Map In My Pocket

Tag: Thanjavur

  • Great Living Chola Temples – Vol II: Gangaikonda Cholapuram

    Great Living Chola Temples – Vol II: Gangaikonda Cholapuram

    Second on UNESCO’s list of The Great Living Chola Temples, is the Brihadeeswara Temple at Gangaikonda Cholapuram.

    In a tiny village lost in time, is this 982 year old temple. This Brihadeeswara Temple too is built on the same lines as the Big Temple in Thanjavur, complete with a massive stone sculpture of Nandi facing the main shrine. Upon the death of Rajaraja I the capital was shifted from Thanjavur to Gangaikonda Cholapuram and there came about this smaller version of the original Brihadeeswara Temple.

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    This temple complex isn’t merely structurally beautiful. It is also tranquil. Owing not just to its gentler architecture but also probably to it’s secluded location.

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    After driving around all morning and noon in the summer heat of Tamil Nadu, it was evening by the time we got here.

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    & what with the setting sun deciding to play peek-a-boo from behind the looming rain clouds, an all pervading sense of peace descended over me, as I took my time exploring, strolling around the expansive, almost deserted grounds of the temple.

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    The bronze sculptures here are said to be priceless specimens of Chola art, but it was the Simhakeni or The Lion Well, that I found singularly intriguing.

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    Explorers Guide

    Trip Duration: Day Trip
    Getting There: Road Trip from Thanjavur.
    Route: Thanjavur – Darasuram – Gangaikonda Cholapuram -Thanjavur
    (183 Kilometres)
    Distance from Thanjavur to Darasuram: 72 Kilometres
    Distance from Darasuram to Gangaikonda Cholapuram:     39 Kilometres
    Distance from Gangaikonda  Cholapuram to Thanjavur: 72 Kilometres

    Read First: The Great Living Chola Temples: Vol I

    Other Temples in Tamil Nadu:

    Rockfort Temple, Trichy

     

  • Hello, Kumbakonam Filter Kaapi.

    Hello, Kumbakonam Filter Kaapi.

    Who doesn’t love a South Indian Filter Coffee? Ask any South Indian who has grown up with the smell of a fresh brew signalling the start of every morning or a North Indian for who it is as much of a novelty as a Starbucks is to any urban Indian!!

    But, trust the Tamilians to add a dash of  zest to our plain old filter-kaapi. Served in the traditional tumbler-davara, the fun lies in mixing the strong drip brew with the sweet boiled milk and sipping it with the delicious froth on top. So, along the NH67 from Trichy to Thanjavur when Karthik, our local driver on this trip suggested we stop to taste Kumbakonam‘s celebrated Filter Coffee, we were more than game.

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    Stepping into Kumbakonam Iyer Kaapi, I was curious and there was that tiny flutter of excitement from expectation (which by the way doesn’t happen that often). From how promising this cafe looked on the outside, it definitely delivered on both how the coffee was and also on the ambience.

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    Like the classic Remington occupying centre stage at a corner table wasn’t enough for me to fall in love with this place, it came with a map hand painted in tamil on the wall, antique furniture, vintage cameras & radios that recreate a rustic atmosphere for you while adeptly keeping out the wannabe-ness that usually comes with places trying so hard to be different.

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    I was too taken up by the Coffee to really try anything else but they do serve South Indian Snacks if you are looking for a quick bite on your road trip or are only getting away from the hustle and bustle of Thanjavur. We did pick up some Coffee Powder and Savouries though. :)

    PS: I do make a mention of Karthik here because, it was thanks to him that we got to experience a couple more places than what was on our itinerary for Trichy which was in such stark contrast to the clumsy concierge at the Oberoi Udaivilas who along with the guide that they recommended were solely responsible for making our trip to Udaipur – right after – nothing short of a disaster!

    & a special thanks to Arjun Gidwani too, for working his magic with the light on some of these phone-shot photographs, specially so on that close up shot of the filter-kaapi. :D

     

    Read More on #InSearchofCoffee:

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    24 Hours in Dubai