Named after a Khiledar under the reign of Sikandar Jha during 1803 to 1823, Syed Karimuddin, Karimnagar is one district in Telangana, which has ancient places seeped in historic importance to both Hindus and Buddhists alike. The most popular amongst these is Manthani.
Home to the ruins of a Gautameswara Temple, Manthani is a timeless village from an era gone by.
On the banks of the river Godavari, it had once flourished as the seat of Vedic learning. Also referred to as Mantrapurior The Town of Hymns it gets its name from the Sanskrit word Mantra Kutam, meaning House of Mantras.
It is also popularly believed that Manthani is home to a thousand Bramhin families, which is why it is also called the Sahasra Brahamana Gadapa i.e. a Thousand Brahmin’s Threshold. Little surprise then that though the temple in Manthani is in ruins today, overrun with a patchwork of undergrowth that is a brilliant-hued green, the town continues to be culturally significant for Hindus.
Work is underway to put back the beautiful stone temple of Manthani to how it once stood. Meanwhile there is a new, fully functional temple on the premises.
Explorers Guide
Getting There: The distance from Hyderabad to Karimnagar is around 164 kilometres, but if you take the NH44 via Medchal you will reach the town in less than two hours. Manthani is a further 64 kilometres from here. Route: Once on the road by the village, ask around and get to the ‘temple on the banks of Godavari’. It can get a little tricky, because this one is not on Google Maps. Best Time to Visit: In the rains.
In and around Thanjavur are The Great Living Chola Temples, three temple complexes dating back to the 11th and 12th centuries. Built by the Cholas, who were undoubtedly one of the most powerful monarchies of South India that ruled for over four and a half centuries, all of these ancient temples are ‘living temples’ – classified as such by UNESCO on their World Heritage List – in the sense that the pattern of worship and rituals established over a thousand years ago continue as is, to this day.
Thanjavur, mostly known for the Tanjore (Thanjavur) Paintings that are unique to this region, is home to the first of these Great Living Chola Temples. Locally known as the Big Temple, this is the Brihadeeswara Temple in Thanjavur. The grandest of the three.
As the region passed on from the Cholas to the Nayaks and then to the Marathas over the centuries, a few additions were made to the temple complex, from protective fort walls to murals and minor temples. One such are the beautiful frescos painted onto the ceiling of the Mandapam housing the massive 25 tonne monolithic Nandi, mount of Lord Shiva or Brihadeeswara, as he is in this temple.
& this particular mural is undoubtedly reminiscent of the famous Tanjore Paintings, all it needs is a little touch of gold!
Everything about this temple is big. The 20 feet Nandi, the 15 feet Dwarapalakas guarding the entrances, the 216 feet Vimana towering over the Sanctum Sanctorum that has to be two storeyed to house the huge Shiva Lingam (lingam form of the presiding deity).
The Vimana built over a base tier of two levels rises to dizzying heights, carrying on it an octagonal stone Shikhara which itself weighs 81 tonnes.
Ancient inscriptions refer to this Vimana as Dakshina Meru, implying it to be Mount Meru of the South or Maha Meru, Lord Shiva’s mountain abode.
It is said that a special ramp was constructed to carry the Shikhara up, to install on the Vimana, from a site six kilometres away and that more than a thousand elephants were required in the construction of this temple. Which is probably one of most the magnificent of Indian temples.
In fact, the city of Thanjavur itself was created with the deliberate intention of establishing it as a Bhakti centre. So, here is this impressively massive Big Temple at its heart and radiating out from it is the city, growing in concentric circuits starting from the inner quadrangle of the temple.
A colonnade of sandstone columns run all along the inner perimeter of the temple forming a circumambulatory path or Prakara. Though the Prakara itself dates back to the original construction, the 108 Shiva Lingas set against the stunning backdrop of beautiful murals painted on these stone walls are a 16th century addition.
The main temple itself occupies the rear half of the inner quadrangle, while two colossal Gopurams (gates) – Keralaanthagan & Rajarajan – into which are carved monolithic stone sculptures, lead the way.
Exemplifying the pure Dravidian style of architecture, these Chola Temples are not significant not just archaeologically but culturally as well. For it is believed that the Cholas built their temples not just as places for their people to get together and pray but to serve as epicentres of economic activity.
No trip to Thanjavur would be complete without witnessing these marvels of workmanship. The sheer size of these temples will cause you to wonder, muse on the scale at which affairs of state were once carried out!
The other two temples which together with the Big Temple form this unique group of living temples are the Brihadeeswara Temple at Gangaikonda Cholapuram and the Airavateswara Temple at Darasuram.
Explorers Guide
Getting There: Begin your day trip with the Brihadeeswara Temple in Thanjavur, drive on to the Airavateswara Temple, Darasuram, making a quick pitstop for lunch along the way on this 37 Kilometres stretch. Complete the circuit with the Brihadeeswara Temple, Gangaikonda Cholapuram. The 72 Kilometres drive from here, back to Thanjavur will take around 2 hours.
PS: Here is a super shaky video of a few of the brilliant murals in the Prakara.
Decided to add this here to the post, inspite of it being such a terrible attempt at shooting video because, I do want to share with you atleast a glimpse of the natural dye frescos that are such a fine example of ancient Indian artistry.
Thwack. Down came the elephant’s trunk on my head, in a gesture of blessing. I was surprised at how gentle it was, gentle giants indeed.
We were in Trichy, Tamil Nadu to attend a wedding at our family friends’ home and the temple elephant was here to bless the newly weds, to flag off their journey together on an auspicious note. Even though I grew up in a traditional South Indian family this was completely unexpected. After all, it isn’t everyday that a majestic elephant walks into a wedding!
But, knowing where I was, it shouldn’t have come as a surprise.
Amongst the many interpretations of how this town got its name, one that particularly sticks in this case is that, Tiruchirapalli could have come from Tiruchinnapalli, which when broken down means Holy Little Town. Or even Tirussilapalli, meaning Holy Rock Town. Which brings us to the Rockfort Temple.
Tiruchirapalli or Trichy as one familiarly calls it, has always been an important religious centre for the Hindus with many a prolific and ancient temple peppered around town. From the more famous Ranganatha Swamy temple of Srirangam to the Rockfort Temple, which has come to be a symbol of this temple town.
I am yet to see a temple so striking and haughty in its simplicity, as this one. Sitting on a 272 feet rock, right in the centre of Trichy, it draws your gaze in, from wherever in the city you are, like a pivot.
So, here is where we went first, this intriguing fort-temple on the rock.
As we wound our way through the busy bazaar at the foot of the rock, I really did not know what to expect. There were the usual lines of people going about their prayers – visible from the busy street – in the Ganesh Temple which was right there. But did Ucchi Pillayar Kovil not mean Ganesh temple at the top, literally?
It was then that our guide explained to us that there are two rock cut temples in the fort, the lower and upper cave temples.
Having paid our respects at the Manikka Vinayakar Temple, the lower cave temple, we began the steep climb of over 350 steps through the ancient rock that dates back to over a billion years ago.
Of the many cave temples that we passed by, cut into this monolithic rock, the oldest was built by the Pallavas in 580 AD.
The biggest in this complex though is the Thayumana SwamyTemple dedicated to Lord Shiva and his consort Goddess Parvathi, spanning a length of two stories in a regular building.
Stunning though it was, right from its architecture to the colourful murals painted on the walls of the cave, it is the Ganesh temple sitting right at the summit that takes your breath away.
As you come out of the caves and struggle to climb up the sheer rock face to reach this temple, you are bound to pause for breath and that is when you realise just how picturesque the panoramas that it offers of the city look.
We did too.
As the breeze blew cool in my face I caught my first glimpse of Srirangam, from inside the Ucchi Pillayar Kovil.
Explorers Guide
Distance from Chennai: 335 kilometers Trip Duration: Weekend Getting There: Sitting right in the center of Tamil Nadu, Trichy can be reached by road from Chennai in 6 hours. There are also regular flights from Chennai to Trichy.
2016 has been the year that has made me feel like a ‘Travel Writer & Photographer’. This year, despite its major misses (for me), it is right there next to 2012 on my list of my favourite years.
Who has a favourite year, you wonder. Well, I did. 2012 for me has always been special, not for the great things that I had achieved then but merely for the end it put to many a remnant of my most trying years. This year though will be remembered for the ‘good vibes only’!!
A Travel Writer, endorsed.
From those occasional spurts of writing years ago, which ranged from anonymous and loquacious book reviews to off hand fashion stories in local magazines to articles in HR Journals, I can now confidently say I have found my niche.
A Photographer, endorsed.
The Award that I won from The Government of Telangana on World Tourism Day – in recognition of the Heritage that a photograph of mine showcased – brought to me something far more significant. An Identity in the eyes of friends, family and society.
Anyone who knows me or the blog is no stranger to the love that I have for the Himalayas. The fact that the Himalayas were not even on the cards for me this year and my only trip there was on invitation, only made it sweeter. Not to mention just how beautiful the experience in itself was!
& How can a review of my year as a Travel Blogger be complete without a list of the destinations I travelled to in 2016?
I had just upgraded my gear during the week – to a Full Frame Camera and a Wide Angle Lens from my first DX format Nikon Kit and my itchy feet just couldn’t wait for the weekend to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city and test it.
I love road trips. Not only do they add a sense of adventure to one’s photo making journeys but they also make for that perfect blend of individual and social moments, a time to reflect as well as bond. Be it the feel of the road slipping from underneath the tyres as you listen to music or the feel of the wind in your face as you simply contemplate life to when you are stopping along the highway for some not so healthy but interesting food.
& when I joined hands with CEAT my Sunday only got that much sweeter and a Road Trip to Karimnagar seemed to be answer! A two and half hour drive from Hyderabad, this district in Telangana is peppered with numerous forts and ancient ruins, making it the ideal day trip destination for some exploration and a bit of photography both.
So, here I am, chronicling my road trip adventure for CEAT Tyres in association with BlogAdda.
Stop 1: Molangur Fort
Built atop a massive granite hillock during the reign of Prathapa Rudra of the Kakatiya Dynasty, this once important fort is today nothing but a ruin listed on the archaeological department’s protected sites. The large scale granite quarrying happening in and around this fort is only adding to the structural damage of this site and ruins of the palaces and the megalithic burials are barely discernible.
Stop 2:Elgandal Fort
On the banks of the river Godavari, sitting atop a hill in the 800 year old village of Elgandal is this ancient fort on the verge. Built by Zafar Ud Dowla in 1754 AD, the Teen Minar of the Alamgir Mosque are the most striking feature of this stronghold that has passed through five dynasties over time.
Stop 3: Manthani Ruins
Another timeless village to have flourished on the banks of Godavari in Karimanagar is Manthani. Home to the ruins of the Gautameswara Temple, it also referred to as Mantrapuri i.e The Town of Hymns. Work is underway to put back this beautiful stone temple to how it once stood and meanwhile there is a new, fully functional temple on the premises.
Right at the centre of the village of Nagunur is a cluster of Kalyana and Kakatiya temple ruins. The most significant of which is the Trikuta Temple built by the Chalukyas of Kalyani. Though built in the same style as the Manthani temple, this is in much better shape with the three shrines dedicated to Lord Shiva showing evidence of continuing worship.
Other stops on this trip were the town of Karimnagar and Dhulikatta. But, by the time we reached the Buddhist site, there was a deluge and the 2 km walk along the dirt path through the fields was ruled out. Though it might seem that monsoons played spoilt sport, I have no regrets for if not now there is always the next road trip. :)
& with the setting sun behind us, having covered over 550 Kms on this CEAT adventure, we were already homeward bound just in time for some coffee.
20 Kilometers off the city, on the outskirts, is the Osman Sagar Lake/Reservoir. Generally referred to as Gandipet, this lake used to be the preferred haunt of youngsters. Though I am not sure if it still is the place where kids sneak off to from their school or college, it sure has turned out to be a popular spot for those same kids who have now grown up to hold software jobs in this IT Hub that is Hyderabad.
Well it isn’t so much ‘outskirts’ either now, with its connectivity to Gachibowli-Hitech City and all the urbanisation that is happening in and around it.
But, this makes it one of the most popular destination for cycling enthusiasts in the city today.
& that leaves us with “Where is The Lake?”
We get there and we see nothing. Yes, nothing but the heavy fencing, barricades and cops. So I walk up to the fence for a closer look hoping to find something that I can photograph, document.
and??
Well, inspite of there being only a trace of the lake that once was, the walk leading up to it is so beautiful and tranquil, specially so on a rainy morning that, that in itself makes for a pleasant way to slow things down right here in the city.
So, a curious case of Afforestation and Urbanisation then?!
When a photographer friend invited me to a free Macro Photography lesson along with the chance to try a new camera, some lenses and extension tubes et al, I was not going to pass up the opportunity. But, to be honest the thought of getting myself out of bed early on a Sunday morning just to go to the Zoo wasn’t really that exciting a plan.
I had been to the Nehru Zoological Park when I was seven, and my dad was taking my cousins who were visiting Hyderabad and me. But from the happy little otter pair that greeted us to the photos that i got of the creepy crawlies, I came away happy and content and with yet another lens added to my wish list!
PS: This friend of mine is doing a Workshop for Kids on 14th Aug, for which this was a trial run. So, do check it out if you are interested and take my word for it that it was a super fun experience hunting for these fellows. :) & Macro Photography is surely one tough task master when it comes to patience.
Of the 61 listed Monuments of Bidar, 30 are tombs. Little wonder then that Bidar is known as The City of Whispering Tombs!
135 Kms from Hyderabad, just across the state border in Karnataka is Bidar. If you love visiting places of historic significance and can’t get enough of architecture, this is one road trip that you must make from the city.
The most prominent landmark of this city – which dates back to the third century BC – is the Bidar Fort. It was built by the first sultan of the Bahamani Dynasty, Ala Ud Din Bahaman Shah when he set up his capital and 4Kms from here is the final resting place of the Bahamani Sultans. No visit to Bidar is complete without a trip to these majestic structures located in Ashtur, The Bahamani Tombs. Some of them are in a state of disrepair today, but even these crumbling mausoleums stand a beautiful testament to the art of an era gone by.
En route to Ashtur just before you get to the Tombs, on to the left is yet another idyllic setting to rest for eternity, the expansive and peaceful resting place of Hazrat Khalil Ullah, a popular religious preceptor of the time. Known as the Chaukhandi, this octagonal structure is beautiful in its simplicity and clean lines.
Second in the series, ‘Artisan Villages of Telangana’, comes the village of Nirmal in Adilabad district. A two hour drive from Hyderabad brings you to this town where all the village artists have got together to create a co-operative society, recognise themselves and setup a store to sustain this dying art form.
Practised by the Naqash artists of the 14th century, The Nirmal Art Form is an ancient tradition that has today, translated into making of toys and paintings from the locally available variety of softwood, known as ‘Poniki Chekka’. Though slowly fading out with each passing generation of the artisans losing interest; it originally flourished in the area, as the then rulers were great patrons of this art.
Made from tender wood, put together with a mixture of saw dust in tamarind seed paste (chinta lappam) and finished with a coat of brilliant paint, typical also of the Nirmal Paintings, these handmade toys are very light.
Artists of both these Telangana villages, Nirmal and Cheriyal use the same indigenous raw material to create such varied art. While the Cheriyal Artists use the chinta lappam to sculpt their masks, these artists use it to glue on the limbs and wings to their animal and bird figures and as a base to smoothen and bring shape to the toy.
All the artists are registered with the village cooperative society and work within its framework. Every artist is given a single toy to make, which he makes in number and takes around 20 days to a month to complete and so does not have to adhere to a stringent daily work routine but can pace it out as long as he delivers on schedule.
You can tell a Nirmal Painting from its characteristic streaks of gold, always against a black background. & also, from the human form that is graceful in its expression and is eloquent in its influence of the Mughal Miniaturist Art and the Ajanta and Kangra styles of painting.
A Nirmal Painting of the Basara Gnana Saraswati Devi, the Hindu Goddess of Learning at Basara, an important pilgrimage destination in the district.
Explorers Guide
Getting There: Take the NH44 straight from Kompally. A smooth drive of 210 Kms should get you to Nirmal. Remember: There are quite a few tollgates along the way, so make sure to account for a little extra while budgeting for this road trip.
Places of Interest: Add one or more of these to your itinerary to complete your day trip.
Shamgarh Fort – Right at the entrance to the town, make a quick stop here for a view of the whole town from the ruins.
Pochampadu Dam – Only 3 Kms off the highway, you don’t really need to make extra time for this one. Also known as the Sri Ramasagar Dam, probably owing to the popular Ram Mandir located here, not only is this one of the biggest dams in the area irrigating 5 districts of both Telangana and Andhra but it was also one of spots for the Godavari Pushkaralu last year.
Kuntala & Pochera Falls -Roughly around 50 Kms further ahead of Nirmal, both of these are in the same direction. Kuntala Falls are touted to be the highest waterfalls in Telangana.
Basara Sarawasti Devi Temple – If religious detours are more your style, this is a must visit. Every day, thousands of Children begin their intellectual journey here with the South Indian Hindu ceremony, Aksharaabhasyam. This rite marks the start of a child’s formal education.
I had earlier on my blog, done a story on the Weavers of Andhra Pradesh from the Karipakam – Patur region. Just like that, are other artisan villages in India which are so exclusive and distinctive in their technique that they lend their name to the Handicraft, irrespective of the form they take.
Which is why I have decided to start a series titled ‘Artisan Villages’.
I shall try and visit as many of these places as I can, in the process, learning and documenting traditional art forms prevalent in India from as far back as one can remember.
I begin this series, with one closest home, Cheriyal.
An hour away from Hyderabad is the village of Cheriyal in Telangana. Here is where the famous ‘Cheriyal Scrolls’ come from. These canvas scrolls made from Khadi are hand painted in a style unique to the local motifs and iconography. Characterised by a dominance of the colour red in the background, these brilliantly-hued paintings even received Geographical Indication Status in 2007.
Painted in panels as a narrative, these are like comic strips from the past, depicting scenes and stories from Indian mythology and epics. Distinct in their style they immediately convey the age old Indian traditions and customs in a beautiful and engaging manner. Of which, both, Lords Krishna and Rama are prominent and the most recurring. Originally used by the village bard as a visual aid to go with his stories and ballads, these scrolls have all but phased out with today’s more mainstream ways of storytelling and entertainment.
The traditional Cheriyal Scrolls were sociologically and culturally significant in their time, for their use as a tool for educating the illiterate villagers. From a scroll that once had up to 50 panels, they have now come down to a single panel, as these artists adapt to its modern use as wall art.
Also coming from Cheriyal, are masks and dolls modelled along the same theme of ancient Indian mythology and local folk lore. These masks range from as small as the ones sculpted and painted on coconut shells to as large as the ones moulded in cement.
Now, there are very few artists practising this traditional art form, with Cheriyal being the last village standing that continues to produce these scrolls and masks. Of the three remaining artist families in the village are the husband and wife duo, Vanaja & Ganesh.
They are both government recognised artists, who have had the honour of transferring these Cheriyal Masks as 10 feet wall murals in Nagpur for the President, Mr.Pranab Mukherjee’s visit some time ago. While, Mr.Ganesh has conducted workshops under the South Central Zonal Cultural Centre’s Guru Shishya Parampara Scheme. Their two daughters also chip in during their time off from school, for these village arts are usually a family occupation.
All in all these scrolls when framed, make for gorgeous gifts. So if you are looking at exclusive party favours or corporate gifts with that characteristic touch of Indian-ness, you know where to go!
Not only would you encourage a dying art form but you would also be making a statement. :)
Explorers Guide
Getting There: Ideal for a quick day trip, Cheriyal is 54 Km from Hyderabad and can be reached by road in less than an hour and a half. Take the NH44 to get there. On the Way: Make a pit stop at any of the Dhabas in Kompally to refuel.
Get in Touch: With the artist, Mr. N Ganesh on +91 9000181059.
Ubbalamadugu in Andhra Pradesh is a popular trekking and road trip destination from Chennai. Located in Tada, deep in the jungle of Satyavedu just north of the Sri City SEZ, these waterfalls are more commonly known as Tada Falls.
A short walk through the trail gets you to the Jungle Pools and this is a lush green shady oasis where the water from the falls travels downhill to form clear cool pools. Which also gives this place its name, derived from the the telugu words Ubbari Madugu meaning spring pool. A further trek of 10 kms through the hilly terrain brings you to the actual waterfalls. But this is where you should stop, for though the trek is quite scenic it isn’t really a great trek for girls and a definite no-no if you are not with a group.
In fact, halfway along the trail, once we a caught a glimpse of the distant falls, we turned back because of that unmistakable feeling of unease to go ahead, heightened only by the isolated feel of the place and the groups of youngsters looking to break free! Even the monkeys don’t venture too far out here and like to stick around in the spots where they are sure to find leftover chips and coke.
It is nevertheless a beautiful place, so depending on the size of the group you are travelling with and the time of the day, you could pace your exploration.
Flamingoes, vibrantly hued and long-legged have always been popular in pop art and now with so many designers borrowing from art to add quirkiness to everything from accessories to home decor, you see these pink birds everywhere!
For all the beautiful colours of its plumage, these birds are not as popular in India as say a peacock, so they become “exotic” when found in India. After the disastrous trip this year to the Flamingo Festival at Pulicat, when I actually discovered them here, right in the city, you can imagine my joy. :)
& now I am more than excited and content about the photographs I got to click of them. Though I wager I might still go back to Ameenpur Lake to get better shots!
Not quite common knowledge, the Ameenpur Lake in Hyderabad is an expansive lake of over 100 acres, right in the backyard of one of the Industrial Areas in the city. Though more than half of it has dried up – the lake bed is chock full with shells, clearly once part of the lake itself – it still holds its ground as an important wetland area and a safe haven for migratory and local birds alike. This lake was recently adopted by the Telangana State Special Protection Force and the State Government is working towards declaring it a Heritage Biodiversity Park and has granted funds towards restoring it.
Explorers Guide
Getting There: It is just off the IDA Bollarum Road, between Miyapur & Bachupally. Use Google Maps to guide you there, besides on a weekend you can always follow the trail of vehicles heading in that direction once you are on that road. Remember: Be there at the lake early in the morning. The locals say the flamingoes leave by around 10 in the morning and are back only in the evening. I am yet to go there later in the day though, so I am not too sure about this.
Spread over a 1300 acre sprawling campus and peopled with elegant old buildings is the Osmania University in Hyderabad. The seventh oldest university in the country was brought into existence by the seventh Nizam of Hyderabad in 1918.
This beautifully green campus is so vast that its roads have long come to become regular thoroughfares in the city. So much so that, one does not even know just how many buildings are scattered around here and does not even spare more than a glance. That too when the names on the buildings get you thinking as to all the obscure possible disciplines of formal education and research available!
So it wasn’t till I actually stood under the Arts College Building one Sunday morning after I had decided to photograph it, did I realise just how smartly and tastefully this graceful old building has been designed.
Born from a farman (Royal Charter) by Nawab Osman Ali Khan, this university’s buildings were planned by Mr. Jasper, a Belgian architect, who was “found” by an expert panel of architects and engineers who had toured through Europe, America, Japan, Egypt and Turkey in the quest.
It is of little surprise then that the centre piece of this spread, the Arts College is but Poetry in Pink.
This Heritage Building of Pink Granite, which took 5 years to construct, was officially inaugurated in 1939.
This is my first post yet from the city where my parents grew up. :)
To me, Visakhapatnam has always only been a ‘colonial town’. So, when we were there for a day visiting my grandmother I did not want to let an opportunity go by, however small, of exploring, discovering and documenting at least a little of this beautiful, laid back city.
& as we strolled along the winding walkways of Waltair Club, I could almost picture an older, more settled me spending many a pleasant, relaxed evening here. (day dreaming!)
The fact that the club was the first to introduce electricity to Vizag, house it’s first dispensary and boast of the only telephone in town stands testimony to it’s ‘colonialism’.
Whatever it’s history may be, it still is a cool oasis of serenity in the hot and humid Vizag.
The colonial style bungalows, those grey stone walls, the clean meandering roads and the lush greenery of even the old old trees only add to the still and calm of this club established by the British way back in 1883.
Sunday before last, I was in the Indian School of Business for their Digital Summit 2016. The “workshop” was barely more than a platform for the internet and social media giants to come and ‘perform’ their sales pitch!
So, in a bid to Save The Sunday, I walked around the campus looking to photograph anything that caught my eye. Luckily I loved photographing the wonderful symmetries, à la Jantar Mantar.
Bill wasn’t unkind or rude by nature, but now he struck. ‘I appreciate your kind invitation’, he said, ‘but I never go to the Yatch Club. I’ve never been inside it.’
Mr.Smithers looked alarmed. ‘Why not, Mr.Wainwright? Surely it’s a fine club.’
‘It isn’t that. Only you see I have a good many Indian friends – some of them very distinguished – and as you know, they are not allowed to enter the club. So I don’t go either… it seems to me rather odd considering that India is their country.
Popular amongst the lakes of Hyderabad is the Shamirpet Lake. It is expansive, beautiful, not too crowded and peaceful.
Small wonder then that the majority of the resorts in town are located here. There is a deer park too in the vicinity, making it the ideal weekend getaway.
Do not fancy the cacophony of a run of the mill resort? The tourism department’s Haritha Lake View Resort is a quiet and scenic option too.
Though the water in the lake once touched both the Deer Park & the Resort, with the monsoons doing a no show last year, most of the lake is now dried up. Nonetheless it still is picturesque enough to spend a pleasant evening.
Named after Moazzam Jah Bahadur, son of the seventh and last Nizam of Hyderabad, The Moazzam Jahi Market is built entirely in stone.
Modelled after the ‘Universal Stores’ of the West, construction of this popular landmark began in 1933 by the City Improvement Board, whose President was Prince Moazzam Jah. Besides being a centrally located traders centre, it was supposed to have housed the fruit market that sent fruit to the Nizam living in the Falaknuma Palace then.
On the completion of the market in 1935, a clock was installed on the Minar facing the main street crossing. Today, this Clock Tower is iconic in the Old City of Hyderabad.
The architecture of this triangular granite structure is striking in its antiquity. Which is what probably prompted Nikon to conduct a photowalk here, the first Sunday of February. It is also on the HMDA’s Heritage Buildings List.
With remarkable archways, spiral staircases, colourful doors, flocks of pigeons and a flurry of activity from the 100+ shopkeepers setting up shop and scattering grain for the birds to feed on, the courtyard is the most integral part of this building.
81 years and this market has stood still. Not much has changed but the generations of shopkeepers and the kids that stop to binge on the “famous” handmade fruit icecream.
Now that I am working on the 52 Photowalks Project, I am constantly on the lookout for heritage walks and photo walks happening in the city. Seek Sherpa’s Galliyon Ke Raja was my first such.
It was great fun. Like walking around the Streets of Old City looking for subjects was not enough of an out-of-my-comfort-zone moment, there was this whole ‘Street Photography’ tag attached to it too! But, luckily for me, it was a great first. I even got to learn quite a bit on controlling the camera and understanding lenses better from the very helpful and nice ‘sherpa’ conducting the micro-tour (as they call it).
Now, no more words. I believe and hope that this time around, just the pictures are enough to tell a tale.
The Golconda Fort is a testament to the history of Hyderabad and this region.
Originally a fort of the Kakatiyas, it went through the Bahamanis to the Qutub Shahi Kings, who made it their capital. From the earlier peacock and griffin carvings to the later fort walls with its numerous bastions and battlements bear evidence to this fact.
Anyone who has lived in Hyderabad long enough will tell you how important this confluence of Hindu and Muslim cultures has been in shaping not just the city but even its distinctive language! Hyderabadi as it is called (a mixture of Urdu & Hindi) even extends its influence to the local Telangana dialect of Telugu giving it it’s distinctive twist.
Built on a hillock 400 feet high, The Golconda Fort derives its name from the Telugu word ‘Golla Konda’ meaning Shepherd’s Hill. Legend has it that a shepherd found an idol here and the reigning Kakatiya King built a mud fort around it.
Surrounded by a deep moat, an outer wall and an inner double wall, this Fort was neigh impregnable. Made even more daunting by the cannons mounted on its 87 bastions, Golconda was the strongest amongst the forts of Deccan. It was Aurangazeb who finally managed to infringe the fort in 1687 and it is said that even this was made possible only because of a traitor on the inside.
Meandering up the hill, within these fortifications, is yet another stone wall made from the boulders already there. So, this once-unconquerable-now-in-ruins fort is still striking in its architecture.
But the truly remarkable samples of the ingenious design and planning that went into the construction of this fort remain the Persian wheel water Supply and the acoustic signalling mechanism.
Relying purely on gravity, water was collected from, stored and supplied at different levels of this massive citadel!
Every building and wall is positioned in a way that allows sound from the entryway to be carried up to the hilltop. Believed to be a communication mechanism for the guards, one can still experience this by clapping at the threshold and hearing the echo travel.
The third feat of engineering in Golconda that has stood the test of time are the archways built in a way to allow cool breeze to circulate through the various palaces and halls, a definite breather from the summer heat of Hyderabad.
Other interesting must-sees in this fort complex are the still intact Aslah Khana (3 storeyed armoury), Ramadas Bandikhana (where the legendary devotee of Lord Rama, Bhakta Ramadasu was jailed by the last ruler of Qutub Shahi Dynasty, Tana Shah for surreptitiously ‘borrowing’ money from the royal treasury to restore the Bhadrachalam Temple), Baradari (pavilion on the hilltop), Ibrahim Masjid, Mortuary Baths (in today’s context just beautiful archways built in Persian+Turkish style), Taramati Mosque, Nagina Bagh (once a thriving diamond trade centre as attested by none other than Marco Polo, today, a garden).
It is believed that even the Kohinoor was mined here!
Things To Do: Get a guide who will take you up the hillock and regale you along the way with intrigues of the court from an era gone by.
or
Watch the Light & Sound Show conducted by the State Department of Tourism, where every evening, the history and romance of this beautiful place is recreated through music and story telling.
Hyderabad’s International Kite Festival found its way to a larger venue this year – away from the hustle and bustle of Necklace Road – the Aga Khan Academy near the airport.
Makara Sankranti is an important Indian Harvest Festival celebrated across the country. This day marks the return of the sun after the cold winter and is a harbinger of the coming harvest season for farmers.
Also known as Pongal in some states of the South, it gets its name from the dish that is made this day. Rice from the first harvest of the year is cooked in milk that has come to a ‘pongu’, meaning boil and sweetened with jaggery or sugar.
In Gujarat, where the biggest Kite Festival of the country takes place, it is Uttarayan. How ever many be the names that this festival is called by, the one common thread that weaves through it is the ‘flying of kites’.
India is of many religions and this is one of the celebrations that brings together, them all. For, it is believed that the custom of flying kites was brought to India by the Persian muslims!
Yes it does not make up for the nostalgia of that simple childhood joy. Of stringing up your kite with manja (thread coated with the tiniest shards of glass), running around with your spool on the terrace as you try to ‘cut’ as many kites as you can and then counting your loot at the end of it all.
But, this 2 day Kite Festival does bring to you an array of different kinds of kites from across the globe.
It is usually right after the sun rises and before the sun sets that one flies kites while it is still pleasant and the sun isn’t too sharp, but it is still breezy enough for the kites to take to the sky.
& with the setting sun, out goes the light and the International Kite Festival 2016 of Hyderabad draws to a close.
The Flamingo Festival in Andhra Pradesh is an annual affair by the State Government to increase awareness about the conservation of Flamingos, which make the Pulicat Lake their winter home. As far as I know, this 3 day festival has been happening since 2012, in January every year at the Pulicat & Nelapattu Bird Sanctuaries of Andhra Pradesh.
Only this year, there was not a Flamingo in sight.
The Pulicat Lake, which is the second largest salt-water lagoon in India,is the winter home to numerous Birds from Central Asia (of which Flamingos and Pelicans number the most). These birds come from as far as Siberia to as near as Ladakh, to mate and nest. Looking to escape the chill, they fly across continents, traversing thousands of miles of ocean.
and, what do they find when they finally reach here, their winter home?
Desolation.
Pulicat Lake, January 2015.
To get here you take the road to Sri Hari Kota, an Island off the coast of Bay of Bengal that houses the Satellite Launching Station of ISRO. This is a stretch of around 15km of road with the Pulicat Lake on either side, for as far as you can see.
When I had gone here last year, I had never seen anything like it before. The horizon was pink with flamingos and this ‘Road Through The Lake’ was like no other.
Sorry, no clear shots of the flamingos. :( This was all that I could get on my phone camera.
Pulicat Lake, NOW. January 2016.
Today the Pulicat Lake is totally choked up with sand, thanks to the roads being laid across it cutting off its water inflow from the ocean and making it unsustainable for marine life. 30,000 fishermen once depended on this lake for their livelihood.
Words fail me, as I try to describe the deliberate devastation brought to this place.
The experience of driving on that road-through the lake-to the Island, went from one end of the spectrum to the other, just like that!
No water, no marine life, no flamingos. NADA.
I have been writing this post in my head for 15 days now, but every time I add a photo or a word to the actual draft I can only feel that I am not able to do justice to the situation with my words or photographs. So here is a 15sec video from last year, which I hope paints a more accurate picture of the now no longer existent tranquil life of the Birds of Pulicat Lake.
One can only hope that measures are taken to reverse the damage and the Flamingos come back some day!
I was born in Hyderabad, and I have lived here most of my life. But, it wasn’t until a year ago, when a friend mentioned Fox Sagar Lake, did I even become aware of its existence. He hadn’t heard of it either, till his work for a magazine helped us discover this Lake.
& This lake is beautiful. Period.
Hyderabad is known for its Hussain Sagar and The Buddha Statue there. The Hussain Sagar has an iconic status that it shares with Charminar and now, Hitec City. But, in reality, it is an extremely polluted lake that stinks up the air! Inspite of this, being the only water body in an otherwise hot and crowded city, it draws in crowds by the hundreds and even thousands on holidays. I, like everyone else, have been drawn to it too.
On the other hand, is The Fox Sagar Lake. In the city, but wide, expansive and cheerful. You can still see buildings, but at a distance.
Though not so popular with the locals, it definitely is a hit with the birds! I wasn’t really expecting to see so many birds of such varied species. Truth be told, I did not even know what to expect. All we did was follow the route traced out on Google Maps!!
But, what adds to the charm of this Lake and makes it so special is the antiquated Pump House built on it.
Nearly 120 years old, the lake and pump house were apparently built by the Nizam of Hyderabad as part of his program for bringing in water to the city. There is even an 1897 inscribed on its dome! :D
You reach the pump house by a stretch of narrow elevated road, which is more of a dirt trail sloping off on either side with thorny shrubs as barricades. So, the only way to reach it is by foot or by a bike. When we had gone there do a recce of this place, we were driving as suggested by google maps and we were already on this road with no where else to go but ahead! Some careful manoeuvering did get us there, but I wouldn’t suggest this.
Walking is more fun anyway, for then you notice more.
The Pump House is a beautiful structure which also creates gorgeous, intricate shadow patterns with the sun’s rays. You would not be able to resist clicking pictures of it!
Waiting – literally – just around the corner is a view just as picturesque if not more. You can go around the ledge for a beautiful view of the lake and the breathtaking quality of it is enhanced not only by the absolute vertical drop from there, but the cool breeze blowing in your face.
Well, finding not just water but in a place that is relatively un-intruded upon by man, plus the bonus of a cool tranquil breeze is a very rare occurrence here, so, I am sorry if I go a little overboard with my adjectives!!
PS: This fellow here, gets a special mention for just being so cute! He led us to the lake after ascertaining the ‘goodness’ of each of us.
