Less than three hours from Hyderabad, the district of Karimnagar in Telangana is peppered with numerous lesser-known forts and ancient ruins, making it the ideal day trip destination. Not yet over run with tourists, here you can happily explore at your own pace.
Home to a cluster of Kalyana and Kakatiya temple ruins, Nagunur is one such village in Karimnagar. Once the centre of the Kakatiya Empire, it is today but a tiny village lost in time. With these temples at its heart, it does not take but more than ten minutes to traverse through this entire village!
The most significant among these temples – from the 12th century – is the Trikuta Temple built by the Chalukyas of Kalyani.
Though constructed in the same style as the Manthani temple, it is in much better shape today, with the three shrines dedicated to Lord Shiva showing evidence of continuing worship.
Explorers Guide
Getting There: Nagunur is 260 kilometers from Hyderabad and the drive via NH44 through Outer Ring Road will take around three and a half hours. Best Time to Visit: Monsoons. With the rain clouds as a backdrop, these ancient temples look serenely beautiful.
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In and around Thanjavur are The Great Living Chola Temples, three temple complexes dating back to the 11th and 12th centuries. Built by the Cholas, who were undoubtedly one of the most powerful monarchies of South India that ruled for over four and a half centuries, all of these ancient temples are ‘living temples’ – classified as such by UNESCO on their World Heritage List – in the sense that the pattern of worship and rituals established over a thousand years ago continue as is, to this day.
Thanjavur, mostly known for the Tanjore (Thanjavur) Paintings that are unique to this region, is home to the first of these Great Living Chola Temples. Locally known as the Big Temple, this is the Brihadeeswara Temple in Thanjavur. The grandest of the three.
As the region passed on from the Cholas to the Nayaks and then to the Marathas over the centuries, a few additions were made to the temple complex, from protective fort walls to murals and minor temples. One such are the beautiful frescos painted onto the ceiling of the Mandapam housing the massive 25 tonne monolithic Nandi, mount of Lord Shiva or Brihadeeswara, as he is in this temple.
& this particular mural is undoubtedly reminiscent of the famous Tanjore Paintings, all it needs is a little touch of gold!
Everything about this temple is big. The 20 feet Nandi, the 15 feet Dwarapalakas guarding the entrances, the 216 feet Vimana towering over the Sanctum Sanctorum that has to be two storeyed to house the huge Shiva Lingam (lingam form of the presiding deity).
The Vimana built over a base tier of two levels rises to dizzying heights, carrying on it an octagonal stone Shikhara which itself weighs 81 tonnes.
Ancient inscriptions refer to this Vimana as Dakshina Meru, implying it to be Mount Meru of the South or Maha Meru, Lord Shiva’s mountain abode.
It is said that a special ramp was constructed to carry the Shikhara up, to install on the Vimana, from a site six kilometres away and that more than a thousand elephants were required in the construction of this temple. Which is probably one of most the magnificent of Indian temples.
In fact, the city of Thanjavur itself was created with the deliberate intention of establishing it as a Bhakti centre. So, here is this impressively massive Big Temple at its heart and radiating out from it is the city, growing in concentric circuits starting from the inner quadrangle of the temple.
A colonnade of sandstone columns run all along the inner perimeter of the temple forming a circumambulatory path or Prakara. Though the Prakara itself dates back to the original construction, the 108 Shiva Lingas set against the stunning backdrop of beautiful murals painted on these stone walls are a 16th century addition.
The main temple itself occupies the rear half of the inner quadrangle, while two colossal Gopurams (gates) – Keralaanthagan & Rajarajan – into which are carved monolithic stone sculptures, lead the way.
Exemplifying the pure Dravidian style of architecture, these Chola Temples are not significant not just archaeologically but culturally as well. For it is believed that the Cholas built their temples not just as places for their people to get together and pray but to serve as epicentres of economic activity.
No trip to Thanjavur would be complete without witnessing these marvels of workmanship. The sheer size of these temples will cause you to wonder, muse on the scale at which affairs of state were once carried out!
The other two temples which together with the Big Temple form this unique group of living temples are the Brihadeeswara Temple at Gangaikonda Cholapuram and the Airavateswara Temple at Darasuram.
Explorers Guide
Getting There: Begin your day trip with the Brihadeeswara Temple in Thanjavur, drive on to the Airavateswara Temple, Darasuram, making a quick pitstop for lunch along the way on this 37 Kilometres stretch. Complete the circuit with the Brihadeeswara Temple, Gangaikonda Cholapuram. The 72 Kilometres drive from here, back to Thanjavur will take around 2 hours.
PS: Here is a super shaky video of a few of the brilliant murals in the Prakara.
Decided to add this here to the post, inspite of it being such a terrible attempt at shooting video because, I do want to share with you atleast a glimpse of the natural dye frescos that are such a fine example of ancient Indian artistry.
Thwack. Down came the elephant’s trunk on my head, in a gesture of blessing. I was surprised at how gentle it was, gentle giants indeed.
We were in Trichy, Tamil Nadu to attend a wedding at our family friends’ home and the temple elephant was here to bless the newly weds, to flag off their journey together on an auspicious note. Even though I grew up in a traditional South Indian family this was completely unexpected. After all, it isn’t everyday that a majestic elephant walks into a wedding!
But, knowing where I was, it shouldn’t have come as a surprise.
Amongst the many interpretations of how this town got its name, one that particularly sticks in this case is that, Tiruchirapalli could have come from Tiruchinnapalli, which when broken down means Holy Little Town. Or even Tirussilapalli, meaning Holy Rock Town. Which brings us to the Rockfort Temple.
Tiruchirapalli or Trichy as one familiarly calls it, has always been an important religious centre for the Hindus with many a prolific and ancient temple peppered around town. From the more famous Ranganatha Swamy temple of Srirangam to the Rockfort Temple, which has come to be a symbol of this temple town.
I am yet to see a temple so striking and haughty in its simplicity, as this one. Sitting on a 272 feet rock, right in the centre of Trichy, it draws your gaze in, from wherever in the city you are, like a pivot.
So, here is where we went first, this intriguing fort-temple on the rock.
As we wound our way through the busy bazaar at the foot of the rock, I really did not know what to expect. There were the usual lines of people going about their prayers – visible from the busy street – in the Ganesh Temple which was right there. But did Ucchi Pillayar Kovil not mean Ganesh temple at the top, literally?
It was then that our guide explained to us that there are two rock cut temples in the fort, the lower and upper cave temples.
Having paid our respects at the Manikka Vinayakar Temple, the lower cave temple, we began the steep climb of over 350 steps through the ancient rock that dates back to over a billion years ago.
Of the many cave temples that we passed by, cut into this monolithic rock, the oldest was built by the Pallavas in 580 AD.
The biggest in this complex though is the Thayumana SwamyTemple dedicated to Lord Shiva and his consort Goddess Parvathi, spanning a length of two stories in a regular building.
Stunning though it was, right from its architecture to the colourful murals painted on the walls of the cave, it is the Ganesh temple sitting right at the summit that takes your breath away.
As you come out of the caves and struggle to climb up the sheer rock face to reach this temple, you are bound to pause for breath and that is when you realise just how picturesque the panoramas that it offers of the city look.
We did too.
As the breeze blew cool in my face I caught my first glimpse of Srirangam, from inside the Ucchi Pillayar Kovil.
Explorers Guide
Distance from Chennai: 335 kilometers Trip Duration: Weekend Getting There: Sitting right in the center of Tamil Nadu, Trichy can be reached by road from Chennai in 6 hours. There are also regular flights from Chennai to Trichy.
New Settlement. That is Pudicheri for you. Interpreted into Pondicherry by and for the French.
From the Romans who came here to trade in the 1st century AD to the Portuguese who returned in 1521 to trade in textiles, Pondicherry has had a colourful legacy. Not the Pallavas, Cholas, Pandyas, Sangamas or the Mughals; not even the Dutch or British could lay claim to this town. It has and will always be French.
Atleastas Tamil as it can get, but with a constant presence of its French past.
The historical richness of this town comes to life in its Art & Architecture. A lingering shadow of its European past in its every street.
So, come walk with me.
A leisurely stroll through the streets of Pondicherry, as you discover yet another piece of Urban Art, just around the corner.
To be continued in Streets of Pondicherry – Part II: Architecture
Pondicherry has South India’s most distinctive sub culture. They say if you can’t afford a ticket to Europe, travel to Pondicherry instead. Stroll through the white part of town and be transported in time and place to a laid back French town where cafes cool and inviting are at every turn.
Does the storm water canal that separates the French and Tamil quarters into neat little grids of White Town and Black Town also exist in your mind?
This is Cafè des Arts. It is the most popular Cafe in Pondicherry. Rated #1 on Trip Advisor with a Certificate of Excellence to boot.
Here, Indians are not welcome.
& this is what transpired in the cafe and on Trip Advisor.
“so when we ask you to wait, we are trying to please your comfort”
Completely missed the point did they? Or do the tone, the numbers and the smattering of French point to something now not just obvious but also reiterated and reinforced??
Forget about being “asked to wait”, if only we were even acknowledged.
*Sigh*
We are the same people, the very same Indianswho wait endlessly in queues outside the Kamats and Rajdhanis of the world for one simple meal.
We were refused a table at Villa Shanti too. It is the next ‘Most Popular Cafe in Pondicherry’. We were told they did not have a table, while we all stood in the foyer, right there in an empty cafe. On our second visit there, as we pushed past the half closed door, we were ushered in with a grimace from the very same head waiter. Well, every other cafe in Pondicherry was closed because of the Jalli Kattu protests going on that day. Though we definitely felt unwelcome and awkward, the food was good and the experience “okay”.
This is the same Pondicherry where Indian citizens were once offered a choice of French Citizenship as an era came to an end. It is the same Pondicherry where old war veterans, till today, turn up on the streets in the full glory of their erstwhile military uniform on Bastille Day every year.
It is also the same Pondicherry that I so love, for in its neat little blocks, self reliance comes easy to a girl who just wants to explore, camera in hand.
Everyone in Hyderabad has heard of the Medak Church and if you grew up in this city it is highly likely that you would have even gone there on a school trip. It is after all the largest diocese in all of Asia and is believed to be second only to the Vatican, even across the globe!
What started off as a project of true Christian compassion in 1914, to mitigate the suffering of people during the three-year famine that had hit Medak then, has brought to this district its most famous landmark. It was the missionary Rev. Charles Walker Posnett’s idea, to create employment rather than run a free kitchen and this massive church built in the Gothic Revival style that took 10 years to complete did achieve this objective.
Notwithstanding the fact that the church gained its most renown for its beautiful stained glass windows – which do leave one spellbound as the sunlight filters through them into the inner sanctum of the cathedral – its most striking feature remains the 175 feet bell tower.
There is more to this sleepy little town though. Telangana’s most celebrated festival, Bathukamma is performed on a large scale here. Recognised as the symbol of the state’s cultural identity, this nine-day festival is celebrated in honour of the Hindu Goddess Gauri. Yet another festival unique to this region is Peerla Panduga. It is but Muharram, only celebrated by both Hindus and Muslims alike across the Sufi Ashurkhanas here.
& with the Tourism Department‘s Heritage Hotel at the Medak Fort one can enjoy the art of slow travel right here, only an hour and half’s drive away.
The Medak Fort is a testimony to the history of this district. Strategically located on a hill, this fort is known to have exploited the natural topography of the area in creating an invincible defence around itself, standing witness to Medak’s significance during the reign of the Kakatiyas.
This summit today offers one gorgeous views of the surrounding city.
The view from the fort is not be missed. For it surely is an intriguing sight to see a city grow and flourish around Trinity Diagonal – a Mosque, a Temple and the Church all perfectly aligned in a diagonal cutting across Medak.
Built around the 12th century, the Medak Fort was once a command outpost for the Kakatiya, Bahamani and Qutb Shahi dynasties and is believed to have set the scene for many a battle for over five centuries.
Not much remains of the fort now, except for its three entrances – Prathama Dwaram (first entrance), Simha Dwaram (lion entrance) and Gaja Dwaram (elephant entrance). These are striking in their architecture and as their names suggest, are adorned with snarling lion heads and majestic elephants. Also standing untouched by time on the main entrance is the Ganda Bherundam,a double-headed eagle with an elephant in its talons. This mythical bird, an ancient symbol of royalty and the great Vijayanagar Empire’s insignia has since been incorporated into the present day Karnataka State’s emblem. One is then left to wonder if it isn’t but a remnant of the symbolic consolidation of the reigning dynasties of the era.
So, while planning your next road trip from Hyderabad don’t just strike Medak off your list, for there is a lot more to this district-town than just its record holding Church.
Explorers Guide
Distance from Hyderabad: 95 Kilometers Trip Duration: Half Day – Weekend Extend your Road Trip: Drive on to Pocharam Route: Take the NH44 via Kompally to get to Medak. Stop By: The road to Medak goes through the Narsapur Forest Range and you will find a horde of monkeys lined up all along the road. So don’t forget to carry some bananas to feed these guys. They are so accustomed to this that the minute you slow your car they will stand up and look into your window to see what snacks you have got them!
One of the oldest and the most renowned temple in Nizamabad is the Ramalayam in Dichpally. This 14th century temple dedicated to the Ram Avtaar of Lord Vishnu is also called the Indhoor Khajuraho and Khilla Ramalayam.
Sitting on a hillock the Dichpally Ramalayam offers one, sweeping views of the quaint little town of Dichpally and is undoubtedly a worthy vantage point to enjoy the early morning breeze.
This also makes it a picturesque location for taking panoramic shots, with an almost submerged ancient mandapam just about visible in a clear lake on one side and little brick houses with red roofs lined along its bank on the other.
While steps up the hillock lead you through an entrance typical of a fort complete with a fortification wall all around the temple grounds, which is probably why the locals now call this temple Khilla Ramalayam.
Considered to be a fine example of the Kakatiya’s architectural splendour, this stone structure of black and white basalt has sculptures on its pillars that are reminiscent of the ones on the famous Khajuraho temples, bestowing on it the moniker of Indhoor Khajuraho, indicative of a time when Nizamabad was Indhoor, named so after a Rashtrakuta King.
These carvings based on Vatsayana’s Kamasutra were so remarkable that even the name of this town traces its origins to it. These stone sculptures were called ‘Gicchu Bommalu’ by the villagers of that time, meaning pictures of Gicchu, the Sanskrit word for romance and beauty. Over time the village of gicchu, Gicchu Palle came to be Dichpally.
In the 13th century when Ala Ud Din Khilji conquered Nizamabad, there began a trend where Hindu temples were not allowed to be built, so did the construction of this temple stop midway and it was only many years later that the idols of Ram, Sita and Hanuman were installed here. The temple as you see it today was only complete in 1949 when steps leading up the hillock and a subway connecting it to another popular temple in Nizamabad were built under the stewardship of Gajavada Chinnaya.
Legend has it that in the Tretayuga, when right after meeting Hanuman for the first time, Lord Ram was on his way to wage war on Ravan, he stopped here on this hill and stayed a fortnight and it is to mark this that a Ramalayam was built here.
Explorers Guide
Distance from Hyderabad: 160 Kilometers Trip Duration: Half Day Route: Take the NH44 from Hyderabad to Nizamabad. Around 15 kilometers before you reach the town of Nizamabad get off the NH7 to reach Dichpally. Getting There: The Ramalayam is the biggest and most popular place in town and the wider roads in town leading here are an evidence to that. Follow the sign posts and soon you will spot the ‘temple on the hillock’.
The Ladakh Festival is an annual week-long gala organised by the Tourism Department of the Jammu & Kashmir Government every September in Leh and its surrounding villages. Local communities along with the district administrations of Leh come together to showcase the culture and traditions of this land of stunning landscape to the visiting tourists, for after all the region survives and thrives on tourism.
This year starting off with an opening ceremony in Leh today, itis on till the 26th of this month. I was there for the Ladakh Festival 2015 and Ladakh is not the cards for me this year – atleast for now – so here I am reliving those memories through last year’s photos
According to the rich heritage of this former Himalayan Kingdom, every important occasion in a person’s lifetime is marked by feasting and dancing to folk songs, be it a birth, marriage, the beginning of a new year or even the start of a season when the flowers begin to bloom. The most popular ones though are the Monastic Festivals celebrated to commemorate the founding of a monastery. What with Ladakh having found a place in every Photographer’s heart and Travel Enthusiast’s bucket list, these festivals only seem to grow in scale every year. As summer comes to an end, both the festivals and the tourists begin to go back to easier terrains and the Ladakh Festival comes at just such a time, tempting you to stay back just a while longer.
On the first day of the festival, all the locals participating and performing at the cultural events in the opening ceremony start off in a procession, dressed in traditional attire. Some of who even bring out the rare antique jewellery, headgear, jackets and such that have been in their family for generations and which cannot now be duplicated by the modern day artisans. As these groups of local leaders, tribal men and women, artisits and school children weave their way through the Leh market to the Polo Grounds where the inaugural ceremony of the festival is held, you can only be spell bound by the colour you see and the beauty of happy locals against the stark backdrop of their desert landscape.
At the Polo grounds, it is time to settle down and take in the show that is being put on not just by the natives of the region but also by those Tibetan refugees who have made India their home.
Experience their way of life and age old traditions through the masked rituals, folk songs & music and even through the reenactment of royal court dances.
As most of their festivals celebrate life, besides seeking peace and warding off evil, the performance to their folk song of Marriage is the most intriguing. Marriage ceremonies in Ladakh begin with the boy’s family sending Chaang or the local beer to the girl’s family, from when start the many events that culminate in the wedding feast. One such ceremony is the Nyopjhol, where Nyopas i.e the bridegroom’s friends go to the brides house to fetch her. This ceremony depicted in dance form at the festival is a sight to see, as spectacularly dressed ladakhis in the ceremonial costume of the Nyopas – who play a very important role all the through the wedding – dance to the Marriage Song in accompaniment to the music played on the traditional instruments, Daman and Surna.
The cultural programmes in Leh end by afternoon, after which the festival then moves on to other parts of Ladakh. All in all, the Ladakh Festival is a wonderful way to experience the culture and heritage of this region, so if you are planning a trip to Ladakh do take into account this festival!
I had just upgraded my gear during the week – to a Full Frame Camera and a Wide Angle Lens from my first DX format Nikon Kit and my itchy feet just couldn’t wait for the weekend to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city and test it.
I love road trips. Not only do they add a sense of adventure to one’s photo making journeys but they also make for that perfect blend of individual and social moments, a time to reflect as well as bond. Be it the feel of the road slipping from underneath the tyres as you listen to music or the feel of the wind in your face as you simply contemplate life to when you are stopping along the highway for some not so healthy but interesting food.
& when I joined hands with CEAT my Sunday only got that much sweeter and a Road Trip to Karimnagar seemed to be answer! A two and half hour drive from Hyderabad, this district in Telangana is peppered with numerous forts and ancient ruins, making it the ideal day trip destination for some exploration and a bit of photography both.
So, here I am, chronicling my road trip adventure for CEAT Tyres in association with BlogAdda.
Stop 1: Molangur Fort
Built atop a massive granite hillock during the reign of Prathapa Rudra of the Kakatiya Dynasty, this once important fort is today nothing but a ruin listed on the archaeological department’s protected sites. The large scale granite quarrying happening in and around this fort is only adding to the structural damage of this site and ruins of the palaces and the megalithic burials are barely discernible.
Stop 2:Elgandal Fort
On the banks of the river Godavari, sitting atop a hill in the 800 year old village of Elgandal is this ancient fort on the verge. Built by Zafar Ud Dowla in 1754 AD, the Teen Minar of the Alamgir Mosque are the most striking feature of this stronghold that has passed through five dynasties over time.
Stop 3: Manthani Ruins
Another timeless village to have flourished on the banks of Godavari in Karimanagar is Manthani. Home to the ruins of the Gautameswara Temple, it also referred to as Mantrapuri i.e The Town of Hymns. Work is underway to put back this beautiful stone temple to how it once stood and meanwhile there is a new, fully functional temple on the premises.
Right at the centre of the village of Nagunur is a cluster of Kalyana and Kakatiya temple ruins. The most significant of which is the Trikuta Temple built by the Chalukyas of Kalyani. Though built in the same style as the Manthani temple, this is in much better shape with the three shrines dedicated to Lord Shiva showing evidence of continuing worship.
Other stops on this trip were the town of Karimnagar and Dhulikatta. But, by the time we reached the Buddhist site, there was a deluge and the 2 km walk along the dirt path through the fields was ruled out. Though it might seem that monsoons played spoilt sport, I have no regrets for if not now there is always the next road trip. :)
& with the setting sun behind us, having covered over 550 Kms on this CEAT adventure, we were already homeward bound just in time for some coffee.
Of the 61 listed Monuments of Bidar, 30 are tombs. Little wonder then that Bidar is known as The City of Whispering Tombs!
135 Kms from Hyderabad, just across the state border in Karnataka is Bidar. If you love visiting places of historic significance and can’t get enough of architecture, this is one road trip that you must make from the city.
The most prominent landmark of this city – which dates back to the third century BC – is the Bidar Fort. It was built by the first sultan of the Bahamani Dynasty, Ala Ud Din Bahaman Shah when he set up his capital and 4Kms from here is the final resting place of the Bahamani Sultans. No visit to Bidar is complete without a trip to these majestic structures located in Ashtur, The Bahamani Tombs. Some of them are in a state of disrepair today, but even these crumbling mausoleums stand a beautiful testament to the art of an era gone by.
En route to Ashtur just before you get to the Tombs, on to the left is yet another idyllic setting to rest for eternity, the expansive and peaceful resting place of Hazrat Khalil Ullah, a popular religious preceptor of the time. Known as the Chaukhandi, this octagonal structure is beautiful in its simplicity and clean lines.
Second in the series, ‘Artisan Villages of Telangana’, comes the village of Nirmal in Adilabad district. A two hour drive from Hyderabad brings you to this town where all the village artists have got together to create a co-operative society, recognise themselves and setup a store to sustain this dying art form.
Practised by the Naqash artists of the 14th century, The Nirmal Art Form is an ancient tradition that has today, translated into making of toys and paintings from the locally available variety of softwood, known as ‘Poniki Chekka’. Though slowly fading out with each passing generation of the artisans losing interest; it originally flourished in the area, as the then rulers were great patrons of this art.
Made from tender wood, put together with a mixture of saw dust in tamarind seed paste (chinta lappam) and finished with a coat of brilliant paint, typical also of the Nirmal Paintings, these handmade toys are very light.
Artists of both these Telangana villages, Nirmal and Cheriyal use the same indigenous raw material to create such varied art. While the Cheriyal Artists use the chinta lappam to sculpt their masks, these artists use it to glue on the limbs and wings to their animal and bird figures and as a base to smoothen and bring shape to the toy.
All the artists are registered with the village cooperative society and work within its framework. Every artist is given a single toy to make, which he makes in number and takes around 20 days to a month to complete and so does not have to adhere to a stringent daily work routine but can pace it out as long as he delivers on schedule.
You can tell a Nirmal Painting from its characteristic streaks of gold, always against a black background. & also, from the human form that is graceful in its expression and is eloquent in its influence of the Mughal Miniaturist Art and the Ajanta and Kangra styles of painting.
A Nirmal Painting of the Basara Gnana Saraswati Devi, the Hindu Goddess of Learning at Basara, an important pilgrimage destination in the district.
Explorers Guide
Getting There: Take the NH44 straight from Kompally. A smooth drive of 210 Kms should get you to Nirmal. Remember: There are quite a few tollgates along the way, so make sure to account for a little extra while budgeting for this road trip.
Places of Interest: Add one or more of these to your itinerary to complete your day trip.
Shamgarh Fort – Right at the entrance to the town, make a quick stop here for a view of the whole town from the ruins.
Pochampadu Dam – Only 3 Kms off the highway, you don’t really need to make extra time for this one. Also known as the Sri Ramasagar Dam, probably owing to the popular Ram Mandir located here, not only is this one of the biggest dams in the area irrigating 5 districts of both Telangana and Andhra but it was also one of spots for the Godavari Pushkaralu last year.
Kuntala & Pochera Falls -Roughly around 50 Kms further ahead of Nirmal, both of these are in the same direction. Kuntala Falls are touted to be the highest waterfalls in Telangana.
Basara Sarawasti Devi Temple – If religious detours are more your style, this is a must visit. Every day, thousands of Children begin their intellectual journey here with the South Indian Hindu ceremony, Aksharaabhasyam. This rite marks the start of a child’s formal education.
I had earlier on my blog, done a story on the Weavers of Andhra Pradesh from the Karipakam – Patur region. Just like that, are other artisan villages in India which are so exclusive and distinctive in their technique that they lend their name to the Handicraft, irrespective of the form they take.
Which is why I have decided to start a series titled ‘Artisan Villages’.
I shall try and visit as many of these places as I can, in the process, learning and documenting traditional art forms prevalent in India from as far back as one can remember.
I begin this series, with one closest home, Cheriyal.
An hour away from Hyderabad is the village of Cheriyal in Telangana. Here is where the famous ‘Cheriyal Scrolls’ come from. These canvas scrolls made from Khadi are hand painted in a style unique to the local motifs and iconography. Characterised by a dominance of the colour red in the background, these brilliantly-hued paintings even received Geographical Indication Status in 2007.
Painted in panels as a narrative, these are like comic strips from the past, depicting scenes and stories from Indian mythology and epics. Distinct in their style they immediately convey the age old Indian traditions and customs in a beautiful and engaging manner. Of which, both, Lords Krishna and Rama are prominent and the most recurring. Originally used by the village bard as a visual aid to go with his stories and ballads, these scrolls have all but phased out with today’s more mainstream ways of storytelling and entertainment.
The traditional Cheriyal Scrolls were sociologically and culturally significant in their time, for their use as a tool for educating the illiterate villagers. From a scroll that once had up to 50 panels, they have now come down to a single panel, as these artists adapt to its modern use as wall art.
Also coming from Cheriyal, are masks and dolls modelled along the same theme of ancient Indian mythology and local folk lore. These masks range from as small as the ones sculpted and painted on coconut shells to as large as the ones moulded in cement.
Now, there are very few artists practising this traditional art form, with Cheriyal being the last village standing that continues to produce these scrolls and masks. Of the three remaining artist families in the village are the husband and wife duo, Vanaja & Ganesh.
They are both government recognised artists, who have had the honour of transferring these Cheriyal Masks as 10 feet wall murals in Nagpur for the President, Mr.Pranab Mukherjee’s visit some time ago. While, Mr.Ganesh has conducted workshops under the South Central Zonal Cultural Centre’s Guru Shishya Parampara Scheme. Their two daughters also chip in during their time off from school, for these village arts are usually a family occupation.
All in all these scrolls when framed, make for gorgeous gifts. So if you are looking at exclusive party favours or corporate gifts with that characteristic touch of Indian-ness, you know where to go!
Not only would you encourage a dying art form but you would also be making a statement. :)
Explorers Guide
Getting There: Ideal for a quick day trip, Cheriyal is 54 Km from Hyderabad and can be reached by road in less than an hour and a half. Take the NH44 to get there. On the Way: Make a pit stop at any of the Dhabas in Kompally to refuel.
Get in Touch: With the artist, Mr. N Ganesh on +91 9000181059.
Spread over a 1300 acre sprawling campus and peopled with elegant old buildings is the Osmania University in Hyderabad. The seventh oldest university in the country was brought into existence by the seventh Nizam of Hyderabad in 1918.
This beautifully green campus is so vast that its roads have long come to become regular thoroughfares in the city. So much so that, one does not even know just how many buildings are scattered around here and does not even spare more than a glance. That too when the names on the buildings get you thinking as to all the obscure possible disciplines of formal education and research available!
So it wasn’t till I actually stood under the Arts College Building one Sunday morning after I had decided to photograph it, did I realise just how smartly and tastefully this graceful old building has been designed.
Born from a farman (Royal Charter) by Nawab Osman Ali Khan, this university’s buildings were planned by Mr. Jasper, a Belgian architect, who was “found” by an expert panel of architects and engineers who had toured through Europe, America, Japan, Egypt and Turkey in the quest.
It is of little surprise then that the centre piece of this spread, the Arts College is but Poetry in Pink.
This Heritage Building of Pink Granite, which took 5 years to construct, was officially inaugurated in 1939.
This is my first post yet from the city where my parents grew up. :)
To me, Visakhapatnam has always only been a ‘colonial town’. So, when we were there for a day visiting my grandmother I did not want to let an opportunity go by, however small, of exploring, discovering and documenting at least a little of this beautiful, laid back city.
& as we strolled along the winding walkways of Waltair Club, I could almost picture an older, more settled me spending many a pleasant, relaxed evening here. (day dreaming!)
The fact that the club was the first to introduce electricity to Vizag, house it’s first dispensary and boast of the only telephone in town stands testimony to it’s ‘colonialism’.
Whatever it’s history may be, it still is a cool oasis of serenity in the hot and humid Vizag.
The colonial style bungalows, those grey stone walls, the clean meandering roads and the lush greenery of even the old old trees only add to the still and calm of this club established by the British way back in 1883.
Sunday before last, I was in the Indian School of Business for their Digital Summit 2016. The “workshop” was barely more than a platform for the internet and social media giants to come and ‘perform’ their sales pitch!
So, in a bid to Save The Sunday, I walked around the campus looking to photograph anything that caught my eye. Luckily I loved photographing the wonderful symmetries, à la Jantar Mantar.
Bill wasn’t unkind or rude by nature, but now he struck. ‘I appreciate your kind invitation’, he said, ‘but I never go to the Yatch Club. I’ve never been inside it.’
Mr.Smithers looked alarmed. ‘Why not, Mr.Wainwright? Surely it’s a fine club.’
‘It isn’t that. Only you see I have a good many Indian friends – some of them very distinguished – and as you know, they are not allowed to enter the club. So I don’t go either… it seems to me rather odd considering that India is their country.
South Indian Silk Sarees have always been known for their elegance. Be it from Telangana, Andhra, Karnataka or Tamil Nadu, every saree is unique in its design and technique to the region. & these sarees are usually eponymous of the region they come from.
One such are the Patur Sarees, which are quite in fashion today. Cotton, Silk and Zari (gold thread) threads are hand-woven together to craft these beautiful cotton silk sarees from the Village of Patur in Nellore District and the adjoining Village of Karipakam in Chittoor District.
There were around 150 weavers in Karipakam once. Today there are only 50, the lack of patronage pushing them to find work in nearby factories. Even the working conditions are not much to speak of. Though the dying of threads and getting them ready is more of an outdoor activity, the actual weaving is done in a pit loom.
What little work now comes into the village comes from the head weaver, who gets designs from speciality retail stores like Nalli Silks and distributes it amongst the weavers.
Since, the mainstay of the village is this craft, all the villagers/weavers get together every morning to dye silk and cotton threads sourced from different places. It is a sight to see. So, if you wish to see the weavers at work, do visit the village on a sunny morning. Sunny mornings, for even the weather needs to be conducive. Too much moisture in the air dampens the thread which makes it difficult for the colour to stick.
Once, the patterns and the spindles of thread are ready, they are loaded onto the loom and the weaving begins. Keeping with the trend and also the rules set by the buying companies, a design is not usually repeated.
Zari motifs are hand-woven into the saree, which takes 2-3 days to finish depending on the number of colours in the pattern. If the same saree were to be made on a power loom, these would have to be sewn on to the saree separately.
and, this is what sets these gorgeous lightweight sarees apart.
Starting at Rs.2,500/-, the sarees can be bought directly from the weavers houses.
Explorers Guide
Getting There By Road – The most convenient way to get there is to drive down from Tirupati. This takes a little over an hour. By Air – Nearest airports are Tirupati and Chennai. By Rail – Nearest railway station is at Sullurpet.
Stay Big Stay serviced apartments at Tada. With over 200 rooms, Indian, Oriental & Continental cuisines catering to people of all nationalities visiting/working at the Sri City SEZ and a travel desk that arranges your airport drop and pick up, they ensure a comfortable stay.
Things To Do Trekking at Naagala Hills.
Kayaking at the creek in Sri City.
Nearby Places of Interest Pulicat Lake – India’s second largest salt-water lagoon, it is the winter home to numerous migratory birds from Central Asia, of which Flamingos and Pelicans number the most. The state tourism department hosts a Flamingo Festival here in January every year. Nelapattu Bird Sanctuary – Also known as Pelican Paradise, it is counted amongst the popular bird sanctuaries of India. Ubbalamadugu – Jungle Pools and waterfall.
Named after Moazzam Jah Bahadur, son of the seventh and last Nizam of Hyderabad, The Moazzam Jahi Market is built entirely in stone.
Modelled after the ‘Universal Stores’ of the West, construction of this popular landmark began in 1933 by the City Improvement Board, whose President was Prince Moazzam Jah. Besides being a centrally located traders centre, it was supposed to have housed the fruit market that sent fruit to the Nizam living in the Falaknuma Palace then.
On the completion of the market in 1935, a clock was installed on the Minar facing the main street crossing. Today, this Clock Tower is iconic in the Old City of Hyderabad.
The architecture of this triangular granite structure is striking in its antiquity. Which is what probably prompted Nikon to conduct a photowalk here, the first Sunday of February. It is also on the HMDA’s Heritage Buildings List.
With remarkable archways, spiral staircases, colourful doors, flocks of pigeons and a flurry of activity from the 100+ shopkeepers setting up shop and scattering grain for the birds to feed on, the courtyard is the most integral part of this building.
81 years and this market has stood still. Not much has changed but the generations of shopkeepers and the kids that stop to binge on the “famous” handmade fruit icecream.
Hyderabad’s International Kite Festival found its way to a larger venue this year – away from the hustle and bustle of Necklace Road – the Aga Khan Academy near the airport.
Makara Sankranti is an important Indian Harvest Festival celebrated across the country. This day marks the return of the sun after the cold winter and is a harbinger of the coming harvest season for farmers.
Also known as Pongal in some states of the South, it gets its name from the dish that is made this day. Rice from the first harvest of the year is cooked in milk that has come to a ‘pongu’, meaning boil and sweetened with jaggery or sugar.
In Gujarat, where the biggest Kite Festival of the country takes place, it is Uttarayan. How ever many be the names that this festival is called by, the one common thread that weaves through it is the ‘flying of kites’.
India is of many religions and this is one of the celebrations that brings together, them all. For, it is believed that the custom of flying kites was brought to India by the Persian muslims!
Yes it does not make up for the nostalgia of that simple childhood joy. Of stringing up your kite with manja (thread coated with the tiniest shards of glass), running around with your spool on the terrace as you try to ‘cut’ as many kites as you can and then counting your loot at the end of it all.
But, this 2 day Kite Festival does bring to you an array of different kinds of kites from across the globe.
It is usually right after the sun rises and before the sun sets that one flies kites while it is still pleasant and the sun isn’t too sharp, but it is still breezy enough for the kites to take to the sky.
& with the setting sun, out goes the light and the International Kite Festival 2016 of Hyderabad draws to a close.
