Tag: Portraits

  • Human by Nature: Kumarakom on Vembanad Lake

    Human by Nature: Kumarakom on Vembanad Lake

    Kerala, a land of magical fables and lyrical stories. A land that I first discovered through its stories. Growing up as I did, reading stories told by the many gifted writers of my country. Stories that were so intensely humane that I couldn’t help but be drawn into that world, a world of overwhelmingly beautiful landscapes teeming with life that drew its very living force from a culture that was both singular and diverse at once. A culture that had welcomed many a different people from places near and far, a culture that absorbed and grew alongside its people, as the land went through a rich and varied history of its own. 

    From rambling along the river Nila unravelling and understanding human emotions through Anita Nair’s Mistress to being thrown into the heady spice gardens of Salman Rushide’s The Moors Last Sigh, I had journeyed through Kerala vicariously for years. If I had just about got a taste of the cultural pluralism of Kerala then, through the eyes Rushdie’s narrator, Moor, who comes from a family which began when a Goan Catholic of Portuguese descent married a Cochin Jew of Spanish descent. It was on my road trip through Kerala in 2018 aboard the Kerala Blog Express that I actually got to witness it and live it.

    & when I saw this film by Kerala Tourism for their campaign Human By Nature I couldn’t help but feel it all over again. That magic in the everyday, the power of human stories, the bond between us and the nature that surrounds us and envelopes us in its warm hug.

    Kumarakom on Vembanad Lake

    On my last trip there, as our houseboat made its way back from Alleppey drifting along lazily on the backwaters, we sat on the deck of our houseboat gazing at the idyllic scenery watching the villages go by. And on a whim decided to make a quick pit stop at one of them. Kumarakom

    Kumarakom on Vembanad Lake, Kerala’s largest and India’s longest lake is a cluster of tiny islands that is famous not just for its sprawling bird sanctuary but also for being a quieter alternative to Alleppey. Making it the ideal destination for those looking to get a feel of the Kerala backwaters, but at a leisurely pace.

    As we got off our boat onto the meandering dirt path into the village, afternoon was just turning to evening and the village was stirring back to life, and I couldn’t help but think of  a life where afternoon siestas were but a way of life!

    Experiencing village life at Kumarakom

    Walking through the village we were greeted with welcoming smiles and that was all the encouragement that our curiosity needed. We spent our evening stopping at houses, crossing over wooden bridges to nearby farms, looking in on people going about their business.

    Sometimes even trying our hand at these jobs to sometimes just being content watching. We got to meet and talk to people working at varied traditional jobs – from coir making and mat weaving to catch net fishing and toddy tapping.  

    Travel today has evolved beyond checking off things to do on a pre planned itinerary. Seeking authentic experiences, connecting with the land that we are travelling through local people, food, customs and culture has become the very essence of travel. To have experienced this, a slice of life along the Vembanad Lake in Kumarakom, Kerala surely made us human all over again. 

    Here’s to a renewed sense of appreciation to everything ‘Human by Nature’, to a life of peace and oneness where man, animal and nature co exist in symbiotic harmony.

    For magic can exist in a land where majestic beings are not just revered as gods and loved as family but also get to star in celebrated stories. Take for instance, Sooryamangalam Sreeganeshan, the elephant who is the narrator and protagonist of The Tusk That Did The Damage by Tania James.

    NOTE: This is a sponsored post written in collaboration with Kerala Tourism under the Human by Nature campaign. The content of the post is completely my own, drawn from my own experiences in Kerala.

  • Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Uppada

    Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Uppada

    Every second house in the village of Uppada, in coastal Andhra Pradesh is a handloom store. Just like Mangalagiri. It goes with the territory. For it too is a handloom village that has brought forth a commercially successful style of saree.

    Known for its soft texture and lightness, what defines this saree is its thread count. A hundred threads go in lengthwise while a hundred and twenty go in sideways. Not a thread more, not a thread less. For it is this thread count that ensures the quality and feel of this beautifully rich handwoven fabric.

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    Once the royal garment of the rulers of Andhra Pradesh, weavers were prohibited from weaving these sarees for anyone outside of the royal household.

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    Though it is now the favoured form of  wedding saree, the Uppada weave has had quite a roller coaster ride. From being a simple cotton saree in the 1950s, to fading out in the 80s to achieving the Geographical Indication tag in the 2000s. Today this saree sells from anywhere upwards of Rs.6000/- to around Rs.3,00,000/-, not taking into account the custom orders of course.

    This style of weaving is a local variation on the three hundred year old Jamdani technique. The Uppada Saree evolved to its current form when Bangladeshi weavers came and settled in Uppada and the traditional Jamdani technique took on a new essence.

    So, don’t be surprised if you hear the Uppada Pattu (silk) Sarees being referred  to as Uppada Jamdani Sarees. For its origins can be traced back to today’s Bangladesh. 

    Would You Believe?
    That late Ms.Jayalalitha, erstwhile Chief Minister of Tamil Nadu had once come to Uppada to commission a saree made with threads of pure molten gold!
    &  that today there still is a picture of her in that saree at the weaver’s house.


    Explorers Guide

    Getting There: 16 kilometres from Kakinada and almost 500 kilometres from Hyderabad, a trip to Uppada is better done on a road trip through Konaseema.
    Remember: Avoid the bigger stores with the glass fronts and the air-conditioning. It is in the smaller houses that you will find the better stuff. Not just in terms of the quality of the threads used but also in terms of design and colour.
    Don’t Miss: Sunset at Uppada Beach


    Read Next: Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Karipakam


    Other Artisan Villages of India:

    Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Sri Kalahasti
    Artisan Villages of Telangana: Nirmal
    Artisan Villages of Telangana: Cheriyal


     

  • In the Nomadic Settlement of Puga

    In the Nomadic Settlement of Puga

    Snow crunched under my heavy boots as I stepped out of the heated SUV, into the freezing winter of Ladakh. It was -16 degrees and we had just arrived in Puga, a little nomadic village in the Changthang valley.

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    Located in the Eastern Ladakh Region of Jammu and Kashmir, Puga is a geothermal field and the site where the nomads of Changthang settle down for the winter and tend to their animals in the sub zero Himalayan temperatures.

    This 12 kilometer stretch of Himalayan valley in the Changthang Wildlife Sanctuary has been identified as one of the important geo thermal sites in India by the Geological Survey. This winter home of the Changpas is a  harsh and unpredictable land interspersed with geysers and hot springs and come winter it is blanketed in snow.

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    Changpas are Tibetan Nomads who follow the same migratory routes in Ladakh every year, only to settle in Puga for the four cold months. Staying in the same encampments, these ‘Nomadic Pastoralists’ bring their livestock to the same seasonal pastures every year.

    The Changpas rear yaks, horses, sheep and also ofcourse the famous ‘pashmina’ goats. The geo thermal ice fields of Puga serve them well as winter pastures for the snow and its melt bring greenery to this high altitude cold desert.It is an important season for the nomads for January and February are the birthing months for their cattle and it is also when the pashmina fur grows.

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    Here is where we stopped for lunch, Puga, setting up kitchen in one of the stone walled corrals. By the time we had warmed ourselves with some Kashmiri Qawah, we were surrounded by curious eyes and runny noses. Little nomads were every where, shy but interested in the newcomers all bundled up in their down jackets.

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    “That’s my dog, see, he is a nomad dog” said Tenzin in hesitant but clear English, perceptive to the point that she knows that we regular people would find anything ‘nomadic’ fascinating.

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    Hanle, which is 115 kilometers from Puga is where she goes to school. Sumdho is the closest town though, we had passed it on our way here and I had naturally assumed this is where these little ones in this remote corner of India, who spoke such good English would go to school.

    Only in conversing with her did I realise just how far across the Himalayas the Changpas traversed for livelihood.

    The Changthang Wildlife Sanctuary is spread across India and Tibet and historically the Changpas of Ladakh would migrate with their herds into Tibet. But with how things are politically today, this is no longer an option for them.


    Explorers Guide 

    Getting There: Puga is at a distance of 180 kilometers from Leh, the largest and the one town in the region that has all the amenities that one is used to otherwise. Read network coverage. It would be wiser to drive to Chumathang though, stay overnight  and do a day trip to Puga from there on. Chumathang to Puga is less than 40 kilometers but the route will take a good 4 hours, so start early!

    Stay: Chumathang Hot Springs Guest House. They have heaters in some of their rooms & that sure is luxury for a winter in Ladakh.


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    PS: Know a friend who would love to explore this non touristy side of Ladakh? Then, please do share this post and spread the love!


    Read Next: Little Ones of Ladakh


    Read More on Ladakh:

    5 Reasons Why You Should Travel to Ladakh Off-Season
    Celebrating Life & Beyond
    Royal Ruins: Shey Palace
    In The Realm of The Passes: Khardung La


     

  • Little Ones of Ladakh

    Little Ones of Ladakh

    I was never interested in shooting portraits, or so I thought!

    Standing still, on the sidelines, as columns of brilliantly dressed Ladakhis walked by to the Polo Grounds for the Opening Ceremony of the Ladakh Festival, I watched. The multitude of tourists and photographers clamouring to capture everything. It stuck me. I was just a shy mouse.

    Embarrassed though I was, I did make a not-so-successful attempt at clicking the performers as they made their way to the Ladakh Festival. So, over the week as I journeyed through these Himalayan lands, I tried to remedy this. I overcame my natural inhibitions & clicked portraits of the kids I became friendly with.

    & seeing their eager smiles as they hugged my camera close and stuck their noses to the screen gave me more satisfaction than anything else on this trip!!

    So, here you go.

    This little girl was the perfect model & gave me the confidence to pursue travel portraits of the Little Ones of Ladakh. Which is why this is my favourite picture & therefore the first in this series.

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    I clicked this picture in Leh, as these little boys waited for their dad to take them to the Ladakh Festival.

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    & this little baby girl here, at the opening ceremony, watching the performances from the protective lap of her grandmother.

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    On our way to Tso Moriri, when we stopped at the village of Chumathang for lunch, I came across this group of children. The smallest & undoubtedly the cutest one, the little Matryoshka Doll in this photo was the subject of every photographer in that area then and by the time I got to clicking this photo she was ready to flee! While the older girl wanted her photo taken & was preening for it. Quite an interesting conflict I thought :)

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    Again a conflicting picture, where the older of the two gets very conscious as she tries to pose for the camera, on the way back from school in Thiksey.

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    To end this post, a photo of the most adorable baby boy I have ever seen, excited to be clicked as he stumbles across to the grocery downhill from Shey Palace.

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    Did you have to overcome some fear or reserve on your travels? Do tell me. Would love to get any ideas on how I can take better photos in my further travels!


    Read Next: Ladakh Festival: Celebrating Life & Beyond.


    Read More on Ladakh:

    Royal Ruins: Shey Palace
    In The Realm of The Passes: Khardung La
    5 Reasons You Should  Travel to Ladakh Off-Season
    In The Nomadic Settlement of Puga