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Category: Architecture & Design

Pancharamam Temples : One Ancient Shiva Lingam, Five Temples.

The Pancharamam Kshetras spread across Andhra Pradesh are essentially five temples built for just one Shiva Lingam. A popular pilgrimage circuit for the Hindus of Andhra Pradesh, this tour across temple towns (and, otherwise) takes you through Palakollu, Bhimavaram, Samarlakota, Draksharamam to the State Captial, Amaravathi.
The Legend of Pancharam Kshetralu
Once upon a time there was a Rakshasa King, Tarakasura and he owned a magnificent and powerful Shiva Lingam. Or so the story goes.
A war ensued between the devas and asuras, the classic showdown between Gods and demons.
Kumaraswamy, the God of War himself, was fighting the demon Tarakasura but couldn’t kill him, no matter how. For at every deadly blow, the rakshasa would reform, limb to limb, from his cut off body parts. This power to rejoin came from the aforementioned mighty Shiva Lingam that the demon wore.
The only way to destroy him was to break this powerful lingam first.
So, it was to be. And, by the end of the battle, there came to be five pieces of this mythical Siva Lingam. Which fell in five different places in Andhra Pradesh. Temples were then built in those locations around the fragments and it is these five ancient temples that now constitute the Pancharama Kshetralu.
Architecture of Pancharamam Temples
All of the Pancharamam temples are two storeyed stone temples, for fragments though the Shiva Lingams are, they are all massive Shiva Lingams in themselves.
To continue the story, the five fragments were installed and worshipped at five temples by the five gods, Indra, Surya, Chandra, Vishnu and Kumaraswamy.
Temple 1 |Kumararamam / Bhimaramam
Where | Samarlakota
Shiva Lingam Installed By | Kumaraswamy, Son of Shiva
The first one, by Kumaraswamy himself is at Samarlakota near Kakinada and is known as Kumararamam or Bhimaramam variously. The temple is beautiful, peaceful and yet not too crowded like the other four.
Getting There | From Kakinada, Kumararamam in Samarlakota is 15 kilometers away.
Temple 2 | Draksharamam
Where | Draksharamam
Shiva Lingam Installed By | Surya, Sun God
The next one nearest to here is Draksharamam. Probably the biggest and definitely the most celebrated of the five, Draksharamam isn’t just a Pancharamam Kshetra but also a Shakti Peetham.
This expansive tenth century temple boasts of a rich history and numerous mythological legends are associated with it, which is one of the reasons for its popularity.
Believed to be the site of the mythical Dakshayagnam – where Daksha Prajapati’s daughter and Shiva’s wife, Sati immolated herself in the Yagna Fire – it is one of the eighteen major Asthadasa Shakti Peethams in the country. And she is manifest here as the Goddess Manikyamba alongside Lord Shiva.
Getting There | One can get to Draksharam too from Kakinada. It is at a distance of 34 kilometers from the city.
ALSO READ: Road Tripping through Konaseema
Temple 3 | Somaramam
Where | Bhimavaram
Shiva Lingam Installed By | Chandra, Moon God
The Shiva Lingam in Somaramam is said to change colour according to the phases of the Moon. If it is a pristine white on full moon nights, it is a dark ebony on the days of no moon or amaavasya, probably owing to the fact that legend says, this is the Shiva Lingam that was installed by Chandra or the Moon God himself.
Getting There | The easiest way to get to Bhimavaram is from Rajahmundry which is 90 kilometers away.
Temple 4 | Ksheeraramam
Where | Palakollu
Shiva Lingam Installed By | Vishnu, The Protector
In Ksheeraramam, Shiva instated by Vishnu here, is Ksheera Ramalingeswara Swamy and the temple itself flaunts a nine storeyed temple tower.
Getting There | This too like the last one is in West Godavari and the most convenient way to get there would be from Rajahmundry via Bhimavaram.
Temple 5 | Amararamam
Where | Amaravathi
Shiva Lingam Installed By | Indra, God of Wealth
The last of the five temples is Amararamam in Amaravathi, Andhra Pradesh’s burgeoning new capital. Legend has it that this Shiva Lingam laid here by Indra wouldn’t stop growing and a nail was affixed to it, in an attempt to stop its growth. But the Lingam started bleeding and today devotees from all across flock here, to this ancient temple on the banks of the river Krishna, to catch a glimpse of that red stain on the head of the Lingam.
Getting There | One can get to Amaravathi from Vijayawada, which is only 18 kilometers away.

January 18, 2020
A Local’s Guide to Things to do in Hyderabad

Find yourself in the city of pearls for 2 days? Here is a quick guide to things to do in Hyderabad. Including where to eat and what to see for a truly local experience.

Things to do in Hyderabad

1. Go on a Heritage Walk in the Old City of Hyderabad

Conducted by the Telangana Tourism Department, this guided walk through the lanes of the old city, happens every Sunday from 7:30 am to 9 am. There are four walks to choose from, to explore the architectural and historical splendour of the city, but the walk from Charminar to Chowmahalla Palace remains the most popular.

2. Naubat Pahad | Science Museum & Birla Planetarium

A View of Birla Mandir from Naubat Pahad

The Sky Show at Birla Planetarium is popular across quite a few of the bigger cities in India, but here in Hyderabad, where it is located on one of the more popular hillocks of the City, the Naubat Pahad, it gives you two additional reasons to visit. One for the sweeping views of the Hussain Sagar and the pristine white Birla Mandir. And the other, for its Science Museum. The interactive science section here at the Museum has been engaging children and adults alike in exploring the basic laws of Physics in a fun way for over 27 years now.

3. Sunset Boating on Hussain Sagar

And who hasn’t seen pictures of the famous Buddha Statue of Hyderabad, believed to be the tallest monolith of the Gautama Buddha. Take an evening boat ride in the Hussain Sagar to see the Buddha against the backdrop of a setting sun.

This white granite statue of the Buddha was consecrated by the Dalai Lama himself!

4. Go on a Road Trip

Been there done that? Looking for some offbeat experiences? Then head out on the road to discover the unexplored side of Telangana. Plan your trip to include anything from forgotten forts to secluded waterfalls.

Here are some useful guides to help you design your road trip from Hyderabad.

8 Tourist Places near Hyderabad within 100 Kms
9 Picturesque Places to Visit near Hyderabad within 200 Kms
40 Incredible Weekend Getaways from Hyderabad

What to See in Hyderabad

1. Old City | Charminar, Laad Bazaar & MJ Market

See the iconic Charminar by the evening lights of the fruit sellers or on an early Sunday morning when it is at its atmospheric best with the Jummeraat Bazaar that pop ups enroute Charminar every sunday. While there, also check out Laad Bazaar, an entire lane dedicated to selling colourful bangles. Nothing else gives you a feel of old Hyderabad like this traditional bazaar.

One can also go up a minaret of Charminar to take in the entire old city – the heart of Hyderabad from its balconies.

Read Other Stories from The Old City of Hyderabad
Standing Still: Moazzam Jahi Market
Heart of Hyderabad: Old City

2. Qutb Shahi Tombs

One of the Domes of the Qutb Shahi Tombs

Though they don’t rank high on the typical tourist checklist, the Qutb Shahi Tombs are yet another must visit. Some of the areas of this expansive complex are undergoing restoration, in the hopes of bringing this mausoleum onto the coveted list of UNESCO Heritage Sites.

3. Golconda Fort

Golconda Fort, believed to be the strongest of the Deccan Forts holds number one spot on every traveller’s Hyderabad itinerary and rightly so. For the earthy brown monument with its manicured lawns isn’t just beautiful. The architectural designs to draw water and even cool the citadel on a hot day are intriguing. Also, the trek up to the summit of the fort is invigorating, specifically around sunset.

Read: Through The Ages: Golconda

4. Chowmahalla Palace

And when one has had enough of ruins and tombs, then a visit to the Chowmahalla Palace is sure to refresh you with a peek into the the erstwhile life of the Nizams of Hyderabad.

5. Birla Mandir

Built in a mix of Dravidian and Rajasthani architectural styles, the Birla Mandir is a beautiful marble structure sitting – in all its pristine white splendour – atop a hillock on the banks of the Hussain Sagar. The temple is dedicated to Venkateswara Swamy is a quiet and serene place.

Where to Eat – like a local – in Hyderabad

If you want to eat like a local in Hyderabad, then it isn’t just about the biryani or the haleem, you start your day with an Irani Chai and a side of Osmania Biscuits at Nimrah Cafe. Located bang opposite the Charminar, this landmark is the starting point for many a walk in the old city of Hyderabad, be that a photo walk or a food walk.

Just as iconic are Paradise and Pista House – ‘world famous in Hyderabad’ as one would put it – the former famous for biryani and the latter for haleem.

The city also boasts of eateries that grew from just a bandi (handcart) to full fledged multi storeyed cafes and restaurants. Amongst these are the Gokul Chaat Bhandar and Ram ki Bandi. Both worth a visit, for their chaats and dosas.

And if you are a vegetarian in Hyderabad, against popular belief, you needn’t despair. For you have an entire street that comes alive every evening and serves up everything from a dabeli or a vada pav to a fruit flavoured soda or a malai kulfi. That is Sindhi Colony for you. It is such a hit among the youngsters for street food that within hours of opening, most of these joints sell out. So be there in Sindhi Colony by five any evening, if you want to try out everything.

December 8, 2018
9 Unusual Weekend Getaways from Hyderabad
Every destination on this list of weekend getaways from Hyderabad are within 200 Kilometres of the city and can be reached in under 4 hours, making them just the place to head to for the weekend. So get out that bike or car and make the most of your 2 days off from work.
#1 Warangal

Distance from Hyderabad | 145 Kilometres
Best Time to Visit | June – February

In the courtyard of Ramappa Temple

Warangal is not just the second biggest city in Telangana today. It is also the state’s most historic, for it was once the capital of the Kakatiyas. Making it weekend getaway from Hyderabad for heritage lovers.

From magnificent medieval temples like the Ramappa Temple to the lyrical Thousand Pillar Temple, this 12^th century city is most definitely The Heritage City of Telangana. Also popular here is the Lakanavaram Lake, with its holiday island and the widely recognisable yellow suspension bridge.

Things to Do & Places to Visit in Warangal

Thousand Pillar Temple
Warangal Fort
Khush Mahal
Bhadrakali Temple
Ghanpur Group of Temples
Ramappa Temple & Lake
Lakanavaram Lake

RELATED
5 Places to Visit in Warangal

Getting There

Take the NH163 from Hyderabad to reach Warangal via Bhongir.

Where to Stay in Warangal

At the Haritha Kakatiya Hotel, which is probably the best Telangana Tourism run hotel in the State.

#2 Bidar

Distance from Hyderabad | 145 Kilometres
Best Time to Visit | All year round

Bidar Fort

If one loves visiting places of historic significance and can’t get enough of architecture, then, Bidar – just across the state border in Karnataka – is one of those weekend getaways from Hyderabad that you just can’t miss.

Though the most prominent landmark here is the Bidar Fort, there are over sixty listed monuments here, in this little town. The other often frequented tourist place here is the Guru Nanak Jhira Sahib Gurudwara. People of all faiths come here, even straight from the Hyderabad airport just to get water from the holy spring that is said to possess healing powers.

Things to Do & Places to Visit in Bidar

Bidar Fort
Chaubara
Madrasa Mahmoud Gawan
Gurudwara Nanak Jhira Sahib
Chaukhandi of Hazrat Khalil Ullah
Bahamani Tombs, Ashtur

RELATED
Road Trip Guide: Hyderabad to Bidar
The City of Whispering Tombs: Bidar

Getting There

From Hyderabad take the ORR and then the NH65 till Zaheerabad From there head right to get to Bidar.

#3 Jetprole, Kollapur & Somasila

Distance from Hyderabad | 175 Kilometres
Best Time to Visit | July – February

Jetprole, Kollapur and Somasila are small villages within minutes of each other along the left bank of the River Krishna.

These little hamlets are significant in that, here is where all the ancient temples that were in danger of being submerged – when the Srisailam Dam was being built – were brought to and put back together stone for stone as they were originally.

Somasila is also with popular with nature lovers for the scenic river bed is just ideal for a restful camping experience.

Things to Do & Places to Visit

Madana Gopala Swamy Temple (Jetprole)
Group of Shiva Temples (Jetprole)
Kollapur Palace, Chandra Mahal (Kollapur)
Madhava Swamy Temple (Kollapur)
Riverside Camping (Somasila)
Lalita Someswara Swamy Temple (Somasila)

Getting There

Take the NH765 from Hyderabad straight to Somasila. Or take the NH44 to Pebbair and then go left towards Kollapur.
#4 Khammam

Distance from Hyderabad | 195 Kilometres
Best Time to Visit | July – February

From prehistoric rock paintings to historic temples from the era of the Kakatiyas – who built many temples in the region dedicated to Shiva, Khammam is one of the more unusual of weekend getaways from Hyderabad.

The two twelfth century temples in Kusumanchi are just as exquisite in their architecture as other better known Kakatiya temples like the Ramappa Temple and the ones in Ghanpur.

It was also here in Khammam, in Nelakondapalli that numerous Buddhist antiquities and even coins dating as far back as to the Ikshvakus were unearthed. And, the Stupa that still stoically stands here is the testimony to this region’s spiritual significance.

Things to Do & Places to Visit in Khammam
- Khammam Fort
- Nelakondapalli Buddhist Site
- Kusumanchi Shiva Temples – Sri Ganapeshwara Alayam & Mukkanteswara Alayam
Getting There

Take the NH65 from Hyderabad to Suryapet and then head left to Khammam.
#5 Karimnagar

Distance from Hyderabad | 165 Kilometres
Best Time to Visit | July – September. Monsoon for the dramatic clouds.

Elgandal Fort

Undoubtedly Telangana’s most striking fort, Elgandal Fort makes Karimnagar, the state’s most underrated tourist destination. Little known and too far from Hyderabad, Karimnagar is peppered with quite a few other forts, ancient temple ruins and Buddhist sites. This is the one road trip on the list here that promises a packed weekend!

You can also hear me talking about my road trip to Karimnagar for The Musafir Stories, here.

Things to Do & Places to Visit in Karimnagar

Molangur Fort
Elgandal Fort
Lower Mannair Dam
Nagunur Temple Ruins

RELATED
Road Tripping through Karimnagar
Town of Hymns: Manthani
Lost in Time: Nagunur Ruins

Getting There

Take the Hyderabad – Ramagundam Road or the NH163 to reach Karimnagar via Siddipet. Alternatively, you can also take the NH44 from Hyderabad and go right from Kamareddy.

Where to Stay in Karimnagar

Haritha Hotel Kondagattu run by Telangana Tourism.

#6 Nizamabad

Distance from Hyderabad | 175 Kilometres
Best Time to Visit | July – September. For the rain washed landscape.

Armoor

An ancient temple that is a Ramayana place, where Rama is believed to have stopped on his way to Lanka to rescue Sita. Lakes both expansive and small, nestled between hills or sitting serenely behind boulders. Extensive gravity defying rock formations with hidden cave temples inside. All of these and more make Nizamabad truly an explorer’s delight.

It cannot get more offbeat than this if you are looking for one of those quick weekend getaways from Hyderabad.

Things to Do & Places to Visit in Nizamabad

Sri Kanteswar Temple
Domakonda Fort
Dichpally Ramalayam
Ashok Sagar
Ali Sagar
Armoor Rock Formations

RELATED
A Song of Stone: Dichpally Ramalayam
Of Rocks and Hidden Temples: Armoor

Getting There

Take the NH44 from Hyderabad straight to Nizamabad.

Where to Stay in Nizamabad

Haritha Indur Inn in Nizamabad City, run by Telangana Tourism.

#7 Nagarjuna Sagar

Distance from Hyderabad | 150 Kilometres
Best Time to Visit | July – October. Monsoon is when the flood gates open.

The Nagarjuna Sagar Dam in Nalgonda district holds the record for being India’s tallest masonry dam. Almost fifty years old, this dam which took twelves years to finish, is still considered to be one of the largest dams built in Asia in the recent times.

It is quite a sight to behold when all of its twenty six flood gates are open and the water gushes down in a roar.

Things to Do & Places to Visit in Nagarjuna Sagar

Nagarjuna Sagar Dam
Ethipothala Falls
Nagarjuna Konda Buddhist Site & Museum

RELATED
8 Beautiful Waterfalls near Hyderabad

Getting There

Take the ‘Sagar Road‘ from Hyderabad to reach Nagarjuna Sagar via Devarakonda.

Where to Stay in Nagarjuna Sagar

The Haritha Vijay Vihar Hotel run by Telangana Tourism. It offers beautiful views of the lake.

#8 Pillalamarri, Mahbubnagar

Distance from Hyderabad | 105 Kilometres
Best Time to Visit | June – February

Pillalamarri (Telugu for banyan tree and its children) isn’t just the name of a famous Banyan Tree but of the village – where it stands – itself. This seven hundred year old Giant Banyan Tree spread over four acres of land just outside the city of Mahbubnagar is so popular with tourists, that it now has a deer park and science museum for the children who come there.

Things to Do & Places to Visit in Pillalamarri, Mahbubnagar

Banyan Tree
Science Museum
Deer Park
Gadwal
Mahbubnagar

Getting There

Take the NH44 from Hyderabad, till Jadcherla and from there on head right onto NH167 to get to Pillalamarri, Mahbubnagar.

Where to Stay near Pillalamarri

Gadwal Haritha Hotel run by Telangana Tourism.
#9 Pillalamarri, Suryapet

Distance from Hyderabad | 132 Kilometres
Best Time to Visit | June – February

This small village just off the busy Hyderabad – Vijayawada Highway, somewhere near popular highway pit stop – Suryapet, does not boast of an olden Giant Banyan Tree like the other eponymous village mentioned previously.

This Pillalamarri, in Nalgonda District, boasts of two ancient temples from the Kakatiya Era. Some say that the beautifully adorned pillars of these Shiva temples have inspired an entire range of traditional jewellery in South India. Making this lesser known Pillalamari a definite addition to this list of unusual weekend getaways from Hyderabad.

Things to Do & Places to Visit in Pillalamarri, Suryapet

Pillalamarri Shiva Temples
Sri Erakeswara Temple
Sri Nameswara Temple
Pillalamarri Lake
Phanigiri Buddhist Site

Getting There

Take the NH65 from Hyderabad and just before Suryapet head left. Use Google Maps to guide you towards Pillala Marri Rural.
September 10, 2018
In Photos: Terracotta Temple of Hyderabad

A quiet descends over you as you find your way – through the expansive grounds of the Dadabadi Jain Sevashram hemmed in with trees – towards the Terracotta Jain Temple in Hyderabad. Only a stones throw from the other, more popular Karwan Jain Temple in Gudimalkapur near Mehdipatnam, the Dadabadi Jain Temple is a lyrical beauty of dulcet contrasts and a true oasis of peace in the otherwise crowded and narrow lanes of Karwan.

Dadabadi Shwetamber Jain Temple, Hyderabad

Built in a combination of terracotta and marble, this two hundred year old Shwetambar Jain temple makes for striking contrasts. You cannot but stop to admire the beauty of the rather unusual combination of the brick red of the terracotta and the pristine white of the Rajasthani Marble. Not to mention the intricate patterns carved into them. And, there is never a frisson of disturbance to the peace. Not by the pigeons flocking to the basins of birdseed kept out for them, nor by the steady trickle of regulars who come by everyday from all parts of the city to go about their solitary sojourn of faith and religion.

Past all this, as you enter the main sanctum, the smile on Dada Shri Jin Kushal Suri’s idol, to whom this temple is dedicated, only adds to the mood. You don’t have to be a Jain to experience a sense of stillness, here in this atmospheric temple.

Alongside the Dadabadi Shrine and terracotta temple, you will also find an old step-well, now in disuse, a conspicuously bright and new play ground, a multi-tiered marble fountain here and there amidst all the lush foliage on the grounds here. There is also an old peoples home and a wedding hall for Jains here.

Explorers Guide

Don’t Miss

Sundays and full moon days, if you want to attend a ritualistic Jain prayer.

Handy Tip

Though not mandatory, it is recommended that one wears white when visiting the Dadabadi Jain Temple. For it is of the Shwetambar Jain Sect.

Getting There

Head towards to the Gudimalkapur Park from Mehdipatnam. The temple is inside the Dadabadi Jain Sevasharam complex opposite the Sarada Nagar Community Hall, a little beyond the Gudimalkapur Park.

READ: 56 Incredible Weekend Getaways for other Jain Temples near Hyderabad

September 6, 2018
Road Trip Guide: Hyderabad to Bidar
In the northeastern corner of Karnataka, closer to Hyderabad than any other city in the state is Bidar. It is a city steeped in Islamic history and if you love visiting places of historic and cultural significance and can’t get enough of architecture, Hyderabad to Bidar is the one road trip that you must take. Even the celebrated Bidri Artwork though known as a Hyderabadi Artform, originally comes from here.

Hyderabad to Bidar Distance | 135 Kilometres

Drive Time | 3 Hours
Trip Duration | Full Day

Hyderabad to Bidar Route Map

Places to Visit in Bidar

Bidar Fort

Inside the expansive Bidar Fort

The most prominent landmark of this city though is the Bidar Fort. It was built by the first sultan of the Bahamani Dynasty, Ala Ud Din Bahaman Shah when he set up his capital in Bidar, this city that dates back to the third century BC. Built on the brink of the Deccan Plateau, the Bidar Fort has been damaged and renovated many a time, but it stands till date as one of the strongest and the better-preserved medieval forts of the country.

Chaubara

Chaubara, Bidar’s most popular landmark, at the heart of town.

Once a watchtower, this cylindrical Chaubara of twenty two meters is now a popular clock tower in the area serving as a landmark from where all the roads lead into different parts of town.

Khwaja Mahmud Gawan Madrasa

The facade of Khwaja Mahmud Gawan Madrasa in the Old City Fort Area

This Madrasa, the Madrasa Mahmud Gawan, that housed everything from lecture halls and a library to housing for professors and students – everything that could be thought of over five centuries ago – and even a mosque was built by Mahmud Gawan. And, so the name, Khwaja Mahmud Gawan Madrasa. He, in 1466, was the Prime Minister and an important figure in the Bidar Sultanate. Despite the ruined façade on the main road, you can still parts of all this still standing, once you go in or even just cross the road.

Bahamani Tombs

Bahamani Tombs in Ashtur

Four kilometres from the Bidar Fort is the final resting place of the Bahamani Sultans, the little known Bahamani Tombs. Some of these are in a state of disrepair today, but even these crumbling mausoleums stand a beautiful testimony to the art of an era gone by. And, no visit to Bidar is complete without a trip to these majestic structures located in Ashtur.

READ: The City of Whispering Tombs: Bidar

Chaukhandi Hazrat Khalil Ullah

Chaukhandi, Dargah of Hazrat Nemat Ullah Shah Kirmani in Ashtur

En route to Ashtur just before you get to the tombs, on the left is yet another idyllic setting for the ancient, to rest in peace, the Dargah Hazrat Nemat Ullah Shah Kirmani. Known simply as the Chaukhandi, this octagonal structure beautiful in its simplicity and clean lines is set in a lush expanse of green and is the tomb of Hazrat Khalil Ullah, a popular religious preceptor of the Bahamani Period.

Gurudwara Sri Nanak Jhira Saheb

Entrance Gate of Gurudwara Sri Nanak Jhira Saheb

The most frequented tourist destination in Bidar, though, remains the Gurudwara Sri Nanak Jhira Saheb. People of all faiths come here – sometimes even straight from the Hyderabad airport – to get the holy water from spring in the Gurudwara, which is believed to possess powers of healing. The structure itself is a classic example for modern day religious splendour, probably the grandest gurudwara I have visited till date. But, this for me completely shadowed the moment of quiet and tranquility usually experienced in a Gurudwara.

Sri Jharani Narasimha Swamy Cave Temple

The Jharani Narasimha Swamy Cave Temple is yet another popular destination, albeit of a different faith in the largely Islam dominated Bidar. Pilgrims have to wade through waist deep water in an underground cave to reach the inner sanctum of the temple get darshan of Sri Narasimha Swamy. Quite an experience in itself, that.

Hyderabad to Bidar Road Trip

Itinerary + Route
- Leave early morning from Hyderabad and you should be in Bidar in less than two and a half hours. Just in time for when the Bidar Fort opens and is relatively less crowded.
- Right in the heart of town are the two famous landmarks – Chaubara and Madrasa Mahmud Gawan. Visit these next, after the Bidar Fort.
- A few minutes from here on Chaubara Road are stores selling Bidriware. One can make a quick stop for souvenirs.
- On the way out of town, head to the Bahamani Tombs in Ashtur and the Chaukhandi Hazrat Khalil Ullah which is enroute there.
- While on the road back to Hyderabad, one can visit the Gurudwara Nanak Jhira Sahib or even takea short detour to the Jharani Narasimha Swamy Cave Temple.
Bidar Map

[googlemaps https://www.google.com/maps/d/u/0/embed?mid=1yPC-pKAh0UKP7xsIEA_XrkgA9oTPLr3B&w=945&h=480]

Getting There

From the ORR, take the NH65 till Zaheerabad and then head right.

Pit Stop

Famous Tea Point near Sangareddy. This little dhaba claims to serve the best tasting Chai in the area, so much so that you will see cars parked all along the highway. So if you are craving some good old Irani Chai, you could make road trip just to and back from here!
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For a more comprehensive Road Trip Guide to Hyderabad
August 16, 2018
Hotel Review: Maison Perumal, Pondicherry
Maison Perumal, a sepia serigraph of another time – dusted off perhaps, but not retouched.

Says CGH Earth‘s website for this property of theirs, Maison Perumal, Pondicherry.
& I couldn’t have put it better myself.

CGH Earth has two properties in Pondicherry – Maison Perumal in the Tamil Quarter and Palais de Mahe in the French Quarter just off the famous Pondicherry promenade. We split our time in Pondicherry in two parts – two days in the Tamil Quarter and two in the French, and stayed at both of these boutique hotels. One a restored Tamil home, another a recreation of a French home.

Definitely amongst the most charming of boutique hotels in Pondicherry, Maison Perumal is the one hotel there that I haven’t had enough of. Just as much as I can never tire off being in Pondicherry, I can’t think of not wanting to go back to this beautiful heritage home.

Maison Perumal Review: Past Perfect in Pondicherry

Location

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Restored by INTACH, this heritage building in the Tamil Quarter of Pondicherry was once – nearly three hundred years ago – a Chettiar mansion in the affluent neighbourhood around the temple. Maison Perumal is located right at the heart of the bustling side of Pondicherry, where the locals go about busily attending to their day’s work away from the precise boulevards of the French Quarter where most of the tourists restrict themselves to. It is the perfect location for those wanting to get a glimpse into the local Tamil way of life and still be able to get back to the promenade and its chic cafes and boutiques on a whim.

Design

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From the redoxide flooring to the typical colonial Indian wooden furniture, Maison Perumal, transported me straight back to my grandparents hundred and eighty year old house in Visakhapatnam and I happily walked straight back to those summer holidays of my childhood. This beautiful house is tastefully done up in furtniture and accents that are are alive with detail. And, the sunlight that filters in through stained glass windows only adds dimension to this heritage home sequestered away in the colourful lanes of the Tamil quarter.

Our Room

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Quietly elegant, the rooms are furnished keeping with the Franco-Tamil character of this property and this corner of India that is Pondicherry.

Restaurant + Food

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The smell of cooked fish that wafted from the kitchen clung stubbornly to all that came out of the kitchen. So much so that I couldn’t gulp down more than a sip of my fresh watermelon juice the first night we were there. Making the one restaurant in the hotel, out of bounds for vegetarians, especially for those like me, who have been so all their life.

& NO, there is no room service.

But having said that, the food is delicious and is served hot and fresh by staff who are willing to whip up whatever it is that suits your preference. Like they did for us.

Service

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We had checked into the hotel only late in the night, way past dinner time but the staff were so welcoming and helpful, they rustled up a quick vegetarian dinner for us by the time we were through checking-in. Not only did they suggest this themselves (we were too tired to even think of dinner!) but they did it happily too.

And, just for that they deserve a big thumbs up!

Convenience

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Wifi

Unlike most other hotels, wifi works well in the rooms too.

Drinking Water

Two litres of bottled water replenished daily.

Getting Out & About

The leafy lanes of the forgotten Tamil Quarter are shady, colourful and peppered with just the right amount beautiful old buildings. Add to that there is only the occasional tourist that wanders on to this side of the canal that divides Pondicherry into precise cultural quarters, there is much to explore right outside the Maison Perumal. The staff are also helpful enough to find you a “tuk-tuk” for those times when you aren’t just up for a walk and would rather head straight to the promenade or the more happening neighbourhood of Pondicherry.

Value for Money

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While Palais de Mahe, has the feel of a modern day hotel with all the amenities, Maison Perumal which is priced a little lower feels like an old lived in home, which is what it is. And, for those who love staying in heritage homes, Maison Perumal at around Rs.10,000 (150 USD) is good value.

My Take on Maison Perumal

Would I stay at Maison Perumal again?
Most definitely, yes!

What did I love about Maison Perumal?
Genuinely helpful staff
Decor and Ambience
Courtyard Cafe

What did I hate about Maison Perumal?
Smell of sea food. But thats just a personal quirk. ?
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Travel with me. Come find me on Instagram, Facebook or Twitter.
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Address

58, Perumal Koil Street
Puducherry

Find it on Google Maps.
July 25, 2018
Great Living Chola Temples – Vol II: Gangaikonda Cholapuram

Second on UNESCO’s list of The Great Living Chola Temples, is the Brihadeeswara Temple at Gangaikonda Cholapuram.

In a tiny village lost in time, is this 982 year old temple. This Brihadeeswara Temple too is built on the same lines as the Big Temple in Thanjavur, complete with a massive stone sculpture of Nandi facing the main shrine. Upon the death of Rajaraja I the capital was shifted from Thanjavur to Gangaikonda Cholapuram and there came about this smaller version of the original Brihadeeswara Temple.

This temple complex isn’t merely structurally beautiful. It is also tranquil. Owing not just to its gentler architecture but also probably to it’s secluded location.

After driving around all morning and noon in the summer heat of Tamil Nadu, it was evening by the time we got here.

& what with the setting sun deciding to play peek-a-boo from behind the looming rain clouds, an all pervading sense of peace descended over me, as I took my time exploring, strolling around the expansive, almost deserted grounds of the temple.

The bronze sculptures here are said to be priceless specimens of Chola art, but it was the Simhakeni or The Lion Well, that I found singularly intriguing.

Explorers Guide

Trip Duration: Day Trip
Getting There: Road Trip from Thanjavur.
Route: Thanjavur – Darasuram – Gangaikonda Cholapuram -Thanjavur
(183 Kilometres)
Distance from Thanjavur to Darasuram: 72 Kilometres
Distance from Darasuram to Gangaikonda Cholapuram: 39 Kilometres
Distance from Gangaikonda Cholapuram to Thanjavur: 72 Kilometres

Read First: The Great Living Chola Temples: Vol I

Other Temples in Tamil Nadu:

Rockfort Temple, Trichy

September 21, 2017
Streets of Pondicherry – Part II: Architecture

They say if you can’t afford a ticket to Europe, travel to Pondicherry instead.

Stroll through the white part of town and be transported in time and place to a laid back French town. Or just wander the streets to absorb the distinctive Franco-Tamil culture of the place.

This small seaside town has a lot to offer for those who are looking for a leisurely laid-back holiday.

There is always coffee and croissants to intersperse your endless explorations with. For, Puducherry is blessed with both – cafes & heritage – in abundance!

Once an important port of call and a very prominent fortified town, as it changed hands, it was razed to ground and its ramparts flattened to what are today the tree lined boulevards of Pondicherry.

Laid out in a grid, the town is divided into the French and Tamil quarters by a storm water canal.

Both these quarters are so distinctive that you can tell which part of town you are in just from colour and style of the houses that go from classical European architecture to vernacular Tamil in a step.

As a lingering shadow of its European past follows you along its every street or rue as it known here, the historical richness of this town comes to life. In its art & architecture.

So what could possibly be a better way to discover this quaint little town than via Heritage Walks and Cycle Tours!

My first day in Pondicherry, I walked 9.6 kilometres to be exact. Discovering urban street art and restored heritage bungalows.

Besides, in this town of neat little blocks, self reliance comes easy to a girl, who just wants to explore, camera in hand.

I have been to Pondicherry thrice. & my longing for it only gets the stronger. :)

PS: INTACH or The Indian National Trust for Art and Cultural Heritage has been working with the Government of Pondicherry and its public to conserve and restore the unprotected architectural heritage and townscape of Pondicherry. Almost all of the heritage buildings you see today have been brought back to life by them. Even the rocks to tame the sea on the famous promenade were by them.

They conduct heritage walks in the white town every morning and evening. Ending on the promenade, this hour long walk is a perfect way to to get to the beach just in time for dusk.

Read First: Streets of Pondicherry – Part I: Art

July 12, 2017
Grand Mosque: Walking on Reflections

Reflections, Reflections. Everywhere.
From the pristine white marble floors to the inky blue pools around them, its all about reflections.

The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi, of course!

Because one is not grand enough. We have two.
One real & one a reflection.

Located in Abu Dhabi, the capital of United Arab Emirates and an hour and a half’s drive from Dubai, is The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. Undoubtedly one of the grandest mosques today, it is visible from all the three bridges that connect the Abu Dhabi island city to the main land. & as you enter Abu Dhabi, it only takes ten minutes before this gloriously grandiose mosque in its pristine white and gold strikes a splendid welcome. Eighty two domes of Macedonian marble greet you from afar, and you know you have arrived at your destination.

The Grand Mosque, as it is popularly known, has to be one of the most iconic structures of the region. Also, probably one of the most photographed since it opened its doors to public in 2007. It is now the world’s second favourite landmark on Trip Advisor.

Why even Rihanna posed here for photographs and created quiet the stir!

Through a car park, a security building with screened-off ‘cover up’ rooms, and there you are out in the open. Where the glint of the sun reflecting off the glossy white surfaces gilded in gold is sure to catch you off guard.

Go closer and you see the sprawling complex of arches mirrored in the pools that surround the mosque. You are free to enter, wander around and take pictures to your hearts content as long as you maintain the decorum that one would accord a place of worship.

Once inside you are treated to a visual spectacle. Unending rows of crowned columns, a thousand to be precise. Ceilings into which Moroccan artwork is etched alongside verses from the Holy Quran. A courtyard, whose minarets stretch out to touch the sky and semi precious stones of hues ranging from the stunning blue of lapis lazuli to the blood red of agate come together with mother-of-pearl, in a floral motif on the floor. And the prayer hall brings it all to a stoic still, with shafts of natural light streaming in through the windows, onto handwoven carpets and massive Swarovski chandeliers that gleam with the forty kilos of 24-carat galvanised gold in them.

While the experience of taking in its beauty can only be described as overwhelming, it is the vision behind its founding father that makes the Sheik Zayed Grand mosque truly grand. It was for him, the first president of UAE, the late Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, an expression of Islam’s true religious values. One of the few mosques that is open to people of all faiths alike it is surely worth a visit.

Explorers Guide

Distance from Dubai: 125 Kilometres
Trip Duration: Half a day
Best Time To Visit: Sunset. The facade lighting has been designed to shift with the changing phases of the moon. Everyday the mosque lights up anew as the moon progresses from a crescent to a whole. So as night falls and colours fade, watch the whites transform into brilliant reflections mirrored in its pools.
Timings: Open to visitors from 9am to 10pm all week, except on Friday mornings when it is open to worshippers alone. During the Holy Month of Ramadan, the mosque is open only in the mornings, Saturday through Thursday.
Remember: It is recommended for both men and women to dress modestly. If found inappropriate, you may be asked to wear an abaya (for women) / kandura (for men) over your clothes.

PS: The mosque is very tourist friendly with a cafe on the grounds, free wifi and complimentary guided tours.

June 13, 2017
North meets South in Sitaram Bagh

Tucked away in a quiet corner of the old city of Hyderabad is the Sitaram Bagh Temple. Built by a banker Mr. Puranmal Ganeriwal in 1832, this centuries old Shri Sitaram Mandir is a sprawling complex of temples and beautiful airy courtyards spread over twenty five acres.

From the main entrance and its imposing facade to the labyrinth of quadrangle courtyards leading you on to endless discoveries, this peaceful temple is a visual treat. Built in a style that is exquisitely distinctive, it combines the North and South Indian styles of architecture with the European.

Back in the day, Seth Puranmal acquired land in what was then the village of Mallapally, in the outskirts of Hyderabad, laid out an expansive garden (bagh) and built a temple for Sitaramji. Thus bestowing on this temple, the moniker Sitaram Bagh.

This stretch of land was also the site for a Qutb Shahi Mosque, which stands till today, albeit separated from the temple by a concrete wall. Also on this expanse is an archaic step well that was connected via subterranean ducts to a well in the mosque. It is around this step well that the various structures of the temple complex, including a gaushala, ved pathshala and houses for the Bramhin families were constructed.

This entire compound is now a protected monument by the Archaeological Survey of India.

As you enter the main temple, intricately painted doors, imposing archways and massive colour blocked doors take you through a series of courtyards.

Each one opening out to a mandapa, a temple or to just an open-to-sky pavilion enclosed in European style terraces adorned with Rajasthani style jharokas.

If one courtyard boasts of a South Indian mandapa adorned with the Dasavataras carved in stone, the very next one will surprise you with a mandapa of European columns and fading frescos.

Even the two main temples alternate in their styles. While the Sitaramji Mandir is built in the North Indian style, with an entrance reminiscent of a palace in Rajasthan, the Varadarajaji Mandir is built in the typical Dravidian architecture style of South India.

The idols of the main deities are in marble, staying true to the prevailing theme of Rajasthani. Little surprise then that the Sitarambagh temple is popular with the local Marwaris in and around the old city.

The Hanuman Mandir though, sitting away from the maze of the courtyards and almost too close to the boundary wall of the complex is a little cut off from both the main temple and its old world charm.

It wasn’t until renovations began around 2015, that people even knew just how old or huge the stone idol of Hanumanji was. Only once the twelve inch sindhoor chola on the sculpture was taken off did they realise that the Hanuman idol was in fact burrowed knee deep in earth. The eight feet by five feet statue was then dug out and reinstated, complete with a new South Indian style Gopuram. What is distinctive about this addition though is that, facing the four directions are Abhay Hanuman, Veer Hanuman, Bhakt Hanuman and the Das Mudra. All of them typically North Indian on a South Indian style shikhar.

Every turn that you take in this grand layout, will only reinforce in you the awe that you experience at how beautifully North meets South in this temple.

Explorers Guide

Timings: 5.30 – 11.30 am & 5 – 8 pm

Remember: Dress conservatively. For though not really crowded like the other temples in the city, the management including even the security of the temple complex are quite orthodox in their ways. They double check to ascertain that you are indeed a Hindu before you are even allowed to wander into the outer courtyard of the temple!

Don’t Miss: The baoli (step-well). It is outside the main Sitaram Mandir and fenced off, making it in a way, quite easy to miss unless you go looking for it. Go straight along the path to the Hanuman temple, right across from the main entrance and you will find it to your left.

PS: The famous Purana Rangji Mandir in Pushkar was also built by the same Mr. Generiwal in the year 1844. Yet again, in the same unique combination of the South Indian Dravidian style and the North Indian Rajasthani Vaastukala.

May 24, 2017
Town of Hymns: Manthani

Named after a Khiledar under the reign of Sikandar Jha during 1803 to 1823, Syed Karimuddin, Karimnagar is one district in Telangana, which has ancient places seeped in historic importance to both Hindus and Buddhists alike. The most popular amongst these is Manthani.

Home to the ruins of a Gautameswara Temple, Manthani is a timeless village from an era gone by.

On the banks of the river Godavari, it had once flourished as the seat of Vedic learning. Also referred to as Mantrapuri or The Town of Hymns it gets its name from the Sanskrit word Mantra Kutam, meaning House of Mantras.

It is also popularly believed that Manthani is home to a thousand Bramhin families, which is why it is also called the Sahasra Brahamana Gadapa i.e. a Thousand Brahmin’s Threshold. Little surprise then that though the temple in Manthani is in ruins today, overrun with a patchwork of undergrowth that is a brilliant-hued green, the town continues to be culturally significant for Hindus.

Work is underway to put back the beautiful stone temple of Manthani to how it once stood. Meanwhile there is a new, fully functional temple on the premises.

Explorers Guide

Getting There: The distance from Hyderabad to Karimnagar is around 164 kilometres, but if you take the NH44 via Medchal you will reach the town in less than two hours. Manthani is a further 64 kilometres from here.
Route: Once on the road by the village, ask around and get to the ‘temple on the banks of Godavari’. It can get a little tricky, because this one is not on Google Maps.
Best Time to Visit: In the rains.

Read Next: Lost in Time: Nagunur Ruins

Read More on Temples in Telangana:

Of Rocks and Hidden Temples: Armoor
A Song of Stone: Dichpally Ramalayam
South India’s City of Moksh: Alampur

April 26, 2017
Nagunur Ruins: Lost in Time

Less than three hours from Hyderabad, the district of Karimnagar in Telangana is peppered with numerous lesser-known forts and ancient ruins, making it the ideal day trip destination. Not yet over run with tourists, here you can happily explore at your own pace.

Home to a cluster of Kalyana and Kakatiya temple ruins, Nagunur is one such village in Karimnagar. Once the centre of the Kakatiya Empire, it is today but a tiny village lost in time. With these temples at its heart, it does not take but more than ten minutes to traverse through this entire village!

The most significant among these temples – from the 12^th century – is the Trikuta Temple built by the Chalukyas of Kalyani.

Though constructed in the same style as the Manthani temple, it is in much better shape today, with the three shrines dedicated to Lord Shiva showing evidence of continuing worship.

Explorers Guide

Getting There: Nagunur is 260 kilometers from Hyderabad and the drive via NH44 through Outer Ring Road will take around three and a half hours.
Best Time to Visit: Monsoons. With the rain clouds as a backdrop, these ancient temples look serenely beautiful.

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Read More on Temples in Telangana

Town of Hymns: Manthani
Of Rocks & Hidden Temples: Armoor
South India’s City of Moksh: Alampur
A Song of Stone: Dichpally Ramalayam

April 12, 2017
The Great Living Chola Temples – Vol I: Brihadeeswara Temple

In and around Thanjavur are The Great Living Chola Temples, three temple complexes dating back to the 11^th and 12^th centuries. Built by the Cholas, who were undoubtedly one of the most powerful monarchies of South India that ruled for over four and a half centuries, all of these ancient temples are ‘living temples’ – classified as such by UNESCO on their World Heritage List – in the sense that the pattern of worship and rituals established over a thousand years ago continue as is, to this day.

Thanjavur, mostly known for the Tanjore (Thanjavur) Paintings that are unique to this region, is home to the first of these Great Living Chola Temples. Locally known as the Big Temple, this is the Brihadeeswara Temple in Thanjavur. The grandest of the three.

As the region passed on from the Cholas to the Nayaks and then to the Marathas over the centuries, a few additions were made to the temple complex, from protective fort walls to murals and minor temples. One such are the beautiful frescos painted onto the ceiling of the Mandapam housing the massive 25 tonne monolithic Nandi, mount of Lord Shiva or Brihadeeswara, as he is in this temple.

& this particular mural is undoubtedly reminiscent of the famous Tanjore Paintings, all it needs is a little touch of gold!

Everything about this temple is big. The 20 feet Nandi, the 15 feet Dwarapalakas guarding the entrances, the 216 feet Vimana towering over the Sanctum Sanctorum that has to be two storeyed to house the huge Shiva Lingam (lingam form of the presiding deity).

The Vimana built over a base tier of two levels rises to dizzying heights, carrying on it an octagonal stone Shikhara which itself weighs 81 tonnes.

Ancient inscriptions refer to this Vimana as Dakshina Meru, implying it to be Mount Meru of the South or Maha Meru, Lord Shiva’s mountain abode.

It is said that a special ramp was constructed to carry the Shikhara up, to install on the Vimana, from a site six kilometres away and that more than a thousand elephants were required in the construction of this temple. Which is probably one of most the magnificent of Indian temples.

In fact, the city of Thanjavur itself was created with the deliberate intention of establishing it as a Bhakti centre. So, here is this impressively massive Big Temple at its heart and radiating out from it is the city, growing in concentric circuits starting from the inner quadrangle of the temple.

A colonnade of sandstone columns run all along the inner perimeter of the temple forming a circumambulatory path or Prakara. Though the Prakara itself dates back to the original construction, the 108 Shiva Lingas set against the stunning backdrop of beautiful murals painted on these stone walls are a 16th century addition.

The main temple itself occupies the rear half of the inner quadrangle, while two colossal Gopurams (gates) – Keralaanthagan & Rajarajan – into which are carved monolithic stone sculptures, lead the way.

Exemplifying the pure Dravidian style of architecture, these Chola Temples are not significant not just archaeologically but culturally as well. For it is believed that the Cholas built their temples not just as places for their people to get together and pray but to serve as epicentres of economic activity.

No trip to Thanjavur would be complete without witnessing these marvels of workmanship. The sheer size of these temples will cause you to wonder, muse on the scale at which affairs of state were once carried out!

The other two temples which together with the Big Temple form this unique group of living temples are the Brihadeeswara Temple at Gangaikonda Cholapuram and the Airavateswara Temple at Darasuram.

Explorers Guide

Getting There: Begin your day trip with the Brihadeeswara Temple in Thanjavur, drive on to the Airavateswara Temple, Darasuram, making a quick pitstop for lunch along the way on this 37 Kilometres stretch. Complete the circuit with the Brihadeeswara Temple, Gangaikonda Cholapuram. The 72 Kilometres drive from here, back to Thanjavur will take around 2 hours.

PS: Here is a super shaky video of a few of the brilliant murals in the Prakara.

Decided to add this here to the post, inspite of it being such a terrible attempt at shooting video because, I do want to share with you atleast a glimpse of the natural dye frescos that are such a fine example of ancient Indian artistry.

April 2, 2017
Streets of Pondicherry – Part I: Art

New Settlement. That is Pudicheri for you. Interpreted into Pondicherry by and for the French.

From the Romans who came here to trade in the 1st century AD to the Portuguese who returned in 1521 to trade in textiles, Pondicherry has had a colourful legacy. Not the Pallavas, Cholas, Pandyas, Sangamas or the Mughals; not even the Dutch or British could lay claim to this town. It has and will always be French.

Atleast as Tamil as it can get, but with a constant presence of its French past.

The historical richness of this town comes to life in its Art & Architecture. A lingering shadow of its European past in its every street.

So, come walk with me.

A leisurely stroll through the streets of Pondicherry, as you discover yet another piece of Urban Art, just around the corner.

To be continued in Streets of Pondicherry – Part II: Architecture

More on Pondicherry:
Pondicherry, Racist much?

February 25, 2017
Medak: A Trinity of Faiths & more

Everyone in Hyderabad has heard of the Medak Church and if you grew up in this city it is highly likely that you would have even gone there on a school trip. It is after all the largest diocese in all of Asia and is believed to be second only to the Vatican, even across the globe!

What started off as a project of true Christian compassion in 1914, to mitigate the suffering of people during the three-year famine that had hit Medak then, has brought to this district its most famous landmark. It was the missionary Rev. Charles Walker Posnett’s idea, to create employment rather than run a free kitchen and this massive church built in the Gothic Revival style that took 10 years to complete did achieve this objective.

Notwithstanding the fact that the church gained its most renown for its beautiful stained glass windows – which do leave one spellbound as the sunlight filters through them into the inner sanctum of the cathedral – its most striking feature remains the 175 feet bell tower.

There is more to this sleepy little town though. Telangana’s most celebrated festival, Bathukamma is performed on a large scale here. Recognised as the symbol of the state’s cultural identity, this nine-day festival is celebrated in honour of the Hindu Goddess Gauri. Yet another festival unique to this region is Peerla Panduga. It is but Muharram, only celebrated by both Hindus and Muslims alike across the Sufi Ashurkhanas here.

& with the Tourism Department‘s Heritage Hotel at the Medak Fort one can enjoy the art of slow travel right here, only an hour and half’s drive away.

The Medak Fort is a testimony to the history of this district. Strategically located on a hill, this fort is known to have exploited the natural topography of the area in creating an invincible defence around itself, standing witness to Medak’s significance during the reign of the Kakatiyas.

This summit today offers one gorgeous views of the surrounding city.

The view from the fort is not be missed. For it surely is an intriguing sight to see a city grow and flourish around Trinity Diagonal – a Mosque, a Temple and the Church all perfectly aligned in a diagonal cutting across Medak.

Built around the 12^th century, the Medak Fort was once a command outpost for the Kakatiya, Bahamani and Qutb Shahi dynasties and is believed to have set the scene for many a battle for over five centuries.

Not much remains of the fort now, except for its three entrances – Prathama Dwaram (first entrance), Simha Dwaram (lion entrance) and Gaja Dwaram (elephant entrance). These are striking in their architecture and as their names suggest, are adorned with snarling lion heads and majestic elephants. Also standing untouched by time on the main entrance is the Ganda Bherundam, a double-headed eagle with an elephant in its talons. This mythical bird, an ancient symbol of royalty and the great Vijayanagar Empire’s insignia has since been incorporated into the present day Karnataka State’s emblem. One is then left to wonder if it isn’t but a remnant of the symbolic consolidation of the reigning dynasties of the era.

So, while planning your next road trip from Hyderabad don’t just strike Medak off your list, for there is a lot more to this district-town than just its record holding Church.

Explorers Guide

Distance from Hyderabad: 95 Kilometers
Trip Duration: Half Day – Weekend
Extend your Road Trip: Drive on to Pocharam
Route: Take the NH44 via Kompally to get to Medak.
Stop By: The road to Medak goes through the Narsapur Forest Range and you will find a horde of monkeys lined up all along the road. So don’t forget to carry some bananas to feed these guys. They are so accustomed to this that the minute you slow your car they will stand up and look into your window to see what snacks you have got them!

January 31, 2017
Dichpally Ramalayam: A Song of Stone

One of the oldest and the most renowned temple in Nizamabad is the Ramalayam in Dichpally. This 14th century temple dedicated to the Ram Avtaar of Lord Vishnu is also called the Indhoor Khajuraho and Khilla Ramalayam.

Sitting on a hillock the Dichpally Ramalayam offers one, sweeping views of the quaint little town of Dichpally and is undoubtedly a worthy vantage point to enjoy the early morning breeze.

This also makes it a picturesque location for taking panoramic shots, with an almost submerged ancient mandapam just about visible in a clear lake on one side and little brick houses with red roofs lined along its bank on the other.

While steps up the hillock lead you through an entrance typical of a fort complete with a fortification wall all around the temple grounds, which is probably why the locals now call this temple Khilla Ramalayam.

Considered to be a fine example of the Kakatiya’s architectural splendour, this stone structure of black and white basalt has sculptures on its pillars that are reminiscent of the ones on the famous Khajuraho temples, bestowing on it the moniker of Indhoor Khajuraho, indicative of a time when Nizamabad was Indhoor, named so after a Rashtrakuta King.

These carvings based on Vatsayana’s Kamasutra were so remarkable that even the name of this town traces its origins to it. These stone sculptures were called ‘Gicchu Bommalu’ by the villagers of that time, meaning pictures of Gicchu, the Sanskrit word for romance and beauty. Over time the village of gicchu, Gicchu Palle came to be Dichpally.

In the 13th century when Ala Ud Din Khilji conquered Nizamabad, there began a trend where Hindu temples were not allowed to be built, so did the construction of this temple stop midway and it was only many years later that the idols of Ram, Sita and Hanuman were installed here. The temple as you see it today was only complete in 1949 when steps leading up the hillock and a subway connecting it to another popular temple in Nizamabad were built under the stewardship of Gajavada Chinnaya.

Legend has it that in the Tretayuga, when right after meeting Hanuman for the first time, Lord Ram was on his way to wage war on Ravan, he stopped here on this hill and stayed a fortnight and it is to mark this that a Ramalayam was built here.

Explorers Guide

Distance from Hyderabad: 160 Kilometers
Trip Duration: Half Day
Route: Take the NH44 from Hyderabad to Nizamabad. Around 15 kilometers before you reach the town of Nizamabad get off the NH7 to reach Dichpally.
Getting There: The Ramalayam is the biggest and most popular place in town and the wider roads in town leading here are an evidence to that. Follow the sign posts and soon you will spot the ‘temple on the hillock’.

Read Next: Of Rocks and Hidden Temples: Armoor

Read More on Other Ramayana Places:

Ammapalli: Tollywood’s Favourite Temple!

November 23, 2016
Road Tripping through Karimnagar

I had just upgraded my gear during the week – to a Full Frame Camera and a Wide Angle Lens from my first DX format Nikon Kit and my itchy feet just couldn’t wait for the weekend to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city and test it.

I love road trips. Not only do they add a sense of adventure to one’s photo making journeys but they also make for that perfect blend of individual and social moments, a time to reflect as well as bond. Be it the feel of the road slipping from underneath the tyres as you listen to music or the feel of the wind in your face as you simply contemplate life to when you are stopping along the highway for some not so healthy but interesting food.

& when I joined hands with CEAT my Sunday only got that much sweeter and a Road Trip to Karimnagar seemed to be answer! A two and half hour drive from Hyderabad, this district in Telangana is peppered with numerous forts and ancient ruins, making it the ideal day trip destination for some exploration and a bit of photography both.

So, here I am, chronicling my road trip adventure for CEAT Tyres in association with BlogAdda.

Stop 1: Molangur Fort

Built atop a massive granite hillock during the reign of Prathapa Rudra of the Kakatiya Dynasty, this once important fort is today nothing but a ruin listed on the archaeological department’s protected sites. The large scale granite quarrying happening in and around this fort is only adding to the structural damage of this site and ruins of the palaces and the megalithic burials are barely discernible.

Stop 2: Elgandal Fort

On the banks of the river Godavari, sitting atop a hill in the 800 year old village of Elgandal is this ancient fort on the verge. Built by Zafar Ud Dowla in 1754 AD, the Teen Minar of the Alamgir Mosque are the most striking feature of this stronghold that has passed through five dynasties over time.

Stop 3: Manthani Ruins

Another timeless village to have flourished on the banks of Godavari in Karimanagar is Manthani. Home to the ruins of the Gautameswara Temple, it also referred to as Mantrapuri i.e The Town of Hymns. Work is underway to put back this beautiful stone temple to how it once stood and meanwhile there is a new, fully functional temple on the premises.

Read: Town of Hymns: Manthani

Stop 4: Nagunur Ruins

Right at the centre of the village of Nagunur is a cluster of Kalyana and Kakatiya temple ruins. The most significant of which is the Trikuta Temple built by the Chalukyas of Kalyani. Though built in the same style as the Manthani temple, this is in much better shape with the three shrines dedicated to Lord Shiva showing evidence of continuing worship.

Read: Lost in Time: Nagunur Ruins

Other stops on this trip were the town of Karimnagar and Dhulikatta. But, by the time we reached the Buddhist site, there was a deluge and the 2 km walk along the dirt path through the fields was ruled out. Though it might seem that monsoons played spoilt sport, I have no regrets for if not now there is always the next road trip. :)

& with the setting sun behind us, having covered over 550 Kms on this CEAT adventure, we were already homeward bound just in time for some coffee.

Read Next: Road Tripping through Konaseema

August 15, 2016
Bidar: The City of Whispering Tombs

Of the 61 listed Monuments of Bidar, 30 are tombs. Little wonder then that Bidar is known as The City of Whispering Tombs!

135 Kms from Hyderabad, just across the state border in Karnataka is Bidar. If you love visiting places of historic significance and can’t get enough of architecture, this is one road trip that you must make from the city.

The most prominent landmark of this city – which dates back to the third century BC – is the Bidar Fort. It was built by the first sultan of the Bahamani Dynasty, Ala Ud Din Bahaman Shah when he set up his capital and 4Kms from here is the final resting place of the Bahamani Sultans. No visit to Bidar is complete without a trip to these majestic structures located in Ashtur, The Bahamani Tombs. Some of them are in a state of disrepair today, but even these crumbling mausoleums stand a beautiful testament to the art of an era gone by.

En route to Ashtur just before you get to the Tombs, on to the left is yet another idyllic setting to rest for eternity, the expansive and peaceful resting place of Hazrat Khalil Ullah, a popular religious preceptor of the time. Known as the Chaukhandi, this octagonal structure is beautiful in its simplicity and clean lines.

July 15, 2016
Poetry in Pink

Spread over a 1300 acre sprawling campus and peopled with elegant old buildings is the Osmania University in Hyderabad. The seventh oldest university in the country was brought into existence by the seventh Nizam of Hyderabad in 1918.

This beautifully green campus is so vast that its roads have long come to become regular thoroughfares in the city. So much so that, one does not even know just how many buildings are scattered around here and does not even spare more than a glance. That too when the names on the buildings get you thinking as to all the obscure possible disciplines of formal education and research available!

So it wasn’t till I actually stood under the Arts College Building one Sunday morning after I had decided to photograph it, did I realise just how smartly and tastefully this graceful old building has been designed.

Born from a farman (Royal Charter) by Nawab Osman Ali Khan, this university’s buildings were planned by Mr. Jasper, a Belgian architect, who was “found” by an expert panel of architects and engineers who had toured through Europe, America, Japan, Egypt and Turkey in the quest.

It is of little surprise then that the centre piece of this spread, the Arts College is but Poetry in Pink.

This Heritage Building of Pink Granite, which took 5 years to construct, was officially inaugurated in 1939.

Read Next: The Lost Pump House

April 16, 2016
The Age of Colonialism

This is my first post yet from the city where my parents grew up. :)

To me, Visakhapatnam has always only been a ‘colonial town’. So, when we were there for a day visiting my grandmother I did not want to let an opportunity go by, however small, of exploring, discovering and documenting at least a little of this beautiful, laid back city.

& as we strolled along the winding walkways of Waltair Club, I could almost picture an older, more settled me spending many a pleasant, relaxed evening here. (day dreaming!)

The fact that the club was the first to introduce electricity to Vizag, house it’s first dispensary and boast of the only telephone in town stands testimony to it’s ‘colonialism’.

Whatever it’s history may be, it still is a cool oasis of serenity in the hot and humid Vizag.

The colonial style bungalows, those grey stone walls, the clean meandering roads and the lush greenery of even the old old trees only add to the still and calm of this club established by the British way back in 1883.

March 27, 2016
Save The Sunday!

Sunday before last, I was in the Indian School of Business for their Digital Summit 2016. The “workshop” was barely more than a platform for the internet and social media giants to come and ‘perform’ their sales pitch!

So, in a bid to Save The Sunday, I walked around the campus looking to photograph anything that caught my eye. Luckily I loved photographing the wonderful symmetries, à la Jantar Mantar.

Bill wasn’t unkind or rude by nature, but now he struck. ‘I appreciate your kind invitation’, he said, ‘but I never go to the Yatch Club. I’ve never been inside it.’

Mr.Smithers looked alarmed. ‘Why not, Mr.Wainwright? Surely it’s a fine club.’

‘It isn’t that. Only you see I have a good many Indian friends – some of them very distinguished – and as you know, they are not allowed to enter the club. So I don’t go either… it seems to me rather odd considering that India is their country.

-Louis Bromfield, Night in Bombay, 1940

Atleast, they did not need a debate to decide if they were indeed an Indian Institution.

Read Next: Poetry in Pink

March 26, 2016
Standing Still: Moazzam Jahi Market

Named after Moazzam Jah Bahadur, son of the seventh and last Nizam of Hyderabad, The Moazzam Jahi Market is built entirely in stone.

Modelled after the ‘Universal Stores’ of the West, construction of this popular landmark began in 1933 by the City Improvement Board, whose President was Prince Moazzam Jah. Besides being a centrally located traders centre, it was supposed to have housed the fruit market that sent fruit to the Nizam living in the Falaknuma Palace then.

On the completion of the market in 1935, a clock was installed on the Minar facing the main street crossing. Today, this Clock Tower is iconic in the Old City of Hyderabad.

The architecture of this triangular granite structure is striking in its antiquity. Which is what probably prompted Nikon to conduct a photowalk here, the first Sunday of February. It is also on the HMDA’s Heritage Buildings List.

With remarkable archways, spiral staircases, colourful doors, flocks of pigeons and a flurry of activity from the 100+ shopkeepers setting up shop and scattering grain for the birds to feed on, the courtyard is the most integral part of this building.

81 years and this market has stood still. Not much has changed but the generations of shopkeepers and the kids that stop to binge on the “famous” handmade fruit icecream.

March 5, 2016