Tag: Travel Portraits

  • Human by Nature: Kumarakom on Vembanad Lake

    Human by Nature: Kumarakom on Vembanad Lake

    Kerala, a land of magical fables and lyrical stories. A land that I first discovered through its stories. Growing up as I did, reading stories told by the many gifted writers of my country. Stories that were so intensely humane that I couldn’t help but be drawn into that world, a world of overwhelmingly beautiful landscapes teeming with life that drew its very living force from a culture that was both singular and diverse at once. A culture that had welcomed many a different people from places near and far, a culture that absorbed and grew alongside its people, as the land went through a rich and varied history of its own. 

    From rambling along the river Nila unravelling and understanding human emotions through Anita Nair’s Mistress to being thrown into the heady spice gardens of Salman Rushide’s The Moors Last Sigh, I had journeyed through Kerala vicariously for years. If I had just about got a taste of the cultural pluralism of Kerala then, through the eyes Rushdie’s narrator, Moor, who comes from a family which began when a Goan Catholic of Portuguese descent married a Cochin Jew of Spanish descent. It was on my road trip through Kerala in 2018 aboard the Kerala Blog Express that I actually got to witness it and live it.

    & when I saw this film by Kerala Tourism for their campaign Human By Nature I couldn’t help but feel it all over again. That magic in the everyday, the power of human stories, the bond between us and the nature that surrounds us and envelopes us in its warm hug.

    Kumarakom on Vembanad Lake

    On my last trip there, as our houseboat made its way back from Alleppey drifting along lazily on the backwaters, we sat on the deck of our houseboat gazing at the idyllic scenery watching the villages go by. And on a whim decided to make a quick pit stop at one of them. Kumarakom

    Kumarakom on Vembanad Lake, Kerala’s largest and India’s longest lake is a cluster of tiny islands that is famous not just for its sprawling bird sanctuary but also for being a quieter alternative to Alleppey. Making it the ideal destination for those looking to get a feel of the Kerala backwaters, but at a leisurely pace.

    As we got off our boat onto the meandering dirt path into the village, afternoon was just turning to evening and the village was stirring back to life, and I couldn’t help but think of  a life where afternoon siestas were but a way of life!

    Experiencing village life at Kumarakom

    Walking through the village we were greeted with welcoming smiles and that was all the encouragement that our curiosity needed. We spent our evening stopping at houses, crossing over wooden bridges to nearby farms, looking in on people going about their business.

    Sometimes even trying our hand at these jobs to sometimes just being content watching. We got to meet and talk to people working at varied traditional jobs – from coir making and mat weaving to catch net fishing and toddy tapping.  

    Travel today has evolved beyond checking off things to do on a pre planned itinerary. Seeking authentic experiences, connecting with the land that we are travelling through local people, food, customs and culture has become the very essence of travel. To have experienced this, a slice of life along the Vembanad Lake in Kumarakom, Kerala surely made us human all over again. 

    Here’s to a renewed sense of appreciation to everything ‘Human by Nature’, to a life of peace and oneness where man, animal and nature co exist in symbiotic harmony.

    For magic can exist in a land where majestic beings are not just revered as gods and loved as family but also get to star in celebrated stories. Take for instance, Sooryamangalam Sreeganeshan, the elephant who is the narrator and protagonist of The Tusk That Did The Damage by Tania James.

    NOTE: This is a sponsored post written in collaboration with Kerala Tourism under the Human by Nature campaign. The content of the post is completely my own, drawn from my own experiences in Kerala.

  • In the Nomadic Settlement of Puga

    In the Nomadic Settlement of Puga

    Snow crunched under my heavy boots as I stepped out of the heated SUV, into the freezing winter of Ladakh. It was -16 degrees and we had just arrived in Puga, a little nomadic village in the Changthang valley.

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    Located in the Eastern Ladakh Region of Jammu and Kashmir, Puga is a geothermal field and the site where the nomads of Changthang settle down for the winter and tend to their animals in the sub zero Himalayan temperatures.

    This 12 kilometer stretch of Himalayan valley in the Changthang Wildlife Sanctuary has been identified as one of the important geo thermal sites in India by the Geological Survey. This winter home of the Changpas is a  harsh and unpredictable land interspersed with geysers and hot springs and come winter it is blanketed in snow.

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    Changpas are Tibetan Nomads who follow the same migratory routes in Ladakh every year, only to settle in Puga for the four cold months. Staying in the same encampments, these ‘Nomadic Pastoralists’ bring their livestock to the same seasonal pastures every year.

    The Changpas rear yaks, horses, sheep and also ofcourse the famous ‘pashmina’ goats. The geo thermal ice fields of Puga serve them well as winter pastures for the snow and its melt bring greenery to this high altitude cold desert.It is an important season for the nomads for January and February are the birthing months for their cattle and it is also when the pashmina fur grows.

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    Here is where we stopped for lunch, Puga, setting up kitchen in one of the stone walled corrals. By the time we had warmed ourselves with some Kashmiri Qawah, we were surrounded by curious eyes and runny noses. Little nomads were every where, shy but interested in the newcomers all bundled up in their down jackets.

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    tenzin-palayu-with-her-dog

    “That’s my dog, see, he is a nomad dog” said Tenzin in hesitant but clear English, perceptive to the point that she knows that we regular people would find anything ‘nomadic’ fascinating.

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    Hanle, which is 115 kilometers from Puga is where she goes to school. Sumdho is the closest town though, we had passed it on our way here and I had naturally assumed this is where these little ones in this remote corner of India, who spoke such good English would go to school.

    Only in conversing with her did I realise just how far across the Himalayas the Changpas traversed for livelihood.

    The Changthang Wildlife Sanctuary is spread across India and Tibet and historically the Changpas of Ladakh would migrate with their herds into Tibet. But with how things are politically today, this is no longer an option for them.


    Explorers Guide 

    Getting There: Puga is at a distance of 180 kilometers from Leh, the largest and the one town in the region that has all the amenities that one is used to otherwise. Read network coverage. It would be wiser to drive to Chumathang though, stay overnight  and do a day trip to Puga from there on. Chumathang to Puga is less than 40 kilometers but the route will take a good 4 hours, so start early!

    Stay: Chumathang Hot Springs Guest House. They have heaters in some of their rooms & that sure is luxury for a winter in Ladakh.


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    PS: Know a friend who would love to explore this non touristy side of Ladakh? Then, please do share this post and spread the love!


    Read Next: Little Ones of Ladakh


    Read More on Ladakh:

    5 Reasons Why You Should Travel to Ladakh Off-Season
    Celebrating Life & Beyond
    Royal Ruins: Shey Palace
    In The Realm of The Passes: Khardung La


     

  • Ladakh Festival: Celebrating Life & Beyond.

    Ladakh Festival: Celebrating Life & Beyond.

    The Ladakh Festival is an annual week-long gala organised by the Tourism Department of the Jammu & Kashmir Government every September in Leh and its surrounding villages. Local communities along with the district administrations of Leh come together to showcase the culture and traditions of this land of stunning landscape to the visiting tourists, for after all the region survives and thrives on tourism.

    This year starting off with an opening ceremony in Leh today, it is on till the 26th of this month. I was there for the Ladakh Festival 2015 and Ladakh is not the cards for me this year – atleast for now – so here I am reliving those memories through last year’s photos

    Ladakh Festival_Ladakhis

    According to the rich heritage of this former Himalayan Kingdom, every important occasion in a person’s lifetime is marked by feasting and dancing to folk songs, be it a birth, marriage, the beginning of a new year or even the start of a season when the flowers begin to bloom. The most popular ones though are the Monastic Festivals celebrated to commemorate the founding of a monastery. What with Ladakh having found a place in every Photographer’s heart and Travel Enthusiast’s bucket list, these festivals only seem to grow in scale every year. As summer comes to an end, both the festivals and the tourists begin to go back to easier terrains and the Ladakh Festival comes at just such a time, tempting you to stay back just a while longer.

    On the first day of the festival, all the locals participating and performing at the cultural events in the opening ceremony start off in a procession, dressed in traditional attire. Some of who even bring out the rare antique jewellery, headgear, jackets and such that have been in their family for generations and which cannot now be duplicated by the modern day artisans. As these groups of local leaders, tribal men and women, artisits and school children weave their way through the Leh market to the Polo Grounds where the inaugural ceremony of the festival is held, you can only be spell bound by the colour you see and the beauty of happy locals against the stark backdrop of their desert landscape.

    Ladakh Festival_ Ladakhi Culture

    Ladakh Festival_ Ladakhi Culture

    Ladakh Festival_ Ladakhi Culture

    Also Read: Little Ones of Ladakh

    At the Polo grounds, it is time to settle down and take in the show that is being put on not just by the natives of the region but also by those Tibetan refugees who have made India their home.

    Experience their way of life and age old traditions through the masked rituals, folk songs & music and even through the reenactment of royal court dances.

    Ladakh Festival_ Ladakhi Culture

    As most of their festivals celebrate life, besides seeking peace and warding off evil, the performance to their folk song of Marriage is the most intriguing. Marriage ceremonies in Ladakh begin with the boy’s family sending Chaang or the local beer to the girl’s family, from when start the many events that culminate in the wedding feast. One such ceremony is the Nyopjhol, where Nyopas i.e the bridegroom’s friends go to the brides house to fetch her. This ceremony depicted in dance form at the festival is a sight to see, as spectacularly dressed ladakhis in the ceremonial costume of the Nyopas – who play a very important role all the through the wedding – dance to the Marriage Song in accompaniment to the music played on the traditional instruments, Daman and Surna.

    Ladakh Festival_ Ladakhi Culture

    Ladakh Festival_ Ladakhi Culture

    The cultural programmes in Leh end by afternoon, after which the festival then moves on to other parts of Ladakh. All in all, the Ladakh Festival is a wonderful way to experience the culture and heritage of this region, so if you are planning a trip to Ladakh do take into account this festival!

     


    Read Next: Of Sunny Days & Brisk Breezes


  • Little Ones of Ladakh

    Little Ones of Ladakh

    I was never interested in shooting portraits, or so I thought!

    Standing still, on the sidelines, as columns of brilliantly dressed Ladakhis walked by to the Polo Grounds for the Opening Ceremony of the Ladakh Festival, I watched. The multitude of tourists and photographers clamouring to capture everything. It stuck me. I was just a shy mouse.

    Embarrassed though I was, I did make a not-so-successful attempt at clicking the performers as they made their way to the Ladakh Festival. So, over the week as I journeyed through these Himalayan lands, I tried to remedy this. I overcame my natural inhibitions & clicked portraits of the kids I became friendly with.

    & seeing their eager smiles as they hugged my camera close and stuck their noses to the screen gave me more satisfaction than anything else on this trip!!

    So, here you go.

    This little girl was the perfect model & gave me the confidence to pursue travel portraits of the Little Ones of Ladakh. Which is why this is my favourite picture & therefore the first in this series.

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    I clicked this picture in Leh, as these little boys waited for their dad to take them to the Ladakh Festival.

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    & this little baby girl here, at the opening ceremony, watching the performances from the protective lap of her grandmother.

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    On our way to Tso Moriri, when we stopped at the village of Chumathang for lunch, I came across this group of children. The smallest & undoubtedly the cutest one, the little Matryoshka Doll in this photo was the subject of every photographer in that area then and by the time I got to clicking this photo she was ready to flee! While the older girl wanted her photo taken & was preening for it. Quite an interesting conflict I thought :)

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    Again a conflicting picture, where the older of the two gets very conscious as she tries to pose for the camera, on the way back from school in Thiksey.

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    To end this post, a photo of the most adorable baby boy I have ever seen, excited to be clicked as he stumbles across to the grocery downhill from Shey Palace.

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    Did you have to overcome some fear or reserve on your travels? Do tell me. Would love to get any ideas on how I can take better photos in my further travels!


    Read Next: Ladakh Festival: Celebrating Life & Beyond.


    Read More on Ladakh:

    Royal Ruins: Shey Palace
    In The Realm of The Passes: Khardung La
    5 Reasons You Should  Travel to Ladakh Off-Season
    In The Nomadic Settlement of Puga