Map In My Pocket

Tag: Travel Blog

Standing Still: Moazzam Jahi Market

Named after Moazzam Jah Bahadur, son of the seventh and last Nizam of Hyderabad, The Moazzam Jahi Market is built entirely in stone.

Modelled after the ‘Universal Stores’ of the West, construction of this popular landmark began in 1933 by the City Improvement Board, whose President was Prince Moazzam Jah. Besides being a centrally located traders centre, it was supposed to have housed the fruit market that sent fruit to the Nizam living in the Falaknuma Palace then.

On the completion of the market in 1935, a clock was installed on the Minar facing the main street crossing. Today, this Clock Tower is iconic in the Old City of Hyderabad.

The architecture of this triangular granite structure is striking in its antiquity. Which is what probably prompted Nikon to conduct a photowalk here, the first Sunday of February. It is also on the HMDA’s Heritage Buildings List.

With remarkable archways, spiral staircases, colourful doors, flocks of pigeons and a flurry of activity from the 100+ shopkeepers setting up shop and scattering grain for the birds to feed on, the courtyard is the most integral part of this building.

81 years and this market has stood still. Not much has changed but the generations of shopkeepers and the kids that stop to binge on the “famous” handmade fruit icecream.

March 5, 2016
Heart of Hyderabad: Old City

Now that I am working on the 52 Photowalks Project, I am constantly on the lookout for heritage walks and photo walks happening in the city. Seek Sherpa’s Galliyon Ke Raja was my first such.

It was great fun. Like walking around the Streets of Old City looking for subjects was not enough of an out-of-my-comfort-zone moment, there was this whole ‘Street Photography’ tag attached to it too! But, luckily for me, it was a great first. I even got to learn quite a bit on controlling the camera and understanding lenses better from the very helpful and nice ‘sherpa’ conducting the micro-tour (as they call it).

Now, no more words. I believe and hope that this time around, just the pictures are enough to tell a tale.

February 27, 2016
Of Sunny Days & Brisk Breezes

Hyderabad’s International Kite Festival found its way to a larger venue this year – away from the hustle and bustle of Necklace Road – the Aga Khan Academy near the airport.

Makara Sankranti is an important Indian Harvest Festival celebrated across the country. This day marks the return of the sun after the cold winter and is a harbinger of the coming harvest season for farmers.

Also known as Pongal in some states of the South, it gets its name from the dish that is made this day. Rice from the first harvest of the year is cooked in milk that has come to a ‘pongu’, meaning boil and sweetened with jaggery or sugar.

In Gujarat, where the biggest Kite Festival of the country takes place, it is Uttarayan. How ever many be the names that this festival is called by, the one common thread that weaves through it is the ‘flying of kites’.

India is of many religions and this is one of the celebrations that brings together, them all. For, it is believed that the custom of flying kites was brought to India by the Persian muslims!

Yes it does not make up for the nostalgia of that simple childhood joy. Of stringing up your kite with manja (thread coated with the tiniest shards of glass), running around with your spool on the terrace as you try to ‘cut’ as many kites as you can and then counting your loot at the end of it all.

But, this 2 day Kite Festival does bring to you an array of different kinds of kites from across the globe.

It is usually right after the sun rises and before the sun sets that one flies kites while it is still pleasant and the sun isn’t too sharp, but it is still breezy enough for the kites to take to the sky.

& with the setting sun, out goes the light and the International Kite Festival 2016 of Hyderabad draws to a close.

February 5, 2016
The Lost Pump House

I was born in Hyderabad, and I have lived here most of my life. But, it wasn’t until a year ago, when a friend mentioned Fox Sagar Lake, did I even become aware of its existence. He hadn’t heard of it either, till his work for a magazine helped us discover this Lake.

& This lake is beautiful. Period.

Hyderabad is known for its Hussain Sagar and The Buddha Statue there. The Hussain Sagar has an iconic status that it shares with Charminar and now, Hitec City. But, in reality, it is an extremely polluted lake that stinks up the air! Inspite of this, being the only water body in an otherwise hot and crowded city, it draws in crowds by the hundreds and even thousands on holidays. I, like everyone else, have been drawn to it too.

On the other hand, is The Fox Sagar Lake. In the city, but wide, expansive and cheerful. You can still see buildings, but at a distance.

Though not so popular with the locals, it definitely is a hit with the birds! I wasn’t really expecting to see so many birds of such varied species. Truth be told, I did not even know what to expect. All we did was follow the route traced out on Google Maps!!

But, what adds to the charm of this Lake and makes it so special is the antiquated Pump House built on it.

Nearly 120 years old, the lake and pump house were apparently built by the Nizam of Hyderabad as part of his program for bringing in water to the city. There is even an 1897 inscribed on its dome! :D

You reach the pump house by a stretch of narrow elevated road, which is more of a dirt trail sloping off on either side with thorny shrubs as barricades. So, the only way to reach it is by foot or by a bike. When we had gone there do a recce of this place, we were driving as suggested by google maps and we were already on this road with no where else to go but ahead! Some careful manoeuvering did get us there, but I wouldn’t suggest this.

Walking is more fun anyway, for then you notice more.

The Pump House is a beautiful structure which also creates gorgeous, intricate shadow patterns with the sun’s rays. You would not be able to resist clicking pictures of it!

Waiting – literally – just around the corner is a view just as picturesque if not more. You can go around the ledge for a beautiful view of the lake and the breathtaking quality of it is enhanced not only by the absolute vertical drop from there, but the cool breeze blowing in your face.

Well, finding not just water but in a place that is relatively un-intruded upon by man, plus the bonus of a cool tranquil breeze is a very rare occurrence here, so, I am sorry if I go a little overboard with my adjectives!!

PS: This fellow here, gets a special mention for just being so cute! He led us to the lake after ascertaining the ‘goodness’ of each of us.

January 2, 2016
Islands of Singapore: Pulau Ubin

Just off the coast of mainland Singapore is Pulau Ubin, a boomerang shaped island, meaning ‘Granite Island’.

This was once home to thousands of settlers dependent on granite quarrying. Though abandoned since the 1970s and reclaimed by nature, these quarries remain a picturesque relic of the past.

Now, the few remaining villagers subsist on farming and fishing.

The fact that, this is the one last bit of the heavily urbanised Singapore that still retains its rustic village ways is what makes this a popular day trip destination.

You can go exploring this quiet island on foot or by cycling along the many bike trails. Stopping along the way for a birds eye view of the luxuriant tree canopy and flourishing bird life from the viewing tower.

A cape, surrounded by wetlands rich in bio-diversity, lies at the tip of Pulau Ubin. This is Chek Jawa and its popularity precedes it. So much so that, we were not the only ‘tourists’ who had packed a picnic lunch to eat at the lookout-jetty on the boardwalk.

& The view from here is made even more interesting with the flights taking off and landing at the Changi airport! :)

The Coastal Boardwalk runs along the coast for almost a kilometer and leads you through the mangroves to the jetty right in the middle of the Straits of Johor.

Though made of concrete, this boardwalk is built to look like wood so the effect is not jarring but goes well with the unspoilt feel of the island.

The Island of Pulau Ubin boasts of a variety of ecosystems in and as one. Coastal Forests, Mangroves, Seagrass Lagoons, Tidal Flats – both mud & sand and Coral rubbles. Where, even rocky shores and sandy beaches co-exist.

Mangroves – Protectors of shorelines.

More than even the ‘exploring on a cycle’, it was the walking through these shady mangroves that I enjoyed doing the most on this island.

May be it was my coming from the country of the Sundarbans. Or my counting The Hungry Tide and Midnights Children amongst my favourite books. I admit that ‘mangroves’ did hold a certain fascination for me. Even before I ever saw them for real.

But the experience of walking through a mangrove forest, where the sun-rays play hide and seek with you, as you hear and feel the distant breeze from the surrounding sea, definitely heightened that fascination.

Found in calm waters of low salinity, the Nipah Palm is the only true mangrove palm. Like the other palms, it is tapped for its sap that is fermented to make alcohol. While its mature fronds are used for thatching roofs & are also woven into mats & baskets. Locally though, its most recognizable use is its edible seed.

Only a short boat ride away, this island has a lot to offer and is totally worth the time!

December 19, 2015
Where The Monasteries Are

I have always valued the Hindu rituals growing up and there is no denying that. But, that does not hold me back from aspiring to one day appreciate Buddhism in all its beauty.

My regard for this religion comes not just from the solace that their monasteries have always granted me, right from the first time that I entered one in my troubled times to every single time I do go back, but also because of how the people of this faith just are. I am yet to come across an agitated or envious buddhist! Qualities, unfortunately, that are so common and everyday otherwise.

By now, everyone reading this blog knows of my eternal love for the Himalayas and I believe there is no better home to Buddhism. Which brings me to this blog post, Where The Monasteries Are.

KAZA GOMPA

Kaza is the main town in the Lahaul & Spiti District of Himachal Pradesh and usually acts as the pitstop for most of your exploring in this district.

Though the Monastery (Gompa) in Kaza is not counted amongst the “important” monasteries of the region, it does not lack in beauty or tranquility.

And, for me, monasteries have always been places of quietude, which immediately fill you with a sense of peace & calm.

So, there it is, flagging off this list of Himalayan Monasteries.

KI GOMPA

The little village of Ki is about 12km from Kaza.

& sitting atop a hill, overlooking this village is the largest Buddhist Gompa & Learning Centre of Spiti.

It is also one of the most frequented and photographed in the region. Its popularity stems from how this monastery has been built like a fort in the Pasada Style of architecture.

Once inside, you realise that it it is not just the monastery nestled among the mountains that makes a pretty picture but that the views from it just as scenic.

TABO GOMPA

Tabo was not on the agenda of the group I was travelling with. But, I was lucky enough to make some friends along the way who were just as keen on visiting Tabo, despite the ‘no photography rule’. So, after some trifling deliberation, we finally managed to convince the driver of one of the SUVs to drive us to Tabo, while the rest headed back to Kaza & I can gladly say it was one of the best decisions on this trip!

Tabo is a small valley 48km southeast of Kaza. The Tabo Gompa founded in 996AD is said to be the oldest continuously functioning monastery in India & it being declared a UNESCO Heritage Site has been in the offing for a while now. Its claim to fame though, ironically, is that it was the setting of a bollywood movie in 2003!

The mud-brick wall temple complexes of the Tabo Gompa house some of the most exquisite Indo-Tibetan art that I have ever seen. The murals not only hold religious & aesthetic significance but are important historically as well, as a remnant of the early buddhist culture.

Here in & rightly so, comes the no photography rule. But, there is so much to see and discover even around the Gompa in Tabo that I for once am glad it is a non-photographer zone!!

The main stupa outside the temple complex.

The hillside caves up above the village and the monastery is where the monks used to live once. It is now an Archaeological Survey of India protected site.

November 16, 2015