Map In My Pocket

Tag: Travel Photography

Kozhikode Tourist Places: The Top 10

The Food Capital of Kerala, Kozhikode in North Kerala is a must visit destination on your Kerala holiday and here is a guide to Kozhikode’s tourist places, the popular and the offbeat.

A rather underrated destination, Kozhikode, with its historic sites, its delicious Malabar cuisine, boat building yards and uncrowded beaches can be the perfect starting point for exploring the Malabar Region of Kerala.

Like most cities in Kerala, Kozhikode too has an anglicised, easier to pronounce name, Calicut.

Calicut even lent it’s name to Calico, that Indian textile which was once at the crux of our country’s Imperial trade-history. Incidentally, it is also where Vasco da Gama first docked in 1498.
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Nearest Airport | Calicut International Airport, 28 kilometres from the city center.
Nearest Railway Station |Kozhikode.
Best Time to Visit | October to February. A coastal town in the tropics, Kozhikode is best visited in the cooler months.
Where to Stay in Kozhikode? Splurge | Raviz Kozhikode Save | Malabar Palace

Kozhikode Tourist Places

[googlemaps https://www.google.com/maps/d/embed?mid=11SVvJ-HfoIXF_Ay-dYGtinSCWedMc3Ly&w=945&h=480]

#1 Kozhikode Beach

With such a wide array of beaches to choose from, one of the first things to do when in Kerala is to head to the beach. Especially on the Malabar Coast, which is home to not just beautiful beaches but also to probably one of the most historic one.

And, if it is a peaceful promenade that you are looking for, to spend a contemplative evening watching the sunset, then the Kozhikode Beach it is. It is after all the heart of the city, from which it borrows its name.

#2 SM Street

Known for its distinctive food culture, Kozhikode is home to one of the oldest food streets in the country, SM Street. Short for Sweet Meat Street, this was once the busiest of food streets. It was the British who gave this street its name, when they saw it lined with endless stalls of halwa – which they referred to as sweet meat. It still is one of the busiest streets in Kozhikode, selling everything from boho clothes to sliver trinkets.

#3 Kuttichira Jumaath Mosque

If you want to lose yourself in the sights and sounds of Kozhikode, then the lanes of Kuttichira in Thekkepuram would be the ideal place to do just that. Around the Kuttichira pond are mosques and houses, old and beautiful, built in wood, in traditional Kerala style – an architectural style that is as unique as it is striking, thanks to the maritime history of the region.

Of these, the Kuttichira Jumaath Mosque or the Mishkal Mosque, as it more commonly known and the Muchundi Mosque are exceptional examples.

#4 Payyoli Beach

This little known beach on the Malabar Coast is stunning to say the least, what with its unending stretches of clean golden sand, swaying coconut palms and clear blue waters.

Little wonder then that Olive Ridley turtles chose this beach to nest!

But its with secluded locations like these that we need to approach with even more care. And travelling responsibly takes on a whole new meaning when you have to keep the peace of a pristine place like this going, so that these guys keep coming back to their home, year on year.

#5 Beypore Beach & Port

An Uru in the making at Beypore

Twenty minutes from Kozhikode is yet another beach and port, Beypore. Here, at the boat building yard in Beypore Port, one can go inside an Uru, the traditional Arabian trading vessel and see master craftsmen at work, bringing to life this striking handcrafted teak wood trading vessel that traces its origins back to over fifteen hundred years ago.

Related Stories
17 Places in Kerala to Visit for the Perfect Holiday
Travel Guide + Road Trip Itinerary for 2 Weeks in Kerala

#6 Kappad Beach

It was in the waters of the Kappad Beach that the Portuguese explorer, Vasco da Gama first landed, over five hundred years ago, successfully concluding his voyage to discover a sea route to India. And to mark that historic moment – which opened the floodgates of global imperialism, there still stands a memorial, albeit an unremarkable one.

#7 Mother of God Cathedral

If architecture draws you, then the ‘Mater Dei’ or the Mother of God Cathedral near Manachira in Kozhikode is a must visit. This Gothic church of curved arches and lofty wooden doors also makes for a picture perfect backdrop, for also seeking photo ops on their travels.

#8 Kadalundi Bird Sanctuary

This bird sanctuary on the banks of the river Kadalundi is a bird watchers delight. You could easily spend a happy day here spotting the different species, from seagulls to terns, that make this sanctuary their home. November to April is the typical season for sightings.

#9 Tusharagiri Waterfalls

Three waterfalls of the Chalippuzha River come together in the Western Ghats to form this powerful torrent of a waterfall that is the Tusharagiri Falls. Creating a gush so forceful that it gives the water it’s white colour and the waterfalls its name – Tusharagiri, snow capped mountain.

#10 Kalari Sangams

Kalaripayattu Practice at a Kalari Sangam in Kozhikode

There are many Kalari Sangams in Kozhikode where one can witness the fourth century martial art, Kalaripayattu and even train in it if one wishes to. This classical Kerala art form is definitely worth a watch and a quintessential ‘Kerala Experience’, so even if it comes last on this list of Kozhikode tourist places it one of those that can’t be missed.

One of the oldest and the more famous of these is the CVN Kalari Sangam.

October 2, 2019
A Local’s Guide to Things to do in Hyderabad

Find yourself in the city of pearls for 2 days? Here is a quick guide to things to do in Hyderabad. Including where to eat and what to see for a truly local experience.

Things to do in Hyderabad

1. Go on a Heritage Walk in the Old City of Hyderabad

Conducted by the Telangana Tourism Department, this guided walk through the lanes of the old city, happens every Sunday from 7:30 am to 9 am. There are four walks to choose from, to explore the architectural and historical splendour of the city, but the walk from Charminar to Chowmahalla Palace remains the most popular.

2. Naubat Pahad | Science Museum & Birla Planetarium

A View of Birla Mandir from Naubat Pahad

The Sky Show at Birla Planetarium is popular across quite a few of the bigger cities in India, but here in Hyderabad, where it is located on one of the more popular hillocks of the City, the Naubat Pahad, it gives you two additional reasons to visit. One for the sweeping views of the Hussain Sagar and the pristine white Birla Mandir. And the other, for its Science Museum. The interactive science section here at the Museum has been engaging children and adults alike in exploring the basic laws of Physics in a fun way for over 27 years now.

3. Sunset Boating on Hussain Sagar

And who hasn’t seen pictures of the famous Buddha Statue of Hyderabad, believed to be the tallest monolith of the Gautama Buddha. Take an evening boat ride in the Hussain Sagar to see the Buddha against the backdrop of a setting sun.

This white granite statue of the Buddha was consecrated by the Dalai Lama himself!

4. Go on a Road Trip

Been there done that? Looking for some offbeat experiences? Then head out on the road to discover the unexplored side of Telangana. Plan your trip to include anything from forgotten forts to secluded waterfalls.

Here are some useful guides to help you design your road trip from Hyderabad.

8 Tourist Places near Hyderabad within 100 Kms
9 Picturesque Places to Visit near Hyderabad within 200 Kms
40 Incredible Weekend Getaways from Hyderabad

What to See in Hyderabad

1. Old City | Charminar, Laad Bazaar & MJ Market

See the iconic Charminar by the evening lights of the fruit sellers or on an early Sunday morning when it is at its atmospheric best with the Jummeraat Bazaar that pop ups enroute Charminar every sunday. While there, also check out Laad Bazaar, an entire lane dedicated to selling colourful bangles. Nothing else gives you a feel of old Hyderabad like this traditional bazaar.

One can also go up a minaret of Charminar to take in the entire old city – the heart of Hyderabad from its balconies.

Read Other Stories from The Old City of Hyderabad
Standing Still: Moazzam Jahi Market
Heart of Hyderabad: Old City

2. Qutb Shahi Tombs

One of the Domes of the Qutb Shahi Tombs

Though they don’t rank high on the typical tourist checklist, the Qutb Shahi Tombs are yet another must visit. Some of the areas of this expansive complex are undergoing restoration, in the hopes of bringing this mausoleum onto the coveted list of UNESCO Heritage Sites.

3. Golconda Fort

Golconda Fort, believed to be the strongest of the Deccan Forts holds number one spot on every traveller’s Hyderabad itinerary and rightly so. For the earthy brown monument with its manicured lawns isn’t just beautiful. The architectural designs to draw water and even cool the citadel on a hot day are intriguing. Also, the trek up to the summit of the fort is invigorating, specifically around sunset.

Read: Through The Ages: Golconda

4. Chowmahalla Palace

And when one has had enough of ruins and tombs, then a visit to the Chowmahalla Palace is sure to refresh you with a peek into the the erstwhile life of the Nizams of Hyderabad.

5. Birla Mandir

Built in a mix of Dravidian and Rajasthani architectural styles, the Birla Mandir is a beautiful marble structure sitting – in all its pristine white splendour – atop a hillock on the banks of the Hussain Sagar. The temple is dedicated to Venkateswara Swamy is a quiet and serene place.

Where to Eat – like a local – in Hyderabad

If you want to eat like a local in Hyderabad, then it isn’t just about the biryani or the haleem, you start your day with an Irani Chai and a side of Osmania Biscuits at Nimrah Cafe. Located bang opposite the Charminar, this landmark is the starting point for many a walk in the old city of Hyderabad, be that a photo walk or a food walk.

Just as iconic are Paradise and Pista House – ‘world famous in Hyderabad’ as one would put it – the former famous for biryani and the latter for haleem.

The city also boasts of eateries that grew from just a bandi (handcart) to full fledged multi storeyed cafes and restaurants. Amongst these are the Gokul Chaat Bhandar and Ram ki Bandi. Both worth a visit, for their chaats and dosas.

And if you are a vegetarian in Hyderabad, against popular belief, you needn’t despair. For you have an entire street that comes alive every evening and serves up everything from a dabeli or a vada pav to a fruit flavoured soda or a malai kulfi. That is Sindhi Colony for you. It is such a hit among the youngsters for street food that within hours of opening, most of these joints sell out. So be there in Sindhi Colony by five any evening, if you want to try out everything.

December 8, 2018
What’s in my Camera Bag?
Let two people interested in Photography come together and the conversation immediately veers to what lenses one has, which camera body one uses and so on and so forth!

So, for all those who wanted to know what gear I use, here it is.

This is what’s in my camera bag.

Camera

Nikon D810

My first DSLR was a DX, Nikon D7100 (18-105mm) DSLR Kit. It was feature loaded for its time and still is amongst one of Nikon’s bestsellers. & then sometime last year as I was shooting a night wedding, outdoors in a low light setting (totally out of my depth here) it suddenly stuck me that it was time for a Full Frame.

Bigger Sensor = More Information Captured = Better Image Quality

That is when I got my Nikon D810 Body.
& now even my time lapses come upload-ready. ?

*I would recommend that you only upgrade when you know you have outgrown your current system. I had used my D7100 for a full three years under different conditions to know exactly I was looking for.

Lenses

Nikon AF-S Nikkor VR 16-35mm F/4 G ED

Genre of Photography | Architecture

Now that I was upgrading and I pretty much knew what kind of photography I enjoyed the most, I decided not to get the kit lens and opted for this lens instead.

It is a brilliant choice for shooting architecture.

I am not a “digital nomad” and I only do a few big trips a year. What I do though, is to go on a whole lot of road trips, hunting down ruins, temples, forts et al. And, this lens not only gets in a lot more of that into the frame but it also gives you wonderful depth when shooting with clouds as a backdrop.

So for those days, which is most of the time, this lens is the only lens I carry.

Nikon AF-S 24-70mm f/2.8E ED VR

Genre of Photography | Landscape

The last lens I got myself was the 24-70mm as my ‘alternate primary lens’. Now, whatever that means!

Here is why.

The 16-35mm is still my primary but when it comes to good old landscapes it is a bit limiting. For you cannot really play around with your composition where landscapes stretch away infinitely in to horizon. (Read mountains, deserts..)

Also there are trips where I can only carry one lens and then there are those where I can take along all my lenses but the conditions are such that it gets tough to change them too often. For instance, shooting winter landscapes in the subzero tempertures of the Himalayas.

It has in fact become my go-to lens and it rounds out my camera system perfectly.

Nikon AF-S 85mm F/1.8G Prime

Genre of Photography | Portraits, Food, Macro

I use this lens only rarely. I can vouch for its picture quality though. It is super sharp and the background blur just about perfect.

Nikon AF-S Nikkor 70-200mm F/2.8G ED VR II

Genre of Photography | For everything else!

This one is a work horse and is probably one of the most loved Nikon lenses ever. And, rightly so. I use it for just about anything from Bird Photography to Portraiture.

Got this one even before I got my D810 and it works just as good on a DX body.

Camera & Lens Accessories

Tripods

Benro T600EX Tripod with Head

This basic Benro tripod is the one that I have always used.

An inexpensive aluminium tripod like this is perfectly good for most kinds of photography unless you intend to use it in difficult terrains. Besides you wont feel irresponsible for sending it off in check-in baggage!! ?

Manfrotto Befree Carbon Fiber Travel Tripod

Because a sturdy, carbon fibre tripod can be used even in rough weather. For, it isn’t recommended to handle aluminium tripod legs without gloves in sub zero temperatures, also aluminium tripods are not sturdy enough in strong winds. Plus, this one is compact and lightweight too, making it ideal for Travel Photography.

& yes, it fits perfectly in the side pocket of my camera bag.

Velbon Sherpa 200R with PH157Q Pan Head

Sturdy. Available in India only now.

Camera Bags

Manfrotto Travel Backpack

National Geographic NG W5050 Small Rucksack

Memory Cards + Backup

Saves me the worry on those long trips entirely dedicated to photography. Also, it is safer to divide your memory into smaller units rather than risk putting all your photos and videos on one large memory card.

CF Cards

SanDisk Extreme PRO CF Card 32GB
SanDisk Extreme CF Card 32GB

SD Cards

SanDisk Class 10 SD Card 32 GB
SanDisk Class 10 SD Card 16 GB
Sony Class 10 SD Card 32GB

Card Reader

Transcend Card Reader for SD & CF Cards

Card Case

Memory Card Case (unbranded)

External Hard Disks

Seagate Backup Plus Slim 2TB Hard Disk
Seagate Backup Plus Slim 4TB Hard Disk

I can never have enough of Hard Disks shooting RAW!

Spare Batteries

Nikon EN-EL15 for my D810. Extreme weather conditions, far out places lacking access to electricity call for these.

Lens Cleaning Kit

I have a basic Photron Lens Cleaning Kit but if don’t mind splurging a little then I would say go whole hog with the Zeiss Lens Cleaning Kit. Besides being Zeiss, this one comes with a cleaning brush and a little pouch to carry it all in. Because, I know we all love our cameras and photography is one hobby that once you are in, you just cannot seem to stop coveting the brands or forever adding to the wishlist.

Camera Rain Cover

The Neewer Camera Rain Cover is the one accessory that I can not stop raving about! I have always just used my camera bag’s rain cover whenever I found myself stuck in a downpour while out shooting and had never really felt the need for this. And, then I got this camera rain cover as a gift and it was only after I used it in the Goa Monsoon, that I realised how much I loved it.

Extension Tubes

Kenko Extension Tubes + 85mm Prime = Macro Photography

Extras

iPhone 7+

Useful For| Portraits, Food Photography

Well, it is more of an essential rather than an extra. But yes, I use it for my Food Photography, Flatlays and whenever I want to quickly freeze a travel memory. That way I dont lose out on a moment looking for the right lens and I can still get a sweet enough background blur with the dual cameras on the iPhone 7 Plus.

Samsung Note 8

Useful For| Anything!

A mini point and shoot this one. Almost my secondary camera.

Manfrotto Pixi Smart

Useful For| Tripod for Videos, Selfies

Allows you to use the time-lapse and timer modes on the iphone.

Fujifilm Instax Mini 8

Useful For| Fun Polaroids

It was a present and I take it along on trips when I can afford to pack a little extra. For just a little behind the scenes fun!

Got anything specific to ask about photography or camera gear? Let me know in the comments below.

You can also get in touch with me here.
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July 30, 2018
PUSHKAR ji with Raghu Rai
Mr. Raghu Rai needs no introduction.

Five days of learning,
Three days of shooting,

& nine images barely passed muster.

Where is your camera?

You have to be ready. Always.

Those were his first words to me as we met at a dhaba along the road to Pushkar. He had left early from his home in Delhi, while I joined in from Jaipur later. This is where I met the entire group that I was to spend the next few days with, shooting at The Pushkar Mela. Eleven Photographers, the crew from Creative Image Magazine and him, the Father of Indian Photo Journalism.

Here is a quick look at what he taught us:
- No static images
- No pretty pictures please.
- Wait a minute. Perceive & Receive.
- Capture a moment. Stop thinking.
- Action
- Tension
- Continuity
- Intensity
- Resonance of forms
And, the oft-heard refrain that has come to be his legacy to me – “not enough”.

Every time I would read or hear people say how we need a human element for scale I never was convinced but after the life changing five days with Mr. Raghu Rai at the Pushkar Fair, I learnt to see through pictures. See what adds that spark of life to a photograph.

Though I might not always to be able to take a photograph that has action in every inch of the frame, interaction and an intensity of emotion and expression in every face. I do now try to incorporate at least a tiny gesture, some form of action – interaction and for lack of a better word the precious ‘human element’ in my images.

The pictures that I took while walking in the alleyways of Old Udaipur in 2016 today seem so much more interesting. The motion blur that seemed flawed then adds movement and fluidity today. The people dotting the scene who were then a crowd today narrate a story, a life paused as the shutter of my camera closed.

Thank you sir, for changing my entire perspective. I haven’t just learnt crafting images but also how to see and understand them. What I knew and understood of photography before you, now, seems nothing.

Thank you. ??

Of the ‘final nine’ photographs, one eventually found its place in the January 2018 issue of Creative Image Magazine.

While another found a place in my heart.

An indelible image now. It will always stand for Pushkar Ji with Raghu Rai for me. Incidentally, this was also the first image that I made alongside this brilliant master of photo journalism.

& these here are the rest of the images that got a nod.
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July 27, 2018
Hotel Review: Maison Perumal, Pondicherry
Maison Perumal, a sepia serigraph of another time – dusted off perhaps, but not retouched.

Says CGH Earth‘s website for this property of theirs, Maison Perumal, Pondicherry.
& I couldn’t have put it better myself.

CGH Earth has two properties in Pondicherry – Maison Perumal in the Tamil Quarter and Palais de Mahe in the French Quarter just off the famous Pondicherry promenade. We split our time in Pondicherry in two parts – two days in the Tamil Quarter and two in the French, and stayed at both of these boutique hotels. One a restored Tamil home, another a recreation of a French home.

Definitely amongst the most charming of boutique hotels in Pondicherry, Maison Perumal is the one hotel there that I haven’t had enough of. Just as much as I can never tire off being in Pondicherry, I can’t think of not wanting to go back to this beautiful heritage home.

Maison Perumal Review: Past Perfect in Pondicherry

Location

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Restored by INTACH, this heritage building in the Tamil Quarter of Pondicherry was once – nearly three hundred years ago – a Chettiar mansion in the affluent neighbourhood around the temple. Maison Perumal is located right at the heart of the bustling side of Pondicherry, where the locals go about busily attending to their day’s work away from the precise boulevards of the French Quarter where most of the tourists restrict themselves to. It is the perfect location for those wanting to get a glimpse into the local Tamil way of life and still be able to get back to the promenade and its chic cafes and boutiques on a whim.

Design

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From the redoxide flooring to the typical colonial Indian wooden furniture, Maison Perumal, transported me straight back to my grandparents hundred and eighty year old house in Visakhapatnam and I happily walked straight back to those summer holidays of my childhood. This beautiful house is tastefully done up in furtniture and accents that are are alive with detail. And, the sunlight that filters in through stained glass windows only adds dimension to this heritage home sequestered away in the colourful lanes of the Tamil quarter.

Our Room

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Quietly elegant, the rooms are furnished keeping with the Franco-Tamil character of this property and this corner of India that is Pondicherry.

Restaurant + Food

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The smell of cooked fish that wafted from the kitchen clung stubbornly to all that came out of the kitchen. So much so that I couldn’t gulp down more than a sip of my fresh watermelon juice the first night we were there. Making the one restaurant in the hotel, out of bounds for vegetarians, especially for those like me, who have been so all their life.

& NO, there is no room service.

But having said that, the food is delicious and is served hot and fresh by staff who are willing to whip up whatever it is that suits your preference. Like they did for us.

Service

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We had checked into the hotel only late in the night, way past dinner time but the staff were so welcoming and helpful, they rustled up a quick vegetarian dinner for us by the time we were through checking-in. Not only did they suggest this themselves (we were too tired to even think of dinner!) but they did it happily too.

And, just for that they deserve a big thumbs up!

Convenience

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Wifi

Unlike most other hotels, wifi works well in the rooms too.

Drinking Water

Two litres of bottled water replenished daily.

Getting Out & About

The leafy lanes of the forgotten Tamil Quarter are shady, colourful and peppered with just the right amount beautiful old buildings. Add to that there is only the occasional tourist that wanders on to this side of the canal that divides Pondicherry into precise cultural quarters, there is much to explore right outside the Maison Perumal. The staff are also helpful enough to find you a “tuk-tuk” for those times when you aren’t just up for a walk and would rather head straight to the promenade or the more happening neighbourhood of Pondicherry.

Value for Money

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While Palais de Mahe, has the feel of a modern day hotel with all the amenities, Maison Perumal which is priced a little lower feels like an old lived in home, which is what it is. And, for those who love staying in heritage homes, Maison Perumal at around Rs.10,000 (150 USD) is good value.

My Take on Maison Perumal

Would I stay at Maison Perumal again?
Most definitely, yes!

What did I love about Maison Perumal?
Genuinely helpful staff
Decor and Ambience
Courtyard Cafe

What did I hate about Maison Perumal?
Smell of sea food. But thats just a personal quirk. ?
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Address

58, Perumal Koil Street
Puducherry

Find it on Google Maps.
July 25, 2018
In Photos: The Valley of Flowers

The Valley of Flowers. A breathtakingly beautiful (literally!) high altitude meadow of alpine flowers in the Western Himalayas.

Accessible only through a trek route through the mountains, this valley is located in a transition zone that lies between the Zanskar Region of the Himalayas to the north and the Greater Himalayas to the south. Together with the Eastern and Western Himalayas on either side this valley is endowed with some extraordinary bio diversity.

From numerous restricted range bird species to highly threatened species of medicinal plants this high-altitude Himalayan valley isn’t just about stunning flowerscapes.

Together with the rugged wilderness of the Nanda Devi, these two National Parks are inscribed as an UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Commandeered over by India’s second highest mountain, Nanda Devi and reached through the world’s deepest gorge, Rishi Ganga, the Nanda Devi National Park is renowned for its spectacular topography. It is surrounded by glaciers and meadows, of which the Valley of Flowers is one.

Also Read: 7 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 2017

September 2, 2017
Road Tripping through Konaseema

Konaseema. The lush bucolic countryside of Coastal Andhra. ‘Kona’ for corner, this land wedged into a corner surrounded by water, is one of the most fertile deltas of Southern India. The Godavari river keeps you company, as you Road Trip through these idyllic coastal towns. Known for its beauty, Konaseema has been depicted extensively with its swaying coconut trees and green backwater canals.

But, how best do you enjoy this beauty? For it is no tourist destination like Kerala where houseboats abound aplenty on the backwaters.

So here I chose one town, rather a small city, Kakinada and put together a two day itinerary for a road trip through Konaseema, that include visits to beaches, ancient temples and artisan villages.

Window Views of Konaseema

Story goes.. There was once a powerful asura (demon) Tarakasura who was at war with the gods and thanks to a boon, he could only be killed by a son of Lord Shiva. So there began a battle between him and Kumaraswamy, Shiva’s younger son and Lord Ganesha’s brother. But, at every deadly blow, the rakshasa, Tarakasura would reform limb to limb from his cut off body parts. This power to reform came from a Shiva Linga that the demon wore. So the only way to destroy him was to break the lingam first. Eventually, there came to be five pieces of this Siva lingam and these fell in five different places in Andhra Pradesh. Temples were then built in those locations around the fragments. Those five ancient temples now constitute the Pancharamam.

& Kakinada happens to have two of those in driving distance.

Bhimaramam (at Samarlakota)

All the pancharamam temples are two storeyed stone temples for they are all home to massive Shivalingas.

To continue the story, the five fragments were installed and worshipped at five temples by the five gods, Indra, Surya, Chandra, Vishnu and Kumaraswamy. This one near Samarlakota was by Kumaraswamy himself. & the temple itself is beautiful, peaceful and not too crowded.

Draksharamam

Probably the biggest and definitely the most celebrated of the five is Draksharamam, a pancharamam and also a shakti peetham. This 10th century temple has a rich history of mythological legends associated with. It is even believed to be the site of Dakshayagnam and that Daksha’s daughter Sati is none other than the Goddess Manikyamba who is alongside Shiva in this temple. Making it one of the major asthadasa shakti peethams in the country.

Annavaram

In Annavaram is a small hill, Ratnagiri, which is home to the temple dedicated to Lord Satyanarayan Swamy. A form of Lord Vishnu, that all Hindus worship at weddings, housewarmings and all important social occasions in one’s life. Making this a pilgrimage centre that is second in popularity only to Tirupati.

Uppada

The famous handcrafted Jamdani silk sarees come from here. Need I say more?

READ: Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Uppada

& The Beach

Explorers Guide

Getting There: Every place on the itinerary is less than an hour and a half from Kakinada.
Distances from Kakinada:
Samarlakota – 15 kilometres
Draksharamam – 34 kilometres
Annavaram – 45 kilometres
Uppada – 16 kilometres
Highway Pit Stop: One. Foodcourt near Annavaram.
Best Time to Visit: Monsoons
Stay: Paradigm Sarovar Portico. Comfortable and centrally located.
Vegetarian Restaurants: Subbaya’s Hotel, Bhimas.
Bring Back: Kakinada Kaja

July 23, 2017
20 Photos to Inspire You to Visit Spiti Valley this Summer

Here are 20 Photos to Inspire you to visit Spiti Valley this Summer. Ladakh’s lesser known cousin.

Separated from the popular Kullu valley in Himachal Pradesh by the Rohtang Pass, this middle land between India and Tibet is home to some of the most stunning lakes and monasteries in the world.

Of which, the mythical Chandratal Lake is one. Roads to the lake open mid July. So, peak tourist season in the Spiti Valley (for lack of a better word, tourism is yet to catch on here the way it has in Ladakh) is July and August. A difficult terrain as is, the four months of summer is when this desert valley in the Himalayas is most accessible.

Road Trip through tricky terrains, along rocky roads.

Be amazed by the stark landscapes.

Or the ‘moonscape’ of this land, as it has come to be known.

Rediscover colour.

Vivid skies, cloud shadows, wild flowers et al.

Fall in love.

With the starry nights.

Find peace amidst the many Himalayan Monasteries.

Befriend the most adorable kids you will ever see!

Stay with the locals in a homestay and experience life, their way.

Get to know them. In their houses that are built to shelter them in the harsh winter months when they can only be indoors. Over soft, doughy bread which is but a variant of our regular Indian roti and sweet milky chai.

& of course, no trip to Spiti Valley is complete without a visit to the Chandratal Lake.

Did You Know? The Chandratal Lake reflects the colour of the sky. So the lake is a bright turquoise blue at sunrise and a lush serene green at sunset!

Besides, it isn’t just this one lake in Spiti Valley that is breathtaking. There are more.

Read Next: a Fortress, a Monastery & a Lake: Dhankar

Read More on Spiti:

Driving through Lahaul & Spiti
Where The Monasteries are.
The Road to Serenity: Chandratal

July 18, 2017
Grand Mosque: Walking on Reflections

Reflections, Reflections. Everywhere.
From the pristine white marble floors to the inky blue pools around them, its all about reflections.

The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque in Abu Dhabi, of course!

Because one is not grand enough. We have two.
One real & one a reflection.

Located in Abu Dhabi, the capital of United Arab Emirates and an hour and a half’s drive from Dubai, is The Sheikh Zayed Grand Mosque. Undoubtedly one of the grandest mosques today, it is visible from all the three bridges that connect the Abu Dhabi island city to the main land. & as you enter Abu Dhabi, it only takes ten minutes before this gloriously grandiose mosque in its pristine white and gold strikes a splendid welcome. Eighty two domes of Macedonian marble greet you from afar, and you know you have arrived at your destination.

The Grand Mosque, as it is popularly known, has to be one of the most iconic structures of the region. Also, probably one of the most photographed since it opened its doors to public in 2007. It is now the world’s second favourite landmark on Trip Advisor.

Why even Rihanna posed here for photographs and created quiet the stir!

Through a car park, a security building with screened-off ‘cover up’ rooms, and there you are out in the open. Where the glint of the sun reflecting off the glossy white surfaces gilded in gold is sure to catch you off guard.

Go closer and you see the sprawling complex of arches mirrored in the pools that surround the mosque. You are free to enter, wander around and take pictures to your hearts content as long as you maintain the decorum that one would accord a place of worship.

Once inside you are treated to a visual spectacle. Unending rows of crowned columns, a thousand to be precise. Ceilings into which Moroccan artwork is etched alongside verses from the Holy Quran. A courtyard, whose minarets stretch out to touch the sky and semi precious stones of hues ranging from the stunning blue of lapis lazuli to the blood red of agate come together with mother-of-pearl, in a floral motif on the floor. And the prayer hall brings it all to a stoic still, with shafts of natural light streaming in through the windows, onto handwoven carpets and massive Swarovski chandeliers that gleam with the forty kilos of 24-carat galvanised gold in them.

While the experience of taking in its beauty can only be described as overwhelming, it is the vision behind its founding father that makes the Sheik Zayed Grand mosque truly grand. It was for him, the first president of UAE, the late Sheikh Zayed bin Sultan Al Nahyan, an expression of Islam’s true religious values. One of the few mosques that is open to people of all faiths alike it is surely worth a visit.

Explorers Guide

Distance from Dubai: 125 Kilometres
Trip Duration: Half a day
Best Time To Visit: Sunset. The facade lighting has been designed to shift with the changing phases of the moon. Everyday the mosque lights up anew as the moon progresses from a crescent to a whole. So as night falls and colours fade, watch the whites transform into brilliant reflections mirrored in its pools.
Timings: Open to visitors from 9am to 10pm all week, except on Friday mornings when it is open to worshippers alone. During the Holy Month of Ramadan, the mosque is open only in the mornings, Saturday through Thursday.
Remember: It is recommended for both men and women to dress modestly. If found inappropriate, you may be asked to wear an abaya (for women) / kandura (for men) over your clothes.

PS: The mosque is very tourist friendly with a cafe on the grounds, free wifi and complimentary guided tours.

June 13, 2017
Town of Hymns: Manthani

Named after a Khiledar under the reign of Sikandar Jha during 1803 to 1823, Syed Karimuddin, Karimnagar is one district in Telangana, which has ancient places seeped in historic importance to both Hindus and Buddhists alike. The most popular amongst these is Manthani.

Home to the ruins of a Gautameswara Temple, Manthani is a timeless village from an era gone by.

On the banks of the river Godavari, it had once flourished as the seat of Vedic learning. Also referred to as Mantrapuri or The Town of Hymns it gets its name from the Sanskrit word Mantra Kutam, meaning House of Mantras.

It is also popularly believed that Manthani is home to a thousand Bramhin families, which is why it is also called the Sahasra Brahamana Gadapa i.e. a Thousand Brahmin’s Threshold. Little surprise then that though the temple in Manthani is in ruins today, overrun with a patchwork of undergrowth that is a brilliant-hued green, the town continues to be culturally significant for Hindus.

Work is underway to put back the beautiful stone temple of Manthani to how it once stood. Meanwhile there is a new, fully functional temple on the premises.

Explorers Guide

Getting There: The distance from Hyderabad to Karimnagar is around 164 kilometres, but if you take the NH44 via Medchal you will reach the town in less than two hours. Manthani is a further 64 kilometres from here.
Route: Once on the road by the village, ask around and get to the ‘temple on the banks of Godavari’. It can get a little tricky, because this one is not on Google Maps.
Best Time to Visit: In the rains.

Read Next: Lost in Time: Nagunur Ruins

Read More on Temples in Telangana:

Of Rocks and Hidden Temples: Armoor
A Song of Stone: Dichpally Ramalayam
South India’s City of Moksh: Alampur

April 26, 2017
Nagunur Ruins: Lost in Time

Less than three hours from Hyderabad, the district of Karimnagar in Telangana is peppered with numerous lesser-known forts and ancient ruins, making it the ideal day trip destination. Not yet over run with tourists, here you can happily explore at your own pace.

Home to a cluster of Kalyana and Kakatiya temple ruins, Nagunur is one such village in Karimnagar. Once the centre of the Kakatiya Empire, it is today but a tiny village lost in time. With these temples at its heart, it does not take but more than ten minutes to traverse through this entire village!

The most significant among these temples – from the 12^th century – is the Trikuta Temple built by the Chalukyas of Kalyani.

Though constructed in the same style as the Manthani temple, it is in much better shape today, with the three shrines dedicated to Lord Shiva showing evidence of continuing worship.

Explorers Guide

Getting There: Nagunur is 260 kilometers from Hyderabad and the drive via NH44 through Outer Ring Road will take around three and a half hours.
Best Time to Visit: Monsoons. With the rain clouds as a backdrop, these ancient temples look serenely beautiful.

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Read More on Temples in Telangana

Town of Hymns: Manthani
Of Rocks & Hidden Temples: Armoor
South India’s City of Moksh: Alampur
A Song of Stone: Dichpally Ramalayam

April 12, 2017
The Great Living Chola Temples – Vol I: Brihadeeswara Temple

In and around Thanjavur are The Great Living Chola Temples, three temple complexes dating back to the 11^th and 12^th centuries. Built by the Cholas, who were undoubtedly one of the most powerful monarchies of South India that ruled for over four and a half centuries, all of these ancient temples are ‘living temples’ – classified as such by UNESCO on their World Heritage List – in the sense that the pattern of worship and rituals established over a thousand years ago continue as is, to this day.

Thanjavur, mostly known for the Tanjore (Thanjavur) Paintings that are unique to this region, is home to the first of these Great Living Chola Temples. Locally known as the Big Temple, this is the Brihadeeswara Temple in Thanjavur. The grandest of the three.

As the region passed on from the Cholas to the Nayaks and then to the Marathas over the centuries, a few additions were made to the temple complex, from protective fort walls to murals and minor temples. One such are the beautiful frescos painted onto the ceiling of the Mandapam housing the massive 25 tonne monolithic Nandi, mount of Lord Shiva or Brihadeeswara, as he is in this temple.

& this particular mural is undoubtedly reminiscent of the famous Tanjore Paintings, all it needs is a little touch of gold!

Everything about this temple is big. The 20 feet Nandi, the 15 feet Dwarapalakas guarding the entrances, the 216 feet Vimana towering over the Sanctum Sanctorum that has to be two storeyed to house the huge Shiva Lingam (lingam form of the presiding deity).

The Vimana built over a base tier of two levels rises to dizzying heights, carrying on it an octagonal stone Shikhara which itself weighs 81 tonnes.

Ancient inscriptions refer to this Vimana as Dakshina Meru, implying it to be Mount Meru of the South or Maha Meru, Lord Shiva’s mountain abode.

It is said that a special ramp was constructed to carry the Shikhara up, to install on the Vimana, from a site six kilometres away and that more than a thousand elephants were required in the construction of this temple. Which is probably one of most the magnificent of Indian temples.

In fact, the city of Thanjavur itself was created with the deliberate intention of establishing it as a Bhakti centre. So, here is this impressively massive Big Temple at its heart and radiating out from it is the city, growing in concentric circuits starting from the inner quadrangle of the temple.

A colonnade of sandstone columns run all along the inner perimeter of the temple forming a circumambulatory path or Prakara. Though the Prakara itself dates back to the original construction, the 108 Shiva Lingas set against the stunning backdrop of beautiful murals painted on these stone walls are a 16th century addition.

The main temple itself occupies the rear half of the inner quadrangle, while two colossal Gopurams (gates) – Keralaanthagan & Rajarajan – into which are carved monolithic stone sculptures, lead the way.

Exemplifying the pure Dravidian style of architecture, these Chola Temples are not significant not just archaeologically but culturally as well. For it is believed that the Cholas built their temples not just as places for their people to get together and pray but to serve as epicentres of economic activity.

No trip to Thanjavur would be complete without witnessing these marvels of workmanship. The sheer size of these temples will cause you to wonder, muse on the scale at which affairs of state were once carried out!

The other two temples which together with the Big Temple form this unique group of living temples are the Brihadeeswara Temple at Gangaikonda Cholapuram and the Airavateswara Temple at Darasuram.

Explorers Guide

Getting There: Begin your day trip with the Brihadeeswara Temple in Thanjavur, drive on to the Airavateswara Temple, Darasuram, making a quick pitstop for lunch along the way on this 37 Kilometres stretch. Complete the circuit with the Brihadeeswara Temple, Gangaikonda Cholapuram. The 72 Kilometres drive from here, back to Thanjavur will take around 2 hours.

PS: Here is a super shaky video of a few of the brilliant murals in the Prakara.

Decided to add this here to the post, inspite of it being such a terrible attempt at shooting video because, I do want to share with you atleast a glimpse of the natural dye frescos that are such a fine example of ancient Indian artistry.

April 2, 2017
In the Nomadic Settlement of Puga

Snow crunched under my heavy boots as I stepped out of the heated SUV, into the freezing winter of Ladakh. It was -16 degrees and we had just arrived in Puga, a little nomadic village in the Changthang valley.

Located in the Eastern Ladakh Region of Jammu and Kashmir, Puga is a geothermal field and the site where the nomads of Changthang settle down for the winter and tend to their animals in the sub zero Himalayan temperatures.

This 12 kilometer stretch of Himalayan valley in the Changthang Wildlife Sanctuary has been identified as one of the important geo thermal sites in India by the Geological Survey. This winter home of the Changpas is a harsh and unpredictable land interspersed with geysers and hot springs and come winter it is blanketed in snow.

Changpas are Tibetan Nomads who follow the same migratory routes in Ladakh every year, only to settle in Puga for the four cold months. Staying in the same encampments, these ‘Nomadic Pastoralists’ bring their livestock to the same seasonal pastures every year.

The Changpas rear yaks, horses, sheep and also ofcourse the famous ‘pashmina’ goats. The geo thermal ice fields of Puga serve them well as winter pastures for the snow and its melt bring greenery to this high altitude cold desert.It is an important season for the nomads for January and February are the birthing months for their cattle and it is also when the pashmina fur grows.

Here is where we stopped for lunch, Puga, setting up kitchen in one of the stone walled corrals. By the time we had warmed ourselves with some Kashmiri Qawah, we were surrounded by curious eyes and runny noses. Little nomads were every where, shy but interested in the newcomers all bundled up in their down jackets.

“That’s my dog, see, he is a nomad dog” said Tenzin in hesitant but clear English, perceptive to the point that she knows that we regular people would find anything ‘nomadic’ fascinating.

Hanle, which is 115 kilometers from Puga is where she goes to school. Sumdho is the closest town though, we had passed it on our way here and I had naturally assumed this is where these little ones in this remote corner of India, who spoke such good English would go to school.

Only in conversing with her did I realise just how far across the Himalayas the Changpas traversed for livelihood.

The Changthang Wildlife Sanctuary is spread across India and Tibet and historically the Changpas of Ladakh would migrate with their herds into Tibet. But with how things are politically today, this is no longer an option for them.

Explorers Guide

Getting There: Puga is at a distance of 180 kilometers from Leh, the largest and the one town in the region that has all the amenities that one is used to otherwise. Read network coverage. It would be wiser to drive to Chumathang though, stay overnight and do a day trip to Puga from there on. Chumathang to Puga is less than 40 kilometers but the route will take a good 4 hours, so start early!

Stay: Chumathang Hot Springs Guest House. They have heaters in some of their rooms & that sure is luxury for a winter in Ladakh.

PS: Know a friend who would love to explore this non touristy side of Ladakh? Then, please do share this post and spread the love!

Read Next: Little Ones of Ladakh

Read More on Ladakh:

5 Reasons Why You Should Travel to Ladakh Off-Season
Celebrating Life & Beyond
Royal Ruins: Shey Palace
In The Realm of The Passes: Khardung La

March 4, 2017
Gandipet Lake. Where is it?!

20 Kilometers off the city, on the outskirts, is the Osman Sagar Lake/Reservoir. Generally referred to as Gandipet, this lake used to be the preferred haunt of youngsters. Though I am not sure if it still is the place where kids sneak off to from their school or college, it sure has turned out to be a popular spot for those same kids who have now grown up to hold software jobs in this IT Hub that is Hyderabad.

Well it isn’t so much ‘outskirts’ either now, with its connectivity to Gachibowli-Hitech City and all the urbanisation that is happening in and around it.

But, this makes it one of the most popular destination for cycling enthusiasts in the city today.

& that leaves us with “Where is The Lake?”

We get there and we see nothing. Yes, nothing but the heavy fencing, barricades and cops. So I walk up to the fence for a closer look hoping to find something that I can photograph, document.

and??

Well, inspite of there being only a trace of the lake that once was, the walk leading up to it is so beautiful and tranquil, specially so on a rainy morning that, that in itself makes for a pleasant way to slow things down right here in the city.

So, a curious case of Afforestation and Urbanisation then?!

Discover other Lakes in Hyderabad:

The Lost Pump House: Fox Sagar
The Flamingo Story: Ameenpur
A Lake in Resort Land: Shamirpet

July 31, 2016
Abseiling in The Blue Mountains

Abseiling in The Blue Mountains was one of my most memorable adventures in Australia – besides surfing at Bondi beach, of course – and also more my kind. The Greater Blue Mountains World Heritage Area is the ideal scenic weekend getaway from Sydney.

With the town of Katoomba as the base, you can spend all day in the Blue Mountains walking through the valley floor among forests that transport you to ‘Jurassic Park’, hiking back up to look out over the hazy blue forest (which gives this national park its name), all the while discovering waterfalls and rock formations along the way.

Of these, The Three Sisters sandstone turrets is the most iconic.

The Legend of The Three sisters has it that a witch doctor, Tyawan had three daughters Meenhi, Wimlah and Gunnedoo who accidentally anger the aboriginal mythical creature Bunyip, living down in the valley. To protect the sisters from the Bunyip, Tyawan then uses a magic bone to turn them to stone and himself turns into a Lyre Bird. But, in the process drops the magic bone and you see the Lyre Bird rummaging through the valley floor even today, it is said in search of this very magic bone.

In consequence, it is recognised as a place of cultural importance for the aboriginal people.

We were there for the weekend, put up at the YHA and spent a day hiking through the forest trails and up the Giant Stairway and another abseiling and sheltering under a cave watching the rain come in as the clouds closed in on us . While the evenings were spent unwinding in Katoomba. It was the perfect mix of excitement and idyllic.

I had never heard of ‘abseiling’ till I was in Sydney. Rappelling yes, but not Abseiling. Coming from the German term Abseilen for ‘to rope down’, it is a mountaineering technique where you use ropes and a belay to descend a rock face/cliff too steep to descend on foot.

As a beginner you start with 30 feet and then go on to a cliff with less foothold and more of a drop and then the final 60 feet sheer drop.

& trust me when I say you will get high on it.

For some one who loves the mountains and exploring, this was actually special, with that extra edge of adventure and I sure am glad that I did it when I could.

Imagine an escapade like that with a view like this!

April 8, 2016
Standing Still: Moazzam Jahi Market

Named after Moazzam Jah Bahadur, son of the seventh and last Nizam of Hyderabad, The Moazzam Jahi Market is built entirely in stone.

Modelled after the ‘Universal Stores’ of the West, construction of this popular landmark began in 1933 by the City Improvement Board, whose President was Prince Moazzam Jah. Besides being a centrally located traders centre, it was supposed to have housed the fruit market that sent fruit to the Nizam living in the Falaknuma Palace then.

On the completion of the market in 1935, a clock was installed on the Minar facing the main street crossing. Today, this Clock Tower is iconic in the Old City of Hyderabad.

The architecture of this triangular granite structure is striking in its antiquity. Which is what probably prompted Nikon to conduct a photowalk here, the first Sunday of February. It is also on the HMDA’s Heritage Buildings List.

With remarkable archways, spiral staircases, colourful doors, flocks of pigeons and a flurry of activity from the 100+ shopkeepers setting up shop and scattering grain for the birds to feed on, the courtyard is the most integral part of this building.

81 years and this market has stood still. Not much has changed but the generations of shopkeepers and the kids that stop to binge on the “famous” handmade fruit icecream.

March 5, 2016
Heart of Hyderabad: Old City

Now that I am working on the 52 Photowalks Project, I am constantly on the lookout for heritage walks and photo walks happening in the city. Seek Sherpa’s Galliyon Ke Raja was my first such.

It was great fun. Like walking around the Streets of Old City looking for subjects was not enough of an out-of-my-comfort-zone moment, there was this whole ‘Street Photography’ tag attached to it too! But, luckily for me, it was a great first. I even got to learn quite a bit on controlling the camera and understanding lenses better from the very helpful and nice ‘sherpa’ conducting the micro-tour (as they call it).

Now, no more words. I believe and hope that this time around, just the pictures are enough to tell a tale.

February 27, 2016
Of Sunny Days & Brisk Breezes

Hyderabad’s International Kite Festival found its way to a larger venue this year – away from the hustle and bustle of Necklace Road – the Aga Khan Academy near the airport.

Makara Sankranti is an important Indian Harvest Festival celebrated across the country. This day marks the return of the sun after the cold winter and is a harbinger of the coming harvest season for farmers.

Also known as Pongal in some states of the South, it gets its name from the dish that is made this day. Rice from the first harvest of the year is cooked in milk that has come to a ‘pongu’, meaning boil and sweetened with jaggery or sugar.

In Gujarat, where the biggest Kite Festival of the country takes place, it is Uttarayan. How ever many be the names that this festival is called by, the one common thread that weaves through it is the ‘flying of kites’.

India is of many religions and this is one of the celebrations that brings together, them all. For, it is believed that the custom of flying kites was brought to India by the Persian muslims!

Yes it does not make up for the nostalgia of that simple childhood joy. Of stringing up your kite with manja (thread coated with the tiniest shards of glass), running around with your spool on the terrace as you try to ‘cut’ as many kites as you can and then counting your loot at the end of it all.

But, this 2 day Kite Festival does bring to you an array of different kinds of kites from across the globe.

It is usually right after the sun rises and before the sun sets that one flies kites while it is still pleasant and the sun isn’t too sharp, but it is still breezy enough for the kites to take to the sky.

& with the setting sun, out goes the light and the International Kite Festival 2016 of Hyderabad draws to a close.

February 5, 2016
The Lost Pump House

I was born in Hyderabad, and I have lived here most of my life. But, it wasn’t until a year ago, when a friend mentioned Fox Sagar Lake, did I even become aware of its existence. He hadn’t heard of it either, till his work for a magazine helped us discover this Lake.

& This lake is beautiful. Period.

Hyderabad is known for its Hussain Sagar and The Buddha Statue there. The Hussain Sagar has an iconic status that it shares with Charminar and now, Hitec City. But, in reality, it is an extremely polluted lake that stinks up the air! Inspite of this, being the only water body in an otherwise hot and crowded city, it draws in crowds by the hundreds and even thousands on holidays. I, like everyone else, have been drawn to it too.

On the other hand, is The Fox Sagar Lake. In the city, but wide, expansive and cheerful. You can still see buildings, but at a distance.

Though not so popular with the locals, it definitely is a hit with the birds! I wasn’t really expecting to see so many birds of such varied species. Truth be told, I did not even know what to expect. All we did was follow the route traced out on Google Maps!!

But, what adds to the charm of this Lake and makes it so special is the antiquated Pump House built on it.

Nearly 120 years old, the lake and pump house were apparently built by the Nizam of Hyderabad as part of his program for bringing in water to the city. There is even an 1897 inscribed on its dome! :D

You reach the pump house by a stretch of narrow elevated road, which is more of a dirt trail sloping off on either side with thorny shrubs as barricades. So, the only way to reach it is by foot or by a bike. When we had gone there do a recce of this place, we were driving as suggested by google maps and we were already on this road with no where else to go but ahead! Some careful manoeuvering did get us there, but I wouldn’t suggest this.

Walking is more fun anyway, for then you notice more.

The Pump House is a beautiful structure which also creates gorgeous, intricate shadow patterns with the sun’s rays. You would not be able to resist clicking pictures of it!

Waiting – literally – just around the corner is a view just as picturesque if not more. You can go around the ledge for a beautiful view of the lake and the breathtaking quality of it is enhanced not only by the absolute vertical drop from there, but the cool breeze blowing in your face.

Well, finding not just water but in a place that is relatively un-intruded upon by man, plus the bonus of a cool tranquil breeze is a very rare occurrence here, so, I am sorry if I go a little overboard with my adjectives!!

PS: This fellow here, gets a special mention for just being so cute! He led us to the lake after ascertaining the ‘goodness’ of each of us.

January 2, 2016
on a slow boat to Arabia

Dubbed ‘The Arabian Resort of Dubai’, Madinat Jumeirah is a luxury resort that is an experience, complete in itself.

This wide-spread resort has over 3kms of waterways and a boat ride in the traditional Arabain Dhow along these is a pleasant way to spend a quiet evening. More so, towards the last few months of the year when Dubai is relatively cooler.

Quite self sufficient in itself, this resort boasts of housing over 40 restaurants, traditional summer houses, grand ballrooms and even an entertainment centre of its own! All set alongside a private beach, with a view of the Burj Al Arab.

I did miss going on to beach for that now famous shot of the Burj Al Arab, but the experience was lovely nonetheless.

& for a dose of some local retail therapy, the ‘Souk’ here is the answer. A ‘Souk’ is the traditional bazaar of the Middle East and The Souk Madinat Jumeirah is a pretty faithful recreation of it, with its winding streets and wooden archways.

You can get your name written in sand of myriad colours. and, watch the artist at work, bringing to shape your vision!

This is also where, I finally met The Elephant Parade. :D

I had read about them a couple of years ago in an in-flight magazine of an Asian airline, but couldn’t really remember the name, except for their beautiful hand painted elephants and the cause that they stood for. When I did finally see the elephants, I almost went – ‘Hey, I know you’ !!

Read Next: Walking on Reflections

December 26, 2015
Islands of Singapore: Pulau Ubin

Just off the coast of mainland Singapore is Pulau Ubin, a boomerang shaped island, meaning ‘Granite Island’.

This was once home to thousands of settlers dependent on granite quarrying. Though abandoned since the 1970s and reclaimed by nature, these quarries remain a picturesque relic of the past.

Now, the few remaining villagers subsist on farming and fishing.

The fact that, this is the one last bit of the heavily urbanised Singapore that still retains its rustic village ways is what makes this a popular day trip destination.

You can go exploring this quiet island on foot or by cycling along the many bike trails. Stopping along the way for a birds eye view of the luxuriant tree canopy and flourishing bird life from the viewing tower.

A cape, surrounded by wetlands rich in bio-diversity, lies at the tip of Pulau Ubin. This is Chek Jawa and its popularity precedes it. So much so that, we were not the only ‘tourists’ who had packed a picnic lunch to eat at the lookout-jetty on the boardwalk.

& The view from here is made even more interesting with the flights taking off and landing at the Changi airport! :)

The Coastal Boardwalk runs along the coast for almost a kilometer and leads you through the mangroves to the jetty right in the middle of the Straits of Johor.

Though made of concrete, this boardwalk is built to look like wood so the effect is not jarring but goes well with the unspoilt feel of the island.

The Island of Pulau Ubin boasts of a variety of ecosystems in and as one. Coastal Forests, Mangroves, Seagrass Lagoons, Tidal Flats – both mud & sand and Coral rubbles. Where, even rocky shores and sandy beaches co-exist.

Mangroves – Protectors of shorelines.

More than even the ‘exploring on a cycle’, it was the walking through these shady mangroves that I enjoyed doing the most on this island.

May be it was my coming from the country of the Sundarbans. Or my counting The Hungry Tide and Midnights Children amongst my favourite books. I admit that ‘mangroves’ did hold a certain fascination for me. Even before I ever saw them for real.

But the experience of walking through a mangrove forest, where the sun-rays play hide and seek with you, as you hear and feel the distant breeze from the surrounding sea, definitely heightened that fascination.

Found in calm waters of low salinity, the Nipah Palm is the only true mangrove palm. Like the other palms, it is tapped for its sap that is fermented to make alcohol. While its mature fronds are used for thatching roofs & are also woven into mats & baskets. Locally though, its most recognizable use is its edible seed.

Only a short boat ride away, this island has a lot to offer and is totally worth the time!

December 19, 2015
a Fortress, a Monastery & a Lake: Dhankar

Meet Dhankar. A village, a Fortress, a Monastery & a Lake.

Above the Dhankar Village, sit the Fortress and the Monastery, watching over the confluence of the Spiti and Pin Rivers.

This spectacular setting is what gives the place its name, Dhankar, meaning ‘Fort on a Cliff’.

The village of Dhankar lies somewhere between Kaza and Tabo in Spiti Valley, Himachal Pradesh. At a height of 12,774 feet, looking over the village is the Dhankar Gompa, built like a fort, just like the Ki and Thiksey Monasteries.

Looking over the monastery is the Dhankar Fortress, which served as the traditional home of the royal family when Dhankar was the capital of the Spiti Valley Kingdom in around the 17th century.

and, around 1.5km away from here is the Dhankar Lake.

Though the hike uphill felt more like 10kms, it did have me going over and over in my head “I climbed a mountain!!” :D.

(the views as I climbed..)

By the time I got to the lake, I felt like I had finally achieved something for the first time in my life!

Another first at a Himalayan Lake. The other being my first ever ‘night in a tent’ at the Chandratal Lake, amidst the Himalayas. and, also that it was my first time in the Himalayas!

Which is why these 2 lakes are my Top2 in The Lahaul & Spiti Valley and till today remain my most memorable ones.

Read Next: Where The Monasteries Are

Read More on Spiti Valley:

20 Photos to Inspire You to Visit Spiti Valley this Summer
Driving through Lahaul & Spiti
The Road to Serenity: Chandratal

December 12, 2015
Royal Ruins: Shey Palace

On the road from Leh to Thiksey, atop a hill, sits The Shey Palace and Monastery. It is by far the most picturesque of monasteries in India. Little surprise then that it was once the summer palace of the Kings of Ladakh.

The views that the Shey Palace commands are like no other. Despite the persistently thick cloud cover that dogged us through our week in Ladakh, it made for some beautiful pictures.

All you need to do is pick your vantage point!

It is said that the lake right across the road, once mirrored the entire palace, lending its name ‘Shey‘ – meaning mirror – to the palace and the village.

Though overrun now, it still is a thing of beauty and joy.

& it is not just the setting, but the Shey Palace in itself which is stunning. The wooden accents to the doors and windows only add to the beauty of the facade and make for striking pictures.

Here, it all comes together in a picture window framed in wood. :)

The monastery in the palace boasts of a large Buddha statue gilded in copper, brass and gold that spans across the two storeys of the split-level temple. So, you spend a good few hours not just paying your respects at The Temple of Sakyamuni Buddha, but also climbing around and exploring the hillside ruins in the crisp fresh mountain breeze.

There are chortens and stupas, prayer flags and wheels at every turn & corner.

Read More on Ladakh:

Little Ones of Ladakh
Celebrating Life & Beyond
In The Realm of The Passes: Khardung La
5 Reasons You Should Travel to Ladakh Off-Season
In The Nomadic Settlement of Puga

December 6, 2015
Where The Monasteries Are

I have always valued the Hindu rituals growing up and there is no denying that. But, that does not hold me back from aspiring to one day appreciate Buddhism in all its beauty.

My regard for this religion comes not just from the solace that their monasteries have always granted me, right from the first time that I entered one in my troubled times to every single time I do go back, but also because of how the people of this faith just are. I am yet to come across an agitated or envious buddhist! Qualities, unfortunately, that are so common and everyday otherwise.

By now, everyone reading this blog knows of my eternal love for the Himalayas and I believe there is no better home to Buddhism. Which brings me to this blog post, Where The Monasteries Are.

KAZA GOMPA

Kaza is the main town in the Lahaul & Spiti District of Himachal Pradesh and usually acts as the pitstop for most of your exploring in this district.

Though the Monastery (Gompa) in Kaza is not counted amongst the “important” monasteries of the region, it does not lack in beauty or tranquility.

And, for me, monasteries have always been places of quietude, which immediately fill you with a sense of peace & calm.

So, there it is, flagging off this list of Himalayan Monasteries.

KI GOMPA

The little village of Ki is about 12km from Kaza.

& sitting atop a hill, overlooking this village is the largest Buddhist Gompa & Learning Centre of Spiti.

It is also one of the most frequented and photographed in the region. Its popularity stems from how this monastery has been built like a fort in the Pasada Style of architecture.

Once inside, you realise that it it is not just the monastery nestled among the mountains that makes a pretty picture but that the views from it just as scenic.

TABO GOMPA

Tabo was not on the agenda of the group I was travelling with. But, I was lucky enough to make some friends along the way who were just as keen on visiting Tabo, despite the ‘no photography rule’. So, after some trifling deliberation, we finally managed to convince the driver of one of the SUVs to drive us to Tabo, while the rest headed back to Kaza & I can gladly say it was one of the best decisions on this trip!

Tabo is a small valley 48km southeast of Kaza. The Tabo Gompa founded in 996AD is said to be the oldest continuously functioning monastery in India & it being declared a UNESCO Heritage Site has been in the offing for a while now. Its claim to fame though, ironically, is that it was the setting of a bollywood movie in 2003!

The mud-brick wall temple complexes of the Tabo Gompa house some of the most exquisite Indo-Tibetan art that I have ever seen. The murals not only hold religious & aesthetic significance but are important historically as well, as a remnant of the early buddhist culture.

Here in & rightly so, comes the no photography rule. But, there is so much to see and discover even around the Gompa in Tabo that I for once am glad it is a non-photographer zone!!

The main stupa outside the temple complex.

The hillside caves up above the village and the monastery is where the monks used to live once. It is now an Archaeological Survey of India protected site.

November 16, 2015