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Travel Guide + Road Trip Itinerary: 2 Weeks in Kerala
God’s own country. Kerala.

Literally translated to mean the land of coconuts, Kerala with its signature houseboats and swaying coconut trees along the Arabian shoreline is a great destination to begin exploring and unravelling the tropical paradise that is India.

The Legend of Kerala

Legend has it that Kerala was reclaimed from the ocean in the Tretayuga by Parasurama, an incarnation of Lord Vishnu and the sixth of the dasaavataaras. It is said that he threw his battle axe into the sea from what is today Kanyakumari, the southernmost tip of India. And the land that lay submerged between there to today’s Gokarna was retrieved. This ‘Land of Parasurama’ is now the South Indian state of Kerala.

& If only the marine fossils found in Kottayam could bear witness to this legend.

Mythology aside, Kerala has always held an important place in world history. Infact, it is this Spice Garden of India that was once the busiest of ports on the world trade routes. And, it was here that Vasco da Gama landed back in 1498, opening the floodgates of global imperialism.

Where is Kerala?

Nestled between the Western Ghats and the Arabian Sea, along the western coastline of India, at its southernmost tip, lies Kerala. A narrow stretch of land, networked by over forty four rivers, this geographically diverse land has truly been blessed. For here you will find Mother Nature has been boundless in her abundance.

Why should you visit Kerala?

A Kettuvallam or a Houseboat in the backwaters of Kumarakom

From countless golden beaches and verdant hill stations to lush plantations of tea and spices. Kerala has an unmatched appeal in being able to cater to every kind of traveller.

There is a destination both offbeat and popular in Kerala to gratify everyone, from the adventure seeker to the romantic soul. Be it hiking trails, water sports, Ayurvedic retreats or even a hippie corner for the artsy ones, Kerala has an option.

Not to forget Kerala’s most compelling draw, its network of beautiful backwaters.

How to get to Kerala?

One can get to Kerala either from Thiruvananthapuram (Trivandrum) which is the state capital or from Kochi (Cochin); both, important cities with international airports. Kozhikode (Calicut) also has an international airport and can be a good starting point if one wishes to explore the Malabar Region.

I however flew into Thiruvananthapuram and left from Kochi, exploring the state from the touristy South to the offbeat North.

What is the best time to visit Kerala?

Winter is typically the best season to visit Kerala, for the weather is cooler and generally pleasant. So plan your trip between October to January.

If you want to avoid the crowds and rather visit the state off season, then a Monsoon trip between the months of July and September would be a good idea. And, if the lure of the monsoon clouds isn’t enough then there are the roaring waterfalls and the crashing waves to induce you to make a trip to Kerala in the monsoons. Besides, colours in India always look fresher and brighter after the rains. Making the luxuriant green of Kerala, a perfect setting to slow down. Monsoons are also the ideal time for Ayurvedic treatments, as it is the most conducive time for natural bodily healing.

Summers are extremely hot and humid. Definitely not the time to visit Kerala!

Where to stay in Kerala?

KTDC Hotels & Resorts

A view of Kovalam Beach from KTDC Samudra

From resorts right on the beach to those located inside wildlife sanctuaries, there are over twenty seven KTDC properties, owned and run by the State Government across Kerala. We stayed at two – KTDC Mascot in Thiruvananthapuram and KTDC Tea County in Munnar and spent an afternoon at two – KTDC Samudra in Kovalam and KTDC Bolgatty Palace & Island Resort in Kochi.

I can say they were all beautiful, well maintained properties with a good spread of food for both vegetarians and non vegetarians.

To find or book a Government run property in Kerala: Click here.

Resorts – Beaches, Backwaters & Plantations

Plantation views from Blanket Hotel & Spa, Munnar

With a destination as diverse as Kerala, when planning a holiday here, one can choose between a variety of resorts in different locations, depending on where one is headed to.

Beach Resorts: Be it something as popular and accessible as the Kovalam Beach or something as secluded and pristine as the Nattika Beach, there are atleast a few Beach Resorts in every village, town or city that boasts of a beach.

Backwater Resorts: From the tranquil backwaters of Alappuzha to the shores of the Vembanad Lake in Kumarkom, Backwater Resorts offering panoramic vistas of the picturesque waterscapes dot the canal banks of Kerala. Pick a backwater destination and let a houseboat take you there, effectively splitting your time between land and water.

Plantation Resorts: In the mist laden, spice scented hill stations of Kerala, are acres and acres of plantations from coffee to cardamom, from tea to vanilla. You can find a Plantation Resort that appeals to you in any part of Kerala. Munnar, Wayanad and Thekkady being the popular choices.

In the two weeks on the road in Kerala, abroad the Kerala Blog Express, I stayed at or visited & dined at more than thirty hotels and resorts in all. Of those, these are the resorts I would recommend:

Kanan Beach Resort in Nileshwar, Kasaragod and Ramada Resort Kochi in Kochi are my top two. The wooden cottages of Kanan Beach Resort, with their eclectic interiors and glass doors that open out to the sound of the ocean, are beyond gorgeous. While, for a resort in a bustling city, no one can do better than the Ramada Resort Kochi. It is a sprawling property with all the amenities of a modern business hotel on the inside and quaint red roofed cottages in the local style on the outside. Here too, you wake up to a beautiful dawn thanks to the meandering pool – punctuated with little wooden bridges – that passes by most cottages.

I would also recommend Vistara by The Lake in Wayand, and The Leaf in Munnar. Though both are great looking properties set in stunning locales, it is the people here who win you over with their warmth and efficiency.

NOTE: Besides these resorts, I also recommend Grand Hyatt Kochi Bolgatty on Bolgatty Island in Kochi, Blanket Hotel and Spa in Munnar, CGH Earth Marari Beach in Alappuzha and Fragrant Nature in Fort Kochi.

Read: A full review of my experience at the Grand Hyatt Kochi Bolgatty.

The other hotels that I stayed at don’t find mention here because I would not recommend those to my readers.

Homestays

At the Kollenkeril Plantation Bungalow, Munnar where the Kerala Hats Homestay and Tourism Society had hosted us for tea. All the homestay owners in the area had come together to give us a glimpse into the ‘Homestay Experience’.

Homestays in Kerala aren’t your typical intimate one bedroom cozy houses, though there are those too for the budget conscious traveller. Here, where it is said the homestay culture first came to flourish, there are eco conscious bungalows on 400 acre coffee estates even, for those who want an authentic experience while not having to let go off their creature comforts.

For a list of Kerala Tourism approved Homestays: Click here.
To explore Munnar Homestays: Click here.

Houseboats

One of the bedrooms in a Lakes & Lagoons Houseboat in Alappuzha

Think a Kerala holiday and houseboats are the first thing that come to mind! But to actually spend an afternoon doing nothing on a houseboat, for once to disconnect and just be, make for some magical afternoons.

The houseboats of today, were originally ‘rice boats’ used to ferry farm produce from the water-locked villages along the inland canals, before the advent of roads and bridges that made it easy for the farmers to trade. Kettuvallams, as these traditional country crafts are locally known, go upto over 60 feet in length and come equipped with everything that a home would need – bedrooms, bathrooms, a kitchen, a dining and lounge area even.

To stay, at least a day, on a Houseboat is surely a not to be missed ‘Kerala Experience‘.

For a list of Kerala Tourism approved Houseboat Operators: Click here
I stayed on a Lakes & Lagoons Houseboat. The houseboat itself was comfortable and clean and the freshly made food was served hot and delicious.

Ayurvedic Retreats

On the grounds of Kaddapurram Beach Resort & Ayurvedic Centre, Nattika Beach, Thrissur

Ayurveda, the Science of Life is an ancient Vedic philosophy and one of the oldest holistic healing systems in the world that works on bodily balance through the harmony of the mind, body and soul. And, Kerala is the one place where it has thrived over centuries and generations of Ashtavaidyas, even as mainstream medicine gained wide spread acceptance across the rest of the country. This alternative form of medicine has today evolved to become an everyday wellness system.

From therapeutic treatments to rejuvenation programmes, Ayurveda is easily accessible in Kerala and is offered across a variety of Ayurvedic Retreats that can go from a simple city based Ayurvedic Hospital to an upmarket secluded beach resort.

For a list of Kerala Tourism approved Ayurvedic Retreats: Click here

What are the Top Things To Do in Kerala?

Beach Hop

Marari Beach

With a six hundred kilometre coastline that stretches along almost the entire length of the State, Kerala is dotted with numerous golden beaches. From famous white sandy beaches to fishing hamlets, from sun kissed isolated beaches to coconut groves, from historic beaches to boatbuilding yards; every beach is distinctive and singular. You will be spoilt for choice with the Kerala Beaches.

Take a walk down the Kappad Beach in Kozhikode, where Vasco da Gama first landed over five hundred years ago or watch the Olive Ridley turtles come out to play from their nesting ground that is the Payyoli Beach, also in Kozhikode. Or just go from one popular beach to the next, from Kovalam to Varkala, from Marari to Fort Kochi.

Get Outdoors for Adventure

Rappelling in Wayanad

Wayand’s terrain calls you to get outdoors. Dominated by the Western Ghats, this wilderness world is accessible only by road and just getting there is an off-roading experience in itself. From rappelling to trekking through jungle trails that lead you on to neolithic caves there is much to explore here. Not to mention the wild life, valleys, waterfalls and islands that dot the landscape. We even tried our hand at bamboo rafting in a setting straight out of Jurassic World!

You can book your Wayanad Outdoor Adventure with Muddy Boots.
They organised a day trip for us.

Indulge in Water Sports

Taking a break while Kayaking in Dharmadam, Kannur

With so many beaches in Kerala, that go from crowded to secluded in a heartbeat, there is no dearth of finding a beach or a water sport that appeals to you. We went Kayaking from the Dharamadam Island and rode a Quad Bike on Asia’s longest drive in beach. Both among the unspoilt and quieter beaches of North Kerala, in Kannur.

We also got to go on a speedboat at first light in Kumarakom and chanced upon local fishermen out on the waters with their first catch of the day.

Other water sports that one can indulge in, here, in different parts of Kerala, are canoeing, sailing, waterskiing, white water rafting and wind surfing. The best beaches for adventure are the Muzhappilangad, Varkala and Kovalam beaches.

Cruise on The Backwaters

On a houseboat in Alappuzha

Forty four rivers that drain into the Arabian Sea, join with thirty four meandering inland lakes that are networked by innumerable canals, to bring to Kerala, its nine hundred kilometres of emerald green waterways that are the backwaters.

An experience unique to the state, floating by in a traditional wooden country craft on the languid backwaters is like no other. Cruise past lively little villages sheltered in the swaying coconut trees and the golden green paddy fields; as you laze under the afternoon sun, sipping a lemonade, book in hand.

While the eight hour trip from Kollam to Alappuzha is the longest backwater cruise in Kerala and the most popular, the Valiyaparamba route from Kasaragod to Kannur is the less crowded alternative.

Browse for Government approved Houseboat Operators.

Lose track of time in Fort Kochi

Along the historic lanes of Fort Kochi

“Time is rather abstract in Fort Kochi”, proclaims the Kerala Tourism website and I couldn’t have described Fort Kochi better!

Artistic, quirky, colourful, that is Fort Kochi for you. It is here that you will find those iconic Chinese fishing nets – that have come to be synonymous with Kochi and Kerala itself – lined up against the setting sun. Steeped in history and culture, it was here that the illustrious explorer Vasco da Gama was originally buried. In the oldest European Church in the country. Need I say more?

The historic locales of Fort Kochi are also the main venue for the artists led Kochi-Muziris Beinnale.

Check out the Kochi-Muziris Biennale, the fourth edition of which is set to happen from 12th December 2018 to 29th March 2019.

Catch a Temple Festival or Stumble upon one!

Townspeople heading to a local Temple Festival in the village of Vechoor

From the grand festivals of major temples to the small ones of local village temples, ‘Temple Festivals of Kerala’ are a visual spectacle. They are an assault on your senses. It isn’t just about the majestic elephants, caparisoned and golden, or the riot of colours or the crowds and the chaos. It is, maybe, a strange alchemy. Of religious fervour and childlike amazement at the spectacular show that is put on annually, in every corner of the state. Whatever it is, you get carried away and it is an experience like no other.

In Kerala there are both kinds of temple festivals, with and with out elephants. I have witnessed both.

For a full list of Kerala Festivals: Click here.

NOTE: There has been, a now long drawn debate on how ethical it is to have elephants in a temple festival – whether they are treated well, if they are subjected to inhumane control. It is true, that, they are chained. But, it is also true, that every child in Kerala hero worships his favourite elephant, knows all their names and eagerly waits to cheer for his favourite to be the star of the upcoming Pooram.

I love elephants, but I also respect tradition. I am sorry, but, this is still an unresolved conflict in my head. If you have any insights on this with enough facts to back them, please do let me know in the comments at the end of this post. Any healthy discussion towards understanding the issue better is wholeheartedly welcome.

Delight in The Classical Performing Arts

Archa, a local dancer performing Mohiniyattam in Kumarakom

Kerala is home to some of the oldest classical arts. From dance dramas and temple rituals that are counted amongst UNESCO’s Intangible Heritage of Humanity to ritualistic folk and intense martial arts even. Elaborate costumes, painted masks, vivid facial makeup that add to the fierce expressiveness of the performers and graceful movements characterise almost all of these performing arts.

So, when in Kerala, enjoying a classical art performance – be it the popular Kathakali and Mohiniyattam or the lesser known Kalaripayattu or Theyyam – is yet another ‘Kerala Experience’ not to be missed.

Mohiniyattam, the more feminine of the two traditional dance forms of Kerala, traces its origins back to Mohini, the mythical enchantress who was none other than the Lord Vishnu come to vanquish the demon Bhasmasura in a dance off.

Interestingly, it is also in Kerala that the son of Lords Shiva and Vishnu (as Mohini), Ayappan is revered and the famous Sabarimala Temple – that draws one of the world’s largest annual pilgrimages – dedicated to him is located. Nestled deep in the hills of the Periyar Tiger Reserve.

For the 2018 Theyyam Calendar: Click here.

Experience Ayurveda

Home to the ancient Vedic medicine of Ayurveda, Kerala is the one place in the world that you cannot miss out on experiencing Ayurveda as a wellness programme at the very least, if not as a curative medical treatment.

From a simple foot massage to the famous Shirodhara, it is easy here, to find a restorative Ayurvedic experience that fits your needs.

North Kerala Vs South Kerala

North Kerala, from the Malabar Coast to Kozhikode is a pristine stretch of virgin beaches untouched by tourism. This region recently made it to Lonely Planet’s list of Top 10 Travel Destinations in Asia and with a new International Airport all set to open its doors in Kannur, there couldn’t be a better time to explore North Kerala, before it quickly transforms from offbeat to mainstream. Besides the bigger cities of Kozhikode and Thrissur and the more widely known Wayanad and Bekal; there are Kannur and Kasaragod. North Kerala is where all the action is, from temple festivals and ritualistic performances to water sports, there is much to see and do.

While all the offbeat destinations are in North Kerala, if you do not want to miss out on the popular tourist circuit, then South Kerala it is. Alappuzha, Munnar, Kumarakom, Kovalam, Varkala, all the beaches, backwaters and hill stations are in the south.

So the distinction is clear and travellers often decide their itinerary based on this. Usually making two trips to Kerala to explore both its touristy side and the offbeat.

Suggested Itinerary for 2 Weeks in Kerala

This was the itinerary for our 15 Day Road Trip aboard The Kerala Blog Express Season 5. Though some of the popular tourist destinations are not included in this itinerary, we did manage to cover the entire length of the state and also explored both North and South Kerala.

Day 1: Fly into Thiruvananthapuram | Explore ? Drive to Kovalam

Drive Time: 40 minutes. Kovalam is 20 kilometres from Thiruvananthapuram.

Kuthiramalika Palace in Thiruvananthapuram

Kuthiramalika Palace in Thiruvananthapuram was the first stop on our two week road trip across Kerala. It sure set the tone as to what to expect along the way, accompanying us as our bus traversed over one thousand six hundred kilometres – beautiful redbrick houses hidden in verdant banana trees and swaying coconut palms.

Explore, See, Do in Thiruvananthapuram
- Kuthiramalika Palace
Located just outside the Ananta Padmanabha Swamy Temple, the Kuthiramalika Palace or the Horse Palace, was built by Maharaja Swathi Thirunal Balarama Varma, the Maharaja of Travancore in the traditional architectural style of Travancore. It is infact the exquisite wooden carvings of the horses on the facade that give this dark wood palace its name.
- Anantha Padmanabha Swamy Temple
A Divya Desam, the Anantha Padmanabha Swamy Temple is one of the hundred and eight principal centres of worship dedicated to Lord Vishnu. Unlike other temples in Kerala, this is built in the Dravidian style of architecture, with a towering gopuram that is the signature feature of a typical South Indian temple. But, what is distinctive about this temple is that the presiding deity, Padmanabha Swamy, is manifest in the Anantha Sayanam Posture, meaning, that the Lord Vishnu is reclining on the serpent Anantha in yoga-nidra or eternal sleep.

The Anantha Padmanabha Swamy Temple suddenly shot into limelight when under the orders of the Supreme Court of India, five of its six secret chambers were opened in 2011 and the temple’s untold riches were documented in mainstream media.

Did you know?

Thiruvananthapuram literally means town of the divine Anantha.

Yes, home to Anantha, the very snake on who resides Padmanabha Swamy, Lord of the richest temple in India, the Anantha Padmanabha Swamy Temple.

Explore, See, Do in Kovalam

Glistening waves and darkening shadows, Kovalam Beach
- Kovalam Beach
Sunsets at Kerala’s most popular beach fringed with swaying coconut palms are a glorious riot of colours. And, there are three beaches – separated by rocky outcrops on the main beach of Kovalam – to choose from; Lighthouse Beach, Eve’s or Howah Beach and Ashok Beach.

Where to Stay in Thiruvananthapuram: KTDC Mascot
Where to Stay in Kovalam: KTDC Samudra

Day 2: Drive to Kollam ? Take a Houseboat to Alappuzha

Drive Time: 1 Hour 20 Minutes. Kollam is 65 kilometres from Thiruvananthapuram.

The emerald green backwaters of Alappuzha

Explore, See, Do in Alappuzha
- Life on a Houseboat
We spent an afternoon and a night on a houseboat going from Kollam to Alappuzha. A magical afternoon of gliding on the briny backwaters watching the villages go by, as they stirred to life, with villagers coming out to do their daily chores by the water in the fading afternoon light.

Pit Stop: Kollam

A view of the Kollam Beach with the play area opposite

Where to Stay in Alappuzha: Lakes & Lagoons Houseboat
Where to Stay in Kollam: The Quilon Beach Hotel

Day 3: Drive to Kumarakom (via Marari Beach)

Drive Time: 1 Hour. Kumarakom is 35 Kilometres from Alappuzha.

Explore, See, Do in Kumarakom

A villager shows how he taps toddy for a living as part of the Responsible Tourism Initiative by the Government of Kerala in Kumarakom

After a traditional Kerala breakfast of Ada (rice parcels of coconut and jaggery steamed and served in banana leaves) on the houseboat, we drove to one of the villages by the banks of the Kumarakom Backwaters.
- Experience Village Life at Kumarakom
The Kerala government has partnered with local bodies in the popular tourist regions of Kerala, to promote tourism responsibly and minimise the negative economic, environment and social impact of tourism. By participating in this Responsible Tourism Initiative, locals benefit from giving visiting tourists an authentic experience of understanding the daily lives and livelihood of the villagers.

To book your own ‘Village Life Experience at Kumarakom’: Click here.

Pit Stop: Marari Beach
Drive Time: 25 Minutes. Marari Beach is 15 kilometres from Alappuzha.

Scuttling crabs and distant ship, Marari Beach

Where to Stay in Marari Beach: CGH Earth Marari Beach Resort

NOTE: We did not stay in Marari this day, but drove to CGH Earth Marari Beach Resort for Dinner from Fort Kochi on the last day. It is a beautiful property, the food is delicious and the service is just the right amount of helpful and friendly.

Overnight in Kumarakom **

Day 4: Drive to Muziris | Explore ? Drive to Kochi

Drive Time: 2 Hours. Muziris is 80 kilometres from Kumarakom
Drive Time: 1 Hour. Kochi is 40 kilometres from Muziris.

Inside the Paravur Synagogue, Muziris

Explore, See, Do in Muziris
- Paliam Kovilakam (Muziris Palace)
The Muziris Palace, originally the home of Paliathachans, Prime Ministers to the Kings of Kochi, became a significant part of history when a palliathachan hid his King here, during a time when the royal household was under threat from the Portuguese. Today, it is a history museum chronicling those times and events. With its elaborately carved wooden staircases in the traditional Dutch style and the red tiled roof of a typical Kerala house, the Paliam Kovilakam is a beautiful building hidden in the leafy walkways of Chendamangalam in Muziris.
- Paravur Synagogue (Jewish Synagogue)
Popularly known as the Jewish Synagogue, the Paravur Synagogue though no longer an active place of worship has been converted to a Kerala Jews History Museum that is open to public during the day. While the present day structure was built only four hundred year ago, it is believed that there was an older synagogue in its place, dated to be from the 12th century, on the ruins of which this was built.

To plan your visit to the Muziris Heritage Project: Click here.

Overnight in Kochi**

Day 5 & 6: Drive to Munnar | Stay & Explore

Drive Time: 3 Hours 15 Minutes. Munnar is 130 kilometres from Kochi.

Explore, See, Do in Munnar

The Tea Plantations of Munnar
- Tea Plantations & Tea Pickers
Lose yourself in the manicured hedges of the resplendent tea gardens. Meet the tea pickers, the smiling ladies with the delicate fingers.
- Lockhart Tea Factory Tour
The only working tea factory in Munnar open to public, the Lockhart Tea Factory offer guided tours that take you through the hundred and sixty year old factory to watch and understand first hand how tea is processed.

You can book your day tour in Munnar with Route 49 Adventures.
They organised the plantation and factory tour for us.
- Munnar Market
Walk around the charming hill station, shop for home made chocolates. Chat with the locals, take back souvenirs and travel stories.

Where to Stay in Munnar: The Leaf Munnar, Blanket Hotel & Spa, Tea County and/or Homestays.

Day 7: Drive to Thrissur

Drive Time: 3 Hours 45 Minutes. Thrissur is 160 kilometres from Munnar.

Explore, See, Do in Thrissur

Thrissur Pooram
- Thrissur Pooram
Tracing its origins to as far back as over two hundred years ago, the Thrissur Pooram which is Kerala’s biggest and most prominent festival brings together ten local temples at the Vadakkunnathan Temple in the Malayalam month of Medam. All the deities arrive on elephant backs at the temple premises for stunning celebration that goes through the night.

Where to Stay in Thrissur: The Garuda

Day 8: Explore Thrissur ? Drive to Kozhikode (via Nattika Beach)

Drive Time:2 Hours 45 Minutes. Kozhikode is 120 kilometres from Thrissur.

Inside the Vaidyaratnam Ayurveda Museum, Thrissur

Explore, See, Do in Thrissur

On our way out of Thrissur, the day after the Thrissur Pooram, we made a quick stop at this museum housed in a beautiful two storeyed traditional Kerala house.
- Vaidyaratnam Ayurveda Museum
For those interested in knowing the five thousand year old legacy of Ayurveda The Vaidyaratnam Ayurveda Museum in Thrissur has interesting displays and presentations.

Pit Stop: Nattika Beach
Drive Time: 40 Minutes. Nattika Beach is 25 kilometres from Thrissur.

Lazy afternoons on Nattika Beach, Thrissur

A little known fishing hamlet, Nattika Beach found itself on the tourist map of Kerala after being the location for a hit Malayalam Movie.
(Malayalam being the regional language spoken in the state.)

Where to Stay in Kozhikode: Raviz Kozhikode, Malabar Palace
Where to Stay in Nattika Beach: Kadappuram Beach Resort

Day 9: Explore Kozhikode ? Drive to Wayanad (via Beypore)

Drive Time: 2 Hours. Wayanad is 85 kilometres from Kozhikode.

Murals depicting scenes from the book, Oru Theruvinte Katha in SM Street

Explore, See, Do in Kozhikode
- CVN Kalari
Kalaripayattu, the fourth century martial art that is considered to be the fore runner to Kung Fu, is probably more akin to ballet, than just a form of self-defense, thanks to the performer’s graceful movements and intense facial expressions. But this classical Kerala art too is definitely worth a watch. And, probably even worth training in, for those wanting to achieve a sound mind in a sound body.

We were witness to a showcase match of Kalaripayattu at the CVN Kalari Training Centre.
- SM Street + Parsi Temple
Sweet Meat Street or SM Street in short was once the busiest of food streets where the roads used to be lined with stalls of halwa (sweet meat for the British, who gave this street its name). It still is one of the busiest streets in Kozhikode owing to the plethora of the shop selling everything from boho clothes to sliver trinkets.

Minus the sweetmeat stalls, today, the most interesting features of SM Street are the delightful old Parsi temple hidden behind a nondescript gate and unruly foliage and the statue at its entrance. The statue is of SK Pottekkatt, who wrote the award winning Malayalam book, Oru Theruvinte Katha. The 1960 novel talks of life on the streets and is set in this very SM Street. Murals depicting scenes from the story line the cobbled pathways leading you into the celebrated SM Street.

Pit Stop: Beypore
Drive Time: 20 Minutes. Beypore is 10 kilometres from Kozhikode.

An uru in the making, Beypore

Go inside a Uru in Beypore and see master craftsmen at work, bringing to life this striking handcrafted teak wood trading vessel that traces its origins back to the Arabian Dhow.

Overnight in Wayanad**

Day 10: Explore Wayanad

Explore, See, Do in Wayanad

Waking up in the forests of Wayanad
- Edakkal Caves
The very first pre historic drawings in India were discovered here in Eddakal. A kilometres trek takes you to the caves, where, distinct petroglyphs are found engraved into the cave walls.
- Thovarimala Ezhuthapara Caves + Rappelling
Five kilometres from Edakkal, on Thovarimala, in yet another rock shelter, engravings probably dating back to 1000BC were discovered. Only recently. So, this area is yet to receive any kind of formal protection and/or conservation efforts. Which also means the Ezhuthapara Caves are relatively unknown.

This is where we hiked to, instead of going to the Eddakal Caves. You will not come across anyone else on this hike across plantations, grassy meadows and plateaus, even as you descend sharply to the cave.

We also did some Rappelling along the way, in Thovarimala itself.
- Bamboo Rafting
Float along the River Vythiri, on a bamboo raft. Bird watch as you glide through a dense forest of green and you might just spot the famed Malabar Grey Hornbill, the most recognisable bird endemic to the Western Ghats. Once you reach mid river you can even try your hand at poling the raft forward. That, is what I did.

You can book your Wayanad Outdoor Adventure with Muddy Boots.
Where to Stay in Wayanad: Vistara by The Lake, Pranavam Retreat

Day 11: Drive to Kannur

Drive Time: 3 Hours. Kannur is 120 kilometres from Wayanad.

Shimmery sunsets in Kannur

Pit Stop: Sargaalaya Arts & Crafts Village, Kozhikode
Drive Time: 3 Hours. Sargaalaya is 95 kilometres from Wayanad.
1 Hour 20 Minutes. Sargaalaya is 42 kilometres from Kozhikode.

Local artisans handcrafting bamboo chairs in the Sargaalaya Arts & Crafts Village

The Sargaalaya Arts & Crafts Village in Kozhikode brings together artisans from across Kerala under one roof. Here you can shop for traditional Kerala handicrafts.

NOTE: The Sargaalaya Arts & Crafts Villages on the route to Kannur from Wayanad is quite a detour. I wouldn’t recommend including this in the itinerary on this day. Visit the crafts village when in Kozhikode.

Overnight in Kannur **

Day 12: Explore Kannur ? Drive to Kasaragod

Drive Time: 2 Hours. Kasargod is 90 kilometres from Kannur.

Asia’s longest & Kerala’s only drive-in beach, Muzhappilangad Beach, Kannur

Explore, See, Do in Kannur
- Kayaking at Dharmadam Island
Hemmed in by the Arabian Sea on one side and by the Anjarakandy river on the other three sides, Dharmadam Island is a great place to go kayaking. As you take the kayak into the waters you are hit by waves coming in from the sea, but once you cross the sand bars and the waves and reach the river, kayaking actually becomes a peaceful experience.

Kayaking here was one of my top Kerala Experiences. To kayak for over three hours, to chance upon a mangrove nest of bats and to even fall into the sea while pulling our kayak out of a sandbar, all of this make some great memories for a non swimmer like me!
- Quad Biking at Muzhappilangad Beach
A four kilometre stretch of inviting white sand calls out to you when you reach Asia’s longest drive-in beach. Zooming along the water, uninterrupted, on a quad bike..well thats something. ?

And to come back to a shack fringed with coconut trees and cool down with water from fresh cut coconuts, is the perfect conclusion to a well ‘lived’ morning.
- Payyambalam Beach
A local favourite, Payyambalam Beach is known for its laterite cliffs, expansive gardens and the sculptures there.

There is also the #KannurEye for the Instagram-mers on the beach.
- St. Angelo’s Fort
This sea front fort constructed by the first Portuguese Viceroy of India, offers delightful harbour views. The chapel, remnants of a secret tunnel out to the sea and the waves crashing into the rocky edge of the fort are some of its interesting features.

Where to Stay in Kasargod: Kanan Beach Resort

Day 13: Explore Kasaragod | Bekal ? To Kochi

Drive Time: 10 Hours. Kochi is 370 kilometres from Kasaragod.
* Fine tune the itinerary instead of adding an extra day. (We took a night train instead.)

Muthappan Theyyam at a village temple in Kasaragod

Explore, See, Do in Kasaragod
- Cruise on the Valiyaparamba Backwaters
North Kerala’s answer to the South’s celebrated Alappuzha Backwaters, the Valiyaparamba Backwaters is a scenic setting too, to cruise on the backwaters of Kerala. Verdant islands of tall coconut trees, tranquil green waterways, luxurious houseboats, all make for a more offbeat houseboat experience here.

You can book your houseboat for a cruise on the Valiyaparamba Backwaters with The Lotus.
- Witness Muthappan Theyyam
One of the oldest ritualistic forms of worship in Kerala, Theyyam is primarily performed in the village temples of North Kerala, particularly in the Kasargod and Kannur regions. The dance of Theyyam can take on many forms, there are as many as four hundred. What we were witness to is the Muthappan Theyyam, where the dance was an invocation of Muthappan, a popular local god.

Pit Stop: Bekal Fort
Drive Time: 20 Minutes. Bekal Fort is 17 kilometres from Kasaragod.

Beach views from Bekal Fort

Overnight on The Malabar Express to Ernakulam.

Day 14: Explore Kochi

Chinese fishing nets of Fort Kochi against the setting sun

Explore, See, Do in Kochi
- Shop at Broadway
One of the oldest shopping streets in Kochi, they say there isn’t anything you cannot find here at Broadway. This bustling two kilometre stretch of car free shopping alley has been around for over a century.
- Bolgatty Island |Sunset Cruise from Bolgatty Palace
The Bolgatty Palace on this island is the perfect spot to spend an afternoon and catch the sunset cruise out towards the harbour mouth and Fort Kochi, like we did. This elegant dark wood palace with its painted ceilings and Roman columns is the oldest Dutch Palace outside Holland.
- Ride the Kochi Metro
We took a short ride on the Kochi Metro. What catches your eye though on this whole journey are the stations, each of which is done up in a theme relevant to the local culture. So if it is the wildlife of Kerala in one, then there are murals of the state’s classical performing arts in the next. It is the first metro in the country to extensively use solar panels and also the first Government agency to officially employ transgenders.

Where to Stay in Kochi: Ramada Resort Kochi, Grand Hyatt Kochi Bolgatty, KTDC Bolgatty Palace & Island Resort

Day 15: Drive to Fort Kochi | Stay & Explore

Drive Time: 15 Minutes. Fort Kochi is 7 kilometres from Kochi.

St Francis Church in Fort Kochi where Vasco da Game was originally buried

Explore, See, Do in Fort Kochi
- Jew Street
A personal favourite for great street finds (well, I found a whole lot of jewellery with elephants!), Jew Street is a great place to hunt for antiques and quaint little curios for your home.
- Mattancherry Palace
Built by the Portuguese in 1555 for the King of Kochi, Raja Veera Kerala Varma as a gesture of good will, the Mattancherry Palace, today, serves as a portrait museum. Here you will find carefully preserved and displayed coronation robes of the erstwhile Maharajas of Kochi, their portraits, palanquins, ornate wooden cradles et al. But the most striking feature of the Mattancherry Palace are the exquisitely vivid murals that tell the story of the Ramayana and more in artistic detail.
- St Francis Church
Vasco Da Gama rested here for fourteen years before his remains were returned to Portugal. You can see his gravestone towards the southern wall, as you sit down by the aisle inside the church. And yes, the St. Francis Church was built by the Portuguese friars over five hundred years ago making this India’s oldest European church.

Where to Stay in Fort Kochi: Fragrant Nature

Kerala Blog Express ended here and I flew out of Kochi the next morning.

* To fine tune the itinerary a little, I would suggest skipping Sargaalaya Arts & Crafts Village on Day 11, getting to Kannur early and spending the day there. Later, using this extra day to drive back to Kochi from Kasargod.

** In certain places I haven’t mentioned where to stay for the day. This is because I would not recommend those particular hotels – that I had stayed at – to my readers. Staying there was definitely not a pleasurable or a comfortable experience.

Planning your Kerala Itinerary & have some questions?
Feel free to let me know in the comments below and I will get back.

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May 14, 2018
Hotel Review: A Sneak Peek into Grand Hyatt Kochi Bolgatty

Modern yet with a personality that is all old school elegance, The Grand Hyatt Kochi Bolgatty truly lives up to the Grand Hyatt’s motto of #livegrand.

Classy and understated, Grand Hyatt’s newest luxury hotel on the Bolgatty Island in Kerala’s port city of Kochi is set to open its doors on the 29th of this month.

Here is an exclusive sneak peek

The Presidential Suite & Others

Swanky.

Straight out of Gossip Girl, I could imagine living here in this super sumptuous condo style Presidential Suite while my penthouse in the city was being redone for the 100th time !!

This mini home that comes at a price tag of roughly a lakh of Indian rupees a night, definitely made for one of the most fun property tours I have been on.

There are four waterfront villas too that sit serenely away from the main building.

The standard rooms too are done up tastefully and offer beautiful panoramic views of the city and its backwaters. Thoughtfully designed furniture like the table that does double duty as a work desk and for in-room dining, only adds to the snugness.

The Colony Club & Its Wall of Whisky

The club is atmospheric and inviting. What with its dark wood panelling and gold trimmings, the plush velvet cushions and travel inspired vintage decor set against the backdrop of the tranquil Vembanad Lake.

The pièce de résistance of this old world gentleman’s club though is the Whisky Wall. Here is where members can store their whisky bottles for the future, to be reopened only for them.

I only rue not getting to watch the sunset from the rooftop sit out while sipping on a tall glass of super cold ice tea.

Food, Coffee & The Restaurants

Thai Soul

Hands down the best Thai Street Food I have ever had. Having been a vegetarian all my life I usually find it difficult to eat Thai Cuisine because of the lingering smell of sea food that literally kills my appetite. But here the vegetarian fare is so clean and delicious that not once was I uncomfortable or unsure about trying something new.

From the tangy raw papaya salad to the stir fried spicy noodle, the food was just the right amount of spicy and delectable with all the flavours distinctly enjoyable.

Also having the first taste of mango this season might have sweetened the experience just a little bit! ?

Malabar Cafe

That pretty blue ceramic serve ware. *sigh*
But yes the coffee was good too.

Clubhouse Grill

I Did not really get to try out anything at the Club House Grill, but from what we had elsewhere in the Hotel, I can vouch for it.

April 10, 2018
Ammapalli Temple: Tollywood’s Favourite Shoot Location!
Ammapalli Temple. Long Long ago, before Lord Rama met Hanuman during the course of events set out in the Ramayana…Well, thats the time that the few Kondanda Rama Temples that there are, hark back to.

Five kilometres from the Shamshabad Bus Station is a quiet little village called Ammapalli. In this quite forgotten leafy corner of the city outskirts is a centuries old temple that has long been popular with movie makers and has yet eluded mainstream popularity.

The road leading to Ammapalli Temple

Believe it or not but over four hundred Telugu movies have been shot here! & a few Hindi and Tamil movies too. For there is a sentiment among the Tollywood fraternity that a movie with even one scene shot here at this temple, will surely have a successful run at the box office and for a hundred days at the least.

Did you know? This temple was extensively featured in the 2001 blockbuster Murari, the very same movie that launched actor Mahesh Babu’s career towards superstardom. The central theme of the movie revolves around an ancient temple and its powerful presiding goddess. Little surprise there then that this Seeta Ramachandra Swamy Temple in Ammapalli makes frequent appearances right from the opening credits to the very climax.

Locally known as the Ammapalli Temple, this is the Sri Seeta Ramachandra Swamy Temple in Ammapalli, Shamshabad. Spread over two hundred and fifty acres, it was built sometime in the 11th Century by the Eastern Chalukyas. Like most of the prominent temples dedicated to Lord Rama in our country, this thousand year old temple too marks the spot where he once stopped to rest during his journey in the historic-mythical Dandkaaranyam.

Tree lined roads, manicured lawns and clearly sectioned off sandy areas lead you from the archway to the wide parking ground right outside the main temple. Along the way there are two smaller temples dedicated to Lord Shiva and Hanuman, a couple of mandapams and abandoned looking structures and a beautiful step-well hidden in a grove of coconut trees.

If you love discovering beauty in little details, then this step-well is where you should start your exploration of the temple from. Corridors that start off in the Hindu style of pillared mandapams transition into Islamic arches as they go around enclosing the step-well. This was once the koneru where the Brahmostavams were held and people of all faiths would watch from these very corridors the on going festivities.

Step Well on the grounds of the temple

Sri Rama Navami is celebrated in a big way here and the Seetarama Kalyanam is attended by thousands of people annually. As you walk along the grounds, it becomes evident that the Kalyanam has been but an age old tradition of the temple. For most of the structures on the grounds outside the main temple complex are built to serve but this one purpose. From the two storeyed kalyana mandapam to the edurukolla mandapam and even the Nagaar Khana, were the musicians would be seated to play the wedding tunes, they are all laid out for this specific purpose.

Set against these structures is the main temple complex entered through a Gali Gopuram of ninety feet. Like every other aspect of this temple, the architecture of this too is strikingly unique with its colourful Seshashayee Vishnu carved into an otherwise drab brown tower. Then there is the bright white prahari or the boundary wall, which doubles up as a two storeyed corridor with benches on the upper level built into it. To serve as yet another viewing gallery undoubtedly.

For all its splendour though, what stands out the most about the Amapalli temple are the ekashila (single stone) idols and the story behind them. These are doubly unique in the fact that, firstly, this style of carving the deity with the surrounding makaram toranam from a single stone was prevalent only for a brief period of time in history making them rare and invaluable today. Secondly, they date back to a time when Lord Rama hadn’t yet met Hanuman, making this a Kodanda Rama temple, where Lord Rama is depicted devoid of a bow and a Hanuman next to him.

And adding to the intrigue is the Abhaya Anjaneya sculpted into the dwaja stambham (pillar) opposite the inner sanctum. On command from Lord Rama, he, Hanuman is said to fulfil the wishes of those devotees who seek it there and this is why when you go here to pray do not block the view between them!
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Explorers Guide

Route: Take the PVNR Expressway from the city. Around 8 kilometres before the Rajiv Gandhi International Airport, take the right adjoining the Shamshabad Bus Station. Another 5 kilometres on this straight road and you will find an archway on your left, leading to the Sri Seeta Rama Chandra Swamy Temple .
Don’t Miss: Every month on the day that falls under Lord Rama’s birth star, Punarvasu, a Seeta Rama Kalyanam is held here in the morning. Followed by a Pallaki Seva and lunch.

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Read More on Temples in Hyderabad:

North meets South in Sitaram Bagh

Read on Other Ramayana Places:

A Song of Stone: Dichpally Ramalayam
March 3, 2018
Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Sri Kalahasti

Legends surround Sri Kalahasti, the temple town near South India’s most popular pilgrimage centre, Tirupati. Home to the ancient Shiva temple, the Sri Kalahasteeswara Temple, this town has been the centre of many legends, stories and folk lore.

But it isn’t as widely known that this town in Andhra Pradesh’s Chittoor district also boasts of something that is in fact more renowned than the temple itself. Kalamkari.

Literally meaning craftsmanship of the pen, Kalamkari refers to the hand painted cotton fabric that is counted amongst one of the most beautiful traditional Indian art forms.

The Sri Kalahasteeswara Temple was originally built in the 5th century by the Pallavas under the shadow of a hill by the banks of the River Swarnamukhi. This was later extended by the Cholas in the 11th and 12th centuries. But it was in the 16th century, under Sri Krishnadeva Raya that it was most celebrated. And from then on, it hasn’t been just a mythical place of worship but the fountainhead for art and culture.

Vilasini Natyam, which is the traditional temple dance form, also originated here.

& what started out back then as a hand painted backdrop for the deities in the temple is what has today evolved to become one of the most appreciated fabric there is, purely for its artistic value.

That there is the story of Kalamkari.

But, there is more. For there is a variant, a different school of Kalamkari art that flourished under the Mughals and Qutb Shahis of Golconda. Here the fabric is block printed rather than hand painted and the motifs are more Persian than religious. This form of Kalamkari is produced in the town Machilipatnam, yet another town in Andhra Pradesh where flowing water is readily available. For whatever be the art form, it almost always draws inspiration from the society of the time, the geography of the land and availability of indigenous raw materials. And flowing water is an essential to the process of creating the Kalamkari textile.

Before the actual process of art begins, the cotton fabric has to be prepped for drawing by washing it in water and soaking it in milk. A master artist then draws the design freehand in bold black strokes using a charcoal pencil.

The cloth is then soaked once again, this time in boiling water before colours are filled in by the artisans using a bamboo kalam (pen).

The colours are always natural and made from ingredients like indigo and myrobalan fruit.

From sarees and dupattas to bed linen, this hand painted cotton fabric is considered hip and not just in the art circles. There is a huge demand for it today not just in India but internationally as well. Which is probably why now the Kalamkari motifs have grown to be so ubiquitous that you see them everywhere from bags to utility trays even.

Explorers Guide

Distance from Chennai: 116 Kilometres
Distance from Tirupati: 36 Kilometres
Trip Duration: One Day
Getting There: Less than an hours drive from Tirupati, this trip can be a detour on your journey there. One can also drive down from Chennai, shop and get back, all in a day.

Read More on Other Artisan Villages of India:

Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Uppada
Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Karipakam
Artisan Villages of Telangana: Nirmal
Artisan Villages of Telangana: Cheriyal

February 10, 2018
Alampur: South India’s City of Moksh

The temple town of Alampur in the Mahbubnagar district of Telangana is renowned for its Ashtadasa Shakti Peetham, the Jogulamba Temple.

But there is more to this sleepy little town that is only a few hours from Hyderabad. It is believed to be the Western gateway to Srisailam, one of the important pilgrimage centres for Shaivites (Shiva believers) in the country.

Locals say that there are so many Shiva Lingams everywhere, in and around Alampur only waiting to be found that this little town is known as Dakshina Kasi, implying it is South India’s very own Benaras/Varanasi/Kasi, the abode of Lord Shiva and the Hindus’ City of Moksh (salvation).

Navabramha Temple Complex & Jogulamba

Nine for Navabramhas, nine forms of Lord Shiva.

Legend has it that a 6^th century saint, Rasa Siddha had created a tantric Siddha Rasarnavam here at the Navabramha temples, built by the then Chalukya king, Pulakesi II. Using which, he could create gold out of mercury just by adding a few herbs. It is after this tool of alchemy – religious mysticism, that the nine deities here are named.

It is in this Navabramha Temple Complex, that the Jogulamba Temple is situated. One of the eighteen major Shakti Peethams, as listed by Adi Shankaracharya.

Here the goddess takes her Roudra Roopam or the form of fury. Which is why there is a moat around the main shrine, to cool the atmosphere and make it easier for us mere mortals to pray to this ‘Mother of Yogis’, they say.

So, both the principal deities of this temple come power packed with legends and beliefs! It is little wonder then that Alampur is a popular destination for a lot of Hindu pilgrims in Telangana.

But what is different here is that, this temple complex stands a stoic witness to a lot of mankind’s history.

For within its original walls, amidst all the temples, sits a dargah (grave/shrine of a religious figure or saint).

Speaking volumes of a time when not just this temple was invaded by intolerant rulers. The Bahamani sultans of the 14^th century, in this case.

Sangameswara Temple

Every temple in this town seems to some how signify the importance of the holy confluence of the rivers Krishna and Tungabadhra. To begin with, Alampur itself gets the monicker ‘Navabramha Theertham’ from this. the most prominent one, the Navabramha Temple Complex built on the banks of Tungabadhra in the 7^th century, together with the word ‘theertham’ meaning holy water give this town the name . Yet another temple in Alampur hinting at the holy confluence or Sangam is the Sangameswara Temple.

Did you know?
The Sangameswara Temple was moved stone for stone from the banks of the river to where it is now, during the construction of the Srisailam Dam in the 1970s.

This temple comes next only in terms of popularity for it is just as beautiful as the first if not even more striking in its stoic solitude. This only leaves us to wonder just how important were these rivers once, spiritually!

Papanasi Group of Temples

Save the best for the last and use Google Maps to take you to the Papanasi Group of Temples next. Tucked away, just around the corner from the main town of Alampur, is this cluster of 24 temples, stunningly elegant in their simple design.

Majority of these shrines are dedicated to Lord Shiva – yet again – housing Lingams in numerous forms.

Explorers Guide

Distance from Hyderabad: 215 kilometres
Trip Duration: Full Day
Route: Alampur is a three hour drive along the Hyderabad-Bangalore Highway. One can either go via the Outer Ring Road or the Airport. To save on time, plan your day trip so that you are not stuck in the city traffic during peak hours.
Tourist Info: The Jogulamba Temple in Alampur is open from 7 am to 5:30 pm, and is closed for an hour during the day between 1pm to 2pm. It is advisable, though not mandatory, for women to dress in traditional Indian clothes like a salwar kameez or a saree.
Remember: The Jogulamba temple closes early, so make sure to visit here first. It is also customary to take along a saree and bangles as an offering to the Mother Goddess.

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Read More on Temples in Telangana:

Of Rocks & Hidden Temples: Armoor
A Song of Stone: Dichpally Ramalayam
Town of Hymns: Manthani
Lost in Time: Nagunur Ruins

February 5, 2018
24 Hours in Jaipur

The country’s first planned city, Jaipur earned the moniker Pink City when Maharaja Ram Singh painted the entire city pink in honour of the Prince of Wales’s visit to India in 1876, for the colour pink symbolised hospitality.

One corner of India’s golden triangle, Delhi – Agra – Jaipur, Rajasthan’s capital is an enchanting city, bustling with modernity and yet steeped in tradition and history, that you feel it in the very air you breathe.

Here is a lowdown on how to spend 24 hours in Pink City, the old city of Jaipur.

Breakfast @ LMB

Start your day like a local! Dig into the hot, savoury Pyaaz Kachoris and Jalebi at the iconic Lakshmi Mishthan Bhandar, lovingly called LMB, while you wait for the “World Famous Paneer Ghevar” to be packed for you to take back home.

This vegetarian restaurant in the old part of Jaipur, the Pink City as it is known, has been going strong since 1954.

& If you are not up to breakfast then the Rajasthani Thali is surely a must try. For when you are in Jaipur, you cannot not have the ghee laden Daal Baati Churma atleast once.

Hawa Mahal + Johari Bazaar

Hawa Mahal is a paradox. It is at once Jaipur’s – or even Rajasthan’s – most iconic monument and it is also probably its most underrated. For everyone’s visit to this beauty in pink begins and ends with a picture outside it. But you really enjoy it and begin to appreciate its name, Hawa Mahal, the Palace of Winds only once you are on the inside.

Johari Bazaar, or jewellers bazaar is Jaipur’s most popular shopping street. From silver trinkets to exquisite jewellery set in kundans, precious gems and diamonds, it truly is an experience, even if it is just to take a look at designs that hark back to a regal era.

Lunch @ Rajput Room

Lunch like a royal at Rajput Room, an all day fine dining restaurant in the Taj Rambagh Palace.

The erstwhile palace of the celebrated beauty, Maharani Gayatri Devi, queen of Jaipur, the Rambagh Palace is everything that India is associated with. A palace of marble elephants, Mughal gardens, hand-carved marble jalis (latticework), sandstone balustrades and chattris.

City Palace + Jantar Mantar

The City Palace and the Jantar Mantar, both in the old walled city (Pink City) of Jaipur, located one opposite the other were built by the founder of Jaipur, Maharaja Sawai Jai Singh II.

The city palace is a striking complex of colours, doors and paintings on the wall. Within the palace are the Mubarak Mahal or the erstwhile palace of reception which is now the Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II Museum showcasing unique royal costumes with the traditional Sanganeri prints and folk embroidery. A section of the palace is still home to the last ruling royal family, while another section houses a restaurant, only lately opened.

Jantar Mantar a UNESCO World Heritage Site, is the largest of the five astronomical observatories built by the Maharaja. A beautiful garden that houses sixteen intricate and extensive geometric devices built in brick and mortar were designed to measure time, track celestial bodies, observe the orbits of the planets.

& Even one dedicated to the twelve zodiac signs.

Dinner & Stay @ Royal Heritage Haveli

The Royal Heritage Haveli has to be my favourite-st hotel ever and I will probably go back to Jaipur just to stay here again. Still owned by Maharaja Jai Singh of Jaipur, this 18th century hunting lodge is today a quiet boutique hotel that sure is a ‘tranquil haven of space and luxury to the discerning few’ as they like to call it themselves.

& a candle light dinner under the sprawling tree in the courtyard is just the right bit of romantic.

Explorers Guide

Nearby Places of Interest

Amer Fort + Panna Meena ka Kund + Anokhi Museum of Hand Printing
The stunning Amer Fort, sitting atop a hillock and reached by a road traversed not just by your everyday vehicles but also by hundreds of elephants (if that’s your style) is Jaipur’s star attraction.
Along the road up to Amer Fort, stop by at the Panna Meena ka Kund, a small but beautiful eight storeyed step well, complete with the quintessential Rajasthani chhatris at its four corners.
Set up to showcase and sensitise visitors to art of traditional hand block printing on fabrics, the Anokhi Museum of Hand Printing housed in a restored haveli under the shadow of the Amer Fort has been making it to the must-visit list of the discerning traveller interested in understanding the artisanal heritage of a place.

I had shot this years ago on a small Sony Cybershot, while on a holiday there with my parents.

Nahargarh Fort
The Nahargarh Fort is famous for its sunset views of the city and the two kilometre trek to the top along with the restaurants here are quite the favourite with locals, come an evening.

Getting Around

Uber is the most convenient way of getting around the city. Book it on Uber Hire and you can get around in comfort and still not burn a hole in your pocket.

Save on the ride, splurge on the stay!

Read Next: 7 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 2017

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January 28, 2018
A Heritage Walk through The Walled City of Udaipur

Think Rajasthan and immediately pops into your head a picture of undulating waves of sand shimmering golden in the sun and a row of women all but hidden in their bright twirling lehengas and odhanis, walking away with pots of water on their head as thick silver anklets catch the sun on a hot windy afternoon.

But, you couldn’t be more wrong with Udaipur. Touted to be India’s most romantic city, it sits hidden between lush green hills endlessly stretching away in every direction.

To get a real feel of Udaipur though and its old world charm, a heritage walk along the winding thoroughfares of its walled city is what you need.

Choc-a-bloc with beautiful marble palaces, ancient temples, bright colourful havelis with facades of intricate jharokas, there is a temple at every turn and every house along the way has walls adorned with frescos in the miniature painting style of the region.

Udaipur’s old city is divided into sections by huge ornate gates along these erstwhile rampart walls that are locally known as pols. Like Hathi Pol or Elephant Gate which leads you from the main street, on to the grandiose City Palace. There are boards everywhere directing you to the next point of interest on the walk, be it a ghat, a haveli, a palace or even a museum.

Of these, the Gangaur Ghat with its imposing gateway and stunning Jagdish Mandir, made entirely in white marble are the most striking. The city palace is too, in its flamboyance.

Bhattiyani Chouhatta

If one follows the route charted by the Udaipur Nagar Nigam, the city’s municipal council, then Bhattiyani Chouhatta is the starting point. An area within the walled city, the original fortified city from 450 years ago.

Here is where most of the havelis, temples and points of interest along this heritage walk are. Billboards all across the dusty crooked lanes in the old city announce backpacker friendly budget hotels, yoga and Indian cooking classes and rooftop cafes that proclaim views of the famously beautiful Lake Pichola.

Lake Pichola

Everything Udaipur, is in and around this lake, the Lake Pichola. The Aravallis, the gardens, palaces, havelis and temples.

The walk leads you through hidden alleyways, past traditional Rajasthani homes and the numerous temples and out on to the banks of the Pichola.

Prominent on the lake are Jag Niwas and Jag Mandir. While the best known of these is the Taj Lake Palace or Jag Niwas, as it was called by Maharana Jagat Singh II, whose pleasure palace it was in the 1700s. It is the Jag Mandir Island Palace that stands out, with its marble courtyard and ornate elephants jutting out into the water from every corner. It was here that Shah Jahan was given refuge by the Maharana of Mewar, Raja Karan Singh in 1623.

Gangaur Ghat

A ghat dedicated to one of the most important local festivals of Rajasthan, the Gangaur Festival. An 18 day festival celebrated by the women of Mewar in honour of the Goddess Gauri and her consort Lord Shiva (Gana). This ghat on the Lake Pichola serves as the location for the culmination of the Gangaur festivities and as the end point for the procession that begins from the City Palace.

Though the Gangaur Ghat sees the most crowds during this festival that celebrates women, it remains a popular landmark and is dearly loved by the locals even otherwise during the rest of the year.

Bagore ki Haveli

Located on the other side of Gangaur Ghat, this quirky museum was once a haveli. An eighteenth century haveli of over a hundred rooms, it was built by the then prime minister of Mewar in the classic style of the day.

Today it houses period costumes and photographs and hosts daily folk music & dance shows intended to be an evocative display of the Mewar culture.

Not to be missed here are the world’s largest turban and the Queens Chambers intricately done up entirely in mirrors.

Jagdish Temple

A lyrical work of carving in three storeys of white marble, the Jagdish Temple right in the heart of Udaipur’s old city is where all the roads converge. Accessed by a steep flight of stairs, this temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu comes as a complete surprise once you reach its main courtyard, flanked by the massive marble elephants.

Inspite of the buildings crowding around it, you will want to stay a while, as you are still doing the mandated parikrama (circumambulation) of the temple, stopping all the while to pay homage at the four smaller shrines dedicated to the Lords Ganesha, Shiva, Surya and the Goddess Shakti. For the entire temple is covered in carvings so intricate and interesting, that you are transfixed.

City Palace

The City Palace, Rajasthan’s biggest palace is imposing in its grandeur to say the least.

A series of palaces built over a period of four hundred years, as soon you enter through the Bari Pol or the Great Gate, you are greeted by huge arches. This was where massive weighing scales once stood, to measure out the ruling Maharana’s weight in gold – to be given away to the citizens of Mewar – on his birthday.

From these to the elephant parking bays just outside the entrance, which now serve as a look out point for idyllic views of the city set against the Aravalli ranges, everything about this palace complex is beautiful.

Built in a combination of Rajput and Mughal style of architecture typical of the era, a portion of the City Palace is open to the public and ranks number one on the list of things to see when in Udaipur.

Read Next: 24 Hours in Jaipur

January 19, 2018
Travel Wishlist: Top 25 Adventure Destinations in India

Never one for bucket lists, as I was working on a story for an In-flight magazine, I thought why not make this list of ’25 Things To Do in 2018′ my own??

& here I am, beginning the new year with a list, even if it isn’t a list of resolutions!!

1. Beach Trekking in Gokarna

If the walk along the iconic Om beach – that gets its name from its shape – was a trail in itself and the Shiva Climb there on the beach, a trek in itself, Gokarna has much more to offer both in terms of trails and beaches. Beach trekking is unique to this part of the coast as the beaches along this stretch are sandwiched between the Western Ghats and the Arabian Sea.

Wish: To ascend and descend hills, climb over boulders with the waves lapping at your feet…all just to get to the beach!
Best Time to Visit: October – March. It is pleasant in Gokarna around then.

2. Bouldering in Hampi – Done ??

Hampi is a landscape dotted with boulders and massive granite monoliths. So much so that this temple town that doubles up as a hippie haven is touted to be the largest bouldering area in the world. Bouldering is pure rock climbing at its very basic. Leaving behind ropes and harnesses one climbs short but tricky boulders using only one’s strength, balance and technique. The only equipment if any is the bouldering pad that one can keep at the base of the boulder to manage the risk of falling.

& Done!

Wish: Why not? Hadn’t even heard of it when I booked my tickets to Hampi!
Best Time to Visit: December – January. Hampi is super hot, so the cooler months.

3. Bungee Jumping in Rishikesh

Little does it come as a surprise that the destination which made white water rafting fashionable in India also boasts of being home to the highest bungee jump in the country. The fixed platform in Mohanchatti which is at a height of 83 metres extends up to the middle of the valley and then it is a jump right down to within touching distance of the eddying waters of the river Ganga.

Wish: Ahem!
Best Time to Visit: October – May. Come monsoon and all the action pauses, here, in the adventure capital of our country.

4. Camping at The Chandratal Lake – Done ??

To pitch a tent amidst the magnificent Himalayas on a freezing summer night and to sleep under the skylight sky is amazing enough in itself. But if the campsite was to be at the Chandratal Lake, this remote and not-so-easily accessible crescent shaped Moon Lake, there then you have the trip of a lifetime guaranteed.

Done!
On that life changing trip back in 2013.

Read: The Road to Serenity: Chandratal
(Incidentally, this was my first post on blog. It reads so different now!)

Wish: To go back.
Best Time to Visit: July – October. The only time that the road is open.

5. Caving in Meghalaya

Disappear into the caves of the Khasi Hills. Feel like Batman.(Isn’t that reason enough?!?)

Well, they say it is the thrill of discovery. Venturing into the dark unknown and coming up on fossil passages, limestone stalactites and stalagmites, bats and other endemic creatures. There are more than a thousand cave systems in the hills of Khasi, Garo and Jaintia, waiting to be explored. Extending to a formidable 30,397 meters, India’s longest cave, the Krem Liat Prah is also one of them.

Wish: Ducking through jagged outcroppings in a cave, finding my way through rocks and water, chancing upon discoveries.
Best Time to Visit: December – March. Winter is when the water levels in the caves are at their lowest.

6. Cliff Diving in Dawki

The name says it all, you simply jump off a cliff into the waiting waters below.

A two and half hours drive from Shillong, the turquoise blue waters of the Dawki river surrounded by the dense foliage of an equal intense green make for a picture perfect setting to do that.

Wish: To take that plunge. Dive straight off a cliff.
Best Time to Visit: March – April. Dawki is said to be at its beautiful best in Spring.

7. Dune Bashing in Jaisalmer

An off roading experience in the sand dunes of a desert that is Dune Bashing for you. & the only off roading I have done so far is on man made tracks.

Read: Have I found the perfect partner for my Road Trips?

So, in Jaisalmer it should be a rollercoaster ride through the dynamic shifting sands of the Thar Desert.

Wish: Yay, stormy sea of sand.
Best Time to Visit: November – March. Winter is usually the best time to enjoy the outdoors in a desert.

8. Flyboarding in Goa

Shoot out of the water and fly in the sky, Ironman style. That is flyboarding for you, the latest water sport to hit Goa.

A jetpack powered by a jet ski propels the rider up on a buoyant flyboard, that is quite similar to a hoverboard; only this one allows you to ride in the air, upto to fifteen metres above water. This forceful water powered jet pack can push you both into the sky or underwater.

Wish: To learn how to swim and then Go Goa!
Best Time to Visit: October – May. When the skies are clear and the waters fairly placid.

9. Hot Air Ballooning at The Taj Mahal

Nothing spells romance like catching the sun rise behind the iconic Taj Mahal, from an early morning flight in the sky.

Wish: To take a hot air balloon ride against the stunning white marble mausoleum.
Best Time to Visit: September – March. Hot air ballooning is an activity for the dry season.

PS: A six day Taj Balloon Festival happens in November every year, and that could be an interesting time too, for a view of the Taj Mahal from a vantage point like no other.

10. Kayaking in ~~Alappuzha~~ Kannur – Done ??

Think beyond the houseboat. Go kayaking in the narrow inland canals of the famed backwaters of Kerala, in where a house boat wouldn’t reach and watch the villages come to life as dawn breaks. Revel in the bird call, all while paddling low in the water.

Help me fulfil this dream, vote for me to send on the Kerala Blog Express Season 5, here: http://season5.keralablogexpress.com/index.php/user/single_participant/1465

Yes, I did go on the Kerala Blog Express Season 5 & I did go kayaking! Only, not in Alappuzha. We went kayaking at the Dharmadam Beach in Kannur. & I owe a BIG Thank you to my readers for making this dream come true for me! ??

Wish: To wake up with an ache in my arms from a morning well spent.
Best Time to Visit: November – February. Mild Winters.

11. Paragliding in Bir Billing

Bir Billing is synonymous with paragliding in India. This beautiful Himalayan valley in Himachal Pradesh even hosted the Paragliding World Cup in 2015, where pilots from over a hundred and forty countries participated. Soaring over the Kangra valley with wondrous up close views of the Dhauladhar Ranges, a paragliding flight lasts from anywhere between fifteen minutes to thirty and can be done either solo or in tandem.

Wish: To take off at an altitude of eight thousand feet above sea level in Billing and land four thousand feet below in Bir.
Best Time to Visit: December & January OR the rest of October to June. All through the year except monsoon is paragliding season. But here in Bir Billing paragliding season can be divided between the snow covered months and otherwise.

12. Parasailing in Malvan

Tarkarli Beach in Malvan, Maharasthra, along the Konkan coast is quickly emerging as the hub for water sports. This eight kilometre stretch of white sand beach runs parallel to the backwaters of the Karli river, extending upto the Devbaug Sangam where the river meets the Arabian Sea, making for a unique location to go parasailing.

Wish: To glide like a bird in the open skies, as my parasail wing catches the wind and watch the confluence of the backwaters and the sea.
Best Time to Visit: October – March. While there is the chill of winter to counter the tropical humidity of the coast.

13. River Crossing in Dandeli

Very much like zip lining, river crossing involves crossing a river in a harness on a rope and in Dandeli it is the fast flowing river Kali that you cross. A mere two hours from Goa, Dandeli has always been the destination of choice for the discerning adventure seeker when it came to water sports. But river crossing, which is only now gaining popularity, should be quite a change from the regular zip line.

Wish: To go whee over a river and not get dizzy at the terrible current!!
Best Time to Visit: October – May.

14. River Rafting in Coorg

Think Coorg and you think of leisurely strolls through the mist laden coffee plantations in the quiet country side of Karnataka. But Coorg isn’t just a hill station, for come monsoon, the Scotland of India turns into a hot spot for river rafting or white water rafting as it is called. As the river Barapole drops from the Bramhagiri range of the Western Ghats into the rocky landscape, it turns turbulent, gushing through the forest, over the rapids and into the Bramhagiri Wildlife Sanctuary, making it ideal for rafting.

Wish: To go rafting in South India. ( In Rishikesh too may be, but thats for later!)
Best Time to Visit: July – September. Monsoon is your season for rafting.

15. Road Tripping from Manali to Leh

It is the quintessential Himalayan road trip, needing no introduction. A road trip along India’s most celebrated route, the four hundred and eighty seven kilometre stretch between Manali to Leh, is the stuff of dreams. From the twenty one hairpin bends of the Gata Loops to the five high altitude Himalayan Passes you cross, this road trip from Manali to Leh cannot but be the trip of a lifetime.

Wish: I have been on both ends of this route, on two separate road trips. Now I want to go the entire length.

Enroute Gramphu, heading towards Leh from Manali

Approaching Tanglang La in Ladakh on the Leh – Manali Highway

Best Time to Visit: May – September. The Leh – Manali Highway, as it is called, is open for a little more than the four months of Summer. Besides it is also peak tourist season in Ladakh when the stark landscape comes alive in all the glory of its summer colours.

16. Scuba Diving in Havelock Islands

Going underwater in the open ocean, exploring the stunning world of beautiful coral reefs and watching life go by in that suspended moment, Scuba Diving opens up realms that one has otherwise only imagined. The tropical island of Havelock in the Bay of Bengal is home to some of the most popular dive sites of India. Starting with under twenty metres, one can choose from any of these dive sites that can be reached by boat, based on one’s experience and PADI certification level.

Wish: That ultimate adventure once I learn to swim, to explore a realm that has before now been inaccessible to me.
Best Time to Visit: February – March. Though November through April is scuba diving season in the Andaman and Nicobar Islands, these two months offer the best chances of calm conditions.

17. Skiing in Auli

Packed up cosily amidst the snow kissed peaks of the Himalayas, Auli has only lately risen to popularity as India’s top destination for Skiing. Offering beautiful views of the Nanda Devi Peak, Auli is along the route to the Valley of Flowers, Badrinath and the trek route to Kauri Pass. A cable car operates from Joshimath to Auli during the day and one can take this four kilometre ride up to get to Auli, stay at any of the resorts that have now mushroomed here and ski along the gentle slopes of the Garhwal Mountains.

Wish: To let go.
Best Time to Visit: January – March, when the slopes are carpeted in thick snow.

18. Snorkelling in Lakshadweep

With its living coral reefs of varied and brilliant hues glistening through the crystal clear waters of the lagoons surrounding the various islands of Lakshadweep, there can be no better destination in India for snorkelling. All you need is a basic familiarity with swimming and with a mask, snorkel and a set of fins you are raring to go. The shallow waters here only help, making it easier for anyone wanting to take a peek into the ocean, at the spectacular life underwater.

Wish: One step before that dive?
Best Time to Visit: December – April. Pleasantest months for a generally humid tropical island.

19. Snow Boarding in Gulmarg

Snow Boarding came later, but it sure is more intense than skiing, for it is all about balance and you virtually have no other control, neither on your speed nor in the manoeuvring. It takes upto five days for one to get a hang of the sport and to begin enjoying the slide down the snow clad mountain slopes at dizzying speeds. So prepare to set aside atleast a week to embark on this adventure. Owing to the popularity of the destination, equipment is readily available and easy to rent.

Wish: To go on a long holiday and do nothing but chill at the resort and indulge in all the adventure that they have to offer!
Best Time to Visit: December – February. When the ski capital of the country disappears under a thick blanket of powdery snow.

20. Surfing in Mulki

Located on the west coast of India, Mulki is a little ashram town and now a surf town, just north of Mangalore. Pretty late in catching on the wave of surfing, India’s first surf retreat stands here in Mulki. Here is the Ashram Surf Retreat where you can get surf lessons on your holiday and even try out their surf yoga and wake boarding.

Wish: To turn hippie in search of that adrenaline rush.
Best Time to Visit: May – September. The season for surfing in India is during monsoon and for a few weeks before the start of monsoon. It is when the big waves come in ranging from anywhere between eight feet to fifteen feet.

21. Trekking to ~~The Valley of Flowers~~ Hemkund Sahib

A UNESCO World Heritage Site, the Valley of Flowers is a breathtakingly beautiful high altitude meadow of alpine flowers in the Himalayas. The trek route to the Valley of Flowers goes through the same base camp, Gangharia, as the one to Hemkund Sahib ( the world’s highest Gurudwara and an important pilgrimage centre for the Sikh) and diverges along the way. Owing to which this trek route is not just very popular but also logistically one of the best equipped. From helicopters that fly in to the base camp every twenty minutes to mules and porters that take on from there, there are enough arrangements to ease your trek if needed.

Read: In Pictures: The Valley of Flowers

Wish: Last year, I chose to stay back in Ghangaria and not attempt the one day trek to Hemkund, after the Valley of Flowers. This year, I wish to grow in confidence and complete the trek.
Best Time to Visit: July – August. When the valley is in full bloom.

22. Waterfall Rapelling in Kolad

Somewhere between Mumbai – Pune in Maharashtra is Kolad, where the river Kundalika comes gushing down in a cascade from the western ghats. In a twist to the usual rappelling or abseiling, where one comes down a rock face in a controlled descent, in waterfall repelling one does it through a waterfall.

Read: Abseiling in The Blue Mountains

Wish: To climb up the craggy outcrops of the Sahyadris and come down the torrential waterfall in one continuous swoop, suspended only in a harness.
Best Time to Visit: June – September. Monsoons = Waterfall season in India.

23. Wildlife Safari in Kabini

Named after the river Kabini, this former hunting ground of the Maharaja of Mysore in the Nagarhole National Park is famed for its open jeep safaris and sightings of leopards and elephant herds. A safari in this lesser known South Indian national park made it yo my list of things to do this year, not just for the fact that it is home to the rare black panther but also because one does get to catch a glimpse – and quite frequently – of the Sloth Bear, the Malabar Giant Squirrel, packs of wild dogs or even that elusive tiger in its natural habitat.

Picture Courtesy: Angad Achappa

Wish: To see a baby elephant. All those who know me, know my love for elephants and would you believe it, I am yet to see a little one. ?
Best Time to Visit: March – May. When the dry summer draws out the animals to the edge of the river and sightings are more likely.

24. Zip Lining in Mussoorie

To fly over the dense green deodar forest of Mussoorie, on the highest zip line in India. Going upto speeds of ninety kilometres per hour this zip line at Clouds End in the Mussoorie Adventure Park is also the longest zip line in the Himalayas.

Wish: For that feeling of flight.
Best Time to Visit: April – June. Peak tourist season in Mussoorie and also the best time to go zip lining, for the Himalayan summer makes it a pleasurable experience.

25. Zorbing in Manali

From a honeymooners paradise to becoming the gateway to a road trip to not just Ladakh but also the Spiti Valley, Manali has come a long way. And, the latest activity to catch the fancy of adventure seekers here in Manali is zorbing.

So, what does one do while zorbing? Simple really, just get into an orb and roll down the mountain through the green open spaces and take in the view. Much like the hamster ball chase scene in Jurassic World, only minus the dinosaurs.

Wish: To imagine being chased by dinosaurs.
Best Time to Visit: March – June. Summers, when one can roll unencumbered by snow or slush.

What’s your travel wishlist for 2018? Did I miss something?
Let me know in the comments below.

January 2, 2018
5 Unmissable Places to visit in Warangal

Who doesn’t know the Kakatiya Kala Toranam? It is the omnipresent symbol of Telangana Heritage, incorporated even in the emblem of this newly formed state. A massive stone gateway and the proud legacy of Kakatiya art and architecture, one of these today stands in a park in Warangal. With the rest of the ruins from the Kakatiya fort.

Read on to find other such unmissable places to visit in Warangal to add to your trip itinerary.

#1 Thousand Pillar Temple

The most popular tourist place in Warangal is the Thousand Pillar Temple.

It has featured in numerous Telugu movies, most prominently in Varsham, Bahubali star Prabhas’s first major romantic blockbuster. The many songs and scenes from movie shot here in the rain are by far the most stunning take on the Thousand Pillar Temple.

Constructed in 1163 AD by Rudra Deva in the Chalukya style, it has three presiding deities, Vishnu, Shiva and Surya. The most recognisable feature of this temple besides its richly carved pillars is the huge monolithic Nandi of black stone.

The Thousand Pillar Temple – currently closed to public and under restoration

Some areas of the Thousand Pillar Temple are closed off for renovation but there is a fully functional Hindu temple on the grounds in the same architectural style. So don’t just leave it off of your list of places to visit in Warangal. It is still is the place from where you should start your day in the city.

#2 Warangal Fort & Kakatiya Kala Toranam

If you are using Google Maps to navigate within the city, look for Warangal Fort Park and not Warangal Fort. For that will take you to where the original fort once stood and which is now just a crumbling structure of stone, overrun in grass.

& yes what is now referred to as the Warangal Fort is just a park with well laid out pieces of sculptures and entry ways from the fort, including the Kakatiya Kala Toranam.

Ruins of Warangal Fort

Kakatiya Kala Toranam in the Warangal Fort Park

TOURIST INFO
Warangal Fort Park is a ticketed monument.
Open from 10am to 7pm, all days of the week.
There is also a sound and light show here every evening after sunset.

#3 Kush Mahal

Built within the walls of Warangal Fort, Kush Mahal is Tughlaq era hall. Though the original use for which it was built is not known for sure, we know that when the Tughlaqs conquered Warangal, they razed Kakatiya architecture to ground and built over them to mark their conquest.

So its a stones throw from that which it aimed to obliterate – the gateway and what it stood for.

Though not counted amongst popular tourist places of Warangal, it is a local favourite.

#4 Bhadrakali Temple

Set against a backdrop of water and hills, the Badhrakali temple isn’t just scenic. There is something powerful about the place, for darshan here is an intense experience.

Making it the foremost of places to visit in Warangal for many.

#5 Ramappa Temple & Lake

Ageless in its magnificence, it is as if the Ramappa Temple is a time capsule. This medieval temple from 1213 AD is beautiful beyond words and almost intact.

Definitely one of those tourist places in Warangal that one will regret to miss.

Did You Know? The bricks used to build the Ramappa Temple were so light that they can actually float on water!

It is also the only temple in the country to be known by the name of its sculptor. No surprise there for its sculptures are truly exquisite and an image of them will probably stay with you forever.

5 minutes from the temple is the Ramappa Lake.

Peaceful and serene it is neither crowded nor noisy, even on a weekend. The resort on its banks serving piping hot, spicy Andhra food makes Ramappa an ideal location for a quiet overnighter.

#6 Laknavaram Lake

The Lakanavaram Lake is beautiful and its waters soothing no doubt, but its popularity is its curse.

From its yellow suspension bridge to the mini island resort on the lake, it is so popular as a weekend getaway from Hyderabad that it gets nearly impossible to even stay a while if your intention is to wind down and enjoy being outdoors with nature.

Inspite of all that, here is a lake which was formed in the 13^th century by closing down three narrow valleys and is actually so well hidden by the surrounding hills that even today you wouldn’t be able to see it till you actually reach the bridge.

So it is worth a quick day trip if you are in the area and want to tick it off your warangal tourist places list!

GETTING THERE:

Hyderabad to Warangal Distance 145 Kms
Route Take the NH163 via Outer Ring Road to reach Warangal in two and a half hours.

Warangal to Ramappa Temple Distance 70 Kms
Warangal to Lakanavaram Lake Distance 70 Kms
Ramappa Temple to Laknavaram Lake Distance 29 Kms

Stay: Tourism Department’s Haritha Kakatiya Hotel at Warangal or Lake View Haritha Resort at Ramappa Lake. Call on +91 9000282897 for bookings and information.

Explore Other City Guides:

24 Hours in Jaipur
A Heritage Walk through The Walled City of Udaipur

December 15, 2017
5 Reasons You Should Travel to Ladakh Off-Season

Winter is coming.

A hackneyed phrase for a hackneyed destination?
So why not explore this Himalayan land off-season, before things change.

Here are five reasons.

Reason #1 – Drive through constantly changing landscapes.

The first thing one notices in Ladakh in winter is that here the landscape changes every day, every hour and just driving through this pristine and untouched white Ladakh is in itself a beautiful journey.

Right from the glittering ice on the frozen Indus River by the road as the sun comes up to how the sun kissed peaks in the clear distance light up at sunset, every minute you drive through this high altitude desert brings you closer to the beauty there is in this world.

Reason #2 – Have the popular tourist spots all to yourself.

Prayer flags flutter in the cool crisp breeze against the stark backdrop of the snow covered mountains touching the flat white sky and there isn’t a soul in sight. This however isn’t just a one off experience when you make that random stop along your road trip.

Be it the popular Shanti Stupa, the monasteries in and around Leh or the roads that whisk you off further into the heart of this exotic land, you will find them all relatively deserted, save a few locals.

Reason #3 – Experience subzero temperatures.

Bundled up in layers and insulated pants, I experienced temperatures of the kind I had only dreamt of till then.

As the climate world over steadily changes or worsens, depending on the world view that one subscribes to, Ladakh too has experienced a winter this year that has not had a precedent in these many years past.

This meant that we could not visit any of the lakes. It took five men just to get us out and back on our way as our massive SUVs struggled to trudge through the five feet deep snow on the road to Tso Moriri. Be that as it may, every experience like this in the stillness of the mountains as you watch the flurries of snow swirling down to your feet is a memory to be savoured a lifetime.

Reason #4 – Meet the Nomads.

In Changthang Valley in the Eastern Ladakh Region is Puga. A small nomadic village, where Tibetan Nomads on the Indian side settle down for the four cold winter months and tend to their animals. They come from the village of Hanle, their summer home. Traversing the same migratory routes across Ladakh every year and staying in their semi permanent encampments in Puga.

The Changpas are a warm and friendly people and their children spending their school vacations here, will happily take you around, for the novelty of visitors in winter is a welcome distraction.

Read: In the Nomadic Settlement of Puga

Reason #5 – Witness changing seasons.

If you have already been to Ladakh during the tourist season between May to September, this is reason enough for you to revisit the land of high passes off season. For, while the charm of Ladakh in summer lies in its vivid blue skies and stark landscapes, winter Ladakh’s lies in the powdered sugar patterns of snow on the same barren and rocky landscape.

Only, minus the crowds.

Winter Ladakh’s biggest draw though, remains the Chadar Trek. As winter sets in and temperatures drop, the north flowing tributary of the Indus River, the Zanskar freezes over. What in summer is a mighty, indomitable swirl is tamed by a ‘blanket of ice’, the chadar that forms on it. This sheet of ice that is on an average six feet deep, is crossed by hundreds of trekkers every year to see the now celebrated frozen waterfall at Naerak.

As human pressure on this phenomenon of nature increases, the possibility of a trek on the Zanskar itself disappears. Rapidly.

Explorers Guide

Getting There: There are regular flights flying from Delhi to Leh.
Stay: The Grand Dragon in Leh. From window views that can keep you in for hours to the superb heating that keeps out the harsh bite of winter in the Himalayas, this is as luxurious as it gets. Not to mention the brilliant food on their menu. Those cheese toasts! *sigh*
Shop: The Tibetan Refugee Market on the road leading from the popular hotels to the Leh Market. It is a good place to stock up on all the winter essentials that one might have missed out on packing. For while most shops remain shut during the winter months, this market is open through out the year and one can find everything from monkey caps and gloves to neck gaiters and winter boots.

Read More on Ladakh:

Ladakh Festival: Celebrating Life & Beyond
Royal Ruins: Shey Palace
In the Realm of The Passes: Khardung La

November 12, 2017
Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Uppada

Every second house in the village of Uppada, in coastal Andhra Pradesh is a handloom store. Just like Mangalagiri. It goes with the territory. For it too is a handloom village that has brought forth a commercially successful style of saree.

Known for its soft texture and lightness, what defines this saree is its thread count. A hundred threads go in lengthwise while a hundred and twenty go in sideways. Not a thread more, not a thread less. For it is this thread count that ensures the quality and feel of this beautifully rich handwoven fabric.

Once the royal garment of the rulers of Andhra Pradesh, weavers were prohibited from weaving these sarees for anyone outside of the royal household.

Though it is now the favoured form of wedding saree, the Uppada weave has had quite a roller coaster ride. From being a simple cotton saree in the 1950s, to fading out in the 80s to achieving the Geographical Indication tag in the 2000s. Today this saree sells from anywhere upwards of Rs.6000/- to around Rs.3,00,000/-, not taking into account the custom orders of course.

This style of weaving is a local variation on the three hundred year old Jamdani technique. The Uppada Saree evolved to its current form when Bangladeshi weavers came and settled in Uppada and the traditional Jamdani technique took on a new essence.

So, don’t be surprised if you hear the Uppada Pattu (silk) Sarees being referred to as Uppada Jamdani Sarees. For its origins can be traced back to today’s Bangladesh.

Would You Believe?
That late Ms.Jayalalitha, erstwhile Chief Minister of Tamil Nadu had once come to Uppada to commission a saree made with threads of pure molten gold!
& that today there still is a picture of her in that saree at the weaver’s house.

Explorers Guide

Getting There: 16 kilometres from Kakinada and almost 500 kilometres from Hyderabad, a trip to Uppada is better done on a road trip through Konaseema.
Remember: Avoid the bigger stores with the glass fronts and the air-conditioning. It is in the smaller houses that you will find the better stuff. Not just in terms of the quality of the threads used but also in terms of design and colour.
Don’t Miss: Sunset at Uppada Beach

Read Next: Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Karipakam

Other Artisan Villages of India:

Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Sri Kalahasti
Artisan Villages of Telangana: Nirmal
Artisan Villages of Telangana: Cheriyal

November 8, 2017
Great Living Chola Temples – Vol II: Gangaikonda Cholapuram

Second on UNESCO’s list of The Great Living Chola Temples, is the Brihadeeswara Temple at Gangaikonda Cholapuram.

In a tiny village lost in time, is this 982 year old temple. This Brihadeeswara Temple too is built on the same lines as the Big Temple in Thanjavur, complete with a massive stone sculpture of Nandi facing the main shrine. Upon the death of Rajaraja I the capital was shifted from Thanjavur to Gangaikonda Cholapuram and there came about this smaller version of the original Brihadeeswara Temple.

This temple complex isn’t merely structurally beautiful. It is also tranquil. Owing not just to its gentler architecture but also probably to it’s secluded location.

After driving around all morning and noon in the summer heat of Tamil Nadu, it was evening by the time we got here.

& what with the setting sun deciding to play peek-a-boo from behind the looming rain clouds, an all pervading sense of peace descended over me, as I took my time exploring, strolling around the expansive, almost deserted grounds of the temple.

The bronze sculptures here are said to be priceless specimens of Chola art, but it was the Simhakeni or The Lion Well, that I found singularly intriguing.

Explorers Guide

Trip Duration: Day Trip
Getting There: Road Trip from Thanjavur.
Route: Thanjavur – Darasuram – Gangaikonda Cholapuram -Thanjavur
(183 Kilometres)
Distance from Thanjavur to Darasuram: 72 Kilometres
Distance from Darasuram to Gangaikonda Cholapuram: 39 Kilometres
Distance from Gangaikonda Cholapuram to Thanjavur: 72 Kilometres

Read First: The Great Living Chola Temples: Vol I

Other Temples in Tamil Nadu:

Rockfort Temple, Trichy

September 21, 2017
In Photos: The Valley of Flowers

The Valley of Flowers. A breathtakingly beautiful (literally!) high altitude meadow of alpine flowers in the Western Himalayas.

Accessible only through a trek route through the mountains, this valley is located in a transition zone that lies between the Zanskar Region of the Himalayas to the north and the Greater Himalayas to the south. Together with the Eastern and Western Himalayas on either side this valley is endowed with some extraordinary bio diversity.

From numerous restricted range bird species to highly threatened species of medicinal plants this high-altitude Himalayan valley isn’t just about stunning flowerscapes.

Together with the rugged wilderness of the Nanda Devi, these two National Parks are inscribed as an UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Commandeered over by India’s second highest mountain, Nanda Devi and reached through the world’s deepest gorge, Rishi Ganga, the Nanda Devi National Park is renowned for its spectacular topography. It is surrounded by glaciers and meadows, of which the Valley of Flowers is one.

Also Read: 7 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 2017

September 2, 2017
Road Tripping through Konaseema

Konaseema. The lush bucolic countryside of Coastal Andhra. ‘Kona’ for corner, this land wedged into a corner surrounded by water, is one of the most fertile deltas of Southern India. The Godavari river keeps you company, as you Road Trip through these idyllic coastal towns. Known for its beauty, Konaseema has been depicted extensively with its swaying coconut trees and green backwater canals.

But, how best do you enjoy this beauty? For it is no tourist destination like Kerala where houseboats abound aplenty on the backwaters.

So here I chose one town, rather a small city, Kakinada and put together a two day itinerary for a road trip through Konaseema, that include visits to beaches, ancient temples and artisan villages.

Window Views of Konaseema

Story goes.. There was once a powerful asura (demon) Tarakasura who was at war with the gods and thanks to a boon, he could only be killed by a son of Lord Shiva. So there began a battle between him and Kumaraswamy, Shiva’s younger son and Lord Ganesha’s brother. But, at every deadly blow, the rakshasa, Tarakasura would reform limb to limb from his cut off body parts. This power to reform came from a Shiva Linga that the demon wore. So the only way to destroy him was to break the lingam first. Eventually, there came to be five pieces of this Siva lingam and these fell in five different places in Andhra Pradesh. Temples were then built in those locations around the fragments. Those five ancient temples now constitute the Pancharamam.

& Kakinada happens to have two of those in driving distance.

Bhimaramam (at Samarlakota)

All the pancharamam temples are two storeyed stone temples for they are all home to massive Shivalingas.

To continue the story, the five fragments were installed and worshipped at five temples by the five gods, Indra, Surya, Chandra, Vishnu and Kumaraswamy. This one near Samarlakota was by Kumaraswamy himself. & the temple itself is beautiful, peaceful and not too crowded.

Draksharamam

Probably the biggest and definitely the most celebrated of the five is Draksharamam, a pancharamam and also a shakti peetham. This 10th century temple has a rich history of mythological legends associated with. It is even believed to be the site of Dakshayagnam and that Daksha’s daughter Sati is none other than the Goddess Manikyamba who is alongside Shiva in this temple. Making it one of the major asthadasa shakti peethams in the country.

Annavaram

In Annavaram is a small hill, Ratnagiri, which is home to the temple dedicated to Lord Satyanarayan Swamy. A form of Lord Vishnu, that all Hindus worship at weddings, housewarmings and all important social occasions in one’s life. Making this a pilgrimage centre that is second in popularity only to Tirupati.

Uppada

The famous handcrafted Jamdani silk sarees come from here. Need I say more?

READ: Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Uppada

& The Beach

Explorers Guide

Getting There: Every place on the itinerary is less than an hour and a half from Kakinada.
Distances from Kakinada:
Samarlakota – 15 kilometres
Draksharamam – 34 kilometres
Annavaram – 45 kilometres
Uppada – 16 kilometres
Highway Pit Stop: One. Foodcourt near Annavaram.
Best Time to Visit: Monsoons
Stay: Paradigm Sarovar Portico. Comfortable and centrally located.
Vegetarian Restaurants: Subbaya’s Hotel, Bhimas.
Bring Back: Kakinada Kaja

July 23, 2017
20 Photos to Inspire You to Visit Spiti Valley this Summer

Here are 20 Photos to Inspire you to visit Spiti Valley this Summer. Ladakh’s lesser known cousin.

Separated from the popular Kullu valley in Himachal Pradesh by the Rohtang Pass, this middle land between India and Tibet is home to some of the most stunning lakes and monasteries in the world.

Of which, the mythical Chandratal Lake is one. Roads to the lake open mid July. So, peak tourist season in the Spiti Valley (for lack of a better word, tourism is yet to catch on here the way it has in Ladakh) is July and August. A difficult terrain as is, the four months of summer is when this desert valley in the Himalayas is most accessible.

Road Trip through tricky terrains, along rocky roads.

Be amazed by the stark landscapes.

Or the ‘moonscape’ of this land, as it has come to be known.

Rediscover colour.

Vivid skies, cloud shadows, wild flowers et al.

Fall in love.

With the starry nights.

Find peace amidst the many Himalayan Monasteries.

Befriend the most adorable kids you will ever see!

Stay with the locals in a homestay and experience life, their way.

Get to know them. In their houses that are built to shelter them in the harsh winter months when they can only be indoors. Over soft, doughy bread which is but a variant of our regular Indian roti and sweet milky chai.

& of course, no trip to Spiti Valley is complete without a visit to the Chandratal Lake.

Did You Know? The Chandratal Lake reflects the colour of the sky. So the lake is a bright turquoise blue at sunrise and a lush serene green at sunset!

Besides, it isn’t just this one lake in Spiti Valley that is breathtaking. There are more.

Read Next: a Fortress, a Monastery & a Lake: Dhankar

Read More on Spiti:

Driving through Lahaul & Spiti
Where The Monasteries are.
The Road to Serenity: Chandratal

July 18, 2017
Streets of Pondicherry – Part II: Architecture

They say if you can’t afford a ticket to Europe, travel to Pondicherry instead.

Stroll through the white part of town and be transported in time and place to a laid back French town. Or just wander the streets to absorb the distinctive Franco-Tamil culture of the place.

This small seaside town has a lot to offer for those who are looking for a leisurely laid-back holiday.

There is always coffee and croissants to intersperse your endless explorations with. For, Puducherry is blessed with both – cafes & heritage – in abundance!

Once an important port of call and a very prominent fortified town, as it changed hands, it was razed to ground and its ramparts flattened to what are today the tree lined boulevards of Pondicherry.

Laid out in a grid, the town is divided into the French and Tamil quarters by a storm water canal.

Both these quarters are so distinctive that you can tell which part of town you are in just from colour and style of the houses that go from classical European architecture to vernacular Tamil in a step.

As a lingering shadow of its European past follows you along its every street or rue as it known here, the historical richness of this town comes to life. In its art & architecture.

So what could possibly be a better way to discover this quaint little town than via Heritage Walks and Cycle Tours!

My first day in Pondicherry, I walked 9.6 kilometres to be exact. Discovering urban street art and restored heritage bungalows.

Besides, in this town of neat little blocks, self reliance comes easy to a girl, who just wants to explore, camera in hand.

I have been to Pondicherry thrice. & my longing for it only gets the stronger. :)

PS: INTACH or The Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage has been working with the Government of Pondicherry and its public to conserve and restore the unprotected architectural heritage and townscape of Pondicherry. Almost all of the heritage buildings you see today have been brought back to life by them. Even the rocks to tame the sea on the famous promenade were by them.

They conduct heritage walks in the white town every morning and evening. Ending on the promenade, this hour long walk is a perfect way to to get to the beach just in time for dusk.

Read First: Streets of Pondicherry – Part I: Art

July 12, 2017
Armoor: Of Rocks and Hidden Temples

In Nizamabad, is a temple. Though not quite as legendary as the Dichpally Ramalayam, but just as historic. Popularly known as Armoor Siddula Gutta, this is the Navanatha Siddheswara Temple and a series of cave temples inside the rock formations of Armoor.

Armoor Rock Formations

As you drive along the highway from Nizamabad to Armoor, you will go past a long stretch of hills that look like they were made by someone who has artistically and quite laboriously piled up boulders to form them. These are the Armoor Rock Formations. Naturally weathered rocks crafted by mother nature for over millions of years. They are so distinctively striking that they are but a natural stopover for anyone driving that way and rightly so.

Sitting in a cave somewhere in those rocks is the Navantha Siddula Gutta, gutta for cave and Navanatha Siddhas for the sages who are believed to still reside in them.

Armoor Siddula Gutta

Fifteen years ago a ghat road was built through the rock formation, leading straight to Siddulagutta. There is also a walkway from the Gol Bungalow for pilgrims wishing to do the climb up to the temple by foot.

Inside these caves is a Shiva Temple, where the Shiva Lingam is said to be swaymbhu or self-manifested. It is said that the lingam here has always been worshipped by devotees, since the Tretayuga. That is the second age of mankind, in Hinduism! We are currently in the fourth.

The entrance to this cave temple is a door that is barely three feet. Once you crouch through it, the cave opens up and skylight filters in. You walk along in the designated route through the caves and you will come across many little temples in interconnected passageways. Even one dedicated to the Goddess Durga.

Just outside the exit point of this narrow cave is a Ramalayam and the temple tank, Jeeva Koneru. Legend has it that during the construction of the temple, when this tank was dug, it failed to well up with water. So, Rampriyadas Maharaj, the person who built the temple took up a tapasaya, that lasted forty-one days. At the end of which Lord Rama himself came to him in a dream and the water in this is believed to have been blessed with curative powers. Making the armoor siddula gutta popular amongst pilgrims undertaking the journey to be healed.

Otherwise quiet and forgotten, the temple tends to get crowded on the festival of Sri Rama Navami. Work is currently underway to build facilities to accommodate these devotees and also other temples around it on the flat ground between the rocks.

Beyond the Cave Temples

Further up the rocks, the summit flattens out into a breezy plateau. The village of Armoor with its houses of redbrick roofs and the setting sun glinting off the black rocks lend the landscape such beauty, that it has actually been the location for many a movie shoot.

Just about perfect for that evening picnic.

Explorers Guide

Distance from Hyderabad: 184 Kilometres
Trip Duration: Day Trip
Getting There: Armoor is around 37 kilometres from the town of Nizamabad, along the intersection of NH7 and NH16.
Other Places of Interest: Pochampadu Dam (Sri Rama Sagar Project)
30 kilometres from here this dam on the Godavari River is widely accepted to be the lifeline of Northern Telangana. It is quite a sight to behold when its forty-two floodgates are open.

Read More on Temples in Telangana

Town of Hymns: Manthani
Lost in Time: Nagunur Ruins
South India’s City of Moksh: Alampur
A Song of Stone: Dichpally Ramalayam

July 1, 2017
Grand Mosque: Walking on Reflections

Reflections, Reflections. Everywhere.
From the pristine white marble floors to the inky blue pools around them, its all about reflections.

The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi, of course!

Because one is not grand enough. We have two.
One real & one a reflection.

Located in Abu Dhabi, the capital of United Arab Emirates and an hour and a half’s drive from Dubai, is The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. Undoubtedly one of the grandest mosques today, it is visible from all the three bridges that connect the Abu Dhabi island city to the main land. & as you enter Abu Dhabi, it only takes ten minutes before this gloriously grandiose mosque in its pristine white and gold strikes a splendid welcome. Eighty two domes of Macedonian marble greet you from afar, and you know you have arrived at your destination.

The Grand Mosque, as it is popularly known, has to be one of the most iconic structures of the region. Also, probably one of the most photographed since it opened its doors to public in 2007. It is now the world’s second favourite landmark on Trip Advisor.

Why even Rihanna posed here for photographs and created quiet the stir!

Through a car park, a security building with screened-off ‘cover up’ rooms, and there you are out in the open. Where the glint of the sun reflecting off the glossy white surfaces gilded in gold is sure to catch you off guard.

Go closer and you see the sprawling complex of arches mirrored in the pools that surround the mosque. You are free to enter, wander around and take pictures to your hearts content as long as you maintain the decorum that one would accord a place of worship.

Once inside you are treated to a visual spectacle. Unending rows of crowned columns, a thousand to be precise. Ceilings into which Moroccan artwork is etched alongside verses from the Holy Quran. A courtyard, whose minarets stretch out to touch the sky and semi precious stones of hues ranging from the stunning blue of lapis lazuli to the blood red of agate come together with mother-of-pearl, in a floral motif on the floor. And the prayer hall brings it all to a stoic still, with shafts of natural light streaming in through the windows, onto handwoven carpets and massive Swarovski chandeliers that gleam with the forty kilos of 24-carat galvanised gold in them.

While the experience of taking in its beauty can only be described as overwhelming, it is the vision behind its founding father that makes the Sheik Zayed Grand mosque truly grand. It was for him, the first president of UAE, the late Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, an expression of Islam’s true religious values. One of the few mosques that is open to people of all faiths alike it is surely worth a visit.

Explorers Guide

Distance from Dubai: 125 Kilometres
Trip Duration: Half a day
Best Time To Visit: Sunset. The facade lighting has been designed to shift with the changing phases of the moon. Everyday the mosque lights up anew as the moon progresses from a crescent to a whole. So as night falls and colours fade, watch the whites transform into brilliant reflections mirrored in its pools.
Timings: Open to visitors from 9am to 10pm all week, except on Friday mornings when it is open to worshippers alone. During the Holy Month of Ramadan, the mosque is open only in the mornings, Saturday through Thursday.
Remember: It is recommended for both men and women to dress modestly. If found inappropriate, you may be asked to wear an abaya (for women) / kandura (for men) over your clothes.

PS: The mosque is very tourist friendly with a cafe on the grounds, free wifi and complimentary guided tours.

June 13, 2017
Eataly: To the Perfect Tiratisu!

Verrina Tiratisu

Home made mascarpone cream cheese with coffee flavoured spongecake topped with cocoa powder.

That’s Eatly’s Tiramisu for you. Hands down the best in Dubai and for me, counted amongst the few memorable ones from all those countless Tiramisus I have ever had!

Just the sight of the Tiratisu (a healthier version of the usual Tiramisu with Soy ingredients) at Eataly, Festival City is sure to cheer you up.

Thats what they mean, and that is what they do! Tiramisu comes from the Italian for ‘cheer me up’ and its new age variation Tiratisu translates to ‘cheer you up’. So let us begin. ?

How it Looks

Overlooking the waterfront, the views from the dining area make for a pleasant meal even on a hot summer afternoon.

& Winter nights are for sitting out.

Main Course

Skip the pasta.
Go Pizza, all the way!

For with the Aglio Olio pasta there was so much to ask for. It was ordinary and tasteless at best. The Pizza Margherita though, was absolutely yum, especially the crunchy crust.

Given that they don’t give you a side of bread with your pasta and even the bread basket that they do provide with at the beginning – “complimentary”, like they will be sure to tell you – has but a few slices obviously counted out, to the person and served.

I was left with no choice but to nibble on the Pizza crust to make my Pasta a tad bit more interesting and enjoyable.

Coffee & Desserts

From a dessert menu that revolves entirely around Nutella to coffee flavours that include Tiramisu, their coffee and desserts are amongst the most loved in Dubai, and rightly so.

So, if you happen to be there but don’t have the time for lunch, do stop by to taste their coffee. They serve illy too.

& how about some Tiramisu to go??

Know of other places that serves great desserts? What is your favourite at Eataly?
Do let me know in the comments below.

Eataly

Level 1, Festival City Mall
Dubai

+971 4 2241 083

Open: 9 am – 11:30 pm (weekdays)
9am – 12:30am (weekends, starting Thursday)

Read Next: I Heart Honey Bears: Le Pain Quotidien

Also Available

From coffee and chocolates to artisanal pastas and ready sauces, you can even shop at Eataly for everything that goes into your full course Italian Meal.

Straight from the restaurant’s Market.

May 27, 2017
North meets South in Sitaram Bagh

Tucked away in a quiet corner of the old city of Hyderabad is the Sitaram Bagh Temple. Built by a banker Mr. Puranmal Ganeriwal in 1832, this centuries old Shri Sitaram Mandir is a sprawling complex of temples and beautiful airy courtyards spread over twenty five acres.

From the main entrance and its imposing facade to the labyrinth of quadrangle courtyards leading you on to endless discoveries, this peaceful temple is a visual treat. Built in a style that is exquisitely distinctive, it combines the North and South Indian styles of architecture with the European.

Back in the day, Seth Puranmal acquired land in what was then the village of Mallapally, in the outskirts of Hyderabad, laid out an expansive garden (bagh) and built a temple for Sitaramji. Thus bestowing on this temple, the moniker Sitaram Bagh.

This stretch of land was also the site for a Qutb Shahi Mosque, which stands till today, albeit separated from the temple by a concrete wall. Also on this expanse is an archaic step well that was connected via subterranean ducts to a well in the mosque. It is around this step well that the various structures of the temple complex, including a gaushala, ved pathshala and houses for the Bramhin families were constructed.

This entire compound is now a protected monument by the Archaeological Survey of India.

As you enter the main temple, intricately painted doors, imposing archways and massive colour blocked doors take you through a series of courtyards.

Each one opening out to a mandapa, a temple or to just an open-to-sky pavilion enclosed in European style terraces adorned with Rajasthani style jharokas.

If one courtyard boasts of a South Indian mandapa adorned with the Dasavataras carved in stone, the very next one will surprise you with a mandapa of European columns and fading frescos.

Even the two main temples alternate in their styles. While the Sitaramji Mandir is built in the North Indian style, with an entrance reminiscent of a palace in Rajasthan, the Varadarajaji Mandir is built in the typical Dravidian architecture style of South India.

The idols of the main deities are in marble, staying true to the prevailing theme of Rajasthani. Little surprise then that the Sitarambagh temple is popular with the local Marwaris in and around the old city.

The Hanuman Mandir though, sitting away from the maze of the courtyards and almost too close to the boundary wall of the complex is a little cut off from both the main temple and its old world charm.

It wasn’t until renovations began around 2015, that people even knew just how old or huge the stone idol of Hanumanji was. Only once the twelve inch sindhoor chola on the sculpture was taken off did they realise that the Hanuman idol was in fact burrowed knee deep in earth. The eight feet by five feet statue was then dug out and reinstated, complete with a new South Indian style Gopuram. What is distinctive about this addition though is that, facing the four directions are Abhay Hanuman, Veer Hanuman, Bhakt Hanuman and the Das Mudra. All of them typically North Indian on a South Indian style shikhar.

Every turn that you take in this grand layout, will only reinforce in you the awe that you experience at how beautifully North meets South in this temple.

Explorers Guide

Timings: 5.30 – 11.30 am & 5 – 8 pm

Remember: Dress conservatively. For though not really crowded like the other temples in the city, the management including even the security of the temple complex are quite orthodox in their ways. They double check to ascertain that you are indeed a Hindu before you are even allowed to wander into the outer courtyard of the temple!

Don’t Miss: The baoli (step-well). It is outside the main Sitaram Mandir and fenced off, making it in a way, quite easy to miss unless you go looking for it. Go straight along the path to the Hanuman temple, right across from the main entrance and you will find it to your left.

PS: The famous Purana Rangji Mandir in Pushkar was also built by the same Mr. Generiwal in the year 1844. Yet again, in the same unique combination of the South Indian Dravidian style and the North Indian Rajasthani Vaastukala.

May 24, 2017
Town of Hymns: Manthani

Named after a Khiledar under the reign of Sikandar Jha during 1803 to 1823, Syed Karimuddin, Karimnagar is one district in Telangana, which has ancient places seeped in historic importance to both Hindus and Buddhists alike. The most popular amongst these is Manthani.

Home to the ruins of a Gautameswara Temple, Manthani is a timeless village from an era gone by.

On the banks of the river Godavari, it had once flourished as the seat of Vedic learning. Also referred to as Mantrapuri or The Town of Hymns it gets its name from the Sanskrit word Mantra Kutam, meaning House of Mantras.

It is also popularly believed that Manthani is home to a thousand Bramhin families, which is why it is also called the Sahasra Brahamana Gadapa i.e. a Thousand Brahmin’s Threshold. Little surprise then that though the temple in Manthani is in ruins today, overrun with a patchwork of undergrowth that is a brilliant-hued green, the town continues to be culturally significant for Hindus.

Work is underway to put back the beautiful stone temple of Manthani to how it once stood. Meanwhile there is a new, fully functional temple on the premises.

Explorers Guide

Getting There: The distance from Hyderabad to Karimnagar is around 164 kilometres, but if you take the NH44 via Medchal you will reach the town in less than two hours. Manthani is a further 64 kilometres from here.
Route: Once on the road by the village, ask around and get to the ‘temple on the banks of Godavari’. It can get a little tricky, because this one is not on Google Maps.
Best Time to Visit: In the rains.

Read Next: Lost in Time: Nagunur Ruins

Read More on Temples in Telangana:

Of Rocks and Hidden Temples: Armoor
A Song of Stone: Dichpally Ramalayam
South India’s City of Moksh: Alampur

April 26, 2017
How I got my Indian Passport in 3 days

Tatkal. Thats Sanskrit for ‘instant’. Under the Indian Government’s Tatkal Scheme, one can get instant bookings on citizen services ranging from railway tickets to passport. A fast track process for those needing them at a short notice.

This has been around for a while and we have all waited online, for Tatkal bookings to open, so that we could reserve that train ticket, fast and easy. Inspite of knowing all that, I wasn’t prepared for what happened when I decided, on the spur of the moment, to renew my passport immediately.

Thursday Afternoon: I book an appointment online for renewing my Passport, under ‘Tatkal’.
Friday Afternoon: I am at the Government Passport Seva Kendra, Ameerpet for the appointment.
Saturday Morning: I am signing for my Passport, just arrived through Speed Post, yet another Government of India enterprise.

I hadn’t even finished my first cup of coffee, and there it was my shiny, new passport in mint condition! :D

Go #DigitalIndia

My passport was up for renewal this September, but I was putting it off, for the dread that anything to do with the Government of India’s bureaucracy inspires in all the citizens of the country. I needed some personal details updated, had no clue about the documentation required and add to that, the confusion caused by consultants. Middle men really – who are a dime a dozen – charging to “ease your interactions” with Government departments. So, there I was putting off for as long as possible, what seemed like a herculean task.

‘Women needn’t change their name in the passport after marriage’, said Prime Minister Modi only the other day. This statement was received with mixed emotions. Some cheered for it, calling it progressive. Others dismissed it, for married women in India had always had that choice.

True, one did always have that choice. Along with the option of adding one’s husband’s name to the passport – at their own discretion – without having to submit any supporting documentation. Not even the marriage certificate.

I wasn’t aware of any of this, till I was actually inside that Passport Seva Kendra, last week, just days before the announcement.

So, the general reaction only points out to the confusion and long entrenched prejudices in our minds about cumbersome procedures, endless paperwork, red tape and corruption that we have long come to associate with Government Departments.

We couldn’t be more wrong.

Those were the exact steps I followed and I had my new Passport in hand, on day three.

The documents required are limited and straight forward too. A copy of your passport- if its a renewal, a supporting document if you are applying for any changes in your personal details (which I did) & a copy of the application form submitted online.

I admit I was apprehensive myself, not knowing where to go once I entered the office. So, I just decided to follow the crowd and stick it out. Once I got to the first counter, it was only a matter of seconds before my documents were sorted & I was told what exactly was needed. Thanks to the tiny cafe that doubled up as a Xerox centre in the corner of the same room, my documents were in order and I was back at the counter. Before I knew it, my file had been processed. All I needed to do was keep an eye on the screen and move from one counter to the next, as the token number assigned to me flashed on it. In 20 minutes, I was past 3 counters and out with my old cancelled passport and an sms waiting for me on my phone, with all the details of my file and a link to track its status.

& here I am happy and super impressed with the Government of India and the Passport Seva Kendra.

There were of course the usual people complaining to stand in a queue, creating a ruckus, threatening to complain against the system and the employees. But, if you ask me, this particular Passport Seva Kendra that I went to, was manned by friendly, helpful and super efficient staff.

Did you know, that on an average over 3000 passports are issued in our country everyday under Tatkal?!

So I say, from experience, all that you need to get your passport fast and easy, is the attitude.

Useful Links

Official Passport Seva Website http://www.passportindia.gov.in/AppOnlineProject/welcomeLin

Begin your Online Application
https://portal2.passportindia.gov.in/AppOnlineProject/user/RegistrationBaseAction?request_locale=en

Download, Fill & Upload, eForm
http://www.passportindia.gov.in/AppOnlineProject/online/downloadEFormStatic

List of Documents Required
http://www.passportindia.gov.in/AppOnlineProject/docAdvisor/attachmentAdvisorInp

Happy travels!

PS: This is just my way of saying thanks to the Government of India & those who work for it and spreading some positivity.

April 16, 2017
Nagunur Ruins: Lost in Time

Less than three hours from Hyderabad, the district of Karimnagar in Telangana is peppered with numerous lesser-known forts and ancient ruins, making it the ideal day trip destination. Not yet over run with tourists, here you can happily explore at your own pace.

Home to a cluster of Kalyana and Kakatiya temple ruins, Nagunur is one such village in Karimnagar. Once the centre of the Kakatiya Empire, it is today but a tiny village lost in time. With these temples at its heart, it does not take but more than ten minutes to traverse through this entire village!

The most significant among these temples – from the 12^th century – is the Trikuta Temple built by the Chalukyas of Kalyani.

Though constructed in the same style as the Manthani temple, it is in much better shape today, with the three shrines dedicated to Lord Shiva showing evidence of continuing worship.

Explorers Guide

Getting There: Nagunur is 260 kilometers from Hyderabad and the drive via NH44 through Outer Ring Road will take around three and a half hours.
Best Time to Visit: Monsoons. With the rain clouds as a backdrop, these ancient temples look serenely beautiful.

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Read More on Temples in Telangana

Town of Hymns: Manthani
Of Rocks & Hidden Temples: Armoor
South India’s City of Moksh: Alampur
A Song of Stone: Dichpally Ramalayam

April 12, 2017
The Great Living Chola Temples – Vol I: Brihadeeswara Temple

In and around Thanjavur are The Great Living Chola Temples, three temple complexes dating back to the 11^th and 12^th centuries. Built by the Cholas, who were undoubtedly one of the most powerful monarchies of South India that ruled for over four and a half centuries, all of these ancient temples are ‘living temples’ – classified as such by UNESCO on their World Heritage List – in the sense that the pattern of worship and rituals established over a thousand years ago continue as is, to this day.

Thanjavur, mostly known for the Tanjore (Thanjavur) Paintings that are unique to this region, is home to the first of these Great Living Chola Temples. Locally known as the Big Temple, this is the Brihadeeswara Temple in Thanjavur. The grandest of the three.

As the region passed on from the Cholas to the Nayaks and then to the Marathas over the centuries, a few additions were made to the temple complex, from protective fort walls to murals and minor temples. One such are the beautiful frescos painted onto the ceiling of the Mandapam housing the massive 25 tonne monolithic Nandi, mount of Lord Shiva or Brihadeeswara, as he is in this temple.

& this particular mural is undoubtedly reminiscent of the famous Tanjore Paintings, all it needs is a little touch of gold!

Everything about this temple is big. The 20 feet Nandi, the 15 feet Dwarapalakas guarding the entrances, the 216 feet Vimana towering over the Sanctum Sanctorum that has to be two storeyed to house the huge Shiva Lingam (lingam form of the presiding deity).

The Vimana built over a base tier of two levels rises to dizzying heights, carrying on it an octagonal stone Shikhara which itself weighs 81 tonnes.

Ancient inscriptions refer to this Vimana as Dakshina Meru, implying it to be Mount Meru of the South or Maha Meru, Lord Shiva’s mountain abode.

It is said that a special ramp was constructed to carry the Shikhara up, to install on the Vimana, from a site six kilometres away and that more than a thousand elephants were required in the construction of this temple. Which is probably one of most the magnificent of Indian temples.

In fact, the city of Thanjavur itself was created with the deliberate intention of establishing it as a Bhakti centre. So, here is this impressively massive Big Temple at its heart and radiating out from it is the city, growing in concentric circuits starting from the inner quadrangle of the temple.

A colonnade of sandstone columns run all along the inner perimeter of the temple forming a circumambulatory path or Prakara. Though the Prakara itself dates back to the original construction, the 108 Shiva Lingas set against the stunning backdrop of beautiful murals painted on these stone walls are a 16th century addition.

The main temple itself occupies the rear half of the inner quadrangle, while two colossal Gopurams (gates) – Keralaanthagan & Rajarajan – into which are carved monolithic stone sculptures, lead the way.

Exemplifying the pure Dravidian style of architecture, these Chola Temples are not significant not just archaeologically but culturally as well. For it is believed that the Cholas built their temples not just as places for their people to get together and pray but to serve as epicentres of economic activity.

No trip to Thanjavur would be complete without witnessing these marvels of workmanship. The sheer size of these temples will cause you to wonder, muse on the scale at which affairs of state were once carried out!

The other two temples which together with the Big Temple form this unique group of living temples are the Brihadeeswara Temple at Gangaikonda Cholapuram and the Airavateswara Temple at Darasuram.

Explorers Guide

Getting There: Begin your day trip with the Brihadeeswara Temple in Thanjavur, drive on to the Airavateswara Temple, Darasuram, making a quick pitstop for lunch along the way on this 37 Kilometres stretch. Complete the circuit with the Brihadeeswara Temple, Gangaikonda Cholapuram. The 72 Kilometres drive from here, back to Thanjavur will take around 2 hours.

PS: Here is a super shaky video of a few of the brilliant murals in the Prakara.

Decided to add this here to the post, inspite of it being such a terrible attempt at shooting video because, I do want to share with you atleast a glimpse of the natural dye frescos that are such a fine example of ancient Indian artistry.

April 2, 2017