Map In My Pocket

Tag: Architectural Heritage

Pancharamam Temples : One Ancient Shiva Lingam, Five Temples.

The Pancharamam Kshetras spread across Andhra Pradesh are essentially five temples built for just one Shiva Lingam. A popular pilgrimage circuit for the Hindus of Andhra Pradesh, this tour across temple towns (and, otherwise) takes you through Palakollu, Bhimavaram, Samarlakota, Draksharamam to the State Captial, Amaravathi.
The Legend of Pancharam Kshetralu
Once upon a time there was a Rakshasa King, Tarakasura and he owned a magnificent and powerful Shiva Lingam. Or so the story goes.
A war ensued between the devas and asuras, the classic showdown between Gods and demons.
Kumaraswamy, the God of War himself, was fighting the demon Tarakasura but couldn’t kill him, no matter how. For at every deadly blow, the rakshasa would reform, limb to limb, from his cut off body parts. This power to rejoin came from the aforementioned mighty Shiva Lingam that the demon wore.
The only way to destroy him was to break this powerful lingam first.
So, it was to be. And, by the end of the battle, there came to be five pieces of this mythical Siva Lingam. Which fell in five different places in Andhra Pradesh. Temples were then built in those locations around the fragments and it is these five ancient temples that now constitute the Pancharama Kshetralu.
Architecture of Pancharamam Temples
All of the Pancharamam temples are two storeyed stone temples, for fragments though the Shiva Lingams are, they are all massive Shiva Lingams in themselves.
To continue the story, the five fragments were installed and worshipped at five temples by the five gods, Indra, Surya, Chandra, Vishnu and Kumaraswamy.
Temple 1 |Kumararamam / Bhimaramam
Where | Samarlakota
Shiva Lingam Installed By | Kumaraswamy, Son of Shiva
The first one, by Kumaraswamy himself is at Samarlakota near Kakinada and is known as Kumararamam or Bhimaramam variously. The temple is beautiful, peaceful and yet not too crowded like the other four.
Getting There | From Kakinada, Kumararamam in Samarlakota is 15 kilometers away.
Temple 2 | Draksharamam
Where | Draksharamam
Shiva Lingam Installed By | Surya, Sun God
The next one nearest to here is Draksharamam. Probably the biggest and definitely the most celebrated of the five, Draksharamam isn’t just a Pancharamam Kshetra but also a Shakti Peetham.
This expansive tenth century temple boasts of a rich history and numerous mythological legends are associated with it, which is one of the reasons for its popularity.
Believed to be the site of the mythical Dakshayagnam – where Daksha Prajapati’s daughter and Shiva’s wife, Sati immolated herself in the Yagna Fire – it is one of the eighteen major Asthadasa Shakti Peethams in the country. And she is manifest here as the Goddess Manikyamba alongside Lord Shiva.
Getting There | One can get to Draksharam too from Kakinada. It is at a distance of 34 kilometers from the city.
ALSO READ: Road Tripping through Konaseema
Temple 3 | Somaramam
Where | Bhimavaram
Shiva Lingam Installed By | Chandra, Moon God
The Shiva Lingam in Somaramam is said to change colour according to the phases of the Moon. If it is a pristine white on full moon nights, it is a dark ebony on the days of no moon or amaavasya, probably owing to the fact that legend says, this is the Shiva Lingam that was installed by Chandra or the Moon God himself.
Getting There | The easiest way to get to Bhimavaram is from Rajahmundry which is 90 kilometers away.
Temple 4 | Ksheeraramam
Where | Palakollu
Shiva Lingam Installed By | Vishnu, The Protector
In Ksheeraramam, Shiva instated by Vishnu here, is Ksheera Ramalingeswara Swamy and the temple itself flaunts a nine storeyed temple tower.
Getting There | This too like the last one is in West Godavari and the most convenient way to get there would be from Rajahmundry via Bhimavaram.
Temple 5 | Amararamam
Where | Amaravathi
Shiva Lingam Installed By | Indra, God of Wealth
The last of the five temples is Amararamam in Amaravathi, Andhra Pradesh’s burgeoning new capital. Legend has it that this Shiva Lingam laid here by Indra wouldn’t stop growing and a nail was affixed to it, in an attempt to stop its growth. But the Lingam started bleeding and today devotees from all across flock here, to this ancient temple on the banks of the river Krishna, to catch a glimpse of that red stain on the head of the Lingam.
Getting There | One can get to Amaravathi from Vijayawada, which is only 18 kilometers away.

January 18, 2020
In Photos: Terracotta Temple of Hyderabad

A quiet descends over you as you find your way – through the expansive grounds of the Dadabadi Jain Sevashram hemmed in with trees – towards the Terracotta Jain Temple in Hyderabad. Only a stones throw from the other, more popular Karwan Jain Temple in Gudimalkapur near Mehdipatnam, the Dadabadi Jain Temple is a lyrical beauty of dulcet contrasts and a true oasis of peace in the otherwise crowded and narrow lanes of Karwan.

Dadabadi Shwetamber Jain Temple, Hyderabad

Built in a combination of terracotta and marble, this two hundred year old Shwetambar Jain temple makes for striking contrasts. You cannot but stop to admire the beauty of the rather unusual combination of the brick red of the terracotta and the pristine white of the Rajasthani Marble. Not to mention the intricate patterns carved into them. And, there is never a frisson of disturbance to the peace. Not by the pigeons flocking to the basins of birdseed kept out for them, nor by the steady trickle of regulars who come by everyday from all parts of the city to go about their solitary sojourn of faith and religion.

Past all this, as you enter the main sanctum, the smile on Dada Shri Jin Kushal Suri’s idol, to whom this temple is dedicated, only adds to the mood. You don’t have to be a Jain to experience a sense of stillness, here in this atmospheric temple.

Alongside the Dadabadi Shrine and terracotta temple, you will also find an old step-well, now in disuse, a conspicuously bright and new play ground, a multi-tiered marble fountain here and there amidst all the lush foliage on the grounds here. There is also an old peoples home and a wedding hall for Jains here.

Explorers Guide

Don’t Miss

Sundays and full moon days, if you want to attend a ritualistic Jain prayer.

Handy Tip

Though not mandatory, it is recommended that one wears white when visiting the Dadabadi Jain Temple. For it is of the Shwetambar Jain Sect.

Getting There

Head towards to the Gudimalkapur Park from Mehdipatnam. The temple is inside the Dadabadi Jain Sevasharam complex opposite the Sarada Nagar Community Hall, a little beyond the Gudimalkapur Park.

READ: 56 Incredible Weekend Getaways for other Jain Temples near Hyderabad

September 6, 2018
Al Bastakiya: Down the winding walkways of Dubai’s Heritage

Before Dubai became the glitzy capital of the famously fashionable that it is today, it was once an arid land of Bedouins. A semi-nomadic people who traversed the desert with their herds of camel and goat, eternally in search of oases that would sustain their agriculture. Everything from the famed dates and coffee of Dubai to the cultural amusements of today, like camel racing and hunting, trace their origins back to these nomads that had settled in the oases of Hatta and Al Aweer.

And the one thing that has remained a constant through the centuries in Dubai’s history is its trade. It was trade that brought Dubai its fame, paved the way for its later riches and even decided where the city itself would come into being. On the banks of a creek.

Take an abra, the traditional wooden boat on this very creek where Dubai’s story began; from Diera to Bur Dubai, from the new to the old.

To Al Bastakiya Quarter or Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood.

History of Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood & Al Bastakiya

An Abra docked in the courtyard of Al Fahidi Fort, which houses The Dubai Museum today.

Built in the 1800s for settlers from the Bu Flasa tribe, when Dubai first became an independent political entity, the Al Fahidi area even today is home to the Ruler’s Court Mosque, the Al Fahidi Fort and the old residential houses. Only, these houses of the past have now been restored and converted to cafes and galleries, cool and quirky.

While this entire area in and around Al Fahidi is formally known as the Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood, the houses that were originally built by the traders from Bastak, Iran – and have now been restored – have come to be the Al Bastakiya Quarter.

Here, in Bastakiya, in the Al Fahidi Historical Neighbourhood, you can stroll through the lanes of history and be transported in time in those cobbled pathways, winding away between tightly packed buildings of ochre, the colour of the desert. These buildings are the Al Arish, the typical summer houses of the region, built with the signature wind tower made up of burlap pieces.

How to get to Bastakiya?

Along the winding walkways of Al Bastakiya

Al Bastakiya is just across the road from the Al Fahidi Fort (Dubai Museum), with its tell tale Abra docked in the courtyard. Walk down Al Fahidi street towards the creek keeping the fort to your left and you will come to Arabian Tea House. & sprawling complex housing this cafe is the Bastakiya Quarter.

Quiet and inconspicuous in the otherwise bustling Al Fahidi, the bazaar where local Indians flock to, this complex that is Bastakiya holds a myriad of interesting restored buildings for culture buffs and the artistically inclined.

NOTE: If you are taking a cab then Dubai Museum, Al Fahidi should do the trick. Otherwise simply take the Metro to the Al Fahidi Station and from there it is a 7-10 minutes walk.

What to See & Do in Bastakiya?

From galleries that double up as boutique hotels with just the few rooms to rent out, to those that bring together the specially abled to unleash their creative potential, every gallery here is also a café. There is much to discover here and one can easily spend the day just wandering through the maze of buildings and leafy boulevards, never knowing just what one might stumble upon next.

It is also in these very walkways that the aptly named, Dubai Art Fair, Sikka (Arabic for alleyway) happens every year around March.

Art Galleries

Art everywhere at Mawaheb, from the courtyard outside the villa to the terrace upstairs.

In the traditional Arabian villas of Bastakiya, there are many art galleries from the old and established ones like The Majilis Gallery to the newer, trendier ones like the XVA Gallery. There is also the Mawaheb, From Beautiful People Art Studio where art in both its artistic and functional interpretations is created by beautiful people indeed. For here people with special needs – ‘the determined ones‘ as they are now known since the directive by His Highness Sheikh Mohammad Bin Rashid Al Maktoum, the Ruler of Dubai – predominantly young adults, come together to discover and voice their creative ideas.

Museums

Inside the Coffee Museum

If it is a Coffee Museum or a Coin Museum now, it could be a Philately House next, which in great detail traces the evolution of postal stamps and postmarks from the Middle East. Or even a museum dedicated just to the local architecture and its restoration.

Cafés

The Cafe in the courtyard of XVA Gallery and Art Hotel

Arabian Tea House right next to the entrance to Al Bastakiya is like a landmark here. Easy to spot, the traditional Arab vibe draws you in; right from the crowded carpets that welcome you in through the low roof to the whiff of the typical Emirati breakfast tray of hummus and bread being prepared. And, as you begin walking in through the sikkas of the Bastakiya Quarter, the first vibrant place to greet you is the Make Art Cafe. Originally developed as a co-working space in another part of Dubai, it has since been reinvented as an Art Cafe here in Bastakiya. Then there are also the art galleries that brew just as good a coffee as they dish up art, like the XVA Gallery, Art Hotel & Cafe and the Mawaheb, From Beautiful People Art Studio.

Restaurants

For a sumptuous spread of Middle Eastern fare, end the day at Bastakiya Nights, in one of the many courtyards of Bastakiya facing the Dubai Creek. This place comes alive at night and transforms the Bastakiya Quarter into a romantic setting straight out of somewhere in the middle of the desert.

Sheikh Mohammed Centre of Cultural Understanding (SMCCU)

Looking into the Diwan Mosque (Rulers Court Mosque) in Al Bastakiya, by the Dubai Creek

Also in the Bastakiya quarter is the Sheikh Mohammed Centre of Cultural Understanding. Where one can wind down at the end of a day of walking, with a dose of culture served up with a side of delicious Arabic coffee and dates. Or those looking for a more leisurely deep dive into the Emirati culture can indulge in a local style breakfast or lunch here on prior appointment.

To book your cultural meal at SMCCU, Al Bastakiya: Click here.

NOTE: One can also club the cultural immersion program at SMCCU with a heritage walk and a visit to the Diwan Mosque or the Rulers Court Mosque. Visits to the Diwan Mosque along with a walking tour of Bastakiya are conducted on Tuesdays & Thursdays at 10:30 AM and on Saturdays & Sundays at 9AM, all around the year except during the holy month of Ramadan. This tour is for about 90 minutes.

Where to Stay in Bastakiya?

Orient Guest House

Hidden in one of the leafy corners of the Bastakiya alleyways, is a traditional two storey Arabian villa, complete with a Majlis (public meeting) lounge that is the tranquil Orient Guest House. The local style rooms in this boutique hotel are also easy on the pocket!

XVA Gallery, Art Hotel & Cafe

The XVA Hotel with its many courtyards and wind towers is the idyllic retreat for creators and artists looking for a restful haven. The café with its award winning vegetarian menu and the art on display in the corridors of this Persian home only add to the mood.

You can also choose to stay in Bur Dubai, a bustling residential and commercial neighbourhood minutes from Bastakiya.

Explorers Guide

Entrance Fee: Free. There is no fee to go into the Bastakiya Quarter, to wander through its alleyways or to explore any of its museums even.

Timings: The Art Galleries and Museums are open from 10AM to 6 PM. Most of the cafes are open right from 7AM (like the XVA Cafe) to 10PM (like the Arabian Tea House).

Nearby Places of Interest: Dubai Museum in Al Fahidi Fort
The Souks – Gold, Spice & Perfume
Al Shindagha Historic Neighbourhood

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May 21, 2018
Ammapalli Temple: Tollywood’s Favourite Shoot Location!
Ammapalli Temple. Long Long ago, before Lord Rama met Hanuman during the course of events set out in the Ramayana…Well, thats the time that the few Kondanda Rama Temples that there are, hark back to.

Five kilometres from the Shamshabad Bus Station is a quiet little village called Ammapalli. In this quite forgotten leafy corner of the city outskirts is a centuries old temple that has long been popular with movie makers and has yet eluded mainstream popularity.

The road leading to Ammapalli Temple

Believe it or not but over four hundred Telugu movies have been shot here! & a few Hindi and Tamil movies too. For there is a sentiment among the Tollywood fraternity that a movie with even one scene shot here at this temple, will surely have a successful run at the box office and for a hundred days at the least.

Did you know? This temple was extensively featured in the 2001 blockbuster Murari, the very same movie that launched actor Mahesh Babu’s career towards superstardom. The central theme of the movie revolves around an ancient temple and its powerful presiding goddess. Little surprise there then that this Seeta Ramachandra Swamy Temple in Ammapalli makes frequent appearances right from the opening credits to the very climax.

Locally known as the Ammapalli Temple, this is the Sri Seeta Ramachandra Swamy Temple in Ammapalli, Shamshabad. Spread over two hundred and fifty acres, it was built sometime in the 11th Century by the Eastern Chalukyas. Like most of the prominent temples dedicated to Lord Rama in our country, this thousand year old temple too marks the spot where he once stopped to rest during his journey in the historic-mythical Dandkaaranyam.

Tree lined roads, manicured lawns and clearly sectioned off sandy areas lead you from the archway to the wide parking ground right outside the main temple. Along the way there are two smaller temples dedicated to Lord Shiva and Hanuman, a couple of mandapams and abandoned looking structures and a beautiful step-well hidden in a grove of coconut trees.

If you love discovering beauty in little details, then this step-well is where you should start your exploration of the temple from. Corridors that start off in the Hindu style of pillared mandapams transition into Islamic arches as they go around enclosing the step-well. This was once the koneru where the Brahmostavams were held and people of all faiths would watch from these very corridors the on going festivities.

Step Well on the grounds of the temple

Sri Rama Navami is celebrated in a big way here and the Seetarama Kalyanam is attended by thousands of people annually. As you walk along the grounds, it becomes evident that the Kalyanam has been but an age old tradition of the temple. For most of the structures on the grounds outside the main temple complex are built to serve but this one purpose. From the two storeyed kalyana mandapam to the edurukolla mandapam and even the Nagaar Khana, were the musicians would be seated to play the wedding tunes, they are all laid out for this specific purpose.

Set against these structures is the main temple complex entered through a Gali Gopuram of ninety feet. Like every other aspect of this temple, the architecture of this too is strikingly unique with its colourful Seshashayee Vishnu carved into an otherwise drab brown tower. Then there is the bright white prahari or the boundary wall, which doubles up as a two storeyed corridor with benches on the upper level built into it. To serve as yet another viewing gallery undoubtedly.

For all its splendour though, what stands out the most about the Amapalli temple are the ekashila (single stone) idols and the story behind them. These are doubly unique in the fact that, firstly, this style of carving the deity with the surrounding makaram toranam from a single stone was prevalent only for a brief period of time in history making them rare and invaluable today. Secondly, they date back to a time when Lord Rama hadn’t yet met Hanuman, making this a Kodanda Rama temple, where Lord Rama is depicted devoid of a bow and a Hanuman next to him.

And adding to the intrigue is the Abhaya Anjaneya sculpted into the dwaja stambham (pillar) opposite the inner sanctum. On command from Lord Rama, he, Hanuman is said to fulfil the wishes of those devotees who seek it there and this is why when you go here to pray do not block the view between them!
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Explorers Guide

Route: Take the PVNR Expressway from the city. Around 8 kilometres before the Rajiv Gandhi International Airport, take the right adjoining the Shamshabad Bus Station. Another 5 kilometres on this straight road and you will find an archway on your left, leading to the Sri Seeta Rama Chandra Swamy Temple .
Don’t Miss: Every month on the day that falls under Lord Rama’s birth star, Punarvasu, a Seeta Rama Kalyanam is held here in the morning. Followed by a Pallaki Seva and lunch.

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Read More on Temples in Hyderabad:

North meets South in Sitaram Bagh

Read on Other Ramayana Places:

A Song of Stone: Dichpally Ramalayam
March 3, 2018
Alampur: South India’s City of Moksh

The temple town of Alampur in the Mahbubnagar district of Telangana is renowned for its Ashtadasa Shakti Peetham, the Jogulamba Temple.

But there is more to this sleepy little town that is only a few hours from Hyderabad. It is believed to be the Western gateway to Srisailam, one of the important pilgrimage centres for Shaivites (Shiva believers) in the country.

Locals say that there are so many Shiva Lingams everywhere, in and around Alampur only waiting to be found that this little town is known as Dakshina Kasi, implying it is South India’s very own Benaras/Varanasi/Kasi, the abode of Lord Shiva and the Hindus’ City of Moksh (salvation).

Navabramha Temple Complex & Jogulamba

Nine for Navabramhas, nine forms of Lord Shiva.

Legend has it that a 6^th century saint, Rasa Siddha had created a tantric Siddha Rasarnavam here at the Navabramha temples, built by the then Chalukya king, Pulakesi II. Using which, he could create gold out of mercury just by adding a few herbs. It is after this tool of alchemy – religious mysticism, that the nine deities here are named.

It is in this Navabramha Temple Complex, that the Jogulamba Temple is situated. One of the eighteen major Shakti Peethams, as listed by Adi Shankaracharya.

Here the goddess takes her Roudra Roopam or the form of fury. Which is why there is a moat around the main shrine, to cool the atmosphere and make it easier for us mere mortals to pray to this ‘Mother of Yogis’, they say.

So, both the principal deities of this temple come power packed with legends and beliefs! It is little wonder then that Alampur is a popular destination for a lot of Hindu pilgrims in Telangana.

But what is different here is that, this temple complex stands a stoic witness to a lot of mankind’s history.

For within its original walls, amidst all the temples, sits a dargah (grave/shrine of a religious figure or saint).

Speaking volumes of a time when not just this temple was invaded by intolerant rulers. The Bahamani sultans of the 14^th century, in this case.

Sangameswara Temple

Every temple in this town seems to some how signify the importance of the holy confluence of the rivers Krishna and Tungabadhra. To begin with, Alampur itself gets the monicker ‘Navabramha Theertham’ from this. the most prominent one, the Navabramha Temple Complex built on the banks of Tungabadhra in the 7^th century, together with the word ‘theertham’ meaning holy water give this town the name . Yet another temple in Alampur hinting at the holy confluence or Sangam is the Sangameswara Temple.

Did you know?
The Sangameswara Temple was moved stone for stone from the banks of the river to where it is now, during the construction of the Srisailam Dam in the 1970s.

This temple comes next only in terms of popularity for it is just as beautiful as the first if not even more striking in its stoic solitude. This only leaves us to wonder just how important were these rivers once, spiritually!

Papanasi Group of Temples

Save the best for the last and use Google Maps to take you to the Papanasi Group of Temples next. Tucked away, just around the corner from the main town of Alampur, is this cluster of 24 temples, stunningly elegant in their simple design.

Majority of these shrines are dedicated to Lord Shiva – yet again – housing Lingams in numerous forms.

Explorers Guide

Distance from Hyderabad: 215 kilometres
Trip Duration: Full Day
Route: Alampur is a three hour drive along the Hyderabad-Bangalore Highway. One can either go via the Outer Ring Road or the Airport. To save on time, plan your day trip so that you are not stuck in the city traffic during peak hours.
Tourist Info: The Jogulamba Temple in Alampur is open from 7 am to 5:30 pm, and is closed for an hour during the day between 1pm to 2pm. It is advisable, though not mandatory, for women to dress in traditional Indian clothes like a salwar kameez or a saree.
Remember: The Jogulamba temple closes early, so make sure to visit here first. It is also customary to take along a saree and bangles as an offering to the Mother Goddess.

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Read More on Temples in Telangana:

Of Rocks & Hidden Temples: Armoor
A Song of Stone: Dichpally Ramalayam
Town of Hymns: Manthani
Lost in Time: Nagunur Ruins

February 5, 2018
A Heritage Walk through The Walled City of Udaipur

Think Rajasthan and immediately pops into your head a picture of undulating waves of sand shimmering golden in the sun and a row of women all but hidden in their bright twirling lehengas and odhanis, walking away with pots of water on their head as thick silver anklets catch the sun on a hot windy afternoon.

But, you couldn’t be more wrong with Udaipur. Touted to be India’s most romantic city, it sits hidden between lush green hills endlessly stretching away in every direction.

To get a real feel of Udaipur though and its old world charm, a heritage walk along the winding thoroughfares of its walled city is what you need.

Choc-a-bloc with beautiful marble palaces, ancient temples, bright colourful havelis with facades of intricate jharokas, there is a temple at every turn and every house along the way has walls adorned with frescos in the miniature painting style of the region.

Udaipur’s old city is divided into sections by huge ornate gates along these erstwhile rampart walls that are locally known as pols. Like Hathi Pol or Elephant Gate which leads you from the main street, on to the grandiose City Palace. There are boards everywhere directing you to the next point of interest on the walk, be it a ghat, a haveli, a palace or even a museum.

Of these, the Gangaur Ghat with its imposing gateway and stunning Jagdish Mandir, made entirely in white marble are the most striking. The city palace is too, in its flamboyance.

Bhattiyani Chouhatta

If one follows the route charted by the Udaipur Nagar Nigam, the city’s municipal council, then Bhattiyani Chouhatta is the starting point. An area within the walled city, the original fortified city from 450 years ago.

Here is where most of the havelis, temples and points of interest along this heritage walk are. Billboards all across the dusty crooked lanes in the old city announce backpacker friendly budget hotels, yoga and Indian cooking classes and rooftop cafes that proclaim views of the famously beautiful Lake Pichola.

Lake Pichola

Everything Udaipur, is in and around this lake, the Lake Pichola. The Aravallis, the gardens, palaces, havelis and temples.

The walk leads you through hidden alleyways, past traditional Rajasthani homes and the numerous temples and out on to the banks of the Pichola.

Prominent on the lake are Jag Niwas and Jag Mandir. While the best known of these is the Taj Lake Palace or Jag Niwas, as it was called by Maharana Jagat Singh II, whose pleasure palace it was in the 1700s. It is the Jag Mandir Island Palace that stands out, with its marble courtyard and ornate elephants jutting out into the water from every corner. It was here that Shah Jahan was given refuge by the Maharana of Mewar, Raja Karan Singh in 1623.

Gangaur Ghat

A ghat dedicated to one of the most important local festivals of Rajasthan, the Gangaur Festival. An 18 day festival celebrated by the women of Mewar in honour of the Goddess Gauri and her consort Lord Shiva (Gana). This ghat on the Lake Pichola serves as the location for the culmination of the Gangaur festivities and as the end point for the procession that begins from the City Palace.

Though the Gangaur Ghat sees the most crowds during this festival that celebrates women, it remains a popular landmark and is dearly loved by the locals even otherwise during the rest of the year.

Bagore ki Haveli

Located on the other side of Gangaur Ghat, this quirky museum was once a haveli. An eighteenth century haveli of over a hundred rooms, it was built by the then prime minister of Mewar in the classic style of the day.

Today it houses period costumes and photographs and hosts daily folk music & dance shows intended to be an evocative display of the Mewar culture.

Not to be missed here are the world’s largest turban and the Queens Chambers intricately done up entirely in mirrors.

Jagdish Temple

A lyrical work of carving in three storeys of white marble, the Jagdish Temple right in the heart of Udaipur’s old city is where all the roads converge. Accessed by a steep flight of stairs, this temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu comes as a complete surprise once you reach its main courtyard, flanked by the massive marble elephants.

Inspite of the buildings crowding around it, you will want to stay a while, as you are still doing the mandated parikrama (circumambulation) of the temple, stopping all the while to pay homage at the four smaller shrines dedicated to the Lords Ganesha, Shiva, Surya and the Goddess Shakti. For the entire temple is covered in carvings so intricate and interesting, that you are transfixed.

City Palace

The City Palace, Rajasthan’s biggest palace is imposing in its grandeur to say the least.

A series of palaces built over a period of four hundred years, as soon you enter through the Bari Pol or the Great Gate, you are greeted by huge arches. This was where massive weighing scales once stood, to measure out the ruling Maharana’s weight in gold – to be given away to the citizens of Mewar – on his birthday.

From these to the elephant parking bays just outside the entrance, which now serve as a look out point for idyllic views of the city set against the Aravalli ranges, everything about this palace complex is beautiful.

Built in a combination of Rajput and Mughal style of architecture typical of the era, a portion of the City Palace is open to the public and ranks number one on the list of things to see when in Udaipur.

Read Next: 24 Hours in Jaipur

January 19, 2018
7 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 2017

It is that time of the year again. When I look back at my year and see what is the one thing that I set out to do at the beginning of the year and actually did.

So, here I am proudly proclaiming that I did visit 7 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in India in 2017.

1. Group of Monuments at Mahabalipuram

2. The Valley of Flowers National Park

Read: In Pictures: The Valley of Flowers

3. Hills Forts of Rajasthan – Amer Fort

4. Jantar Mantar, Jaipur

Read: 24 Hours in Jaipur

5. Sun Temple, Konark

6. Group of Monuments at Pattadakal

7. Group of Monuments at Hampi

PS: I had set my target at 7 but I knew I could only visit 5. Like with anyone with travel plans, one is always majorly dependant on budgets and life in general. But then fate conspired and the universe showed a way (however clichéd that may sound!). I was selected to shoot at the Pushkar Fair with none other than Mr.Raghu Rai himself and we could choose to join him either from Delhi or from Jaipur, along the way to Pushkar. And here I am with that wished for number. 7 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 2017.

PSS: Even a year of missed opportunities can have a happy ending. All negativity comes with a counter balancing positive energy.

Wishing you all a very Happy New Year, 2018. Love & Light. ??

Read Next: Travel Wishlist: 25 Things To Do in India in 2018

December 31, 2017
Great Living Chola Temples – Vol II: Gangaikonda Cholapuram

Second on UNESCO’s list of The Great Living Chola Temples, is the Brihadeeswara Temple at Gangaikonda Cholapuram.

In a tiny village lost in time, is this 982 year old temple. This Brihadeeswara Temple too is built on the same lines as the Big Temple in Thanjavur, complete with a massive stone sculpture of Nandi facing the main shrine. Upon the death of Rajaraja I the capital was shifted from Thanjavur to Gangaikonda Cholapuram and there came about this smaller version of the original Brihadeeswara Temple.

This temple complex isn’t merely structurally beautiful. It is also tranquil. Owing not just to its gentler architecture but also probably to it’s secluded location.

After driving around all morning and noon in the summer heat of Tamil Nadu, it was evening by the time we got here.

& what with the setting sun deciding to play peek-a-boo from behind the looming rain clouds, an all pervading sense of peace descended over me, as I took my time exploring, strolling around the expansive, almost deserted grounds of the temple.

The bronze sculptures here are said to be priceless specimens of Chola art, but it was the Simhakeni or The Lion Well, that I found singularly intriguing.

Explorers Guide

Trip Duration: Day Trip
Getting There: Road Trip from Thanjavur.
Route: Thanjavur – Darasuram – Gangaikonda Cholapuram -Thanjavur
(183 Kilometres)
Distance from Thanjavur to Darasuram: 72 Kilometres
Distance from Darasuram to Gangaikonda Cholapuram: 39 Kilometres
Distance from Gangaikonda Cholapuram to Thanjavur: 72 Kilometres

Read First: The Great Living Chola Temples: Vol I

Other Temples in Tamil Nadu:

Rockfort Temple, Trichy

September 21, 2017
Streets of Pondicherry – Part II: Architecture

They say if you can’t afford a ticket to Europe, travel to Pondicherry instead.

Stroll through the white part of town and be transported in time and place to a laid back French town. Or just wander the streets to absorb the distinctive Franco-Tamil culture of the place.

This small seaside town has a lot to offer for those who are looking for a leisurely laid-back holiday.

There is always coffee and croissants to intersperse your endless explorations with. For, Puducherry is blessed with both – cafes & heritage – in abundance!

Once an important port of call and a very prominent fortified town, as it changed hands, it was razed to ground and its ramparts flattened to what are today the tree lined boulevards of Pondicherry.

Laid out in a grid, the town is divided into the French and Tamil quarters by a storm water canal.

Both these quarters are so distinctive that you can tell which part of town you are in just from colour and style of the houses that go from classical European architecture to vernacular Tamil in a step.

As a lingering shadow of its European past follows you along its every street or rue as it known here, the historical richness of this town comes to life. In its art & architecture.

So what could possibly be a better way to discover this quaint little town than via Heritage Walks and Cycle Tours!

My first day in Pondicherry, I walked 9.6 kilometres to be exact. Discovering urban street art and restored heritage bungalows.

Besides, in this town of neat little blocks, self reliance comes easy to a girl, who just wants to explore, camera in hand.

I have been to Pondicherry thrice. & my longing for it only gets the stronger. :)

PS: INTACH or The Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage has been working with the Government of Pondicherry and its public to conserve and restore the unprotected architectural heritage and townscape of Pondicherry. Almost all of the heritage buildings you see today have been brought back to life by them. Even the rocks to tame the sea on the famous promenade were by them.

They conduct heritage walks in the white town every morning and evening. Ending on the promenade, this hour long walk is a perfect way to to get to the beach just in time for dusk.

Read First: Streets of Pondicherry – Part I: Art

July 12, 2017
Armoor: Of Rocks and Hidden Temples

In Nizamabad, is a temple. Though not quite as legendary as the Dichpally Ramalayam, but just as historic. Popularly known as Armoor Siddula Gutta, this is the Navanatha Siddheswara Temple and a series of cave temples inside the rock formations of Armoor.

Armoor Rock Formations

As you drive along the highway from Nizamabad to Armoor, you will go past a long stretch of hills that look like they were made by someone who has artistically and quite laboriously piled up boulders to form them. These are the Armoor Rock Formations. Naturally weathered rocks crafted by mother nature for over millions of years. They are so distinctively striking that they are but a natural stopover for anyone driving that way and rightly so.

Sitting in a cave somewhere in those rocks is the Navantha Siddula Gutta, gutta for cave and Navanatha Siddhas for the sages who are believed to still reside in them.

Armoor Siddula Gutta

Fifteen years ago a ghat road was built through the rock formation, leading straight to Siddulagutta. There is also a walkway from the Gol Bungalow for pilgrims wishing to do the climb up to the temple by foot.

Inside these caves is a Shiva Temple, where the Shiva Lingam is said to be swaymbhu or self-manifested. It is said that the lingam here has always been worshipped by devotees, since the Tretayuga. That is the second age of mankind, in Hinduism! We are currently in the fourth.

The entrance to this cave temple is a door that is barely three feet. Once you crouch through it, the cave opens up and skylight filters in. You walk along in the designated route through the caves and you will come across many little temples in interconnected passageways. Even one dedicated to the Goddess Durga.

Just outside the exit point of this narrow cave is a Ramalayam and the temple tank, Jeeva Koneru. Legend has it that during the construction of the temple, when this tank was dug, it failed to well up with water. So, Rampriyadas Maharaj, the person who built the temple took up a tapasaya, that lasted forty-one days. At the end of which Lord Rama himself came to him in a dream and the water in this is believed to have been blessed with curative powers. Making the armoor siddula gutta popular amongst pilgrims undertaking the journey to be healed.

Otherwise quiet and forgotten, the temple tends to get crowded on the festival of Sri Rama Navami. Work is currently underway to build facilities to accommodate these devotees and also other temples around it on the flat ground between the rocks.

Beyond the Cave Temples

Further up the rocks, the summit flattens out into a breezy plateau. The village of Armoor with its houses of redbrick roofs and the setting sun glinting off the black rocks lend the landscape such beauty, that it has actually been the location for many a movie shoot.

Just about perfect for that evening picnic.

Explorers Guide

Distance from Hyderabad: 184 Kilometres
Trip Duration: Day Trip
Getting There: Armoor is around 37 kilometres from the town of Nizamabad, along the intersection of NH7 and NH16.
Other Places of Interest: Pochampadu Dam (Sri Rama Sagar Project)
30 kilometres from here this dam on the Godavari River is widely accepted to be the lifeline of Northern Telangana. It is quite a sight to behold when its forty-two floodgates are open.

Read More on Temples in Telangana

Town of Hymns: Manthani
Lost in Time: Nagunur Ruins
South India’s City of Moksh: Alampur
A Song of Stone: Dichpally Ramalayam

July 1, 2017
North meets South in Sitaram Bagh

Tucked away in a quiet corner of the old city of Hyderabad is the Sitaram Bagh Temple. Built by a banker Mr. Puranmal Ganeriwal in 1832, this centuries old Shri Sitaram Mandir is a sprawling complex of temples and beautiful airy courtyards spread over twenty five acres.

From the main entrance and its imposing facade to the labyrinth of quadrangle courtyards leading you on to endless discoveries, this peaceful temple is a visual treat. Built in a style that is exquisitely distinctive, it combines the North and South Indian styles of architecture with the European.

Back in the day, Seth Puranmal acquired land in what was then the village of Mallapally, in the outskirts of Hyderabad, laid out an expansive garden (bagh) and built a temple for Sitaramji. Thus bestowing on this temple, the moniker Sitaram Bagh.

This stretch of land was also the site for a Qutb Shahi Mosque, which stands till today, albeit separated from the temple by a concrete wall. Also on this expanse is an archaic step well that was connected via subterranean ducts to a well in the mosque. It is around this step well that the various structures of the temple complex, including a gaushala, ved pathshala and houses for the Bramhin families were constructed.

This entire compound is now a protected monument by the Archaeological Survey of India.

As you enter the main temple, intricately painted doors, imposing archways and massive colour blocked doors take you through a series of courtyards.

Each one opening out to a mandapa, a temple or to just an open-to-sky pavilion enclosed in European style terraces adorned with Rajasthani style jharokas.

If one courtyard boasts of a South Indian mandapa adorned with the Dasavataras carved in stone, the very next one will surprise you with a mandapa of European columns and fading frescos.

Even the two main temples alternate in their styles. While the Sitaramji Mandir is built in the North Indian style, with an entrance reminiscent of a palace in Rajasthan, the Varadarajaji Mandir is built in the typical Dravidian architecture style of South India.

The idols of the main deities are in marble, staying true to the prevailing theme of Rajasthani. Little surprise then that the Sitarambagh temple is popular with the local Marwaris in and around the old city.

The Hanuman Mandir though, sitting away from the maze of the courtyards and almost too close to the boundary wall of the complex is a little cut off from both the main temple and its old world charm.

It wasn’t until renovations began around 2015, that people even knew just how old or huge the stone idol of Hanumanji was. Only once the twelve inch sindhoor chola on the sculpture was taken off did they realise that the Hanuman idol was in fact burrowed knee deep in earth. The eight feet by five feet statue was then dug out and reinstated, complete with a new South Indian style Gopuram. What is distinctive about this addition though is that, facing the four directions are Abhay Hanuman, Veer Hanuman, Bhakt Hanuman and the Das Mudra. All of them typically North Indian on a South Indian style shikhar.

Every turn that you take in this grand layout, will only reinforce in you the awe that you experience at how beautifully North meets South in this temple.

Explorers Guide

Timings: 5.30 – 11.30 am & 5 – 8 pm

Remember: Dress conservatively. For though not really crowded like the other temples in the city, the management including even the security of the temple complex are quite orthodox in their ways. They double check to ascertain that you are indeed a Hindu before you are even allowed to wander into the outer courtyard of the temple!

Don’t Miss: The baoli (step-well). It is outside the main Sitaram Mandir and fenced off, making it in a way, quite easy to miss unless you go looking for it. Go straight along the path to the Hanuman temple, right across from the main entrance and you will find it to your left.

PS: The famous Purana Rangji Mandir in Pushkar was also built by the same Mr. Generiwal in the year 1844. Yet again, in the same unique combination of the South Indian Dravidian style and the North Indian Rajasthani Vaastukala.

May 24, 2017
Town of Hymns: Manthani

Named after a Khiledar under the reign of Sikandar Jha during 1803 to 1823, Syed Karimuddin, Karimnagar is one district in Telangana, which has ancient places seeped in historic importance to both Hindus and Buddhists alike. The most popular amongst these is Manthani.

Home to the ruins of a Gautameswara Temple, Manthani is a timeless village from an era gone by.

On the banks of the river Godavari, it had once flourished as the seat of Vedic learning. Also referred to as Mantrapuri or The Town of Hymns it gets its name from the Sanskrit word Mantra Kutam, meaning House of Mantras.

It is also popularly believed that Manthani is home to a thousand Bramhin families, which is why it is also called the Sahasra Brahamana Gadapa i.e. a Thousand Brahmin’s Threshold. Little surprise then that though the temple in Manthani is in ruins today, overrun with a patchwork of undergrowth that is a brilliant-hued green, the town continues to be culturally significant for Hindus.

Work is underway to put back the beautiful stone temple of Manthani to how it once stood. Meanwhile there is a new, fully functional temple on the premises.

Explorers Guide

Getting There: The distance from Hyderabad to Karimnagar is around 164 kilometres, but if you take the NH44 via Medchal you will reach the town in less than two hours. Manthani is a further 64 kilometres from here.
Route: Once on the road by the village, ask around and get to the ‘temple on the banks of Godavari’. It can get a little tricky, because this one is not on Google Maps.
Best Time to Visit: In the rains.

Read Next: Lost in Time: Nagunur Ruins

Read More on Temples in Telangana:

Of Rocks and Hidden Temples: Armoor
A Song of Stone: Dichpally Ramalayam
South India’s City of Moksh: Alampur

April 26, 2017
Nagunur Ruins: Lost in Time

Less than three hours from Hyderabad, the district of Karimnagar in Telangana is peppered with numerous lesser-known forts and ancient ruins, making it the ideal day trip destination. Not yet over run with tourists, here you can happily explore at your own pace.

Home to a cluster of Kalyana and Kakatiya temple ruins, Nagunur is one such village in Karimnagar. Once the centre of the Kakatiya Empire, it is today but a tiny village lost in time. With these temples at its heart, it does not take but more than ten minutes to traverse through this entire village!

The most significant among these temples – from the 12^th century – is the Trikuta Temple built by the Chalukyas of Kalyani.

Though constructed in the same style as the Manthani temple, it is in much better shape today, with the three shrines dedicated to Lord Shiva showing evidence of continuing worship.

Explorers Guide

Getting There: Nagunur is 260 kilometers from Hyderabad and the drive via NH44 through Outer Ring Road will take around three and a half hours.
Best Time to Visit: Monsoons. With the rain clouds as a backdrop, these ancient temples look serenely beautiful.

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Read More on Temples in Telangana

Town of Hymns: Manthani
Of Rocks & Hidden Temples: Armoor
South India’s City of Moksh: Alampur
A Song of Stone: Dichpally Ramalayam

April 12, 2017
From a billion years ago.

Thwack. Down came the elephant’s trunk on my head, in a gesture of blessing. I was surprised at how gentle it was, gentle giants indeed.

We were in Trichy, Tamil Nadu to attend a wedding at our family friends’ home and the temple elephant was here to bless the newly weds, to flag off their journey together on an auspicious note. Even though I grew up in a traditional South Indian family this was completely unexpected. After all, it isn’t everyday that a majestic elephant walks into a wedding!

But, knowing where I was, it shouldn’t have come as a surprise.

Amongst the many interpretations of how this town got its name, one that particularly sticks in this case is that, Tiruchirapalli could have come from Tiruchinnapalli, which when broken down means Holy Little Town. Or even Tirussilapalli, meaning Holy Rock Town. Which brings us to the Rockfort Temple.

Tiruchirapalli or Trichy as one familiarly calls it, has always been an important religious centre for the Hindus with many a prolific and ancient temple peppered around town. From the more famous Ranganatha Swamy temple of Srirangam to the Rockfort Temple, which has come to be a symbol of this temple town.

I am yet to see a temple so striking and haughty in its simplicity, as this one. Sitting on a 272 feet rock, right in the centre of Trichy, it draws your gaze in, from wherever in the city you are, like a pivot.

So, here is where we went first, this intriguing fort-temple on the rock.

As we wound our way through the busy bazaar at the foot of the rock, I really did not know what to expect. There were the usual lines of people going about their prayers – visible from the busy street – in the Ganesh Temple which was right there. But did Ucchi Pillayar Kovil not mean Ganesh temple at the top, literally?

It was then that our guide explained to us that there are two rock cut temples in the fort, the lower and upper cave temples.

Having paid our respects at the Manikka Vinayakar Temple, the lower cave temple, we began the steep climb of over 350 steps through the ancient rock that dates back to over a billion years ago.

Of the many cave temples that we passed by, cut into this monolithic rock, the oldest was built by the Pallavas in 580 AD.

The biggest in this complex though is the Thayumana Swamy Temple dedicated to Lord Shiva and his consort Goddess Parvathi, spanning a length of two stories in a regular building.

Stunning though it was, right from its architecture to the colourful murals painted on the walls of the cave, it is the Ganesh temple sitting right at the summit that takes your breath away.

As you come out of the caves and struggle to climb up the sheer rock face to reach this temple, you are bound to pause for breath and that is when you realise just how picturesque the panoramas that it offers of the city look.

We did too.

As the breeze blew cool in my face I caught my first glimpse of Srirangam, from inside the Ucchi Pillayar Kovil.

Explorers Guide

Distance from Chennai: 335 kilometers
Trip Duration: Weekend
Getting There: Sitting right in the center of Tamil Nadu, Trichy can be reached by road from Chennai in 6 hours. There are also regular flights from Chennai to Trichy.

Read More on Temples in Tamil Nadu:

The Great Living Chola Temples: Vol I
The Great Living Chola Temples: Vol II

March 12, 2017
Medak: A Trinity of Faiths & more

Everyone in Hyderabad has heard of the Medak Church and if you grew up in this city it is highly likely that you would have even gone there on a school trip. It is after all the largest diocese in all of Asia and is believed to be second only to the Vatican, even across the globe!

What started off as a project of true Christian compassion in 1914, to mitigate the suffering of people during the three-year famine that had hit Medak then, has brought to this district its most famous landmark. It was the missionary Rev. Charles Walker Posnett’s idea, to create employment rather than run a free kitchen and this massive church built in the Gothic Revival style that took 10 years to complete did achieve this objective.

Notwithstanding the fact that the church gained its most renown for its beautiful stained glass windows – which do leave one spellbound as the sunlight filters through them into the inner sanctum of the cathedral – its most striking feature remains the 175 feet bell tower.

There is more to this sleepy little town though. Telangana’s most celebrated festival, Bathukamma is performed on a large scale here. Recognised as the symbol of the state’s cultural identity, this nine-day festival is celebrated in honour of the Hindu Goddess Gauri. Yet another festival unique to this region is Peerla Panduga. It is but Muharram, only celebrated by both Hindus and Muslims alike across the Sufi Ashurkhanas here.

& with the Tourism Department‘s Heritage Hotel at the Medak Fort one can enjoy the art of slow travel right here, only an hour and half’s drive away.

The Medak Fort is a testimony to the history of this district. Strategically located on a hill, this fort is known to have exploited the natural topography of the area in creating an invincible defence around itself, standing witness to Medak’s significance during the reign of the Kakatiyas.

This summit today offers one gorgeous views of the surrounding city.

The view from the fort is not be missed. For it surely is an intriguing sight to see a city grow and flourish around Trinity Diagonal – a Mosque, a Temple and the Church all perfectly aligned in a diagonal cutting across Medak.

Built around the 12^th century, the Medak Fort was once a command outpost for the Kakatiya, Bahamani and Qutb Shahi dynasties and is believed to have set the scene for many a battle for over five centuries.

Not much remains of the fort now, except for its three entrances – Prathama Dwaram (first entrance), Simha Dwaram (lion entrance) and Gaja Dwaram (elephant entrance). These are striking in their architecture and as their names suggest, are adorned with snarling lion heads and majestic elephants. Also standing untouched by time on the main entrance is the Ganda Bherundam, a double-headed eagle with an elephant in its talons. This mythical bird, an ancient symbol of royalty and the great Vijayanagar Empire’s insignia has since been incorporated into the present day Karnataka State’s emblem. One is then left to wonder if it isn’t but a remnant of the symbolic consolidation of the reigning dynasties of the era.

So, while planning your next road trip from Hyderabad don’t just strike Medak off your list, for there is a lot more to this district-town than just its record holding Church.

Explorers Guide

Distance from Hyderabad: 95 Kilometers
Trip Duration: Half Day – Weekend
Extend your Road Trip: Drive on to Pocharam
Route: Take the NH44 via Kompally to get to Medak.
Stop By: The road to Medak goes through the Narsapur Forest Range and you will find a horde of monkeys lined up all along the road. So don’t forget to carry some bananas to feed these guys. They are so accustomed to this that the minute you slow your car they will stand up and look into your window to see what snacks you have got them!

January 31, 2017
Dichpally Ramalayam: A Song of Stone

One of the oldest and the most renowned temple in Nizamabad is the Ramalayam in Dichpally. This 14th century temple dedicated to the Ram Avtaar of Lord Vishnu is also called the Indhoor Khajuraho and Khilla Ramalayam.

Sitting on a hillock the Dichpally Ramalayam offers one, sweeping views of the quaint little town of Dichpally and is undoubtedly a worthy vantage point to enjoy the early morning breeze.

This also makes it a picturesque location for taking panoramic shots, with an almost submerged ancient mandapam just about visible in a clear lake on one side and little brick houses with red roofs lined along its bank on the other.

While steps up the hillock lead you through an entrance typical of a fort complete with a fortification wall all around the temple grounds, which is probably why the locals now call this temple Khilla Ramalayam.

Considered to be a fine example of the Kakatiya’s architectural splendour, this stone structure of black and white basalt has sculptures on its pillars that are reminiscent of the ones on the famous Khajuraho temples, bestowing on it the moniker of Indhoor Khajuraho, indicative of a time when Nizamabad was Indhoor, named so after a Rashtrakuta King.

These carvings based on Vatsayana’s Kamasutra were so remarkable that even the name of this town traces its origins to it. These stone sculptures were called ‘Gicchu Bommalu’ by the villagers of that time, meaning pictures of Gicchu, the Sanskrit word for romance and beauty. Over time the village of gicchu, Gicchu Palle came to be Dichpally.

In the 13th century when Ala Ud Din Khilji conquered Nizamabad, there began a trend where Hindu temples were not allowed to be built, so did the construction of this temple stop midway and it was only many years later that the idols of Ram, Sita and Hanuman were installed here. The temple as you see it today was only complete in 1949 when steps leading up the hillock and a subway connecting it to another popular temple in Nizamabad were built under the stewardship of Gajavada Chinnaya.

Legend has it that in the Tretayuga, when right after meeting Hanuman for the first time, Lord Ram was on his way to wage war on Ravan, he stopped here on this hill and stayed a fortnight and it is to mark this that a Ramalayam was built here.

Explorers Guide

Distance from Hyderabad: 160 Kilometers
Trip Duration: Half Day
Route: Take the NH44 from Hyderabad to Nizamabad. Around 15 kilometers before you reach the town of Nizamabad get off the NH7 to reach Dichpally.
Getting There: The Ramalayam is the biggest and most popular place in town and the wider roads in town leading here are an evidence to that. Follow the sign posts and soon you will spot the ‘temple on the hillock’.

Read Next: Of Rocks and Hidden Temples: Armoor

Read More on Other Ramayana Places:

Ammapalli: Tollywood’s Favourite Temple!

November 23, 2016
Bidar: The City of Whispering Tombs

Of the 61 listed Monuments of Bidar, 30 are tombs. Little wonder then that Bidar is known as The City of Whispering Tombs!

135 Kms from Hyderabad, just across the state border in Karnataka is Bidar. If you love visiting places of historic significance and can’t get enough of architecture, this is one road trip that you must make from the city.

The most prominent landmark of this city – which dates back to the third century BC – is the Bidar Fort. It was built by the first sultan of the Bahamani Dynasty, Ala Ud Din Bahaman Shah when he set up his capital and 4Kms from here is the final resting place of the Bahamani Sultans. No visit to Bidar is complete without a trip to these majestic structures located in Ashtur, The Bahamani Tombs. Some of them are in a state of disrepair today, but even these crumbling mausoleums stand a beautiful testament to the art of an era gone by.

En route to Ashtur just before you get to the Tombs, on to the left is yet another idyllic setting to rest for eternity, the expansive and peaceful resting place of Hazrat Khalil Ullah, a popular religious preceptor of the time. Known as the Chaukhandi, this octagonal structure is beautiful in its simplicity and clean lines.

July 15, 2016
Poetry in Pink

Spread over a 1300 acre sprawling campus and peopled with elegant old buildings is the Osmania University in Hyderabad. The seventh oldest university in the country was brought into existence by the seventh Nizam of Hyderabad in 1918.

This beautifully green campus is so vast that its roads have long come to become regular thoroughfares in the city. So much so that, one does not even know just how many buildings are scattered around here and does not even spare more than a glance. That too when the names on the buildings get you thinking as to all the obscure possible disciplines of formal education and research available!

So it wasn’t till I actually stood under the Arts College Building one Sunday morning after I had decided to photograph it, did I realise just how smartly and tastefully this graceful old building has been designed.

Born from a farman (Royal Charter) by Nawab Osman Ali Khan, this university’s buildings were planned by Mr. Jasper, a Belgian architect, who was “found” by an expert panel of architects and engineers who had toured through Europe, America, Japan, Egypt and Turkey in the quest.

It is of little surprise then that the centre piece of this spread, the Arts College is but Poetry in Pink.

This Heritage Building of Pink Granite, which took 5 years to construct, was officially inaugurated in 1939.

Read Next: The Lost Pump House

April 16, 2016
The Age of Colonialism

This is my first post yet from the city where my parents grew up. :)

To me, Visakhapatnam has always only been a ‘colonial town’. So, when we were there for a day visiting my grandmother I did not want to let an opportunity go by, however small, of exploring, discovering and documenting at least a little of this beautiful, laid back city.

& as we strolled along the winding walkways of Waltair Club, I could almost picture an older, more settled me spending many a pleasant, relaxed evening here. (day dreaming!)

The fact that the club was the first to introduce electricity to Vizag, house it’s first dispensary and boast of the only telephone in town stands testimony to it’s ‘colonialism’.

Whatever it’s history may be, it still is a cool oasis of serenity in the hot and humid Vizag.

The colonial style bungalows, those grey stone walls, the clean meandering roads and the lush greenery of even the old old trees only add to the still and calm of this club established by the British way back in 1883.

March 27, 2016
Golconda Fort: Through The Ages

The Golconda Fort is a testament to the history of Hyderabad and this region.

Originally a fort of the Kakatiyas, it went through the Bahamanis to the Qutub Shahi Kings, who made it their capital. From the earlier peacock and griffin carvings to the later fort walls with its numerous bastions and battlements bear evidence to this fact.

Anyone who has lived in Hyderabad long enough will tell you how important this confluence of Hindu and Muslim cultures has been in shaping not just the city but even its distinctive language! Hyderabadi as it is called (a mixture of Urdu & Hindi) even extends its influence to the local Telangana dialect of Telugu giving it it’s distinctive twist.

Built on a hillock 400 feet high, The Golconda Fort derives its name from the Telugu word ‘Golla Konda’ meaning Shepherd’s Hill. Legend has it that a shepherd found an idol here and the reigning Kakatiya King built a mud fort around it.

Surrounded by a deep moat, an outer wall and an inner double wall, this Fort was neigh impregnable. Made even more daunting by the cannons mounted on its 87 bastions, Golconda was the strongest amongst the forts of Deccan. It was Aurangazeb who finally managed to infringe the fort in 1687 and it is said that even this was made possible only because of a traitor on the inside.

Meandering up the hill, within these fortifications, is yet another stone wall made from the boulders already there. So, this once-unconquerable-now-in-ruins fort is still striking in its architecture.

But the truly remarkable samples of the ingenious design and planning that went into the construction of this fort remain the Persian wheel water Supply and the acoustic signalling mechanism.

Relying purely on gravity, water was collected from, stored and supplied at different levels of this massive citadel!

Every building and wall is positioned in a way that allows sound from the entryway to be carried up to the hilltop. Believed to be a communication mechanism for the guards, one can still experience this by clapping at the threshold and hearing the echo travel.

The third feat of engineering in Golconda that has stood the test of time are the archways built in a way to allow cool breeze to circulate through the various palaces and halls, a definite breather from the summer heat of Hyderabad.

Other interesting must-sees in this fort complex are the still intact Aslah Khana (3 storeyed armoury), Ramadas Bandikhana (where the legendary devotee of Lord Rama, Bhakta Ramadasu was jailed by the last ruler of Qutub Shahi Dynasty, Tana Shah for surreptitiously ‘borrowing’ money from the royal treasury to restore the Bhadrachalam Temple), Baradari (pavilion on the hilltop), Ibrahim Masjid, Mortuary Baths (in today’s context just beautiful archways built in Persian+Turkish style), Taramati Mosque, Nagina Bagh (once a thriving diamond trade centre as attested by none other than Marco Polo, today, a garden).

It is believed that even the Kohinoor was mined here!

Things To Do: Get a guide who will take you up the hillock and regale you along the way with intrigues of the court from an era gone by.

or

Watch the Light & Sound Show conducted by the State Department of Tourism, where every evening, the history and romance of this beautiful place is recreated through music and story telling.

or go early in the evening and do both. :)

Read Next: Standing Still: Moazzam Jahi Market

February 26, 2016
Royal Ruins: Shey Palace

On the road from Leh to Thiksey, atop a hill, sits The Shey Palace and Monastery. It is by far the most picturesque of monasteries in India. Little surprise then that it was once the summer palace of the Kings of Ladakh.

The views that the Shey Palace commands are like no other. Despite the persistently thick cloud cover that dogged us through our week in Ladakh, it made for some beautiful pictures.

All you need to do is pick your vantage point!

It is said that the lake right across the road, once mirrored the entire palace, lending its name ‘Shey‘ – meaning mirror – to the palace and the village.

Though overrun now, it still is a thing of beauty and joy.

& it is not just the setting, but the Shey Palace in itself which is stunning. The wooden accents to the doors and windows only add to the beauty of the facade and make for striking pictures.

Here, it all comes together in a picture window framed in wood. :)

The monastery in the palace boasts of a large Buddha statue gilded in copper, brass and gold that spans across the two storeys of the split-level temple. So, you spend a good few hours not just paying your respects at The Temple of Sakyamuni Buddha, but also climbing around and exploring the hillside ruins in the crisp fresh mountain breeze.

There are chortens and stupas, prayer flags and wheels at every turn & corner.

Read More on Ladakh:

Little Ones of Ladakh
Celebrating Life & Beyond
In The Realm of The Passes: Khardung La
5 Reasons You Should Travel to Ladakh Off-Season
In The Nomadic Settlement of Puga

December 6, 2015