temple. This Brihadeeswara Temple too is built on the same lines as the Big Temple in Thanjavur, complete with a massive stone sculpture of Nandi facing the main shrine. Upon the death of Rajaraja I the capital was shifted from Thanjavur to Gangaikonda Cholapuram and there came about this smaller version of the original Brihadeeswara Temple.

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    This temple complex isn’t merely structurally beautiful. It is also tranquil. Owing not just to its gentler architecture but also probably to it’s secluded location.

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    After driving around all morning and noon in the summer heat of Tamil Nadu, it was evening by the time we got here.

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    & what with the setting sun deciding to play peek-a-boo from behind the looming rain clouds, an all pervading sense of peace descended over me, as I took my time exploring, strolling around the expansive, almost deserted grounds of the temple.

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    The bronze sculptures here are said to be priceless specimens of Chola art, but it was the Simhakeni or The Lion Well, that I found singularly intriguing.

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    Explorers Guide

    Trip Duration: Day Trip
    Getting There: Road Trip from Thanjavur.
    Route: Thanjavur – Darasuram – Gangaikonda Cholapuram -Thanjavur
    (183 Kilometres)
    Distance from Thanjavur to Darasuram: 72 Kilometres
    Distance from Darasuram to Gangaikonda Cholapuram:
    39 Kilometres
    Distance from Gangaikonda  Cholapuram to Thanjavur: 72 Kilometres


    Read First: The Great Living Chola Temples: Vol I


    Other Temples in Tamil Nadu:

    Rockfort Temple, Trichy


     

  • Road Tripping through Konaseema

    Road Tripping through Konaseema

    Konaseema. The lush bucolic countryside of Coastal Andhra. ‘Kona’ for corner, this land wedged into a corner surrounded by water, is one of the most fertile deltas of Southern India.  The Godavari river keeps you company, as you Road Trip through these idyllic coastal towns. Known for its beauty, Konaseema has been depicted extensively with its swaying coconut trees and green backwater canals.

    But, how best do you enjoy this beauty? For it is no tourist destination like Kerala where houseboats abound aplenty on the backwaters.

    So here I chose one town, rather a small city, Kakinada and put together a two day itinerary for a road trip through Konaseema, that include visits to beaches, ancient temples and artisan villages.

    Window Views of Konaseema

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    Story goes.. There was once a powerful asura (demon) Tarakasura who was at war with the gods and thanks to a boon, he could only be killed by a son of Lord Shiva. So there began a battle between him and Kumaraswamy, Shiva’s younger son and Lord Ganesha’s brother. But, at every deadly blow, the rakshasa, Tarakasura would reform limb to limb from his cut off body parts. This power to reform came from a Shiva Linga that the demon wore. So the only way to destroy him was to break the lingam first. Eventually, there came to be five pieces of this Siva lingam and these fell in five different places in Andhra Pradesh. Temples were then built in those locations around the fragments. Those five ancient temples now constitute the Pancharamam.

    & Kakinada happens to have two of those in driving distance.

    Bhimaramam (at Samarlakota)

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    All the pancharamam temples are two storeyed  stone temples for they are all home to massive Shivalingas.

    To continue the story, the five fragments were installed and worshipped at five temples by the five gods, Indra, Surya, Chandra, Vishnu and Kumaraswamy. This one near Samarlakota was by Kumaraswamy himself. & the temple itself is beautiful, peaceful and not too crowded.

    Draksharamam

    Probably the biggest and definitely the most celebrated of the  five is Draksharamam, a pancharamam and also a shakti peetham. This 10th century temple has a rich history of mythological legends associated with. It is even believed to be the site of Dakshayagnam and that Daksha’s daughter Sati is none other than the Goddess Manikyamba who is alongside Shiva in this temple. Making it one of the major asthadasa shakti peethams in the country.

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    Annavaram

    In Annavaram is a small hill, Ratnagiri, which is home to the temple dedicated to Lord Satyanarayan Swamy. A form of Lord Vishnu, that all Hindus worship at weddings, housewarmings and all important social occasions in one’s life. Making this a pilgrimage centre that is second in popularity only to Tirupati.

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    Uppada

    The famous handcrafted Jamdani silk sarees come from here. Need I say more?
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    READ: Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Uppada

    & The Beach

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    Explorers Guide

    Getting There: Every place on the itinerary is less than an hour and a half from Kakinada.
    Distances from Kakinada:
    Samarlakota – 15 kilometres
    Draksharamam – 34 kilometres
    Annavaram – 45 kilometres
    Uppada – 16 kilometres
    Highway Pit Stop: One. Foodcourt near Annavaram.
    Best Time to Visit: Monsoons
    Stay: Paradigm Sarovar Portico. Comfortable and centrally located.
    Vegetarian Restaurants: Subbaya’s Hotel, Bhimas.
    Bring Back: Kakinada Kaja


     

  • Armoor: Of Rocks and Hidden Temples

    Armoor: Of Rocks and Hidden Temples

    In Nizamabad, is a temple. Though not quite as legendary as the Dichpally Ramalayam, but just as historic. Popularly known as Armoor Siddula Gutta, this is the Navanatha Siddheswara Temple and a  series of cave temples inside the rock formations of Armoor.

    Armoor Rock Formations

    As you drive along the highway from Nizamabad to Armoor, you will go past a long stretch of hills that look like they were made by someone who has artistically and quite laboriously piled up boulders to form them. These are the Armoor Rock Formations. Naturally weathered rocks crafted by mother nature  for over millions of years. They are so distinctively striking that they are but a natural stopover for anyone driving that way and rightly so.

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    Sitting in a cave somewhere in those rocks is the Navantha Siddula Gutta, gutta for cave and Navanatha Siddhas for the sages who are believed to still reside in them.

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    Armoor Siddula Gutta

    Fifteen years ago a ghat road was built through the rock formation, leading straight to Siddulagutta. There is also a walkway from the Gol Bungalow for pilgrims wishing to do the climb up to the temple by foot.

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    Inside these caves is a Shiva Temple, where the Shiva Lingam is said to be swaymbhu or self-manifested. It is said that the lingam here has always been worshipped by devotees, since the Tretayuga. That is the second age of mankind, in Hinduism! We are currently in the fourth.

    The entrance to this cave temple is a door that is barely three feet. Once you crouch through it, the cave opens up and skylight filters in. You walk along in the designated route through the caves and you will come across many little temples in interconnected passageways. Even one dedicated to the Goddess Durga.

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    Just outside the exit point of this narrow cave is a Ramalayam and the temple tank, Jeeva Koneru. Legend has it that during the construction of the temple, when this tank was dug, it failed to well up with water. So, Rampriyadas Maharaj, the person who built the temple took up a tapasaya, that lasted forty-one days. At the end of which Lord Rama himself came to him in a dream and the water in this is believed to have been blessed with curative powers. Making the armoor siddula gutta popular amongst pilgrims undertaking the journey to be healed.

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    Otherwise quiet and forgotten, the temple tends to get crowded on the festival of Sri Rama Navami. Work is currently underway to build facilities to accommodate these devotees and also other temples around it on the flat ground between the rocks.

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    Beyond the Cave Temples

    Further up the rocks, the summit flattens out into a breezy plateau. The village of Armoor with its houses of redbrick roofs and the setting sun glinting off the black rocks lend the landscape such beauty, that it has actually been the location for many a movie shoot.

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    Just about perfect for that evening picnic.

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    Explorers Guide

    Distance from Hyderabad: 184 Kilometres
    Trip Duration:
    Day Trip
    Getting There: Armoor is around 37 kilometres from the town of Nizamabad, along the intersection of NH7 and NH16.
    Other Places of Interest: Pochampadu Dam  (Sri Rama Sagar Project)
    30 kilometres from here this dam on the Godavari River is widely accepted to be the lifeline of Northern Telangana. It is quite a sight to behold when its forty-two floodgates are open.


    Read More on Temples in Telangana

    Town of Hymns: Manthani
    Lost in Time: Nagunur Ruins
    South India’s City of Moksh: Alampur
    A Song of Stone: Dichpally Ramalayam


     

  • North meets South in Sitaram Bagh

    North meets South in Sitaram Bagh

    Tucked away in a quiet corner of the old city of Hyderabad is the Sitaram Bagh Temple. Built by a banker Mr. Puranmal Ganeriwal in 1832, this centuries old Shri Sitaram Mandir is a sprawling complex of temples and beautiful airy courtyards spread over twenty five acres.

    From the main entrance and its imposing facade to the labyrinth of quadrangle courtyards leading you on to endless discoveries, this peaceful temple is a visual treat. Built in a style that is exquisitely distinctive, it combines the North and South Indian styles of architecture with the European. 

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    Back in the day, Seth Puranmal acquired land in what was then the village of Mallapally, in the outskirts of Hyderabad, laid out an expansive garden (bagh) and built a temple for Sitaramji. Thus bestowing on this temple, the moniker Sitaram Bagh.

    This stretch of land was also the site for a Qutb Shahi Mosque, which stands till today, albeit separated from the temple by a concrete wall. Also on this expanse is an archaic step well that was connected via subterranean ducts to a well in the mosque. It is around this step well that the various structures of the temple complex, including a gaushala, ved pathshala and houses for the Bramhin families were constructed.

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    This entire compound is now a protected monument by the Archaeological Survey of India.

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    As you enter the main temple, intricately painted doors, imposing archways and massive colour blocked doors take you through a series of courtyards.

    Each one opening out to a mandapa, a temple or to just an open-to-sky pavilion enclosed in European style terraces adorned with Rajasthani style jharokas.

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    If one courtyard boasts of a South Indian mandapa adorned with the Dasavataras carved in stone, the very next one will surprise you with a mandapa of European columns and fading frescos.

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    Even the two main temples alternate in their styles. While the Sitaramji Mandir is built in the North Indian style, with an entrance reminiscent of a palace in Rajasthan, the Varadarajaji Mandir is built in the typical Dravidian architecture style of South India.

    The idols of the main deities are in marble, staying true to the prevailing theme of Rajasthani. Little surprise then that the Sitarambagh temple is popular with the local Marwaris in and around the old city. 

    The Hanuman Mandir though, sitting away from the maze of the courtyards and almost too close to the boundary wall of the complex is a little cut off from both the main temple and its old world charm.

    It wasn’t until renovations began around 2015, that people even knew just how old or huge the stone idol of Hanumanji was. Only once the twelve inch sindhoor chola on the sculpture was taken off did they realise that the Hanuman idol was in fact burrowed knee deep in earth. The eight feet by five feet statue was then dug out and reinstated, complete with a new South Indian style Gopuram. What is distinctive about this addition though is that, facing the four directions are Abhay Hanuman, Veer Hanuman, Bhakt Hanuman and the Das Mudra. All of them typically North Indian on a South Indian style shikhar.

    Every turn that you take in this grand layout, will only reinforce in you the awe that you experience at how beautifully North meets South in this temple.


    Explorers Guide

    Timings: 5.30 – 11.30 am &  5 – 8 pm

    Remember: Dress conservatively. For though not really crowded like the other temples in the city, the management including even the security of the temple complex are quite orthodox in their ways. They double check to ascertain that you are indeed a Hindu before you are even allowed to wander into the outer courtyard of the temple!

    Don’t Miss: The baoli (step-well). It is outside the main Sitaram Mandir and fenced off, making it in a way, quite easy to miss unless you go looking for it. Go  straight along the path to the Hanuman temple, right across from the main entrance and you will find it to your left.


    PS: The famous Purana Rangji Mandir in Pushkar was also built by the same Mr. Generiwal in the year 1844. Yet again, in the same unique combination of the South Indian Dravidian style and the North Indian Rajasthani Vaastukala.


     

  • Town of Hymns: Manthani

    Town of Hymns: Manthani

    Named after a Khiledar under the reign of Sikandar Jha during 1803 to 1823, Syed Karimuddin, Karimnagar is one district in Telangana, which has ancient places seeped in historic importance to both Hindus and Buddhists alike. The most popular amongst these is Manthani.

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    Home to the ruins of a Gautameswara Temple, Manthani is a timeless village from an era gone by.

    On the banks of the river Godavari, it had once flourished as the seat of Vedic learning. Also referred to as Mantrapuri  or The Town of Hymns it gets its name from the Sanskrit word Mantra Kutam, meaning House of Mantras.

    It is also popularly believed that Manthani is home to a thousand Bramhin families, which is why it is also called the Sahasra Brahamana Gadapa i.e. a Thousand Brahmin’s Threshold. Little surprise then that though the temple in Manthani is in ruins today, overrun with a patchwork of  undergrowth that is a brilliant-hued green, the town continues to be culturally significant for Hindus.

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    Work is underway to put back the beautiful stone temple of Manthani to how it once stood. Meanwhile there is a new, fully functional temple on the premises.

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    Explorers Guide

    Getting There: The distance from Hyderabad to Karimnagar is around 164 kilometres, but if you take the NH44 via Medchal you will reach the town in less than two hours. Manthani is a further 64 kilometres from here.
    Route: Once on the road by the village, ask around and get to the ‘temple on the banks of Godavari’. It can get a little tricky, because this one is not on Google Maps.
    Best Time to Visit: In the rains.

     


    Read Next: Lost in Time: Nagunur Ruins


    Read More on Temples in Telangana:

    Of Rocks and Hidden Temples: Armoor
    A Song of Stone: Dichpally Ramalayam
    South India’s City of Moksh: Alampur


     

     

     

     

  • Nagunur Ruins: Lost in Time

    Nagunur Ruins: Lost in Time

    Less than three hours from Hyderabad, the district of Karimnagar in Telangana is peppered with numerous lesser-known forts and ancient ruins, making it the ideal day trip destination. Not yet over run with tourists, here you can happily explore at your own pace.

    Home to a  cluster of Kalyana and Kakatiya temple ruins, Nagunur is one such village in Karimnagar. Once the centre of the Kakatiya Empire, it is today but a tiny village lost in timeWith these temples at its heart, it does not take but more than ten minutes to traverse through this entire village!

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    The most significant among these temples – from the 12th century – is the Trikuta Temple built by the Chalukyas of Kalyani.

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    Though constructed in the same style as the Manthani temple, it is in much better shape today, with the three shrines dedicated to Lord Shiva showing evidence of continuing worship.

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    Nagunur Temple Ruins

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    Explorers Guide

    Getting There: Nagunur is 260 kilometers from Hyderabad and the drive via NH44 through Outer Ring Road will take around three and a half hours.
    Best Time to Visit: Monsoons. With the rain clouds as a backdrop, these ancient temples look serenely beautiful.


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  • The Great Living Chola Temples – Vol I: Brihadeeswara Temple

    The Great Living Chola Temples – Vol I: Brihadeeswara Temple

    In and around Thanjavur are The Great Living Chola Temples, three temple complexes dating back to the 11th and 12th centuries. Built by the Cholas, who were undoubtedly one of the most powerful monarchies of South India that ruled for over four and a half centuries, all of these ancient temples are ‘living temples’ – classified as such by UNESCO on their World Heritage List – in the sense that the pattern of worship and rituals established over a thousand years ago continue as is, to this day.

    Thanjavur, mostly known for the Tanjore (Thanjavur) Paintings that are unique to this region, is home to the first of these Great Living Chola Temples. Locally known as the Big Temple, this is the Brihadeeswara Temple in Thanjavur. The grandest of the three.

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    As the region passed on from the Cholas to the Nayaks and then to the Marathas over the centuries, a few additions were made to the temple complex, from protective fort walls to murals and minor temples. One such are the beautiful frescos painted onto the ceiling of the Mandapam housing the massive 25 tonne monolithic Nandi, mount of Lord Shiva or Brihadeeswara, as he is in this temple.

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    & this particular mural is undoubtedly reminiscent of the famous Tanjore Paintings, all it needs is a little touch of gold!

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    Everything about this temple is big. The 20 feet Nandi, the 15 feet Dwarapalakas guarding the entrances, the 216 feet Vimana towering over the Sanctum Sanctorum that has to be two storeyed to house the  huge Shiva Lingam (lingam form of the presiding deity).

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    The Vimana built over a base tier of two levels rises to dizzying heights, carrying on it an octagonal stone Shikhara which itself weighs 81 tonnes.

    Ancient inscriptions refer to this Vimana as Dakshina Meru, implying it to be Mount Meru of the South or Maha Meru, Lord Shiva’s mountain abode.

    It is said that a special ramp was constructed to carry the Shikhara up, to install on the Vimana, from a site six kilometres away and that more than a thousand elephants were required in the construction of this temple. Which is probably one of most the magnificent of Indian temples.

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    In fact, the city of Thanjavur itself was created with the deliberate intention of establishing it as a Bhakti centre. So, here is this impressively massive Big Temple at its heart and radiating out from it is the city, growing in concentric circuits starting from the inner quadrangle of the temple.

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    A colonnade of sandstone columns run all along the inner perimeter of the temple forming a circumambulatory path or Prakara. Though the Prakara itself dates back to the original construction, the 108 Shiva Lingas set against the stunning backdrop of beautiful murals painted on these stone walls are a 16th century addition.

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    UNESCO World Heritage Site India

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    UNESCO World Heritage Site India

     

    The main temple itself occupies the rear half of the inner quadrangle, while two colossal Gopurams (gates)  – Keralaanthagan & Rajarajan – into which are carved monolithic stone sculptures, lead the way.

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    Exemplifying the pure Dravidian style of architecture, these Chola Temples are not significant not just archaeologically but culturally as well. For it is believed that the Cholas built their temples not just as places for their people to get together and pray but to serve as epicentres of economic activity.

    No trip to Thanjavur would be complete without witnessing these marvels of workmanship. The sheer size of these temples will cause you to wonder, muse on the scale at which affairs of state were once carried out!

    The other two temples which together with the Big Temple form this unique group of living temples are the Brihadeeswara Temple at Gangaikonda Cholapuram and the Airavateswara Temple at Darasuram.


    Explorers Guide

    Getting There: Begin your day trip with the Brihadeeswara Temple in Thanjavur, drive on to the Airavateswara Temple, Darasuram, making a quick pitstop for lunch along the way on this 37 Kilometres stretch. Complete the circuit with the Brihadeeswara Temple, Gangaikonda Cholapuram. The 72 Kilometres drive from here, back to Thanjavur will take around 2 hours.


    PS: Here is a super shaky video of a few of the brilliant murals in the Prakara.

    Decided to add this here to the post, inspite of it being such a terrible attempt at shooting video because, I do want to share with you atleast a glimpse of the natural dye frescos that are such a fine example of ancient Indian artistry.

  • From a billion years ago.

    From a billion years ago.

    Thwack. Down came the elephant’s trunk on my head, in a gesture of blessing. I was surprised at how gentle it was, gentle giants indeed.

    We were in Trichy, Tamil Nadu to attend a wedding at our family friends’ home and the temple elephant was here to bless the newly weds, to flag off their journey together on an auspicious note. Even though I grew up in a traditional South Indian family this was completely unexpected. After all, it isn’t everyday that a majestic elephant walks into a wedding!

    But, knowing where I was, it shouldn’t have come as a surprise.

    Amongst the many interpretations of how this town got its name, one that particularly sticks in this case is that, Tiruchirapalli could have come from Tiruchinnapalli, which when broken down means Holy Little Town. Or even Tirussilapalli, meaning Holy Rock Town. Which brings us to the Rockfort Temple.

    Tiruchirapalli or Trichy as one familiarly calls it, has always been an important religious centre for the Hindus with many a prolific and ancient temple peppered around town. From the more famous Ranganatha Swamy temple of Srirangam to the Rockfort Temple, which has come to be a symbol of this temple town.

    I am yet to see a temple so striking and haughty in its simplicity, as this one. Sitting on a 272 feet rock, right in the centre of Trichy, it draws your gaze in, from wherever in the city you are, like a pivot.

    So, here is where we went first, this intriguing fort-temple on the rock.

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    As we wound our way through the busy bazaar at the foot of the rock, I really did not know what to expect. There were the usual lines of people going about their prayers – visible from the busy street – in the Ganesh Temple which was right there. But did Ucchi Pillayar Kovil not mean Ganesh temple at the top, literally?

    It was then that our guide explained to us that there are two rock cut temples in the fort, the lower and upper cave temples.

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    Having paid our respects at the Manikka Vinayakar Temple, the lower cave temple, we began the steep climb of over 350 steps through the ancient rock that dates back to over a billion years ago.

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    Of the many cave temples that we passed by, cut into this monolithic rock, the oldest was built by the Pallavas in 580 AD.

    The biggest in this complex though is the Thayumana Swamy Temple dedicated to Lord Shiva and his consort Goddess Parvathi, spanning a length of two stories in a regular building.

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    Stunning though it was, right from its architecture to the colourful murals painted on the walls of the cave, it is the Ganesh temple sitting right at the summit that takes your breath away.

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    As you come out of the caves and struggle to climb up the sheer rock face to reach this temple, you are bound to pause for breath and that is when you realise just how picturesque the panoramas that it offers of the city look.

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    We did too.

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    As the breeze blew cool in my face I caught my first glimpse of Srirangam, from inside the Ucchi Pillayar Kovil.

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    Explorers Guide

    Distance from Chennai: 335 kilometers
    Trip Duration: Weekend
    Getting There: Sitting right in the center of Tamil Nadu, Trichy can be reached by road from Chennai in 6 hours. There are also regular flights from Chennai to Trichy.


    Read More on Temples in Tamil Nadu:

    The Great Living Chola Temples: Vol I
    The Great Living Chola Temples: Vol II


     

  • Dichpally Ramalayam: A Song of Stone

    Dichpally Ramalayam: A Song of Stone

    One of the oldest and the most renowned temple in Nizamabad is the Ramalayam in Dichpally. This 14th century temple dedicated to the Ram Avtaar of Lord Vishnu is also called the Indhoor Khajuraho and Khilla Ramalayam.

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    Sitting on a hillock the Dichpally Ramalayam offers one, sweeping views of the quaint little town of Dichpally and is undoubtedly a worthy vantage point to enjoy the early morning breeze.

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    This also makes it a picturesque location for taking panoramic shots, with an almost submerged ancient mandapam just about visible in a clear lake on one side and little brick houses with red roofs lined along its bank on the other.

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    While steps up the hillock lead you through an entrance typical of a fort complete with a fortification wall all around the temple grounds, which is probably why the locals now call this temple Khilla Ramalayam.

    Considered to be a fine example of the Kakatiya’s architectural splendour, this stone structure of black and white basalt has sculptures on its pillars that are reminiscent of the ones on the famous Khajuraho temples, bestowing on it the moniker of Indhoor Khajuraho, indicative of a time when Nizamabad was Indhoor, named so after a Rashtrakuta King.

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    These carvings based on Vatsayana’s Kamasutra were so remarkable that even the name of this town traces its origins to it. These stone sculptures were called ‘Gicchu Bommalu’ by the villagers of that time, meaning pictures of Gicchu, the Sanskrit word for romance and beauty. Over time the village of gicchu, Gicchu Palle came to be Dichpally.

    In the 13th century when Ala Ud Din Khilji conquered Nizamabad, there began a trend where Hindu temples were not allowed to be built, so did the construction of this temple stop midway and it was only many years later that the idols of Ram, Sita and Hanuman were installed here. The temple as you see it today was only complete in 1949 when steps leading up the hillock and a subway connecting it to another popular temple in Nizamabad were built under the stewardship of Gajavada Chinnaya.

    Legend has it that in the Tretayuga, when right after meeting Hanuman for the first time, Lord Ram was on his way to wage war on Ravan, he stopped here on this hill and stayed a fortnight and it is to mark this that a Ramalayam was built here.


    Explorers Guide

    Distance from Hyderabad: 160 Kilometers
    Trip Duration: Half Day
    Route: Take the NH44 from Hyderabad to Nizamabad. Around 15 kilometers before you reach the town of Nizamabad get off the NH7 to reach Dichpally.
    Getting There: The Ramalayam is the biggest and most popular place in town and the wider roads in town leading here are an evidence to that. Follow the sign posts and soon you will spot the ‘temple on the hillock’.

     


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