Tag: Road Trips from Chennai

  • 8 Fabulous Places to Visit near Chennai

    8 Fabulous Places to Visit near Chennai

    There is ever so often that you crave a quick weekend getaway. For a little breather between work and the drudgery of daily life and you do not have the time to plan an elaborate holiday. On those days, long Weekends are like answered prayers. And, just for times like that, here is a list of 8 places to visit near Chennai that are only a few hours away from the city but are as good a tourist destination as any in the country.

    1. Mahabalipuram / Mamallapuram

    Distance from Chennai  | 57 Kilometres
    Best Time to Visit |
    Monsoon & Winter. October – April.

    Renowned for its ancient monuments dating back to the Pallavas of the seventh and the eighth centuries, Mahabalipuram is home to numerous Hindu temples sculpted as monolithic chariots, cave sanctuaries and rock reliefs even. Together they form a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The most famous of which are the five Rathas dedicated to the five Pandavas of Mahabharata and the elephantine open air rock relief which is The Descent of the Ganges – also known as Arjuna’s Penance.

    Today this ancient seaside town is also buzzing with surfers that are thronging here in their quest for big waves making this the number one place to visit near Chennai.

    READ : 7 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 2017

    Getting There | Mahabalipuram is only an hour and half away from Chennai by road. One can also take the train or bus to get here.

    2. Pondicherry

    Distance from Chennai | 156 Kilometres
    Best Time to Visit |  
    Winter. December – April.

    Go further down the East Coast Road from Mahabalipuram and you reach Auroville – Pondicherry, which is also next on our list of popular tourist places to visit near Chennai.

    They say if you can’t afford a ticket to Europe, travel to Pondicherry instead. Stroll through the white part of town where cafes cool and inviting are at every turn. Or wander through the streets on the Tamil side to absorb the distinctive Franco-Tamil culture of the place.

    Pay a visit to Auroville to experience life at this utopian community, meditate in the Matrimandir and shop for eco friendly products. Take a short drive to Arikamedu, an ancient Roman archaeological site or to the Fossil Forest in Tiruvakkarai. Or simply sit on the edge of the rocky beach and let a sense of tranquillity wash over you.

    Getting There | The best way to get to Pondicherry from Chennai is by the East Coast Road. There are also trains and buses that connect both cities.

    Where to Stay in Pondicherry | Hotel Review: Maison Perumal

    Read  Stories from Pondicherry

    Streets of Pondicherry – Part I: Art
    Streets of Pondicherry – Part II: Architecture

    3. Tharangambadi ( Tranquebar )

    Distance from Chennai  | 270 Kilometres
    Best Time to Visit |
    Winter. December – April.

    Tharangambadi, ‘the place of the singing waves’, was the first Danish trading post in India and in a Danish twist to its original name, it came to be called Tranquebar. Just like Pondicherry, here too, you will find an eclectic mix of two cultures coming together. Of a former Danish colony and a fishing village of rural Tamil Nadu. Besides the lyrical singing waves and the swaying palms of the southern coast line, there are also the Dansborg Fort and the New Jerusalem Church to explore.

    Getting There | The best way to get to Tharangambadi from Chennai is by road. The drive takes over six and a half hours, so one can also take a bus to get to Tharangambadi from Chennai.

    4. Trichy

    Distance from Chennai  | 330 Kilometres
    Best Time to Visit |
    All year round.

    Weekend Getaways from Chennai_Trichy_Srirangam Temple.jpg
    The stunning gopurams of Srirangam Temple

    One of the oldest inhabited cities of Tamil Nadu and my personal favourite on this list of places to visit near Chennai, Trichy is home to temples both unique and popular. From the more famous Ranganatha Swamy Temple of Srirangam to the little known Rockfort Temple.

    Second in size only to the Angkor Wat, Srirangam occupies an entire islet in Trichy and is the largest functioning Hindu temple in the world

    The Rockfort Temple is a series of cave temples inside an ancient rock that dates back to over a billion years ago. The  Jambukeshwara Temple is yet another one  of interest in Trichy for all architecture lovers. Also here is the ancient Kallanai Dam, more commonly known as the Grand Anaicut which is a picturesque digression from all the temples.

    One can also extend the trip by driving to Thanjavur or Kumbakonam, both towns boast of ancient temples of stunning architecture.

    Getting There | There are regular flights from Chennai to Trichy everyday. By road the drive to Trichy takes around six hours. There are also connecting trains between the two cities.

    Read  Stories from Trichy

    From a billion years ago.

    5. Thanjavur

    Distance from Chennai  | 320 Kilometres
    Best Time to Visit |
    Dry, cool months. January – March.

    Weekend Getaways from Chennai_Thanjavur_Darasuram.jpg
    Airavateeswara Temple in Darasuram, one of the three great living chola temples in Thanjavur

    In and around Thanjavur are ‘The Great Living Chola Temples’, three grand temple complexes dating back to the 11th and 12th centuries. These UNESCO classified world heritage sites make Thanjavur one of the best destinations in the country for architecture & history enthusiasts.

    But this historical town earns its position on this list of places to visit near Chennai not just for this but also because it is the go-to shopping destination for art lovers and connoisseurs.  It is from Thanjavur that the strikingly beautiful gold laid Tanjore Paintings come from.

    The Thanjavur Maratha Palace along with its museum dedicated to the Chola heritage of the region is another tourist attraction here that is worth a visit.

    Getting There | Nearest Airport is Trichy. One would have to fly to Trichy and drive down to Thanjavur, which takes about one and  a half hours. But, there are frequent trains and buses from Chennai to Thanjavur.

    Read  Stories from Thanjavur

    Hello, Kumbakonam Filter Kaapi.
    Great Living Chola Temples : Vol I
    Great Living Chola Temples : Vol II

    6. Madurai

    Distance from Chennai  | 460 Kilometres
    Best Time to Visit |
    All year round.

    Madurai is Tamil Nadu’s pride and the illustrious Meenakshi Amman temple here is truly a marvel. One cannot help but lose oneself in the labyrinth of courtyards in this sprawling temple complex of immense proportions.

    Its fourteen Dravidian style gopurams etched in beautiful detail and intense colour dominate the city’s skyline. So striking is this temple that it has even inspired full blown life size movie sets in the South.

    Getting There | Madurai is connected to Chennai via regular flights, trains and buses. By road, it is an eight hour journey from Chennai to Madurai.

    7. Kodaikanal

    Distance from Chennai  | 525 Kilometres
    Best Time to Visit |
    Summer. March – June.

    Driving through the western ghats to get to Kodaikanal –  this beautiful hill station that often serves as a less crowded alternative to the more famous Ooty –   is in itself a pleasurable experience. It sure is the ideal destination for a leisurely  holiday, for here you can spend your days amongst the mist rolled hills indulging in home made chocolates and boating in the Kodai Lake.

    Getting There | One can get to Kodaikanal from either Coimbatore or Madurai. The drive to Kodaikanal takes anywhere between three to four hours from either of the airports. There are direct trains and buses too that ply regularly between Chennai and Kodaikanal.

    8. Rameshwaram

    Distance from Chennai  | 540 Kilometres
    Best Time to Visit |
    All year round.

    One of the major Hindu pilgrimage sites in the country, Rameswaram is where Rama worshipped Shiva or Eswara as he is also known,  giving this unique holy city its name.

    It is also believed that it was from here, in Rameshwaram, that Rama built the bridge to Lanka to bring back Sita after defeating Ravana.

    But it is the Ramanathaswamy Temple here that brings the most travellers to this Ramayana site. This temple of the many sculpted corridors is a shining example of beautiful Indian architecture. The outer corridor alone has over a thousand carved pillars that taper off into what looks like an exquisitely painted tunnel.

    Add to it the beauty of Pamban Island itself, the island on which this temple town is located and Rameshwaram becomes the one destination on the list of places to visit near Chennai that just cannot be missed!

    Getting There | Nearest Airport is Madurai and the drive from Madurai to Rameshwaram takes around three and a half hours. By train or bus, it is an overnight journey.

    Travel with me. Come find me on Instagram, Facebook or Twitter.
  • Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Sri Kalahasti

    Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Sri Kalahasti

    Legends surround Sri Kalahasti, the temple town near South India’s most popular pilgrimage centre, Tirupati. Home to the ancient Shiva temple, the Sri Kalahasteeswara Temple, this town has been the centre of many legends, stories and folk lore.

    But it isn’t as widely known that this town in Andhra Pradesh’s Chittoor district also boasts of something that is in fact more renowned than the temple itself. Kalamkari.

    Kalamkari_7

    Literally meaning craftsmanship of the pen, Kalamkari refers to the hand painted cotton fabric that is counted amongst one of the most beautiful traditional Indian art forms.

    Kalamkari_4

    The Sri Kalahasteeswara Temple was originally built in the 5th century by the Pallavas under the shadow of a hill by the banks of the River Swarnamukhi. This was later extended by the Cholas in the 11th and 12th centuries. But it was in the 16th century, under Sri Krishnadeva Raya that it was most celebrated. And from then on, it hasn’t been just a mythical place of worship but the fountainhead for art and culture.

    Vilasini Natyam, which is the traditional temple dance form, also originated here.

    & what started out back then as a hand painted backdrop for the deities in the temple is what has today evolved to become one of the most appreciated fabric there is, purely for its artistic value.

    That there is the story of Kalamkari.

    But, there is more. For there is a variant, a different school of Kalamkari art that flourished under the Mughals and Qutb Shahis of Golconda. Here the fabric is block printed rather than hand painted and the motifs are more Persian than religious. This form of Kalamkari is produced in the town Machilipatnam, yet another town in Andhra Pradesh where flowing water is readily available.  For whatever be the art form, it almost always draws inspiration from the society of the time, the geography of the land and availability of indigenous raw materials. And flowing water is an essential to the process of creating the Kalamkari textile.

    Before the actual process of art begins, the cotton fabric has to be prepped for drawing by washing it in water and soaking it in milk. A master artist then draws the design freehand in bold black strokes using a charcoal pencil.

    Kalamkari_2

    The cloth is then soaked once again, this time in boiling water before colours are filled in by the artisans using a bamboo kalam (pen).

    Kalamkari_1
    Kalamkari_3.jpg

    The colours are always natural and made from ingredients like indigo and myrobalan fruit.

    Kalamkari_6
    From sarees and dupattas to bed linen, this hand painted cotton fabric is considered hip and not just in the art circles. There is a huge demand for it today not just in India but internationally as well. Which is probably why now the Kalamkari motifs have grown to be so ubiquitous that you see them everywhere from bags to utility trays even.


    Explorers Guide

    Distance from Chennai: 116 Kilometres
    Distance from Tirupati: 36 Kilometres
    Trip Duration: One Day
    Getting There: Less than an hours drive from Tirupati, this trip can be a detour on your journey there. One can also drive down from Chennai, shop and get back, all in a day.


    Read More on Other Artisan Villages of India:

    Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Uppada
    Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh:  Karipakam
    Artisan Villages of Telangana: Nirmal
    Artisan Villages of Telangana: Cheriyal


  • Streets of Pondicherry – Part II: Architecture

    Streets of Pondicherry – Part II: Architecture

    They say if you can’t afford a ticket to Europe, travel to Pondicherry instead.

    Stroll through the white part of town and be transported in time and place to a laid back French town. Or just wander the streets to absorb the distinctive Franco-Tamil culture of the place.

    Pondicherry Architecture_2

    Pondicherry Architecture_1

    This small seaside town has a lot to offer for those who are looking for a leisurely laid-back holiday.

    There is always coffee and croissants to intersperse your endless explorations with. For, Puducherry is blessed with both – cafes & heritage – in abundance! 

    Pondicherry Architecture_5

    Once an important port of call and a very prominent fortified town, as it changed hands, it was razed to ground and its ramparts flattened to what are today the tree lined boulevards of Pondicherry.

    Pondicherry Architecture_4a

    Laid out in a grid, the town is divided into the French and Tamil quarters by a storm water canal.

    Both these quarters are so distinctive that you can tell which part of town you are in just from colour and style of the houses that go from classical European architecture to vernacular Tamil in a step. 

    Pondicherry Architecture_8

    Pondicherry Architecture_3

    Pondicherry Architecture_11

    Pondicherry Architecture_10

    As a lingering shadow of its European past follows you along its every street or rue as it known here, the historical richness of this town comes to life. In its art & architecture.

    Pondicherry Architecture_13.jpg

    So what could possibly be a better way to discover this quaint little town than via Heritage Walks and Cycle Tours!

    My first day in Pondicherry, I walked 9.6 kilometres to be exact. Discovering urban street art and restored heritage bungalows.

    Pondicherry Architecture_9

    Besides, in this town of neat little blocks, self reliance comes easy to a girl, who just wants to explore, camera in hand.

    I have been to Pondicherry thrice. & my longing for it only gets the stronger. :)

    Pondicherry Arcchitecture_12


    PS: INTACH or The Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage has been working with the Government of Pondicherry and its public to conserve and restore the unprotected architectural heritage and townscape of Pondicherry. Almost all of the heritage buildings you see today have been brought back to life by them. Even the rocks to tame the sea on the famous promenade were by them.

    They conduct heritage walks in the white town every morning and evening.  Ending on the promenade, this hour long walk is a perfect way to to get to the beach just in time for dusk.


    Read First: Streets of Pondicherry – Part I: Art


     

  • The Great Living Chola Temples – Vol I: Brihadeeswara Temple

    The Great Living Chola Temples – Vol I: Brihadeeswara Temple

    In and around Thanjavur are The Great Living Chola Temples, three temple complexes dating back to the 11th and 12th centuries. Built by the Cholas, who were undoubtedly one of the most powerful monarchies of South India that ruled for over four and a half centuries, all of these ancient temples are ‘living temples’ – classified as such by UNESCO on their World Heritage List – in the sense that the pattern of worship and rituals established over a thousand years ago continue as is, to this day.

    Thanjavur, mostly known for the Tanjore (Thanjavur) Paintings that are unique to this region, is home to the first of these Great Living Chola Temples. Locally known as the Big Temple, this is the Brihadeeswara Temple in Thanjavur. The grandest of the three.

    20160818_110450 copy 2

    As the region passed on from the Cholas to the Nayaks and then to the Marathas over the centuries, a few additions were made to the temple complex, from protective fort walls to murals and minor temples. One such are the beautiful frescos painted onto the ceiling of the Mandapam housing the massive 25 tonne monolithic Nandi, mount of Lord Shiva or Brihadeeswara, as he is in this temple.

    Monolithic Nandi at Thanjavur's Big Temple copy

    & this particular mural is undoubtedly reminiscent of the famous Tanjore Paintings, all it needs is a little touch of gold!

    20160818_110525 copy

    Everything about this temple is big. The 20 feet Nandi, the 15 feet Dwarapalakas guarding the entrances, the 216 feet Vimana towering over the Sanctum Sanctorum that has to be two storeyed to house the  huge Shiva Lingam (lingam form of the presiding deity).

    DSC_0790 copy

    The Vimana built over a base tier of two levels rises to dizzying heights, carrying on it an octagonal stone Shikhara which itself weighs 81 tonnes.

    Ancient inscriptions refer to this Vimana as Dakshina Meru, implying it to be Mount Meru of the South or Maha Meru, Lord Shiva’s mountain abode.

    It is said that a special ramp was constructed to carry the Shikhara up, to install on the Vimana, from a site six kilometres away and that more than a thousand elephants were required in the construction of this temple. Which is probably one of most the magnificent of Indian temples.

    DSC_0784 copy copy copy 2

    In fact, the city of Thanjavur itself was created with the deliberate intention of establishing it as a Bhakti centre. So, here is this impressively massive Big Temple at its heart and radiating out from it is the city, growing in concentric circuits starting from the inner quadrangle of the temple.

    N

    A colonnade of sandstone columns run all along the inner perimeter of the temple forming a circumambulatory path or Prakara. Though the Prakara itself dates back to the original construction, the 108 Shiva Lingas set against the stunning backdrop of beautiful murals painted on these stone walls are a 16th century addition.

    DSC_0765 copy 2

    DSC_0779 copy copy 2

    UNESCO World Heritage Site India

    20160818_105128 copy copy 7.48.21 PM

    UNESCO World Heritage Site India

     

    The main temple itself occupies the rear half of the inner quadrangle, while two colossal Gopurams (gates)  – Keralaanthagan & Rajarajan – into which are carved monolithic stone sculptures, lead the way.

    DSC_0741 2

    Exemplifying the pure Dravidian style of architecture, these Chola Temples are not significant not just archaeologically but culturally as well. For it is believed that the Cholas built their temples not just as places for their people to get together and pray but to serve as epicentres of economic activity.

    No trip to Thanjavur would be complete without witnessing these marvels of workmanship. The sheer size of these temples will cause you to wonder, muse on the scale at which affairs of state were once carried out!

    The other two temples which together with the Big Temple form this unique group of living temples are the Brihadeeswara Temple at Gangaikonda Cholapuram and the Airavateswara Temple at Darasuram.


    Explorers Guide

    Getting There: Begin your day trip with the Brihadeeswara Temple in Thanjavur, drive on to the Airavateswara Temple, Darasuram, making a quick pitstop for lunch along the way on this 37 Kilometres stretch. Complete the circuit with the Brihadeeswara Temple, Gangaikonda Cholapuram. The 72 Kilometres drive from here, back to Thanjavur will take around 2 hours.


    PS: Here is a super shaky video of a few of the brilliant murals in the Prakara.

    Decided to add this here to the post, inspite of it being such a terrible attempt at shooting video because, I do want to share with you atleast a glimpse of the natural dye frescos that are such a fine example of ancient Indian artistry.

  • From a billion years ago.

    From a billion years ago.

    Thwack. Down came the elephant’s trunk on my head, in a gesture of blessing. I was surprised at how gentle it was, gentle giants indeed.

    We were in Trichy, Tamil Nadu to attend a wedding at our family friends’ home and the temple elephant was here to bless the newly weds, to flag off their journey together on an auspicious note. Even though I grew up in a traditional South Indian family this was completely unexpected. After all, it isn’t everyday that a majestic elephant walks into a wedding!

    But, knowing where I was, it shouldn’t have come as a surprise.

    Amongst the many interpretations of how this town got its name, one that particularly sticks in this case is that, Tiruchirapalli could have come from Tiruchinnapalli, which when broken down means Holy Little Town. Or even Tirussilapalli, meaning Holy Rock Town. Which brings us to the Rockfort Temple.

    Tiruchirapalli or Trichy as one familiarly calls it, has always been an important religious centre for the Hindus with many a prolific and ancient temple peppered around town. From the more famous Ranganatha Swamy temple of Srirangam to the Rockfort Temple, which has come to be a symbol of this temple town.

    I am yet to see a temple so striking and haughty in its simplicity, as this one. Sitting on a 272 feet rock, right in the centre of Trichy, it draws your gaze in, from wherever in the city you are, like a pivot.

    So, here is where we went first, this intriguing fort-temple on the rock.

    DSC_0729 copy 2

    As we wound our way through the busy bazaar at the foot of the rock, I really did not know what to expect. There were the usual lines of people going about their prayers – visible from the busy street – in the Ganesh Temple which was right there. But did Ucchi Pillayar Kovil not mean Ganesh temple at the top, literally?

    It was then that our guide explained to us that there are two rock cut temples in the fort, the lower and upper cave temples.

    20160818_080324

    Having paid our respects at the Manikka Vinayakar Temple, the lower cave temple, we began the steep climb of over 350 steps through the ancient rock that dates back to over a billion years ago.

    DSC_0684

    DSC_0691

    Of the many cave temples that we passed by, cut into this monolithic rock, the oldest was built by the Pallavas in 580 AD.

    The biggest in this complex though is the Thayumana Swamy Temple dedicated to Lord Shiva and his consort Goddess Parvathi, spanning a length of two stories in a regular building.

    DSC_0694.jpg

    DSC_0692

    20160818_081713 copy

    Stunning though it was, right from its architecture to the colourful murals painted on the walls of the cave, it is the Ganesh temple sitting right at the summit that takes your breath away.

    DSC_0708

    N

    As you come out of the caves and struggle to climb up the sheer rock face to reach this temple, you are bound to pause for breath and that is when you realise just how picturesque the panoramas that it offers of the city look.

    DSC_0701.jpg

    We did too.

    DSC_0711 copy copy 2.jpg

    As the breeze blew cool in my face I caught my first glimpse of Srirangam, from inside the Ucchi Pillayar Kovil.

    20160818_083028 copy.jpg


    Explorers Guide

    Distance from Chennai: 335 kilometers
    Trip Duration: Weekend
    Getting There: Sitting right in the center of Tamil Nadu, Trichy can be reached by road from Chennai in 6 hours. There are also regular flights from Chennai to Trichy.


    Read More on Temples in Tamil Nadu:

    The Great Living Chola Temples: Vol I
    The Great Living Chola Temples: Vol II


     

  • Streets of Pondicherry – Part I: Art

    Streets of Pondicherry – Part I: Art

    New Settlement. That is Pudicheri for you. Interpreted into Pondicherry by and for the French.

    From the Romans who came here to trade in the 1st century AD to the Portuguese who returned in 1521 to trade in textiles, Pondicherry has had a colourful legacy. Not the Pallavas, Cholas, Pandyas, Sangamas or the Mughals; not even the Dutch or British could lay claim to this town. It has and will always be French.

    Atleast  as Tamil as it can get, but with a constant presence of its French past.


    The historical richness of this town comes to life in its Art & Architecture. A lingering shadow of its European past in its every street.

    So, come walk with me.

    A leisurely stroll through the streets of Pondicherry, as you discover yet another piece of Urban Art, just around the corner.

    img_7005-copy-2


    To be continued in Streets of Pondicherry – Part II: Architecture

     

    More on Pondicherry:
    Pondicherry, Racist much?

  • Pondicherry, Racist much?

    Pondicherry, Racist much?

    Pondicherry has South India’s most distinctive sub culture. They say if you can’t afford a ticket to Europe, travel to Pondicherry instead. Stroll through the white part of town and be transported in time and place to a laid back French town where cafes cool and inviting are at every turn.

    But, just how racist are you Puducheri?

    Does the storm water canal that separates the French and Tamil quarters into neat little grids of White Town and Black Town also exist in your mind?


    bp48_1

    This is Cafè des Arts. It is the most popular Cafe in Pondicherry. Rated #1 on Trip Advisor with a Certificate of Excellence to boot.

    Here, Indians are not welcome.

    & this is what transpired in the cafe and on Trip Advisor.

    bp48_2

    “so when we ask you to wait, we are trying to please your comfort”

    Completely missed the point did they? Or do the tone, the numbers and the smattering of French point to something now not just obvious but also reiterated and reinforced??

    Forget about being “asked to wait”, if only we were even acknowledged.

    *Sigh*

    We are the same people, the very same Indians  who wait endlessly in queues outside the Kamats and Rajdhanis of the world for one simple meal.


    Cafè des Arts

    10, Suffren Street
    White Town, Puducherry

    +91 9994481914

    Open: 8:30 am – 7 pm, all days except Tuesdays

    Cafe des Arts Menu, Reviews, Photos, Location and Info - Zomato


    We were refused a table at Villa Shanti too. It is the next ‘Most Popular Cafe in Pondicherry’. We were told they did not have a table, while we all stood in the foyer, right there in an empty cafe. On our second visit there, as we pushed past the half closed door, we were ushered in with a grimace from the very same head waiter. Well, every other cafe in Pondicherry was closed because of the Jalli Kattu protests going on that day. Though we definitely felt unwelcome and awkward, the food was good and the experience “okay”.

    This is the same Pondicherry where Indian citizens were once offered a choice of French Citizenship as an era came to an end. It is the same Pondicherry where old war veterans, till today, turn up on the streets in the full glory of their erstwhile military uniform on Bastille Day every year.

    It is also the same Pondicherry that I so love, for in its neat little blocks, self reliance comes easy to a girl who just wants to explore, camera in hand.


     

     

  • Into The Jungle: Tada Falls

    Into The Jungle: Tada Falls

    Ubbalamadugu in Andhra Pradesh is a popular trekking and road trip destination from Chennai. Located in Tada, deep in the jungle of Satyavedu just north of the Sri City SEZ, these waterfalls are more commonly known as Tada Falls.

    A short walk through the trail gets you to the Jungle Pools and this is a lush green shady oasis where the water from the falls travels downhill to form clear cool pools. Which also gives this place its name, derived from the the telugu words Ubbari Madugu meaning spring pool. A further trek of 10 kms through the hilly terrain brings you to the actual waterfalls. But this is where you should stop, for though the trek is quite scenic it isn’t really a great trek for girls and a definite no-no if you are not with a group.

    In fact, halfway along the trail, once we a caught a glimpse of the distant falls, we turned back because of that unmistakable feeling of unease to go ahead, heightened only by the isolated feel of the place and the groups of youngsters looking to break free! Even the monkeys don’t venture too far out here and like to stick around in the spots where they are sure to find leftover chips and coke.

    It is nevertheless a beautiful place, so depending on the size of the group you are travelling with and the time of the day, you could pace your exploration.

    20160109_113450 - edited.jpg

    _DSC7996 (1).jpg

    _DSC7912

    _DSC8016 (1)

    Ubbalamadugu Waterfalls_Tada Falls

    _DSC7969 (1).jpg

    umadugu edited

    _DSC8022.jpg


     

  • Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Karipakam

    Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Karipakam

    South Indian Silk Sarees have always been known for their elegance. Be it from Telangana, Andhra, Karnataka or Tamil Nadu, every saree is unique in its design and technique to the region.  & these sarees are usually eponymous of the region they come from.

    One such are the Patur Sarees, which are quite in fashion today. Cotton, Silk and Zari (gold thread) threads are hand-woven together to craft these beautiful cotton silk sarees from the Village of Patur in Nellore District and the adjoining Village of Karipakam in Chittoor District.

    _DSC8961

    There were around 150 weavers in Karipakam once. Today there are only 50, the lack of patronage pushing them to find work in nearby factories. Even the working conditions are not much to speak of. Though the dying of threads and getting them ready is more of an outdoor activity, the actual weaving is done in a pit loom.

    What little work now comes into the village comes from the head weaver, who gets designs from speciality retail stores like Nalli Silks and distributes it amongst the weavers.

    x

    _DSC8079 (1)

    Since, the mainstay of the village is this craft, all the villagers/weavers get together every morning to dye silk and cotton threads sourced from different places. It is a sight to see. So, if you wish to see the weavers at work, do visit the village on a sunny morning. Sunny mornings, for even the weather needs to be conducive. Too much moisture in the air dampens the thread which makes it difficult for the colour to stick.

    _DSC8066 (1).jpg

    Once, the patterns and the spindles of thread are ready, they are loaded onto the loom  and the weaving begins. Keeping with the trend and also the rules set by the buying companies, a design is not usually repeated.

    Zari motifs are hand-woven into the saree, which takes 2-3 days to finish depending on the number of colours in the pattern. If the same saree were to be made on a power loom, these would have to be sewn on to the saree separately.

    _9.jpg

    and, this is what sets these gorgeous lightweight sarees apart.

    Starting at Rs.2,500/-, the sarees can be bought directly from the weavers houses.


    Explorers Guide

    Karipakam Map.jpg

    Getting There
    By Road – The most convenient way to get there is to drive down from Tirupati. This takes a little over an hour.
    By Air – Nearest airports are Tirupati and Chennai.
    By Rail – Nearest railway station is at Sullurpet.

    Stay
    Big Stay serviced apartments at Tada. With over 200 rooms, Indian, Oriental & Continental cuisines catering to people of all nationalities visiting/working at the Sri City SEZ and a travel desk that arranges your airport drop and pick up, they ensure a comfortable stay.

    Things To Do
    Trekking at Naagala Hills.
    Kayaking at the creek in Sri City.

    Nearby Places of Interest
    Pulicat Lake – India’s second largest salt-water lagoon, it is the winter home to numerous migratory birds from Central Asia, of which Flamingos and Pelicans number the most. The state tourism department hosts a Flamingo Festival here in January every year.
    Nelapattu Bird Sanctuary – Also known as Pelican Paradise, it is counted amongst the popular bird sanctuaries of India.
    Ubbalamadugu – Jungle Pools and waterfall.


    Read More on Artisan Villages of India:

    Artisan Villages of Telangana: Nirmal
    Artisan Villages of Telangana: Cheriyal
    Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Sri Kalahasti
    Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Uppada


     

  • Go Flamingo, Go!

    Go Flamingo, Go!

    The Flamingo Festival in Andhra Pradesh is an annual affair by the State Government to increase awareness about the conservation of Flamingos, which make the Pulicat Lake their winter home. As far as I know, this 3 day festival has been happening since 2012, in January every year at the Pulicat & Nelapattu Bird Sanctuaries of Andhra Pradesh.

    Only this year, there was not a Flamingo in sight.

    20160109_093259.jpg

    The Pulicat Lake, which is the second largest salt-water lagoon in India, is the winter home to numerous Birds from Central Asia (of which Flamingos and Pelicans number the most). These birds come from as far as Siberia to as near as Ladakh, to mate and nest. Looking to escape the chill, they fly across continents, traversing thousands of miles of ocean.

    Read: The Flamingo Story

    and, what do they find when they finally reach here, their winter home?

    Desolation.

    Pulicat Lake, January 2015.

    To get here you take the road to Sri Hari Kota, an Island off the coast of Bay of Bengal that houses the Satellite Launching Station of ISRO. This is a stretch of around 15km of road with the Pulicat Lake on either side, for as far as you can see.

    When I had gone here last year, I had never seen anything like it before. The horizon was pink with flamingos and this ‘Road Through The Lake’ was like no other.

    BP15_MG_0259

    IMG_0316 (1).jpg

    IMG_0241 (1)

    IMG_0226

    IMG_0252 (1)

    IMG_0304 (1)

    Pulicat Lake_8.jpg

    IMG_0295 (1)

    Sorry, no clear shots of  the flamingos. :( This was all that I could get on my phone camera.

    IMG_0320 (1).jpg

    Pulicat Lake, NOW. January 2016.

    Today the Pulicat Lake is totally choked up with sand, thanks to the roads being laid across it cutting off its water inflow from the ocean and making it unsustainable for marine life. 30,000 fishermen once depended on this lake for their livelihood.

    Words fail me, as I try to describe the deliberate devastation brought to this place.

    The experience of driving on that road-through the lake-to the Island, went from one end of the spectrum to the other, just like that!

    No water, no marine life, no flamingos. NADA.

    N

    Pulicat Lake_Flamingos Andhra

    _DSC8046

    N

    I have been writing this post in my head for 15 days now, but every time I add a photo or a word to the actual draft I can only feel that I am not able to do justice to the situation with my words or photographs. So here is a 15sec video from last year, which I hope paints a more accurate picture of the now no longer existent tranquil life of the Birds of Pulicat Lake.

    One can only hope that measures are taken to reverse the damage and the Flamingos come back some day!

     


    Read Next: Into The Jungle