Map In My Pocket

Category: India

Standing Still: Moazzam Jahi Market

Named after Moazzam Jah Bahadur, son of the seventh and last Nizam of Hyderabad, The Moazzam Jahi Market is built entirely in stone.

Modelled after the ‘Universal Stores’ of the West, construction of this popular landmark began in 1933 by the City Improvement Board, whose President was Prince Moazzam Jah. Besides being a centrally located traders centre, it was supposed to have housed the fruit market that sent fruit to the Nizam living in the Falaknuma Palace then.

On the completion of the market in 1935, a clock was installed on the Minar facing the main street crossing. Today, this Clock Tower is iconic in the Old City of Hyderabad.

The architecture of this triangular granite structure is striking in its antiquity. Which is what probably prompted Nikon to conduct a photowalk here, the first Sunday of February. It is also on the HMDA’s Heritage Buildings List.

With remarkable archways, spiral staircases, colourful doors, flocks of pigeons and a flurry of activity from the 100+ shopkeepers setting up shop and scattering grain for the birds to feed on, the courtyard is the most integral part of this building.

81 years and this market has stood still. Not much has changed but the generations of shopkeepers and the kids that stop to binge on the “famous” handmade fruit icecream.

March 5, 2016
Heart of Hyderabad: Old City

Now that I am working on the 52 Photowalks Project, I am constantly on the lookout for heritage walks and photo walks happening in the city. Seek Sherpa’s Galliyon Ke Raja was my first such.

It was great fun. Like walking around the Streets of Old City looking for subjects was not enough of an out-of-my-comfort-zone moment, there was this whole ‘Street Photography’ tag attached to it too! But, luckily for me, it was a great first. I even got to learn quite a bit on controlling the camera and understanding lenses better from the very helpful and nice ‘sherpa’ conducting the micro-tour (as they call it).

Now, no more words. I believe and hope that this time around, just the pictures are enough to tell a tale.

February 27, 2016
Golconda Fort: Through The Ages

The Golconda Fort is a testament to the history of Hyderabad and this region.

Originally a fort of the Kakatiyas, it went through the Bahamanis to the Qutub Shahi Kings, who made it their capital. From the earlier peacock and griffin carvings to the later fort walls with its numerous bastions and battlements bear evidence to this fact.

Anyone who has lived in Hyderabad long enough will tell you how important this confluence of Hindu and Muslim cultures has been in shaping not just the city but even its distinctive language! Hyderabadi as it is called (a mixture of Urdu & Hindi) even extends its influence to the local Telangana dialect of Telugu giving it it’s distinctive twist.

Built on a hillock 400 feet high, The Golconda Fort derives its name from the Telugu word ‘Golla Konda’ meaning Shepherd’s Hill. Legend has it that a shepherd found an idol here and the reigning Kakatiya King built a mud fort around it.

Surrounded by a deep moat, an outer wall and an inner double wall, this Fort was neigh impregnable. Made even more daunting by the cannons mounted on its 87 bastions, Golconda was the strongest amongst the forts of Deccan. It was Aurangazeb who finally managed to infringe the fort in 1687 and it is said that even this was made possible only because of a traitor on the inside.

Meandering up the hill, within these fortifications, is yet another stone wall made from the boulders already there. So, this once-unconquerable-now-in-ruins fort is still striking in its architecture.

But the truly remarkable samples of the ingenious design and planning that went into the construction of this fort remain the Persian wheel water Supply and the acoustic signalling mechanism.

Relying purely on gravity, water was collected from, stored and supplied at different levels of this massive citadel!

Every building and wall is positioned in a way that allows sound from the entryway to be carried up to the hilltop. Believed to be a communication mechanism for the guards, one can still experience this by clapping at the threshold and hearing the echo travel.

The third feat of engineering in Golconda that has stood the test of time are the archways built in a way to allow cool breeze to circulate through the various palaces and halls, a definite breather from the summer heat of Hyderabad.

Other interesting must-sees in this fort complex are the still intact Aslah Khana (3 storeyed armoury), Ramadas Bandikhana (where the legendary devotee of Lord Rama, Bhakta Ramadasu was jailed by the last ruler of Qutub Shahi Dynasty, Tana Shah for surreptitiously ‘borrowing’ money from the royal treasury to restore the Bhadrachalam Temple), Baradari (pavilion on the hilltop), Ibrahim Masjid, Mortuary Baths (in today’s context just beautiful archways built in Persian+Turkish style), Taramati Mosque, Nagina Bagh (once a thriving diamond trade centre as attested by none other than Marco Polo, today, a garden).

It is believed that even the Kohinoor was mined here!

Things To Do: Get a guide who will take you up the hillock and regale you along the way with intrigues of the court from an era gone by.

or

Watch the Light & Sound Show conducted by the State Department of Tourism, where every evening, the history and romance of this beautiful place is recreated through music and story telling.

or go early in the evening and do both. :)

Read Next: Standing Still: Moazzam Jahi Market

February 26, 2016
Of Sunny Days & Brisk Breezes

Hyderabad’s International Kite Festival found its way to a larger venue this year – away from the hustle and bustle of Necklace Road – the Aga Khan Academy near the airport.

Makara Sankranti is an important Indian Harvest Festival celebrated across the country. This day marks the return of the sun after the cold winter and is a harbinger of the coming harvest season for farmers.

Also known as Pongal in some states of the South, it gets its name from the dish that is made this day. Rice from the first harvest of the year is cooked in milk that has come to a ‘pongu’, meaning boil and sweetened with jaggery or sugar.

In Gujarat, where the biggest Kite Festival of the country takes place, it is Uttarayan. How ever many be the names that this festival is called by, the one common thread that weaves through it is the ‘flying of kites’.

India is of many religions and this is one of the celebrations that brings together, them all. For, it is believed that the custom of flying kites was brought to India by the Persian muslims!

Yes it does not make up for the nostalgia of that simple childhood joy. Of stringing up your kite with manja (thread coated with the tiniest shards of glass), running around with your spool on the terrace as you try to ‘cut’ as many kites as you can and then counting your loot at the end of it all.

But, this 2 day Kite Festival does bring to you an array of different kinds of kites from across the globe.

It is usually right after the sun rises and before the sun sets that one flies kites while it is still pleasant and the sun isn’t too sharp, but it is still breezy enough for the kites to take to the sky.

& with the setting sun, out goes the light and the International Kite Festival 2016 of Hyderabad draws to a close.

February 5, 2016
Go Flamingo, Go!

The Flamingo Festival in Andhra Pradesh is an annual affair by the State Government to increase awareness about the conservation of Flamingos, which make the Pulicat Lake their winter home. As far as I know, this 3 day festival has been happening since 2012, in January every year at the Pulicat & Nelapattu Bird Sanctuaries of Andhra Pradesh.

Only this year, there was not a Flamingo in sight.

The Pulicat Lake, which is the second largest salt-water lagoon in India, is the winter home to numerous Birds from Central Asia (of which Flamingos and Pelicans number the most). These birds come from as far as Siberia to as near as Ladakh, to mate and nest. Looking to escape the chill, they fly across continents, traversing thousands of miles of ocean.

Read: The Flamingo Story

and, what do they find when they finally reach here, their winter home?

Desolation.

Pulicat Lake, January 2015.

To get here you take the road to Sri Hari Kota, an Island off the coast of Bay of Bengal that houses the Satellite Launching Station of ISRO. This is a stretch of around 15km of road with the Pulicat Lake on either side, for as far as you can see.

When I had gone here last year, I had never seen anything like it before. The horizon was pink with flamingos and this ‘Road Through The Lake’ was like no other.

Sorry, no clear shots of the flamingos. :( This was all that I could get on my phone camera.

Pulicat Lake, NOW. January 2016.

Today the Pulicat Lake is totally choked up with sand, thanks to the roads being laid across it cutting off its water inflow from the ocean and making it unsustainable for marine life. 30,000 fishermen once depended on this lake for their livelihood.

Words fail me, as I try to describe the deliberate devastation brought to this place.

The experience of driving on that road-through the lake-to the Island, went from one end of the spectrum to the other, just like that!

No water, no marine life, no flamingos. NADA.

I have been writing this post in my head for 15 days now, but every time I add a photo or a word to the actual draft I can only feel that I am not able to do justice to the situation with my words or photographs. So here is a 15sec video from last year, which I hope paints a more accurate picture of the now no longer existent tranquil life of the Birds of Pulicat Lake.

One can only hope that measures are taken to reverse the damage and the Flamingos come back some day!

Read Next: Into The Jungle

January 27, 2016
Driving through Lahaul & Spiti

I travelled through the Lahaul and Spiti Valley of Himachal for 10 days and most of that time was spent driving on rocky roads and glacial streams. All that time, I stared awe-struck at the magnificence of the Himalayas, as we went from one place to the next, winding amidst them.

So, here is an attempt to take you down that road – a photographic journey of Driving through Lahaul & Spiti.

January 14, 2016
The Lost Pump House

I was born in Hyderabad, and I have lived here most of my life. But, it wasn’t until a year ago, when a friend mentioned Fox Sagar Lake, did I even become aware of its existence. He hadn’t heard of it either, till his work for a magazine helped us discover this Lake.

& This lake is beautiful. Period.

Hyderabad is known for its Hussain Sagar and The Buddha Statue there. The Hussain Sagar has an iconic status that it shares with Charminar and now, Hitec City. But, in reality, it is an extremely polluted lake that stinks up the air! Inspite of this, being the only water body in an otherwise hot and crowded city, it draws in crowds by the hundreds and even thousands on holidays. I, like everyone else, have been drawn to it too.

On the other hand, is The Fox Sagar Lake. In the city, but wide, expansive and cheerful. You can still see buildings, but at a distance.

Though not so popular with the locals, it definitely is a hit with the birds! I wasn’t really expecting to see so many birds of such varied species. Truth be told, I did not even know what to expect. All we did was follow the route traced out on Google Maps!!

But, what adds to the charm of this Lake and makes it so special is the antiquated Pump House built on it.

Nearly 120 years old, the lake and pump house were apparently built by the Nizam of Hyderabad as part of his program for bringing in water to the city. There is even an 1897 inscribed on its dome! :D

You reach the pump house by a stretch of narrow elevated road, which is more of a dirt trail sloping off on either side with thorny shrubs as barricades. So, the only way to reach it is by foot or by a bike. When we had gone there do a recce of this place, we were driving as suggested by google maps and we were already on this road with no where else to go but ahead! Some careful manoeuvering did get us there, but I wouldn’t suggest this.

Walking is more fun anyway, for then you notice more.

The Pump House is a beautiful structure which also creates gorgeous, intricate shadow patterns with the sun’s rays. You would not be able to resist clicking pictures of it!

Waiting – literally – just around the corner is a view just as picturesque if not more. You can go around the ledge for a beautiful view of the lake and the breathtaking quality of it is enhanced not only by the absolute vertical drop from there, but the cool breeze blowing in your face.

Well, finding not just water but in a place that is relatively un-intruded upon by man, plus the bonus of a cool tranquil breeze is a very rare occurrence here, so, I am sorry if I go a little overboard with my adjectives!!

PS: This fellow here, gets a special mention for just being so cute! He led us to the lake after ascertaining the ‘goodness’ of each of us.

January 2, 2016
a Fortress, a Monastery & a Lake: Dhankar

Meet Dhankar. A village, a Fortress, a Monastery & a Lake.

Above the Dhankar Village, sit the Fortress and the Monastery, watching over the confluence of the Spiti and Pin Rivers.

This spectacular setting is what gives the place its name, Dhankar, meaning ‘Fort on a Cliff’.

The village of Dhankar lies somewhere between Kaza and Tabo in Spiti Valley, Himachal Pradesh. At a height of 12,774 feet, looking over the village is the Dhankar Gompa, built like a fort, just like the Ki and Thiksey Monasteries.

Looking over the monastery is the Dhankar Fortress, which served as the traditional home of the royal family when Dhankar was the capital of the Spiti Valley Kingdom in around the 17th century.

and, around 1.5km away from here is the Dhankar Lake.

Though the hike uphill felt more like 10kms, it did have me going over and over in my head “I climbed a mountain!!” :D.

(the views as I climbed..)

By the time I got to the lake, I felt like I had finally achieved something for the first time in my life!

Another first at a Himalayan Lake. The other being my first ever ‘night in a tent’ at the Chandratal Lake, amidst the Himalayas. and, also that it was my first time in the Himalayas!

Which is why these 2 lakes are my Top2 in The Lahaul & Spiti Valley and till today remain my most memorable ones.

Read Next: Where The Monasteries Are

Read More on Spiti Valley:

20 Photos to Inspire You to Visit Spiti Valley this Summer
Driving through Lahaul & Spiti
The Road to Serenity: Chandratal

December 12, 2015
Royal Ruins: Shey Palace

On the road from Leh to Thiksey, atop a hill, sits The Shey Palace and Monastery. It is by far the most picturesque of monasteries in India. Little surprise then that it was once the summer palace of the Kings of Ladakh.

The views that the Shey Palace commands are like no other. Despite the persistently thick cloud cover that dogged us through our week in Ladakh, it made for some beautiful pictures.

All you need to do is pick your vantage point!

It is said that the lake right across the road, once mirrored the entire palace, lending its name ‘Shey‘ – meaning mirror – to the palace and the village.

Though overrun now, it still is a thing of beauty and joy.

& it is not just the setting, but the Shey Palace in itself which is stunning. The wooden accents to the doors and windows only add to the beauty of the facade and make for striking pictures.

Here, it all comes together in a picture window framed in wood. :)

The monastery in the palace boasts of a large Buddha statue gilded in copper, brass and gold that spans across the two storeys of the split-level temple. So, you spend a good few hours not just paying your respects at The Temple of Sakyamuni Buddha, but also climbing around and exploring the hillside ruins in the crisp fresh mountain breeze.

There are chortens and stupas, prayer flags and wheels at every turn & corner.

Read More on Ladakh:

Little Ones of Ladakh
Celebrating Life & Beyond
In The Realm of The Passes: Khardung La
5 Reasons You Should Travel to Ladakh Off-Season
In The Nomadic Settlement of Puga

December 6, 2015
Where The Monasteries Are

I have always valued the Hindu rituals growing up and there is no denying that. But, that does not hold me back from aspiring to one day appreciate Buddhism in all its beauty.

My regard for this religion comes not just from the solace that their monasteries have always granted me, right from the first time that I entered one in my troubled times to every single time I do go back, but also because of how the people of this faith just are. I am yet to come across an agitated or envious buddhist! Qualities, unfortunately, that are so common and everyday otherwise.

By now, everyone reading this blog knows of my eternal love for the Himalayas and I believe there is no better home to Buddhism. Which brings me to this blog post, Where The Monasteries Are.

KAZA GOMPA

Kaza is the main town in the Lahaul & Spiti District of Himachal Pradesh and usually acts as the pitstop for most of your exploring in this district.

Though the Monastery (Gompa) in Kaza is not counted amongst the “important” monasteries of the region, it does not lack in beauty or tranquility.

And, for me, monasteries have always been places of quietude, which immediately fill you with a sense of peace & calm.

So, there it is, flagging off this list of Himalayan Monasteries.

KI GOMPA

The little village of Ki is about 12km from Kaza.

& sitting atop a hill, overlooking this village is the largest Buddhist Gompa & Learning Centre of Spiti.

It is also one of the most frequented and photographed in the region. Its popularity stems from how this monastery has been built like a fort in the Pasada Style of architecture.

Once inside, you realise that it it is not just the monastery nestled among the mountains that makes a pretty picture but that the views from it just as scenic.

TABO GOMPA

Tabo was not on the agenda of the group I was travelling with. But, I was lucky enough to make some friends along the way who were just as keen on visiting Tabo, despite the ‘no photography rule’. So, after some trifling deliberation, we finally managed to convince the driver of one of the SUVs to drive us to Tabo, while the rest headed back to Kaza & I can gladly say it was one of the best decisions on this trip!

Tabo is a small valley 48km southeast of Kaza. The Tabo Gompa founded in 996AD is said to be the oldest continuously functioning monastery in India & it being declared a UNESCO Heritage Site has been in the offing for a while now. Its claim to fame though, ironically, is that it was the setting of a bollywood movie in 2003!

The mud-brick wall temple complexes of the Tabo Gompa house some of the most exquisite Indo-Tibetan art that I have ever seen. The murals not only hold religious & aesthetic significance but are important historically as well, as a remnant of the early buddhist culture.

Here in & rightly so, comes the no photography rule. But, there is so much to see and discover even around the Gompa in Tabo that I for once am glad it is a non-photographer zone!!

The main stupa outside the temple complex.

The hillside caves up above the village and the monastery is where the monks used to live once. It is now an Archaeological Survey of India protected site.

November 16, 2015
In the Realm of The Passes: Khardung La

I have been to the Himalayas twice. Both times, my most memorable moments have been at the Lakes & the Passes. Their beauty is incomparable & my love for them is eternal.

With the crisp mountain air in our face, listening to the Buddhist Morning Prayer, Khardung La or the ‘Pass of the Lower Castle’ is where we headed to first, after a day of acclimatisation. This Himalayan Pass’s claim to tourist-fame is that at 18,380 feet it is the highest motorable road in the world. But this is a fact that is more often than not disputed.

While being photographed with this signboard is a classic tourist must-do. These three Stupas with the fluttering prayer flags crowning them remain the photographers’ favourite.

A short climb gets you here, to the quaint little temple & these stupas.

The mountainside disappears in prayer flags & as you find your way through them, you might come up short of breath, for the climb though short gets a little tough. The rarified atmosphere of Khardung La, at its immense height is known to cause altitude sickness. Though no one in the group had to tackle with this, it is recommended that you check your oxygen levels & blood pressure before you decide to undertake this journey.

Once you reach level ground & catch your breath, you cannot help but be overwhelmed! The Himalayas just never cease to surprise you with all that they have to offer. The scenic beauty, which inspires in you a sense of achievement & pride in just being able to witness it. The solitude, which makes you feel like you have found your own little space of peace in this crowded world, ‘far from the madding crowd’ so to say!

Also Read: The Goat Village: Take me away!

Right opposite to the stupas, a series of steps lead you to a rain-washed cabin & from this edge, the snow covered peaks are almost within touching distance and the wooden cabin only adds to the intrigue of the scene.

PS: When you come back down, DO NOT miss the Qahwah at Rinchen Cafe. The only canteen amongst the few structures on the other side of the road.

While the Arabic Qahwah is coffee based, the Kashmiri version is tea based. Nonetheless, you will love the lingering taste of the cardamom from this warm drink, right after being out in the sharp chilly breeze. Atleast I did!
& I still miss it. ;)

Read More on Ladakh:

Little Ones of Ladakh
Ladakh Festival: Celebrating Life & Beyond
Royal Ruins: Shey Palace
5 Reasons You Should Travel to Ladakh Off-Season
In The Nomadic Settlement of Puga

October 13, 2015
Little Ones of Ladakh

I was never interested in shooting portraits, or so I thought!

Standing still, on the sidelines, as columns of brilliantly dressed Ladakhis walked by to the Polo Grounds for the Opening Ceremony of the Ladakh Festival, I watched. The multitude of tourists and photographers clamouring to capture everything. It stuck me. I was just a shy mouse.

Embarrassed though I was, I did make a not-so-successful attempt at clicking the performers as they made their way to the Ladakh Festival. So, over the week as I journeyed through these Himalayan lands, I tried to remedy this. I overcame my natural inhibitions & clicked portraits of the kids I became friendly with.

& seeing their eager smiles as they hugged my camera close and stuck their noses to the screen gave me more satisfaction than anything else on this trip!!

So, here you go.

This little girl was the perfect model & gave me the confidence to pursue travel portraits of the Little Ones of Ladakh. Which is why this is my favourite picture & therefore the first in this series.

I clicked this picture in Leh, as these little boys waited for their dad to take them to the Ladakh Festival.

& this little baby girl here, at the opening ceremony, watching the performances from the protective lap of her grandmother.

On our way to Tso Moriri, when we stopped at the village of Chumathang for lunch, I came across this group of children. The smallest & undoubtedly the cutest one, the little Matryoshka Doll in this photo was the subject of every photographer in that area then and by the time I got to clicking this photo she was ready to flee! While the older girl wanted her photo taken & was preening for it. Quite an interesting conflict I thought :)

Again a conflicting picture, where the older of the two gets very conscious as she tries to pose for the camera, on the way back from school in Thiksey.

To end this post, a photo of the most adorable baby boy I have ever seen, excited to be clicked as he stumbles across to the grocery downhill from Shey Palace.

Did you have to overcome some fear or reserve on your travels? Do tell me. Would love to get any ideas on how I can take better photos in my further travels!

Read Next: Ladakh Festival: Celebrating Life & Beyond.

Read More on Ladakh:

Royal Ruins: Shey Palace
In The Realm of The Passes: Khardung La
5 Reasons You Should Travel to Ladakh Off-Season
In The Nomadic Settlement of Puga

September 25, 2015
The Road to Serenity: Chandratal Lake

My first ever camping experience, back in the summer of 2013, was at the incredibly beautiful Chandratal Lake in Spiti Valley, a cold desert valley that is the middle land between India and Tibet.

A sweet water glacial lake in the Himalayas and the source of the Chandra River, the Chandratal Lake is a RAMSAR Convention designated wetland of international importance. It is also believed that the elusive Snow Leopard calls the catchment area of this lake its home. Though I wasn’t fortunate enough to catch a glimpse.

Where is Chandratal Lake?

Chandratal Lake is in Spiti Valley, Himachal Pradesh. A valley – in the hinterland of the Indian Himalayas – bordered by Ladakh to its North and Tibet to its East.

Nearest Airport | Kullu – Manali Airport, Bhuntar
Nearest Railway Station| Shimla
Nearest Major Town | Manali

Why should you visit Chandratal Lake?

To pitch a tent amidst the magnificent Himalayas on a freezing summer night and to sleep under the starlit sky is amazing enough in itself. But if the campsite was to be at this remote and not-so-easily accessible Moon Lake, there then you have the trip of a lifetime guaranteed!

READ: 20 Photos to Inspire You to Visit Spiti Valley this Summer

How to reach Chandratal Lake?

Manali to Chandratal Lake

Distance | 140 Kilometers
Mode of Travel | Road
Drive Time | 8 – 10 Hours
Route | Manali ? Rohtang Pass ? Gramphu ? Chhatru ? Batal ? Kunzum Pass ? Chandratal
(via Leh – Manali Highway)

This is the most popular and also the most convenient way to get to Chandratal. We left from Manali early morning & it was by evening that we reached Chandratal. After a slight delay at a roadblock on the Rohtang Pass due to a landslide, we made quick stops for breakfast & lunch at Gramphu and Batal. Then the mandatory stop at the Temple on Kunzum Pass & we were at Chandratal, just in time for the setting sun.

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In Photos: Chandratal Lake

The Chandratal Lake in all its glory.

First glimpse of Chandratal, as you reach the end of your hike from the campsite.

The walk that leads up to it..

& here you are at the lake.

Did you know?

The Chandratal Lake reflects the colour of the sky.

This image was shot at sunrise, just when the lake starts to appear – a clear blue mirror of reflections.

& as the sun sets, it turns green.

From the minute you get to the lake, an all-consuming sense of peace washes over you. Adding to the serenity of the lake are the Buddhist prayer flags fluttering in the breeze.

My life changed when I lay eyes for the first time ever on the mighty Himalayas. Their sheer magnificence is humbling. So, it is but natural that the experience of spending time at this pristine lake, nestled in the snow kissed mountains, totally transports you to another time and place.

Read More on Spiti Valley:

Where The Monasteries are.
a Fortress, a Monastery & a Lake: Dhankar
Driving through Lahaul & Spiti

June 28, 2015