Map In My Pocket

Tag: Photography

Dichpally Ramalayam: A Song of Stone

One of the oldest and the most renowned temple in Nizamabad is the Ramalayam in Dichpally. This 14th century temple dedicated to the Ram Avtaar of Lord Vishnu is also called the Indhoor Khajuraho and Khilla Ramalayam.

Sitting on a hillock the Dichpally Ramalayam offers one, sweeping views of the quaint little town of Dichpally and is undoubtedly a worthy vantage point to enjoy the early morning breeze.

This also makes it a picturesque location for taking panoramic shots, with an almost submerged ancient mandapam just about visible in a clear lake on one side and little brick houses with red roofs lined along its bank on the other.

While steps up the hillock lead you through an entrance typical of a fort complete with a fortification wall all around the temple grounds, which is probably why the locals now call this temple Khilla Ramalayam.

Considered to be a fine example of the Kakatiya’s architectural splendour, this stone structure of black and white basalt has sculptures on its pillars that are reminiscent of the ones on the famous Khajuraho temples, bestowing on it the moniker of Indhoor Khajuraho, indicative of a time when Nizamabad was Indhoor, named so after a Rashtrakuta King.

These carvings based on Vatsayana’s Kamasutra were so remarkable that even the name of this town traces its origins to it. These stone sculptures were called ‘Gicchu Bommalu’ by the villagers of that time, meaning pictures of Gicchu, the Sanskrit word for romance and beauty. Over time the village of gicchu, Gicchu Palle came to be Dichpally.

In the 13th century when Ala Ud Din Khilji conquered Nizamabad, there began a trend where Hindu temples were not allowed to be built, so did the construction of this temple stop midway and it was only many years later that the idols of Ram, Sita and Hanuman were installed here. The temple as you see it today was only complete in 1949 when steps leading up the hillock and a subway connecting it to another popular temple in Nizamabad were built under the stewardship of Gajavada Chinnaya.

Legend has it that in the Tretayuga, when right after meeting Hanuman for the first time, Lord Ram was on his way to wage war on Ravan, he stopped here on this hill and stayed a fortnight and it is to mark this that a Ramalayam was built here.

Explorers Guide

Distance from Hyderabad: 160 Kilometers
Trip Duration: Half Day
Route: Take the NH44 from Hyderabad to Nizamabad. Around 15 kilometers before you reach the town of Nizamabad get off the NH7 to reach Dichpally.
Getting There: The Ramalayam is the biggest and most popular place in town and the wider roads in town leading here are an evidence to that. Follow the sign posts and soon you will spot the ‘temple on the hillock’.

Read Next: Of Rocks and Hidden Temples: Armoor

Read More on Other Ramayana Places:

Ammapalli: Tollywood’s Favourite Temple!

November 23, 2016
Have I found the perfect partner for my Road Trips?

150 Kilometers, 20 Cars & 60 Bloggers.

The weekend gone by has been one like no other.

I was at the Preview Drive of Tata Motors‘ upcoming 4 wheel drive HEXA. Pitched as a ‘lifestyle’ vehicle, the Tata Hexa is surely one hell of a ride. Well try as I might, I fail in finding words that can be as apt but sombre!

Starting off with an exclusive product presentation, everything from the cupcakes to the route we were to take the next day was designed to deliver the perfect #HexaExperience.

& given that Tata Motors has a brilliant car to back that promise of an experience, the journey was super fun!

[youtube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rx4m514NefQ&w=798&h=598]

So, come step into the Tata Hexa.

and we will set off into the sunrise for a ..

..Road Trip.

The Tata Hexa doesn’t just look powerful, it actually is. We reached Ananthgiri Hills, a good 75kms away, in an hour inspite of the photo breaks we took. So that we had more than enough time for the change over to the Automatic variant and hob nob with fellow bloggers over coffee while we waited for our cars to get all squeaky clean again!

& still be back in time for the Offroad Experience, which in truth was nothing less than a real time roller coaster ride. Hand on heart Tata Motors won me over with this one.

What I love about the Tata Hexa

? Off road capabilities like no other.

I can go on and on with this one. The car has been programmed to electronically stabilise itself during tricky manoeuvres on terrains of all kind. The car can also intelligently sense from the pressure applied on the brakes and the throttle release if the driver panics and automatically refills the brake lines electronically to keep vehicle stability while optimising braking distance. For this demonstration, sitting in the car experiencing first handaggressive braking at fast speeds, all that was noticeable to me was the sound of the engine revving and the dust flying! So bye bye nose dives and skids. But, the feature I loved the most was the Hill Descent Control, push a button and leave it to the car to take you downhill. No clutch, brake, accelerator. Period.

? View from the driver’s seat!

Dont blame me if I like looking down on everything else on the road. 19 inch alloy wheels + seat height.

? 10 JBL speakers with a Harman system.

Besides, Kala Chasma on full volume and not one villager stared at us at the railway crossing where we were stuck for a good 25 minutes! & yes, you would rather listen to your favourite music in your car now.

? Dynamic Mode in the Manual.

Adrenaline Pumped, they call the car and I couldn’t phrase it any better. Choose this mode when you want maximum power and acceleration. Yay, Road trip.

? Navi Maps App.

Now you don’t need mobile network or data connectivity to navigate on your next road trip as an explorer.

? Straight line shift in the Automatic.

Shifting gears and modes has never been smoother. Upshift when you crave an adrenaline rush and leave it to the Hexa to downshift for you when needed, all in a quick and smooth one flick.

& What I don’t

..because, I am still me and cannot just like everything.

? The bucket seats in the second row of the Automatic. I prefer the bench seats in the Manual.

? Would love a one touch return to the map, instead of having to ‘navigate’ through all the available apps to get back.

Here is wishing Tata Motors all the success it truly deserves on the Hexa, when it launches later this year.

Credits:

The Video of the Tata Hexa making a splash was shot by fellow blogger Giridhar Chandrasekar of Phonelicious.

This #HexaExperience was made possible thanks to Indiblogger.

Read Next: Road Tripping through Karimnagar

October 27, 2016
The Goat Village: Take me away!

Have you ever longed to escape to a place that would take you far far away from the madding crowd? the hustle and bustle of your city life?? Then, The Goat Village in Tehri, Uttarakhand ought to be on your travel bucket list!

The Nag Tibba Trek is today one of the most popular treks in the Garhwal region of the Himalayas and is fast catching on as the ideal weekend trek from Delhi due to the fact that it is only 57 kms from Mussorie and also, of course, for the thrill of scaling the highest peak of the Lesser Himalayas. Believed to be the seat of Nag Devta or the Hindu Snake God, the Serpent’s Peak or Nag Tibba as it is called, is home to a shrine to the god who lends this Himalayan peak its name. With one of the nearby villages as a base, the scenic trek through the Himalayan forest to this temple can be done in a day or two, depending on the route one takes.

& Half way up this trek from the village of Pantwari is The Goat Village.

Of the many initiatives by The Green People to revive abandoned villages in Uttarakhand and encourage reverse migration of farmers, The Goat Village is one. A farm retreat of traditionally curated Garhwal homes built only from wood, mud and slate that chips and falls off the mountains.

So, here is this little village of wooden cottages nestled in the Himalayas, where to touch the clouds all you have to do is extend your hand and where there is no electricity or Wi-Fi that you end up doing anything but checking your phone every few minutes for updates!

This is where I was invited to recently to experience this ‘Happier Himalayan Village’ first hand and I came away from probably one of the most wonderful trips I have taken in a while. So much so that, when I sit down to blog about it, I notice a sudden slight tinge of the dreamy in my writing style!

Rooms

Ever dreamt of a log cabin on a far away mountain, while you curled up in your cosy corner reading your favourite fairy tale??

Wood, Stone, some Wild Flowers.

& yes, a Window Seat!

Polyhouse + Cafeteria

My camera loves this Polyhouse +Cafeteria!

All that wood and glass, with the fog just out of sight and the cold mountain air creeping in. Neither could I stop myself then, from clicking photos every time I was in there nor can I stop myself now, from reminiscing and missing the time spent there.

Oh yes, and those cherry tomatoes right there. :)

Food

Home grown. Organic. Fresh.

Bread made from Raagi (finger millet – the traditional equivalent of Oats), Tea flavoured with the wild mint that grows on the mountain side..need I say more?

With this initiative, The Green People are not just offering an interesting way for travellers to escape the mundane and a chance to experience a Himalayan Village in the most earthy way possible, but are also bringing development to these remote areas in a way that the locals themselves are involved – from getting trained in the hospitality sector before they start work at any of The Goat Village properties in the mid and lower Himalayan region, to farming and goat rearing at the village itself to procuring the farm produce from other locals to be promoted under The Green People’s brand of Organic Himalayan Products, Bakri Chaap.

So, if off beat places call to you and you are someone who wants a bit of adventure in your holiday, the trek to Nag Tibba with a stop over at The Goat Village would be just about perfect.

Also, the “no electricity” living takes this experience to a whole new level and this little fellow here chomping on the sunlight – to charge – just stole my heart!

Explorers Guide

Getting There: The nearest airport is the Jolly Grant Airport at Dehradun from where Pantwari is a 6 hour drive. From here on, it is a 40 minute drive and a 2 hour trek up the mountain.

Read Next: In Pictures: The Valley of Flowers

October 16, 2016
Ladakh Festival: Celebrating Life & Beyond.

The Ladakh Festival is an annual week-long gala organised by the Tourism Department of the Jammu & Kashmir Government every September in Leh and its surrounding villages. Local communities along with the district administrations of Leh come together to showcase the culture and traditions of this land of stunning landscape to the visiting tourists, for after all the region survives and thrives on tourism.

This year starting off with an opening ceremony in Leh today, it is on till the 26^thof this month. I was there for the Ladakh Festival 2015 and Ladakh is not the cards for me this year – atleast for now – so here I am reliving those memories through last year’s photos

According to the rich heritage of this former Himalayan Kingdom, every important occasion in a person’s lifetime is marked by feasting and dancing to folk songs, be it a birth, marriage, the beginning of a new year or even the start of a season when the flowers begin to bloom. The most popular ones though are the Monastic Festivals celebrated to commemorate the founding of a monastery. What with Ladakh having found a place in every Photographer’s heart and Travel Enthusiast’s bucket list, these festivals only seem to grow in scale every year. As summer comes to an end, both the festivals and the tourists begin to go back to easier terrains and the Ladakh Festival comes at just such a time, tempting you to stay back just a while longer.

On the first day of the festival, all the locals participating and performing at the cultural events in the opening ceremony start off in a procession, dressed in traditional attire. Some of who even bring out the rare antique jewellery, headgear, jackets and such that have been in their family for generations and which cannot now be duplicated by the modern day artisans. As these groups of local leaders, tribal men and women, artisits and school children weave their way through the Leh market to the Polo Grounds where the inaugural ceremony of the festival is held, you can only be spell bound by the colour you see and the beauty of happy locals against the stark backdrop of their desert landscape.

Also Read: Little Ones of Ladakh

At the Polo grounds, it is time to settle down and take in the show that is being put on not just by the natives of the region but also by those Tibetan refugees who have made India their home.

Experience their way of life and age old traditions through the masked rituals, folk songs & music and even through the reenactment of royal court dances.

As most of their festivals celebrate life, besides seeking peace and warding off evil, the performance to their folk song of Marriage is the most intriguing. Marriage ceremonies in Ladakh begin with the boy’s family sending Chaang or the local beer to the girl’s family, from when start the many events that culminate in the wedding feast. One such ceremony is the Nyopjhol, where Nyopas i.e the bridegroom’s friends go to the brides house to fetch her. This ceremony depicted in dance form at the festival is a sight to see, as spectacularly dressed ladakhis in the ceremonial costume of the Nyopas – who play a very important role all the through the wedding – dance to the Marriage Song in accompaniment to the music played on the traditional instruments, Daman and Surna.

The cultural programmes in Leh end by afternoon, after which the festival then moves on to other parts of Ladakh. All in all, the Ladakh Festival is a wonderful way to experience the culture and heritage of this region, so if you are planning a trip to Ladakh do take into account this festival!

Read Next: Of Sunny Days & Brisk Breezes

September 20, 2016
Road Tripping through Karimnagar

I had just upgraded my gear during the week – to a Full Frame Camera and a Wide Angle Lens from my first DX format Nikon Kit and my itchy feet just couldn’t wait for the weekend to get away from the hustle and bustle of the city and test it.

I love road trips. Not only do they add a sense of adventure to one’s photo making journeys but they also make for that perfect blend of individual and social moments, a time to reflect as well as bond. Be it the feel of the road slipping from underneath the tyres as you listen to music or the feel of the wind in your face as you simply contemplate life to when you are stopping along the highway for some not so healthy but interesting food.

& when I joined hands with CEAT my Sunday only got that much sweeter and a Road Trip to Karimnagar seemed to be answer! A two and half hour drive from Hyderabad, this district in Telangana is peppered with numerous forts and ancient ruins, making it the ideal day trip destination for some exploration and a bit of photography both.

So, here I am, chronicling my road trip adventure for CEAT Tyres in association with BlogAdda.

Stop 1: Molangur Fort

Built atop a massive granite hillock during the reign of Prathapa Rudra of the Kakatiya Dynasty, this once important fort is today nothing but a ruin listed on the archaeological department’s protected sites. The large scale granite quarrying happening in and around this fort is only adding to the structural damage of this site and ruins of the palaces and the megalithic burials are barely discernible.

Stop 2: Elgandal Fort

On the banks of the river Godavari, sitting atop a hill in the 800 year old village of Elgandal is this ancient fort on the verge. Built by Zafar Ud Dowla in 1754 AD, the Teen Minar of the Alamgir Mosque are the most striking feature of this stronghold that has passed through five dynasties over time.

Stop 3: Manthani Ruins

Another timeless village to have flourished on the banks of Godavari in Karimanagar is Manthani. Home to the ruins of the Gautameswara Temple, it also referred to as Mantrapuri i.e The Town of Hymns. Work is underway to put back this beautiful stone temple to how it once stood and meanwhile there is a new, fully functional temple on the premises.

Read: Town of Hymns: Manthani

Stop 4: Nagunur Ruins

Right at the centre of the village of Nagunur is a cluster of Kalyana and Kakatiya temple ruins. The most significant of which is the Trikuta Temple built by the Chalukyas of Kalyani. Though built in the same style as the Manthani temple, this is in much better shape with the three shrines dedicated to Lord Shiva showing evidence of continuing worship.

Read: Lost in Time: Nagunur Ruins

Other stops on this trip were the town of Karimnagar and Dhulikatta. But, by the time we reached the Buddhist site, there was a deluge and the 2 km walk along the dirt path through the fields was ruled out. Though it might seem that monsoons played spoilt sport, I have no regrets for if not now there is always the next road trip. :)

& with the setting sun behind us, having covered over 550 Kms on this CEAT adventure, we were already homeward bound just in time for some coffee.

Read Next: Road Tripping through Konaseema

August 15, 2016
Its a small, small world.

When a photographer friend invited me to a free Macro Photography lesson along with the chance to try a new camera, some lenses and extension tubes et al, I was not going to pass up the opportunity. But, to be honest the thought of getting myself out of bed early on a Sunday morning just to go to the Zoo wasn’t really that exciting a plan.

I had been to the Nehru Zoological Park when I was seven, and my dad was taking my cousins who were visiting Hyderabad and me. But from the happy little otter pair that greeted us to the photos that i got of the creepy crawlies, I came away happy and content and with yet another lens added to my wish list!

PS: This friend of mine is doing a Workshop for Kids on 14th Aug, for which this was a trial run. So, do check it out if you are interested and take my word for it that it was a super fun experience hunting for these fellows. :) & Macro Photography is surely one tough task master when it comes to patience.

Read Next: Into The Jungle: Ubbalamadugu

July 18, 2016
Bidar: The City of Whispering Tombs

Of the 61 listed Monuments of Bidar, 30 are tombs. Little wonder then that Bidar is known as The City of Whispering Tombs!

135 Kms from Hyderabad, just across the state border in Karnataka is Bidar. If you love visiting places of historic significance and can’t get enough of architecture, this is one road trip that you must make from the city.

The most prominent landmark of this city – which dates back to the third century BC – is the Bidar Fort. It was built by the first sultan of the Bahamani Dynasty, Ala Ud Din Bahaman Shah when he set up his capital and 4Kms from here is the final resting place of the Bahamani Sultans. No visit to Bidar is complete without a trip to these majestic structures located in Ashtur, The Bahamani Tombs. Some of them are in a state of disrepair today, but even these crumbling mausoleums stand a beautiful testament to the art of an era gone by.

En route to Ashtur just before you get to the Tombs, on to the left is yet another idyllic setting to rest for eternity, the expansive and peaceful resting place of Hazrat Khalil Ullah, a popular religious preceptor of the time. Known as the Chaukhandi, this octagonal structure is beautiful in its simplicity and clean lines.

July 15, 2016
Heart of Green: The Autumn Leaf

You know you are stepping into a Heart of Green right from the time you see this house tucked away in a quite lane off the busy Jubilee Hills Road #36.

The first time that I went to The Autumn Leaf, I wasn’t really taken up with it. My first impression of this Cafe + Decor Studio was ‘wannabe arty-farty’. Add to that, service that could only be termed as daft. It was like a concept had been lifted straight out of the garden city of Bangalore – for the only thing striking about it, was the house and the garden that it was build around and how perfectly they had been brought together – but had fallen flat on its face in terms of transporting the “coolness” of such a cafe.

But, inspite of all that I found myself giving in to the temptation of sitting under a tree on a late – after rain – afternoon, slowly sipping on a Bombay Cutting Chai while taking in all the green. Psst..and if you have been on the look out for some inspiration to recreate a little leafy corner of your own, check this out..https://www.homify.in/rooms/garden.

From the first time to now, over the last month, The Autumn Leaf Cafe has come a long way. Maybe it was just me finding some beautiful solid wood furniture or the round little terracotta Buddha for the garden in their Studio or maybe it was just that from eating waffles plain & rueing my Nutella bottle to coming to actually finding Hummus & Tabbouleh in the Cafe, that was almost there! Whatever be the reason, this Studio + Cafe has surely come around to becoming a definite stop to shop for quirky knick knacks for the home or for a quick bite from their all day breakfast menu, along the way.

& well from all the green to the tiles of the roof, this charming cafe seems to have grown in its appeal not just with me, for on any given day now, you have no choice but to wait for a table!

Discover Cafes in Hyderabad: #InSearchofCoffee

Sugar Rushed in Hyderabad

June 29, 2016
Thank You!

Map In My Pocket is today, a year old. I started with The Road to Serenity: Chandratal on this day last year and you, my readers who have kept up with me on this journey have helped nurture this blog to what it is today.

& I want to take this opportunity to Thank all my readers who with their interest in reading my travel stories have kept me going!

Every comment, every like, every idea that you readers give me ? this connect, it means the world to me. Thank you for all the love, support and encouragement that you have showered on me.

As a token of my love, I want to give away postcards of Photographs from my Travels to 25 of my readers. Take your pick from the Shop Postcards section – that I am also launching today – and leave a comment. Or if you have a favourite picture from any of the posts, do let me know and I will get you the Postcard.

June 28, 2016
1 Year of Map In My Pocket: Thank You!

Map In My Pocket is today, a year old. I started with The Road to Serenity: Chandratal on this day last year and you, my readers who have kept up with me on this journey have helped nurture this blog to what it is today.

& I want to take this opportunity to Thank all my readers who with their interest in reading my travel stories have kept me going!

Every comment, every like, every idea that you readers give me ? this connect, it means the world to me. Thank you for all the love, support and encouragement that you have showered me with.

As a token of my love, I want to give away postcards of Photographs from my Travels to 25 of my readers. Take your pick from the Shop Postcards section – that I am also launching today – and leave a comment. Or if you have a favourite picture from any of the posts, do let me know and I will get you the Postcard.

Know more about My Journey:

The year that was, 2016
7 UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 2017

June 28, 2016
Artisan Villages of Telangana: Nirmal
Second in the series, ‘Artisan Villages of Telangana’, comes the village of Nirmal in Adilabad district. A two hour drive from Hyderabad brings you to this town where all the village artists have got together to create a co-operative society, recognise themselves and setup a store to sustain this dying art form.

Practised by the Naqash artists of the 14^th century, The Nirmal Art Form is an ancient tradition that has today, translated into making of toys and paintings from the locally available variety of softwood, known as ‘Poniki Chekka’. Though slowly fading out with each passing generation of the artisans losing interest; it originally flourished in the area, as the then rulers were great patrons of this art.

Made from tender wood, put together with a mixture of saw dust in tamarind seed paste (chinta lappam) and finished with a coat of brilliant paint, typical also of the Nirmal Paintings, these handmade toys are very light.

Artists of both these Telangana villages, Nirmal and Cheriyal use the same indigenous raw material to create such varied art. While the Cheriyal Artists use the chinta lappam to sculpt their masks, these artists use it to glue on the limbs and wings to their animal and bird figures and as a base to smoothen and bring shape to the toy.

All the artists are registered with the village cooperative society and work within its framework. Every artist is given a single toy to make, which he makes in number and takes around 20 days to a month to complete and so does not have to adhere to a stringent daily work routine but can pace it out as long as he delivers on schedule.

You can tell a Nirmal Painting from its characteristic streaks of gold, always against a black background. & also, from the human form that is graceful in its expression and is eloquent in its influence of the Mughal Miniaturist Art and the Ajanta and Kangra styles of painting.

A Nirmal Painting of the Basara Gnana Saraswati Devi, the Hindu Goddess of Learning at Basara, an important pilgrimage destination in the district.

Explorers Guide

Getting There: Take the NH44 straight from Kompally. A smooth drive of 210 Kms should get you to Nirmal.
Remember: There are quite a few tollgates along the way, so make sure to account for a little extra while budgeting for this road trip.

Places of Interest: Add one or more of these to your itinerary to complete your day trip.
- Shamgarh Fort – Right at the entrance to the town, make a quick stop here for a view of the whole town from the ruins.
- Pochampadu Dam – Only 3 Kms off the highway, you don’t really need to make extra time for this one. Also known as the Sri Ramasagar Dam, probably owing to the popular Ram Mandir located here, not only is this one of the biggest dams in the area irrigating 5 districts of both Telangana and Andhra but it was also one of spots for the Godavari Pushkaralu last year.
- Kuntala & Pochera Falls -Roughly around 50 Kms further ahead of Nirmal, both of these are in the same direction. Kuntala Falls are touted to be the highest waterfalls in Telangana.
- Basara Sarawasti Devi Temple – If religious detours are more your style, this is a must visit. Every day, thousands of Children begin their intellectual journey here with the South Indian Hindu ceremony, Aksharaabhasyam. This rite marks the start of a child’s formal education.
Read Next: Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Uppada

Read More on Artisan Villages of India:

Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Sri Kalahasti
Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Karipakam
Artisan Villages of Telangana: Cheriyal
May 27, 2016
Artisan Villages of Telangana: Cheriyal

I had earlier on my blog, done a story on the Weavers of Andhra Pradesh from the Karipakam – Patur region. Just like that, are other artisan villages in India which are so exclusive and distinctive in their technique that they lend their name to the Handicraft, irrespective of the form they take.

Which is why I have decided to start a series titled ‘Artisan Villages’.

I shall try and visit as many of these places as I can, in the process, learning and documenting traditional art forms prevalent in India from as far back as one can remember.

I begin this series, with one closest home, Cheriyal.

An hour away from Hyderabad is the village of Cheriyal in Telangana. Here is where the famous ‘Cheriyal Scrolls’ come from. These canvas scrolls made from Khadi are hand painted in a style unique to the local motifs and iconography. Characterised by a dominance of the colour red in the background, these brilliantly-hued paintings even received Geographical Indication Status in 2007.

Painted in panels as a narrative, these are like comic strips from the past, depicting scenes and stories from Indian mythology and epics. Distinct in their style they immediately convey the age old Indian traditions and customs in a beautiful and engaging manner. Of which, both, Lords Krishna and Rama are prominent and the most recurring. Originally used by the village bard as a visual aid to go with his stories and ballads, these scrolls have all but phased out with today’s more mainstream ways of storytelling and entertainment.

The traditional Cheriyal Scrolls were sociologically and culturally significant in their time, for their use as a tool for educating the illiterate villagers. From a scroll that once had up to 50 panels, they have now come down to a single panel, as these artists adapt to its modern use as wall art.

Also coming from Cheriyal, are masks and dolls modelled along the same theme of ancient Indian mythology and local folk lore. These masks range from as small as the ones sculpted and painted on coconut shells to as large as the ones moulded in cement.

Now, there are very few artists practising this traditional art form, with Cheriyal being the last village standing that continues to produce these scrolls and masks. Of the three remaining artist families in the village are the husband and wife duo, Vanaja & Ganesh.

They are both government recognised artists, who have had the honour of transferring these Cheriyal Masks as 10 feet wall murals in Nagpur for the President, Mr.Pranab Mukherjee’s visit some time ago. While, Mr.Ganesh has conducted workshops under the South Central Zonal Cultural Centre’s Guru Shishya Parampara Scheme. Their two daughters also chip in during their time off from school, for these village arts are usually a family occupation.

All in all these scrolls when framed, make for gorgeous gifts. So if you are looking at exclusive party favours or corporate gifts with that characteristic touch of Indian-ness, you know where to go!

Not only would you encourage a dying art form but you would also be making a statement. :)

Explorers Guide

Getting There: Ideal for a quick day trip, Cheriyal is 54 Km from Hyderabad and can be reached by road in less than an hour and a half. Take the NH44 to get there.
On the Way: Make a pit stop at any of the Dhabas in Kompally to refuel.

Get in Touch: With the artist, Mr. N Ganesh on +91 9000181059.

Read Next: Artisan Villages of Telangana: Nirmal

Read More on Artisan Villages of India:

Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Sri Kalahasti
Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Uppada
Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Karipakam

May 8, 2016
Into The Jungle: Tada Falls

Ubbalamadugu in Andhra Pradesh is a popular trekking and road trip destination from Chennai. Located in Tada, deep in the jungle of Satyavedu just north of the Sri City SEZ, these waterfalls are more commonly known as Tada Falls.

A short walk through the trail gets you to the Jungle Pools and this is a lush green shady oasis where the water from the falls travels downhill to form clear cool pools. Which also gives this place its name, derived from the the telugu words Ubbari Madugu meaning spring pool. A further trek of 10 kms through the hilly terrain brings you to the actual waterfalls. But this is where you should stop, for though the trek is quite scenic it isn’t really a great trek for girls and a definite no-no if you are not with a group.

In fact, halfway along the trail, once we a caught a glimpse of the distant falls, we turned back because of that unmistakable feeling of unease to go ahead, heightened only by the isolated feel of the place and the groups of youngsters looking to break free! Even the monkeys don’t venture too far out here and like to stick around in the spots where they are sure to find leftover chips and coke.

It is nevertheless a beautiful place, so depending on the size of the group you are travelling with and the time of the day, you could pace your exploration.

April 30, 2016
Ameenpur Lake: The Flamingo Story

Flamingoes, vibrantly hued and long-legged have always been popular in pop art and now with so many designers borrowing from art to add quirkiness to everything from accessories to home decor, you see these pink birds everywhere!

For all the beautiful colours of its plumage, these birds are not as popular in India as say a peacock, so they become “exotic” when found in India. After the disastrous trip this year to the Flamingo Festival at Pulicat, when I actually discovered them here, right in the city, you can imagine my joy. :)

& now I am more than excited and content about the photographs I got to click of them. Though I wager I might still go back to Ameenpur Lake to get better shots!

Not quite common knowledge, the Ameenpur Lake in Hyderabad is an expansive lake of over 100 acres, right in the backyard of one of the Industrial Areas in the city. Though more than half of it has dried up – the lake bed is chock full with shells, clearly once part of the lake itself – it still holds its ground as an important wetland area and a safe haven for migratory and local birds alike. This lake was recently adopted by the Telangana State Special Protection Force and the State Government is working towards declaring it a Heritage Biodiversity Park and has granted funds towards restoring it.

Explorers Guide

Getting There: It is just off the IDA Bollarum Road, between Miyapur & Bachupally. Use Google Maps to guide you there, besides on a weekend you can always follow the trail of vehicles heading in that direction once you are on that road.
Remember: Be there at the lake early in the morning. The locals say the flamingoes leave by around 10 in the morning and are back only in the evening. I am yet to go there later in the day though, so I am not too sure about this.

Read Next: Its a small, small world.

April 22, 2016
Poetry in Pink

Spread over a 1300 acre sprawling campus and peopled with elegant old buildings is the Osmania University in Hyderabad. The seventh oldest university in the country was brought into existence by the seventh Nizam of Hyderabad in 1918.

This beautifully green campus is so vast that its roads have long come to become regular thoroughfares in the city. So much so that, one does not even know just how many buildings are scattered around here and does not even spare more than a glance. That too when the names on the buildings get you thinking as to all the obscure possible disciplines of formal education and research available!

So it wasn’t till I actually stood under the Arts College Building one Sunday morning after I had decided to photograph it, did I realise just how smartly and tastefully this graceful old building has been designed.

Born from a farman (Royal Charter) by Nawab Osman Ali Khan, this university’s buildings were planned by Mr. Jasper, a Belgian architect, who was “found” by an expert panel of architects and engineers who had toured through Europe, America, Japan, Egypt and Turkey in the quest.

It is of little surprise then that the centre piece of this spread, the Arts College is but Poetry in Pink.

This Heritage Building of Pink Granite, which took 5 years to construct, was officially inaugurated in 1939.

Read Next: The Lost Pump House

April 16, 2016
The Age of Colonialism

This is my first post yet from the city where my parents grew up. :)

To me, Visakhapatnam has always only been a ‘colonial town’. So, when we were there for a day visiting my grandmother I did not want to let an opportunity go by, however small, of exploring, discovering and documenting at least a little of this beautiful, laid back city.

& as we strolled along the winding walkways of Waltair Club, I could almost picture an older, more settled me spending many a pleasant, relaxed evening here. (day dreaming!)

The fact that the club was the first to introduce electricity to Vizag, house it’s first dispensary and boast of the only telephone in town stands testimony to it’s ‘colonialism’.

Whatever it’s history may be, it still is a cool oasis of serenity in the hot and humid Vizag.

The colonial style bungalows, those grey stone walls, the clean meandering roads and the lush greenery of even the old old trees only add to the still and calm of this club established by the British way back in 1883.

March 27, 2016
Save The Sunday!

Sunday before last, I was in the Indian School of Business for their Digital Summit 2016. The “workshop” was barely more than a platform for the internet and social media giants to come and ‘perform’ their sales pitch!

So, in a bid to Save The Sunday, I walked around the campus looking to photograph anything that caught my eye. Luckily I loved photographing the wonderful symmetries, à la Jantar Mantar.

Bill wasn’t unkind or rude by nature, but now he struck. ‘I appreciate your kind invitation’, he said, ‘but I never go to the Yatch Club. I’ve never been inside it.’

Mr.Smithers looked alarmed. ‘Why not, Mr.Wainwright? Surely it’s a fine club.’

‘It isn’t that. Only you see I have a good many Indian friends – some of them very distinguished – and as you know, they are not allowed to enter the club. So I don’t go either… it seems to me rather odd considering that India is their country.

-Louis Bromfield, Night in Bombay, 1940

Atleast, they did not need a debate to decide if they were indeed an Indian Institution.

Read Next: Poetry in Pink

March 26, 2016
Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Karipakam

South Indian Silk Sarees have always been known for their elegance. Be it from Telangana, Andhra, Karnataka or Tamil Nadu, every saree is unique in its design and technique to the region. & these sarees are usually eponymous of the region they come from.

One such are the Patur Sarees, which are quite in fashion today. Cotton, Silk and Zari (gold thread) threads are hand-woven together to craft these beautiful cotton silk sarees from the Village of Patur in Nellore District and the adjoining Village of Karipakam in Chittoor District.

There were around 150 weavers in Karipakam once. Today there are only 50, the lack of patronage pushing them to find work in nearby factories. Even the working conditions are not much to speak of. Though the dying of threads and getting them ready is more of an outdoor activity, the actual weaving is done in a pit loom.

What little work now comes into the village comes from the head weaver, who gets designs from speciality retail stores like Nalli Silks and distributes it amongst the weavers.

Since, the mainstay of the village is this craft, all the villagers/weavers get together every morning to dye silk and cotton threads sourced from different places. It is a sight to see. So, if you wish to see the weavers at work, do visit the village on a sunny morning. Sunny mornings, for even the weather needs to be conducive. Too much moisture in the air dampens the thread which makes it difficult for the colour to stick.

Once, the patterns and the spindles of thread are ready, they are loaded onto the loom and the weaving begins. Keeping with the trend and also the rules set by the buying companies, a design is not usually repeated.

Zari motifs are hand-woven into the saree, which takes 2-3 days to finish depending on the number of colours in the pattern. If the same saree were to be made on a power loom, these would have to be sewn on to the saree separately.

and, this is what sets these gorgeous lightweight sarees apart.

Starting at Rs.2,500/-, the sarees can be bought directly from the weavers houses.

Explorers Guide

Getting There
By Road – The most convenient way to get there is to drive down from Tirupati. This takes a little over an hour.
By Air – Nearest airports are Tirupati and Chennai.
By Rail – Nearest railway station is at Sullurpet.

Stay
Big Stay serviced apartments at Tada. With over 200 rooms, Indian, Oriental & Continental cuisines catering to people of all nationalities visiting/working at the Sri City SEZ and a travel desk that arranges your airport drop and pick up, they ensure a comfortable stay.

Things To Do
Trekking at Naagala Hills.
Kayaking at the creek in Sri City.

Nearby Places of Interest
Pulicat Lake – India’s second largest salt-water lagoon, it is the winter home to numerous migratory birds from Central Asia, of which Flamingos and Pelicans number the most. The state tourism department hosts a Flamingo Festival here in January every year.
Nelapattu Bird Sanctuary – Also known as Pelican Paradise, it is counted amongst the popular bird sanctuaries of India.
Ubbalamadugu – Jungle Pools and waterfall.

Read More on Artisan Villages of India:

Artisan Villages of Telangana: Nirmal
Artisan Villages of Telangana: Cheriyal
Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Sri Kalahasti
Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Uppada

March 12, 2016
Standing Still: Moazzam Jahi Market

Named after Moazzam Jah Bahadur, son of the seventh and last Nizam of Hyderabad, The Moazzam Jahi Market is built entirely in stone.

Modelled after the ‘Universal Stores’ of the West, construction of this popular landmark began in 1933 by the City Improvement Board, whose President was Prince Moazzam Jah. Besides being a centrally located traders centre, it was supposed to have housed the fruit market that sent fruit to the Nizam living in the Falaknuma Palace then.

On the completion of the market in 1935, a clock was installed on the Minar facing the main street crossing. Today, this Clock Tower is iconic in the Old City of Hyderabad.

The architecture of this triangular granite structure is striking in its antiquity. Which is what probably prompted Nikon to conduct a photowalk here, the first Sunday of February. It is also on the HMDA’s Heritage Buildings List.

With remarkable archways, spiral staircases, colourful doors, flocks of pigeons and a flurry of activity from the 100+ shopkeepers setting up shop and scattering grain for the birds to feed on, the courtyard is the most integral part of this building.

81 years and this market has stood still. Not much has changed but the generations of shopkeepers and the kids that stop to binge on the “famous” handmade fruit icecream.

March 5, 2016
Heart of Hyderabad: Old City

Now that I am working on the 52 Photowalks Project, I am constantly on the lookout for heritage walks and photo walks happening in the city. Seek Sherpa’s Galliyon Ke Raja was my first such.

It was great fun. Like walking around the Streets of Old City looking for subjects was not enough of an out-of-my-comfort-zone moment, there was this whole ‘Street Photography’ tag attached to it too! But, luckily for me, it was a great first. I even got to learn quite a bit on controlling the camera and understanding lenses better from the very helpful and nice ‘sherpa’ conducting the micro-tour (as they call it).

Now, no more words. I believe and hope that this time around, just the pictures are enough to tell a tale.

February 27, 2016
Golconda Fort: Through The Ages

The Golconda Fort is a testament to the history of Hyderabad and this region.

Originally a fort of the Kakatiyas, it went through the Bahamanis to the Qutub Shahi Kings, who made it their capital. From the earlier peacock and griffin carvings to the later fort walls with its numerous bastions and battlements bear evidence to this fact.

Anyone who has lived in Hyderabad long enough will tell you how important this confluence of Hindu and Muslim cultures has been in shaping not just the city but even its distinctive language! Hyderabadi as it is called (a mixture of Urdu & Hindi) even extends its influence to the local Telangana dialect of Telugu giving it it’s distinctive twist.

Built on a hillock 400 feet high, The Golconda Fort derives its name from the Telugu word ‘Golla Konda’ meaning Shepherd’s Hill. Legend has it that a shepherd found an idol here and the reigning Kakatiya King built a mud fort around it.

Surrounded by a deep moat, an outer wall and an inner double wall, this Fort was neigh impregnable. Made even more daunting by the cannons mounted on its 87 bastions, Golconda was the strongest amongst the forts of Deccan. It was Aurangazeb who finally managed to infringe the fort in 1687 and it is said that even this was made possible only because of a traitor on the inside.

Meandering up the hill, within these fortifications, is yet another stone wall made from the boulders already there. So, this once-unconquerable-now-in-ruins fort is still striking in its architecture.

But the truly remarkable samples of the ingenious design and planning that went into the construction of this fort remain the Persian wheel water Supply and the acoustic signalling mechanism.

Relying purely on gravity, water was collected from, stored and supplied at different levels of this massive citadel!

Every building and wall is positioned in a way that allows sound from the entryway to be carried up to the hilltop. Believed to be a communication mechanism for the guards, one can still experience this by clapping at the threshold and hearing the echo travel.

The third feat of engineering in Golconda that has stood the test of time are the archways built in a way to allow cool breeze to circulate through the various palaces and halls, a definite breather from the summer heat of Hyderabad.

Other interesting must-sees in this fort complex are the still intact Aslah Khana (3 storeyed armoury), Ramadas Bandikhana (where the legendary devotee of Lord Rama, Bhakta Ramadasu was jailed by the last ruler of Qutub Shahi Dynasty, Tana Shah for surreptitiously ‘borrowing’ money from the royal treasury to restore the Bhadrachalam Temple), Baradari (pavilion on the hilltop), Ibrahim Masjid, Mortuary Baths (in today’s context just beautiful archways built in Persian+Turkish style), Taramati Mosque, Nagina Bagh (once a thriving diamond trade centre as attested by none other than Marco Polo, today, a garden).

It is believed that even the Kohinoor was mined here!

Things To Do: Get a guide who will take you up the hillock and regale you along the way with intrigues of the court from an era gone by.

or

Watch the Light & Sound Show conducted by the State Department of Tourism, where every evening, the history and romance of this beautiful place is recreated through music and story telling.

or go early in the evening and do both. :)

Read Next: Standing Still: Moazzam Jahi Market

February 26, 2016
Of Sunny Days & Brisk Breezes

Hyderabad’s International Kite Festival found its way to a larger venue this year – away from the hustle and bustle of Necklace Road – the Aga Khan Academy near the airport.

Makara Sankranti is an important Indian Harvest Festival celebrated across the country. This day marks the return of the sun after the cold winter and is a harbinger of the coming harvest season for farmers.

Also known as Pongal in some states of the South, it gets its name from the dish that is made this day. Rice from the first harvest of the year is cooked in milk that has come to a ‘pongu’, meaning boil and sweetened with jaggery or sugar.

In Gujarat, where the biggest Kite Festival of the country takes place, it is Uttarayan. How ever many be the names that this festival is called by, the one common thread that weaves through it is the ‘flying of kites’.

India is of many religions and this is one of the celebrations that brings together, them all. For, it is believed that the custom of flying kites was brought to India by the Persian muslims!

Yes it does not make up for the nostalgia of that simple childhood joy. Of stringing up your kite with manja (thread coated with the tiniest shards of glass), running around with your spool on the terrace as you try to ‘cut’ as many kites as you can and then counting your loot at the end of it all.

But, this 2 day Kite Festival does bring to you an array of different kinds of kites from across the globe.

It is usually right after the sun rises and before the sun sets that one flies kites while it is still pleasant and the sun isn’t too sharp, but it is still breezy enough for the kites to take to the sky.

& with the setting sun, out goes the light and the International Kite Festival 2016 of Hyderabad draws to a close.

February 5, 2016
Go Flamingo, Go!

The Flamingo Festival in Andhra Pradesh is an annual affair by the State Government to increase awareness about the conservation of Flamingos, which make the Pulicat Lake their winter home. As far as I know, this 3 day festival has been happening since 2012, in January every year at the Pulicat & Nelapattu Bird Sanctuaries of Andhra Pradesh.

Only this year, there was not a Flamingo in sight.

The Pulicat Lake, which is the second largest salt-water lagoon in India, is the winter home to numerous Birds from Central Asia (of which Flamingos and Pelicans number the most). These birds come from as far as Siberia to as near as Ladakh, to mate and nest. Looking to escape the chill, they fly across continents, traversing thousands of miles of ocean.

Read: The Flamingo Story

and, what do they find when they finally reach here, their winter home?

Desolation.

Pulicat Lake, January 2015.

To get here you take the road to Sri Hari Kota, an Island off the coast of Bay of Bengal that houses the Satellite Launching Station of ISRO. This is a stretch of around 15km of road with the Pulicat Lake on either side, for as far as you can see.

When I had gone here last year, I had never seen anything like it before. The horizon was pink with flamingos and this ‘Road Through The Lake’ was like no other.

Sorry, no clear shots of the flamingos. :( This was all that I could get on my phone camera.

Pulicat Lake, NOW. January 2016.

Today the Pulicat Lake is totally choked up with sand, thanks to the roads being laid across it cutting off its water inflow from the ocean and making it unsustainable for marine life. 30,000 fishermen once depended on this lake for their livelihood.

Words fail me, as I try to describe the deliberate devastation brought to this place.

The experience of driving on that road-through the lake-to the Island, went from one end of the spectrum to the other, just like that!

No water, no marine life, no flamingos. NADA.

I have been writing this post in my head for 15 days now, but every time I add a photo or a word to the actual draft I can only feel that I am not able to do justice to the situation with my words or photographs. So here is a 15sec video from last year, which I hope paints a more accurate picture of the now no longer existent tranquil life of the Birds of Pulicat Lake.

One can only hope that measures are taken to reverse the damage and the Flamingos come back some day!

Read Next: Into The Jungle

January 27, 2016
The Lost Pump House

I was born in Hyderabad, and I have lived here most of my life. But, it wasn’t until a year ago, when a friend mentioned Fox Sagar Lake, did I even become aware of its existence. He hadn’t heard of it either, till his work for a magazine helped us discover this Lake.

& This lake is beautiful. Period.

Hyderabad is known for its Hussain Sagar and The Buddha Statue there. The Hussain Sagar has an iconic status that it shares with Charminar and now, Hitec City. But, in reality, it is an extremely polluted lake that stinks up the air! Inspite of this, being the only water body in an otherwise hot and crowded city, it draws in crowds by the hundreds and even thousands on holidays. I, like everyone else, have been drawn to it too.

On the other hand, is The Fox Sagar Lake. In the city, but wide, expansive and cheerful. You can still see buildings, but at a distance.

Though not so popular with the locals, it definitely is a hit with the birds! I wasn’t really expecting to see so many birds of such varied species. Truth be told, I did not even know what to expect. All we did was follow the route traced out on Google Maps!!

But, what adds to the charm of this Lake and makes it so special is the antiquated Pump House built on it.

Nearly 120 years old, the lake and pump house were apparently built by the Nizam of Hyderabad as part of his program for bringing in water to the city. There is even an 1897 inscribed on its dome! :D

You reach the pump house by a stretch of narrow elevated road, which is more of a dirt trail sloping off on either side with thorny shrubs as barricades. So, the only way to reach it is by foot or by a bike. When we had gone there do a recce of this place, we were driving as suggested by google maps and we were already on this road with no where else to go but ahead! Some careful manoeuvering did get us there, but I wouldn’t suggest this.

Walking is more fun anyway, for then you notice more.

The Pump House is a beautiful structure which also creates gorgeous, intricate shadow patterns with the sun’s rays. You would not be able to resist clicking pictures of it!

Waiting – literally – just around the corner is a view just as picturesque if not more. You can go around the ledge for a beautiful view of the lake and the breathtaking quality of it is enhanced not only by the absolute vertical drop from there, but the cool breeze blowing in your face.

Well, finding not just water but in a place that is relatively un-intruded upon by man, plus the bonus of a cool tranquil breeze is a very rare occurrence here, so, I am sorry if I go a little overboard with my adjectives!!

PS: This fellow here, gets a special mention for just being so cute! He led us to the lake after ascertaining the ‘goodness’ of each of us.

January 2, 2016