Map In My Pocket

Tag: History

A Quick Guide to Goa Travel : Eat, See, Do.
It isn’t just the beaches – which sure are numerous and beautiful – that make the city state of Goa such a tourist magnet for Indians and foreigners alike. It is also its vibrant culture. A culture that is a mix of the local Goan eclectic Indo – Portuguese history juxtaposed with the bohemian spirit inherited from a long line of trippy tourists who have made Goa their home.

With its picturesque forts and historic churches, hip flea markets that run shoulder to shoulder with chic boutiques, trendy cafes along treelined avenues, Goa has something of interest to every kind of traveller.

So, here is a quick guide to travelling through Goa. From where to eat to what to see and do on your first trip to Goa.

Where to Eat in Goa

You cannot be in Goa and not have seafood. And it is said that it couldn’t get better than the Goan Fish Thali at Fat Fish, where, for once, you will see just as many locals as tourists relishing in the distinctive Portuguese flavour of Goan cuisine.

Yet another favourite of the locals and celebrities alike is the Exotic Seafood Platter at Martins Corner.

And as for vegetarians like me, head to Casa da Moeda late afternoon for high tea and be regaled by the hosts who dish up some some local Goan anecdotes with a side of tea and cake. Originally Goa’s Mint, currency was minted here a hundred and eighty four years ago. Today it is the Dias family’s home and one can visit with a prior appointment.

Villa Blanche Bistro in Assagao

Also, if you happen to be in Goa on a Sunday, then the brunch at Villa Blanche Bistro cannot be missed. For here you are not just spoilt for choice with the variety of bagels, pretzels and cheeses on offer. Vegetarians can dig in to a sumptuous meal too, thanks to their exclusive vegan and gluten free menus.

What to See in Goa

The beaches ofcourse.

While North Goa is known for it wild parties and crowded beaches, South Goa is for those looking for the quieter beaches to spend a lazy afternoon. So beach hopping from North Goa to South Goa should surely be top of your itinerary for Goa.

Popular North Goa Beaches

From Anjuna to Baga, every beach you have heard of is in North Goa.

Baga Beach, North Goa

1. Anjuna

If you love chasing sunsets, then the Anjuna Beach with its swaying palms and rocky cliffs is the place for you. It is also here that the famous Flea Market is set up, every Wednesday.

2. Baga

But if you want to indulge in some people watching, then the Baga beach is where everyone is at.

3. Calangute

Calangute with its uber cool eateries and shacks is the queen of Goa beaches and also its most crowded!

4. Miramar

The Miramar beach is to Goa, what Chowpatty is to Mumbai! Miramar is also known for its stunning views of the Fort Aguada.

5. Vagator

And, how can you miss the beach made famous by that iconic scene in Dil Chahta Hai ?! It is the Vagator Beach and Chapora Fort then.

Popular South Goa Beaches

Agonda Beach, South Goa

1. Agonda

Agonda used to be so quiet that the Olive Ridley turtles used to nest here. But with South Goa rapidly making it onto the tourist radar, Agonda has become its most popular beach. Today, it is people and beach shacks that crowd out this beach.

2. Palolem

Though the Palolem Beach is yet another popular beach in South Goa, quickly being overrun by eateries, boutiques and restaurants; I still love its vibe. There definitely is something about Palolem, which is probably why it is the setting for silent night parties every Saturday.

Remember that song in Ae Dil Hai Muskhil – where you dance to your own music in a club?

Churches of Old Goa

The second most popular thing to do in Goa, after beach hopping is to see the churches and convents of Old Goa. Or Velha Goa – as it is known locally – the old Portuguese capital.

Sunset Views of Velha Goa and the River Mandovi

The whole of Old Goa is a UNESCO inscribed world heritage site and rightfully so. For these churches and cathedrals were built right after the Portuguese came to Goa in 1510, with a view to inspire awe amongst the native Indians. So that they would more readily accept Christianity.

See them not just for their striking architecture that varies from Portuguese – Gothic to Tuscan and Corinthian, but also to visit the mausoleum of Goa’s patron saint, Francis Xavier, housed in the Basilica of Bom Jesus.

Things To Do in Goa (Beyond the Beaches)

Dudhsagar Waterfalls

1. Latin Quarter

Take the Fontainhas Walking Tour to explore the oldest surviving Latin Quarter in Old Goa and the only living one in all of Asia. Whimsical and colourful, this walk takes you through narrow alleyways of charming old traditional homes painted in hues of yellow, blue, maroon and green. And, it sure is going to transport you to another time right there in the middle of the bustling city of Panjim.

2. Dudhsagar Waterfalls

Trek to the popular Dudhsagar Waterfalls and explore the luxuriant green forests of Goa, when you tire of its countless beaches.

3. Sunaparanta Centre for Art + Cafe Bodega

Visit the Sunaparanta Goa Centre of the Art. Beloved of the art lovers in Goa, this not-for-profit arts initiative is more than just a gallery and cafe. Sitting in an old Hindu Portuguese house, Sunaparanta serves as a hub for Goa’s cultural events. There is also a library here that is a great resource for anyone looking to delve deeper into understanding art.

4. Divar Island

Cycle on the Divar Island where beautiful little Portuguese villas dot every winding lane. Here on the island is also the Church of Our Lady of Compassion that boasts stunning panoramic views of the Goan countryside.

5. Nerul River

Take a sunset boat ride on the Nerul river.

6. Literati Bookshop & Cafe

Check out the Literati Bookshop and Cafe in Calangute to browse through some antiquarian books or just for some coffee and conversation in the garden cafe of this store that has been featured in lists of the Greatest Bookstores of the World.
```
Travel with me. Come find me on Instagram, Facebook or Twitter.
```
December 3, 2018
Machilipatnam: The First Port of Call

Masulipatnam or Machilipatnam as it is now known was once the first port of call on the Coromandel coast for European traders vying for a hold on India and it’s trade. This often overlooked-by-travellers town on the East Coast of South India makes for the perfect day trip destination from Vijayawada or even as an interesting detour for those heading to Vijayawada.

Where is Machilipatnam?

Machilipatnam is a coastal town in the Krishna District of Andhra Pradesh.

Machilipatnam History

An ancient port town of the sixteenth century, Machilipatnam’s long rich history isn’t just about the trade. For it even finds mention in many Buddhist texts, for it is believed that the Buddha made his way to Amaravati – only a couple of hours away, via here.

Though this once important port has faded away into insignificance it still boasts of flourishing trade. Only today, it is in the hugely popular Kalamkari fabric and gold plated costume jewellery (or imitation jewellery as it is more commonly known) used in Indian movies and television soaps.

Machilipatnam Places to Visit + Things To Do

1. Machilipatnam Beach / Manginapudi Beach

The Machilipatnam Beach tops of the list of points of interest in Machilipatnam. For this is a beach that is only a short road trip away from Hyderabad, which being in the land locked Telangana, doesn’t otherwise have quick access to the sea. It is also a black sand beach, yet another feature that sets the Machilipatnam – Manginapudi Beach apart. For there no other in the state.

2. Datta Rameshwaram

While Manginapudi in Machilipatnam has long been popular for its beach. It is only in the last few decades that Manginapudi has grown in prominence, owing to be being adopted by Datta Peetham led by Sri Ganapathi Sachidananda Swamy. He christened Manginapudi as Datta Rameshwaram, declaring it be a holy site equivalent to the major pilgrimage centre of Rameshwaram, after building a temple dedicated to Dattatreya Swamy.

Since, then Manginapudi has also attracting tourists who wish to take a dip in the sea, visit the the temple on the coast and the twelve wells that were also built by the Peetham to defend the town from destructive tidal waves.

3. Machilipatnam Port & Harbour

A trip to this port from where the East India Company conducted its trade should prove to be interesting. Instead of a huge fleet of ships that once docked here, you will now find colourful fishing boats crowding the waters. A more welcome sight surely?

Work is set to begin on developing an all weather deep water port here, at this long forgotten harbour.

4. Dutch Fort and Armoury

Though neglected as with everything else here in Machilipatnam, the sprawling Bandar Fort which was built by the Dutch in the 17th century, with its white washed walls and tiled roofs is reminiscent of Reis Magus in Goa. It is surprisingly good looking!

The fort is a living testimony to the maritime trade history of the region. For it has been home to a hospital, a customs office, storehouses and godowns, an armoury and a textile factory even at different times in the last few centuries.

5. Chilakalapudi Panduranga Swamy Temple

The Chilakalapudi Panduranga Swamy Temple built by Sree Narasimham in 1927 is a beautiful symphony of colours and symmetries. So strikingly is the main temple – dedicated to Panduranga Swamy and his wife Goddess Rukmini – painted in alternating hues of bright and vivid colours, that is bound to grab your attention from the moment you set foot on the sprawling temple grounds.

Panduranga Swamy Temple in Chilakalapudi, Machilipatnam

What is even more fascinating about this temple though, is that, there is no Hundi (a donation box that is a common feature of temples) here and anyone who comes to this place of worship need not pay anything for puja performed here. The temple is still maintained privately by the original builder’s grand son, Sree Gangadharam. He is also the head priest of the main temple.

Tiny temples in hidden alcoves dot the entire length of the complex and there is also the remarkable Sahasra Linga Mahamandapam with its many Shiva Lingams.

Chilakalapudi is also famous for being a hub for rolled gold jewellery.

6. Pedana Kalmakari

Pedana is where everybody’s favourite fabric, Kalamkari comes from.

Screen-printing New Age Kalamkari in Pedana, Machilipatnam

Machilipatnam and Sri Kalahasti are the two main centres in the country for production of this artisanal fabric.

READ: Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Sri Kalahasti

But, Machilipatnam, has today moved onto screen printing, to quickly produce Kalamkari designs on both cotton and silk fabric to meet the growing demand – for fabric that has the Kalamkari design but not the price tag that comes with it. Very efficiently putting to use its long history of textile trading – that dates as far back as trading with the Greeks in Muslin – in commercialising this traditional form of art.

Must Try in Machilipatnam

Bandar Laddu

Don’t forget to bring back a box of the sumptuous Bandar Laddu, which gets it name from the place it comes from – Bandar, which is but Persian for Port, and one of the names given to the port town of Machilipatnam.

Explorers Guide | Getting There

One can get to Machilipatnam either via Hyderabad or Vijayawada. Both of which are major cities in Telangana and Andhra Pradesh well connected by air, rail and road.

Hyderabad to Machilipatnam

Distance | 340 Kilometres
Drive Time | 6 Hours

Vijayawada to Machilipatnam

Distance | 70 Kilometres
Drive Time | 2 Hours

December 2, 2018
The Great Living Chola Temples – Vol I: Brihadeeswara Temple

In and around Thanjavur are The Great Living Chola Temples, three temple complexes dating back to the 11^th and 12^th centuries. Built by the Cholas, who were undoubtedly one of the most powerful monarchies of South India that ruled for over four and a half centuries, all of these ancient temples are ‘living temples’ – classified as such by UNESCO on their World Heritage List – in the sense that the pattern of worship and rituals established over a thousand years ago continue as is, to this day.

Thanjavur, mostly known for the Tanjore (Thanjavur) Paintings that are unique to this region, is home to the first of these Great Living Chola Temples. Locally known as the Big Temple, this is the Brihadeeswara Temple in Thanjavur. The grandest of the three.

As the region passed on from the Cholas to the Nayaks and then to the Marathas over the centuries, a few additions were made to the temple complex, from protective fort walls to murals and minor temples. One such are the beautiful frescos painted onto the ceiling of the Mandapam housing the massive 25 tonne monolithic Nandi, mount of Lord Shiva or Brihadeeswara, as he is in this temple.

& this particular mural is undoubtedly reminiscent of the famous Tanjore Paintings, all it needs is a little touch of gold!

Everything about this temple is big. The 20 feet Nandi, the 15 feet Dwarapalakas guarding the entrances, the 216 feet Vimana towering over the Sanctum Sanctorum that has to be two storeyed to house the huge Shiva Lingam (lingam form of the presiding deity).

The Vimana built over a base tier of two levels rises to dizzying heights, carrying on it an octagonal stone Shikhara which itself weighs 81 tonnes.

Ancient inscriptions refer to this Vimana as Dakshina Meru, implying it to be Mount Meru of the South or Maha Meru, Lord Shiva’s mountain abode.

It is said that a special ramp was constructed to carry the Shikhara up, to install on the Vimana, from a site six kilometres away and that more than a thousand elephants were required in the construction of this temple. Which is probably one of most the magnificent of Indian temples.

In fact, the city of Thanjavur itself was created with the deliberate intention of establishing it as a Bhakti centre. So, here is this impressively massive Big Temple at its heart and radiating out from it is the city, growing in concentric circuits starting from the inner quadrangle of the temple.

A colonnade of sandstone columns run all along the inner perimeter of the temple forming a circumambulatory path or Prakara. Though the Prakara itself dates back to the original construction, the 108 Shiva Lingas set against the stunning backdrop of beautiful murals painted on these stone walls are a 16th century addition.

The main temple itself occupies the rear half of the inner quadrangle, while two colossal Gopurams (gates) – Keralaanthagan & Rajarajan – into which are carved monolithic stone sculptures, lead the way.

Exemplifying the pure Dravidian style of architecture, these Chola Temples are not significant not just archaeologically but culturally as well. For it is believed that the Cholas built their temples not just as places for their people to get together and pray but to serve as epicentres of economic activity.

No trip to Thanjavur would be complete without witnessing these marvels of workmanship. The sheer size of these temples will cause you to wonder, muse on the scale at which affairs of state were once carried out!

The other two temples which together with the Big Temple form this unique group of living temples are the Brihadeeswara Temple at Gangaikonda Cholapuram and the Airavateswara Temple at Darasuram.

Explorers Guide

Getting There: Begin your day trip with the Brihadeeswara Temple in Thanjavur, drive on to the Airavateswara Temple, Darasuram, making a quick pitstop for lunch along the way on this 37 Kilometres stretch. Complete the circuit with the Brihadeeswara Temple, Gangaikonda Cholapuram. The 72 Kilometres drive from here, back to Thanjavur will take around 2 hours.

PS: Here is a super shaky video of a few of the brilliant murals in the Prakara.

Decided to add this here to the post, inspite of it being such a terrible attempt at shooting video because, I do want to share with you atleast a glimpse of the natural dye frescos that are such a fine example of ancient Indian artistry.

April 2, 2017
Pondicherry, Racist much?

Pondicherry has South India’s most distinctive sub culture. They say if you can’t afford a ticket to Europe, travel to Pondicherry instead. Stroll through the white part of town and be transported in time and place to a laid back French town where cafes cool and inviting are at every turn.

But, just how racist are you Puducheri?

Does the storm water canal that separates the French and Tamil quarters into neat little grids of White Town and Black Town also exist in your mind?

This is Cafè des Arts. It is the most popular Cafe in Pondicherry. Rated #1 on Trip Advisor with a Certificate of Excellence to boot.

Here, Indians are not welcome.

& this is what transpired in the cafe and on Trip Advisor.

“so when we ask you to wait, we are trying to please your comfort”

Completely missed the point did they? Or do the tone, the numbers and the smattering of French point to something now not just obvious but also reiterated and reinforced??

Forget about being “asked to wait”, if only we were even acknowledged.

*Sigh*

We are the same people, the very same Indians who wait endlessly in queues outside the Kamats and Rajdhanis of the world for one simple meal.

Cafè des Arts

10, Suffren Street
White Town, Puducherry

+91 9994481914

Open: 8:30 am – 7 pm, all days except Tuesdays

We were refused a table at Villa Shanti too. It is the next ‘Most Popular Cafe in Pondicherry’. We were told they did not have a table, while we all stood in the foyer, right there in an empty cafe. On our second visit there, as we pushed past the half closed door, we were ushered in with a grimace from the very same head waiter. Well, every other cafe in Pondicherry was closed because of the Jalli Kattu protests going on that day. Though we definitely felt unwelcome and awkward, the food was good and the experience “okay”.

This is the same Pondicherry where Indian citizens were once offered a choice of French Citizenship as an era came to an end. It is the same Pondicherry where old war veterans, till today, turn up on the streets in the full glory of their erstwhile military uniform on Bastille Day every year.

It is also the same Pondicherry that I so love, for in its neat little blocks, self reliance comes easy to a girl who just wants to explore, camera in hand.

February 23, 2017
Medak: A Trinity of Faiths & more

Everyone in Hyderabad has heard of the Medak Church and if you grew up in this city it is highly likely that you would have even gone there on a school trip. It is after all the largest diocese in all of Asia and is believed to be second only to the Vatican, even across the globe!

What started off as a project of true Christian compassion in 1914, to mitigate the suffering of people during the three-year famine that had hit Medak then, has brought to this district its most famous landmark. It was the missionary Rev. Charles Walker Posnett’s idea, to create employment rather than run a free kitchen and this massive church built in the Gothic Revival style that took 10 years to complete did achieve this objective.

Notwithstanding the fact that the church gained its most renown for its beautiful stained glass windows – which do leave one spellbound as the sunlight filters through them into the inner sanctum of the cathedral – its most striking feature remains the 175 feet bell tower.

There is more to this sleepy little town though. Telangana’s most celebrated festival, Bathukamma is performed on a large scale here. Recognised as the symbol of the state’s cultural identity, this nine-day festival is celebrated in honour of the Hindu Goddess Gauri. Yet another festival unique to this region is Peerla Panduga. It is but Muharram, only celebrated by both Hindus and Muslims alike across the Sufi Ashurkhanas here.

& with the Tourism Department‘s Heritage Hotel at the Medak Fort one can enjoy the art of slow travel right here, only an hour and half’s drive away.

The Medak Fort is a testimony to the history of this district. Strategically located on a hill, this fort is known to have exploited the natural topography of the area in creating an invincible defence around itself, standing witness to Medak’s significance during the reign of the Kakatiyas.

This summit today offers one gorgeous views of the surrounding city.

The view from the fort is not be missed. For it surely is an intriguing sight to see a city grow and flourish around Trinity Diagonal – a Mosque, a Temple and the Church all perfectly aligned in a diagonal cutting across Medak.

Built around the 12^th century, the Medak Fort was once a command outpost for the Kakatiya, Bahamani and Qutb Shahi dynasties and is believed to have set the scene for many a battle for over five centuries.

Not much remains of the fort now, except for its three entrances – Prathama Dwaram (first entrance), Simha Dwaram (lion entrance) and Gaja Dwaram (elephant entrance). These are striking in their architecture and as their names suggest, are adorned with snarling lion heads and majestic elephants. Also standing untouched by time on the main entrance is the Ganda Bherundam, a double-headed eagle with an elephant in its talons. This mythical bird, an ancient symbol of royalty and the great Vijayanagar Empire’s insignia has since been incorporated into the present day Karnataka State’s emblem. One is then left to wonder if it isn’t but a remnant of the symbolic consolidation of the reigning dynasties of the era.

So, while planning your next road trip from Hyderabad don’t just strike Medak off your list, for there is a lot more to this district-town than just its record holding Church.

Explorers Guide

Distance from Hyderabad: 95 Kilometers
Trip Duration: Half Day – Weekend
Extend your Road Trip: Drive on to Pocharam
Route: Take the NH44 via Kompally to get to Medak.
Stop By: The road to Medak goes through the Narsapur Forest Range and you will find a horde of monkeys lined up all along the road. So don’t forget to carry some bananas to feed these guys. They are so accustomed to this that the minute you slow your car they will stand up and look into your window to see what snacks you have got them!

January 31, 2017
Travel Wishlist: Go Israel!

It all started with Instagram. The wanderlust-ing, frantically adding and reorganising my Travel Wishlist, in fact all that stunning imagery from some of the most beautiful destinations in the world was part of what inspired me bring together and share my own travel stories here on the blog!

So here I am kicking off a series of blog posts from my personal ‘Travel Wishlist’, where I bring together some of the photographs that have gotten me impatient to get going again and why it is that I want to go there.

Go Israel!

Dead Sea, from the Instagram Account of Hello Emilie

Why do I want to go there?
To tick atleast 5 places off the UNESCO World Heritage Sites List and more.

1. The White City of Tel Aviv

Considered to be an outstanding representation of the Modern Movement of Architecture in Europe, translated to the local context of Israel’s culture and climate, Tel Aviv would make for an eclectic destination with its mix of heritage and the very happening nightlife that is known for today. So, here I could go from day to night, from photographing heritage sites to sunsets on the beach, from early morning seascapes to late night cityscapes.

Oh, and not to mention shopping at its many bazaars!

2. The Incense Route through Negev Desert

This trade route to the Mediterranean ports flourished for over seven hundred years from the 3rd century BC to the 4nd century AD. Over a hundred kilometer stretch in the desert of Negev is what was once the ancient Incense Route and I would love to wander amongst the ruins and discover what UNESCO calls a completely fossilized cultural environment.

Desert settlements with towns, fortresses, caravanserai, and sophisticated water conservation systems along this harsh desert route stand witness to just how prosperous the trade in incense was then.

3. Old City of Jerusalem and Its Walls

A Biblical City – the Old City of Jerusalem is the City of David and is also where Jesus was crucified – it is holy for Jews and Christians alike. It is also believed that, it was here in one of the oldest cities of the world that Prophet Mohammed rose to Heaven making it a holy city for all the three major Abrahamic religions.

Did you know that World Maps were once drawn with the ancient city of Jerusalem at the center? The only three continents discovered at the time, Europe, Asia & Africa were set around this city built by King David in 1004BC.

Now, how can you resist that?!

4. Old City of Acre

A walled city over the sea, Acre is yet another ancient holy city. The Old City of Acre has survived centuries, with the remains of a medieval Crusader town from 1104 relatively undisturbed and living on, both above and below today’s streets along with an Ottoman town of the 18^th century partly built on top of these Crusader structures.

5. Masada

One look at a picture of the ‘Hanging Palace of Herod’ and you will not want to miss going here. Rome was not built in a day they say, and this palace of the Judaen king Herod was built in in the classic style of the early Roman Empire. Need I say more?

Set dramatically – overlooking the Dead Sea, this rugged fortress of the ancient Jewish Kingdom of Israel is the most complete monument of the Roman siege works to have survived for over 13 centuries, intact till today.

Lastly,

To float in the Dead Sea, of course!

Who hasn’t heard of the Seven Wonders of the World and not wanted to see for oneself atleast one of them?

& also, I already know what I am going to eat when in Israel. Hummus!

PS: This post was made possible by The Ministry of Tourism, Israel. So, do go watch their video on Israel and you are sure to find something to fall in love with.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3A0FM6IVL7s

Jet, Set, Go Israel!

Read Next: Travel Wishlist: 25 Things To Do in India in 2018

December 2, 2016
Bidar: The City of Whispering Tombs

Of the 61 listed Monuments of Bidar, 30 are tombs. Little wonder then that Bidar is known as The City of Whispering Tombs!

135 Kms from Hyderabad, just across the state border in Karnataka is Bidar. If you love visiting places of historic significance and can’t get enough of architecture, this is one road trip that you must make from the city.

The most prominent landmark of this city – which dates back to the third century BC – is the Bidar Fort. It was built by the first sultan of the Bahamani Dynasty, Ala Ud Din Bahaman Shah when he set up his capital and 4Kms from here is the final resting place of the Bahamani Sultans. No visit to Bidar is complete without a trip to these majestic structures located in Ashtur, The Bahamani Tombs. Some of them are in a state of disrepair today, but even these crumbling mausoleums stand a beautiful testament to the art of an era gone by.

En route to Ashtur just before you get to the Tombs, on to the left is yet another idyllic setting to rest for eternity, the expansive and peaceful resting place of Hazrat Khalil Ullah, a popular religious preceptor of the time. Known as the Chaukhandi, this octagonal structure is beautiful in its simplicity and clean lines.

July 15, 2016
Golconda Fort: Through The Ages

The Golconda Fort is a testament to the history of Hyderabad and this region.

Originally a fort of the Kakatiyas, it went through the Bahamanis to the Qutub Shahi Kings, who made it their capital. From the earlier peacock and griffin carvings to the later fort walls with its numerous bastions and battlements bear evidence to this fact.

Anyone who has lived in Hyderabad long enough will tell you how important this confluence of Hindu and Muslim cultures has been in shaping not just the city but even its distinctive language! Hyderabadi as it is called (a mixture of Urdu & Hindi) even extends its influence to the local Telangana dialect of Telugu giving it it’s distinctive twist.

Built on a hillock 400 feet high, The Golconda Fort derives its name from the Telugu word ‘Golla Konda’ meaning Shepherd’s Hill. Legend has it that a shepherd found an idol here and the reigning Kakatiya King built a mud fort around it.

Surrounded by a deep moat, an outer wall and an inner double wall, this Fort was neigh impregnable. Made even more daunting by the cannons mounted on its 87 bastions, Golconda was the strongest amongst the forts of Deccan. It was Aurangazeb who finally managed to infringe the fort in 1687 and it is said that even this was made possible only because of a traitor on the inside.

Meandering up the hill, within these fortifications, is yet another stone wall made from the boulders already there. So, this once-unconquerable-now-in-ruins fort is still striking in its architecture.

But the truly remarkable samples of the ingenious design and planning that went into the construction of this fort remain the Persian wheel water Supply and the acoustic signalling mechanism.

Relying purely on gravity, water was collected from, stored and supplied at different levels of this massive citadel!

Every building and wall is positioned in a way that allows sound from the entryway to be carried up to the hilltop. Believed to be a communication mechanism for the guards, one can still experience this by clapping at the threshold and hearing the echo travel.

The third feat of engineering in Golconda that has stood the test of time are the archways built in a way to allow cool breeze to circulate through the various palaces and halls, a definite breather from the summer heat of Hyderabad.

Other interesting must-sees in this fort complex are the still intact Aslah Khana (3 storeyed armoury), Ramadas Bandikhana (where the legendary devotee of Lord Rama, Bhakta Ramadasu was jailed by the last ruler of Qutub Shahi Dynasty, Tana Shah for surreptitiously ‘borrowing’ money from the royal treasury to restore the Bhadrachalam Temple), Baradari (pavilion on the hilltop), Ibrahim Masjid, Mortuary Baths (in today’s context just beautiful archways built in Persian+Turkish style), Taramati Mosque, Nagina Bagh (once a thriving diamond trade centre as attested by none other than Marco Polo, today, a garden).

It is believed that even the Kohinoor was mined here!

Things To Do: Get a guide who will take you up the hillock and regale you along the way with intrigues of the court from an era gone by.

or

Watch the Light & Sound Show conducted by the State Department of Tourism, where every evening, the history and romance of this beautiful place is recreated through music and story telling.

or go early in the evening and do both. :)

Read Next: Standing Still: Moazzam Jahi Market

February 26, 2016