Map In My Pocket

Category: Experiences

I Heart Honey Bears: Le Pain Quotidien

They call themselves a ‘Bakery and Communal Table’ and you know they take it seriously.

The hum of conversation fills the air, jam is passed around the table and ever so gracefully, time slows.

& that it isn’t just something beautiful to say.

Besides, who doesn’t like being surrounded by Honey Bears?!

The Le Pain Quotidien at Mirdif City Centre is like a cosy corner, where you wrap your hands around a mug of hot chocolate and slip into a world of your own.

Mirdif City Centre is one of my favourite malls in Dubai. I know it is an odd choice, but it is relatively not crowded for a city centre and functions at its own pace of laid back and for me that is the perfect combination of a place where you can just hang out and do nothing!

& also the fact that almost all of the restaurant chains that I like to frequent have a home here.

Though often overlooked in favour of Paul or Tim Hortons, ‘the daily bread’ stands its own and is surely worth a go when one feels like pausing a while. Not only is the food delicious and the ambience warm, the staff too are friendly and nice. :)

& I totally loved their Praline Chocolate Cake, when I was there last.

Le Pain Quotidien

Level 1, Central Galleria
Mirdif City Centre, Dubai

+971 4 190 751

Open: 7:30 am -11 pm

Read Next: Eataly: To the Perfect Tiratisu!

Discover Cafes in Dubai: #InSearchofCoffee

24 Hours in Dubai
But, first Coffee.

July 13, 2016
Kitchen 6: A King’s Spread

For the good or for the bad, during my time in Dubai, I was not able to go on the two photowalks as planned. So, here I am substituting those with 2 Eatouts instead!

First off, Kitchen 6.

Six, open kitchens. The six live cooking stations in this restaurant at JW Marriott Marquis Dubai are what give it its name and also makes this the most popular destination for lazy weekend brunches and grand buffets.

You will be spoilt for choice – with a spread truly fit for a king – from European Breads to Indian, Asian Woks to Arabic Desserts. and, of course the Middle Eastern Grills, how can one miss out on these, when you are in this part of the world!

& the desserts? What about them??

:D

It definitely is one of the more enjoyable buffets in Dubai, not just because of how much there is to choose from, even for vegetarians but also because of the layout where every table feels like a snug little nook, say as against a buffet in Atlantis where you are too busy jostling with the crowds to really enjoy a relaxed meal.

Kitchen 6 sure is a must try if you are someone who can do justice to a spread like this!

Kitchen 6

Level 1, JW Marriot Marquis Dubai
Sheikh Zayed Road
Business Bay, Dubai

+971 4 414 3000

Open: 6 am – 11 pm

Discover Dining Options in Dubai:

Eataly: To the Perfect Tiratisu!

July 3, 2016
Heart of Green: The Autumn Leaf

You know you are stepping into a Heart of Green right from the time you see this house tucked away in a quite lane off the busy Jubilee Hills Road #36.

The first time that I went to The Autumn Leaf, I wasn’t really taken up with it. My first impression of this Cafe + Decor Studio was ‘wannabe arty-farty’. Add to that, service that could only be termed as daft. It was like a concept had been lifted straight out of the garden city of Bangalore – for the only thing striking about it, was the house and the garden that it was build around and how perfectly they had been brought together – but had fallen flat on its face in terms of transporting the “coolness” of such a cafe.

But, inspite of all that I found myself giving in to the temptation of sitting under a tree on a late – after rain – afternoon, slowly sipping on a Bombay Cutting Chai while taking in all the green. Psst..and if you have been on the look out for some inspiration to recreate a little leafy corner of your own, check this out..https://www.homify.in/rooms/garden.

From the first time to now, over the last month, The Autumn Leaf Cafe has come a long way. Maybe it was just me finding some beautiful solid wood furniture or the round little terracotta Buddha for the garden in their Studio or maybe it was just that from eating waffles plain & rueing my Nutella bottle to coming to actually finding Hummus & Tabbouleh in the Cafe, that was almost there! Whatever be the reason, this Studio + Cafe has surely come around to becoming a definite stop to shop for quirky knick knacks for the home or for a quick bite from their all day breakfast menu, along the way.

& well from all the green to the tiles of the roof, this charming cafe seems to have grown in its appeal not just with me, for on any given day now, you have no choice but to wait for a table!

Discover Cafes in Hyderabad: #InSearchofCoffee

Sugar Rushed in Hyderabad

June 29, 2016
Artisan Villages of Telangana: Nirmal
Second in the series, ‘Artisan Villages of Telangana’, comes the village of Nirmal in Adilabad district. A two hour drive from Hyderabad brings you to this town where all the village artists have got together to create a co-operative society, recognise themselves and setup a store to sustain this dying art form.

Practised by the Naqash artists of the 14^th century, The Nirmal Art Form is an ancient tradition that has today, translated into making of toys and paintings from the locally available variety of softwood, known as ‘Poniki Chekka’. Though slowly fading out with each passing generation of the artisans losing interest; it originally flourished in the area, as the then rulers were great patrons of this art.

Made from tender wood, put together with a mixture of saw dust in tamarind seed paste (chinta lappam) and finished with a coat of brilliant paint, typical also of the Nirmal Paintings, these handmade toys are very light.

Artists of both these Telangana villages, Nirmal and Cheriyal use the same indigenous raw material to create such varied art. While the Cheriyal Artists use the chinta lappam to sculpt their masks, these artists use it to glue on the limbs and wings to their animal and bird figures and as a base to smoothen and bring shape to the toy.

All the artists are registered with the village cooperative society and work within its framework. Every artist is given a single toy to make, which he makes in number and takes around 20 days to a month to complete and so does not have to adhere to a stringent daily work routine but can pace it out as long as he delivers on schedule.

You can tell a Nirmal Painting from its characteristic streaks of gold, always against a black background. & also, from the human form that is graceful in its expression and is eloquent in its influence of the Mughal Miniaturist Art and the Ajanta and Kangra styles of painting.

A Nirmal Painting of the Basara Gnana Saraswati Devi, the Hindu Goddess of Learning at Basara, an important pilgrimage destination in the district.

Explorers Guide

Getting There: Take the NH44 straight from Kompally. A smooth drive of 210 Kms should get you to Nirmal.
Remember: There are quite a few tollgates along the way, so make sure to account for a little extra while budgeting for this road trip.

Places of Interest: Add one or more of these to your itinerary to complete your day trip.
- Shamgarh Fort – Right at the entrance to the town, make a quick stop here for a view of the whole town from the ruins.
- Pochampadu Dam – Only 3 Kms off the highway, you don’t really need to make extra time for this one. Also known as the Sri Ramasagar Dam, probably owing to the popular Ram Mandir located here, not only is this one of the biggest dams in the area irrigating 5 districts of both Telangana and Andhra but it was also one of spots for the Godavari Pushkaralu last year.
- Kuntala & Pochera Falls -Roughly around 50 Kms further ahead of Nirmal, both of these are in the same direction. Kuntala Falls are touted to be the highest waterfalls in Telangana.
- Basara Sarawasti Devi Temple – If religious detours are more your style, this is a must visit. Every day, thousands of Children begin their intellectual journey here with the South Indian Hindu ceremony, Aksharaabhasyam. This rite marks the start of a child’s formal education.
Read Next: Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Uppada

Read More on Artisan Villages of India:

Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Sri Kalahasti
Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Karipakam
Artisan Villages of Telangana: Cheriyal
May 27, 2016
Artisan Villages of Telangana: Cheriyal

I had earlier on my blog, done a story on the Weavers of Andhra Pradesh from the Karipakam – Patur region. Just like that, are other artisan villages in India which are so exclusive and distinctive in their technique that they lend their name to the Handicraft, irrespective of the form they take.

Which is why I have decided to start a series titled ‘Artisan Villages’.

I shall try and visit as many of these places as I can, in the process, learning and documenting traditional art forms prevalent in India from as far back as one can remember.

I begin this series, with one closest home, Cheriyal.

An hour away from Hyderabad is the village of Cheriyal in Telangana. Here is where the famous ‘Cheriyal Scrolls’ come from. These canvas scrolls made from Khadi are hand painted in a style unique to the local motifs and iconography. Characterised by a dominance of the colour red in the background, these brilliantly-hued paintings even received Geographical Indication Status in 2007.

Painted in panels as a narrative, these are like comic strips from the past, depicting scenes and stories from Indian mythology and epics. Distinct in their style they immediately convey the age old Indian traditions and customs in a beautiful and engaging manner. Of which, both, Lords Krishna and Rama are prominent and the most recurring. Originally used by the village bard as a visual aid to go with his stories and ballads, these scrolls have all but phased out with today’s more mainstream ways of storytelling and entertainment.

The traditional Cheriyal Scrolls were sociologically and culturally significant in their time, for their use as a tool for educating the illiterate villagers. From a scroll that once had up to 50 panels, they have now come down to a single panel, as these artists adapt to its modern use as wall art.

Also coming from Cheriyal, are masks and dolls modelled along the same theme of ancient Indian mythology and local folk lore. These masks range from as small as the ones sculpted and painted on coconut shells to as large as the ones moulded in cement.

Now, there are very few artists practising this traditional art form, with Cheriyal being the last village standing that continues to produce these scrolls and masks. Of the three remaining artist families in the village are the husband and wife duo, Vanaja & Ganesh.

They are both government recognised artists, who have had the honour of transferring these Cheriyal Masks as 10 feet wall murals in Nagpur for the President, Mr.Pranab Mukherjee’s visit some time ago. While, Mr.Ganesh has conducted workshops under the South Central Zonal Cultural Centre’s Guru Shishya Parampara Scheme. Their two daughters also chip in during their time off from school, for these village arts are usually a family occupation.

All in all these scrolls when framed, make for gorgeous gifts. So if you are looking at exclusive party favours or corporate gifts with that characteristic touch of Indian-ness, you know where to go!

Not only would you encourage a dying art form but you would also be making a statement. :)

Explorers Guide

Getting There: Ideal for a quick day trip, Cheriyal is 54 Km from Hyderabad and can be reached by road in less than an hour and a half. Take the NH44 to get there.
On the Way: Make a pit stop at any of the Dhabas in Kompally to refuel.

Get in Touch: With the artist, Mr. N Ganesh on +91 9000181059.

Read Next: Artisan Villages of Telangana: Nirmal

Read More on Artisan Villages of India:

Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Sri Kalahasti
Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Uppada
Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Karipakam

May 8, 2016
Into The Jungle: Tada Falls

Ubbalamadugu in Andhra Pradesh is a popular trekking and road trip destination from Chennai. Located in Tada, deep in the jungle of Satyavedu just north of the Sri City SEZ, these waterfalls are more commonly known as Tada Falls.

A short walk through the trail gets you to the Jungle Pools and this is a lush green shady oasis where the water from the falls travels downhill to form clear cool pools. Which also gives this place its name, derived from the the telugu words Ubbari Madugu meaning spring pool. A further trek of 10 kms through the hilly terrain brings you to the actual waterfalls. But this is where you should stop, for though the trek is quite scenic it isn’t really a great trek for girls and a definite no-no if you are not with a group.

In fact, halfway along the trail, once we a caught a glimpse of the distant falls, we turned back because of that unmistakable feeling of unease to go ahead, heightened only by the isolated feel of the place and the groups of youngsters looking to break free! Even the monkeys don’t venture too far out here and like to stick around in the spots where they are sure to find leftover chips and coke.

It is nevertheless a beautiful place, so depending on the size of the group you are travelling with and the time of the day, you could pace your exploration.

April 30, 2016
Ameenpur Lake: The Flamingo Story

Flamingoes, vibrantly hued and long-legged have always been popular in pop art and now with so many designers borrowing from art to add quirkiness to everything from accessories to home decor, you see these pink birds everywhere!

For all the beautiful colours of its plumage, these birds are not as popular in India as say a peacock, so they become “exotic” when found in India. After the disastrous trip this year to the Flamingo Festival at Pulicat, when I actually discovered them here, right in the city, you can imagine my joy. :)

& now I am more than excited and content about the photographs I got to click of them. Though I wager I might still go back to Ameenpur Lake to get better shots!

Not quite common knowledge, the Ameenpur Lake in Hyderabad is an expansive lake of over 100 acres, right in the backyard of one of the Industrial Areas in the city. Though more than half of it has dried up – the lake bed is chock full with shells, clearly once part of the lake itself – it still holds its ground as an important wetland area and a safe haven for migratory and local birds alike. This lake was recently adopted by the Telangana State Special Protection Force and the State Government is working towards declaring it a Heritage Biodiversity Park and has granted funds towards restoring it.

Explorers Guide

Getting There: It is just off the IDA Bollarum Road, between Miyapur & Bachupally. Use Google Maps to guide you there, besides on a weekend you can always follow the trail of vehicles heading in that direction once you are on that road.
Remember: Be there at the lake early in the morning. The locals say the flamingoes leave by around 10 in the morning and are back only in the evening. I am yet to go there later in the day though, so I am not too sure about this.

Read Next: Its a small, small world.

April 22, 2016
Poetry in Pink

Spread over a 1300 acre sprawling campus and peopled with elegant old buildings is the Osmania University in Hyderabad. The seventh oldest university in the country was brought into existence by the seventh Nizam of Hyderabad in 1918.

This beautifully green campus is so vast that its roads have long come to become regular thoroughfares in the city. So much so that, one does not even know just how many buildings are scattered around here and does not even spare more than a glance. That too when the names on the buildings get you thinking as to all the obscure possible disciplines of formal education and research available!

So it wasn’t till I actually stood under the Arts College Building one Sunday morning after I had decided to photograph it, did I realise just how smartly and tastefully this graceful old building has been designed.

Born from a farman (Royal Charter) by Nawab Osman Ali Khan, this university’s buildings were planned by Mr. Jasper, a Belgian architect, who was “found” by an expert panel of architects and engineers who had toured through Europe, America, Japan, Egypt and Turkey in the quest.

It is of little surprise then that the centre piece of this spread, the Arts College is but Poetry in Pink.

This Heritage Building of Pink Granite, which took 5 years to construct, was officially inaugurated in 1939.

Read Next: The Lost Pump House

April 16, 2016
Abseiling in The Blue Mountains

Abseiling in The Blue Mountains was one of my most memorable adventures in Australia – besides surfing at Bondi beach, of course – and also more my kind. The Greater Blue Mountains World Heritage Area is the ideal scenic weekend getaway from Sydney.

With the town of Katoomba as the base, you can spend all day in the Blue Mountains walking through the valley floor among forests that transport you to ‘Jurassic Park’, hiking back up to look out over the hazy blue forest (which gives this national park its name), all the while discovering waterfalls and rock formations along the way.

Of these, The Three Sisters sandstone turrets is the most iconic.

The Legend of The Three sisters has it that a witch doctor, Tyawan had three daughters Meenhi, Wimlah and Gunnedoo who accidentally anger the aboriginal mythical creature Bunyip, living down in the valley. To protect the sisters from the Bunyip, Tyawan then uses a magic bone to turn them to stone and himself turns into a Lyre Bird. But, in the process drops the magic bone and you see the Lyre Bird rummaging through the valley floor even today, it is said in search of this very magic bone.

In consequence, it is recognised as a place of cultural importance for the aboriginal people.

We were there for the weekend, put up at the YHA and spent a day hiking through the forest trails and up the Giant Stairway and another abseiling and sheltering under a cave watching the rain come in as the clouds closed in on us . While the evenings were spent unwinding in Katoomba. It was the perfect mix of excitement and idyllic.

I had never heard of ‘abseiling’ till I was in Sydney. Rappelling yes, but not Abseiling. Coming from the German term Abseilen for ‘to rope down’, it is a mountaineering technique where you use ropes and a belay to descend a rock face/cliff too steep to descend on foot.

As a beginner you start with 30 feet and then go on to a cliff with less foothold and more of a drop and then the final 60 feet sheer drop.

& trust me when I say you will get high on it.

For some one who loves the mountains and exploring, this was actually special, with that extra edge of adventure and I sure am glad that I did it when I could.

Imagine an escapade like that with a view like this!

April 8, 2016
The Age of Colonialism

This is my first post yet from the city where my parents grew up. :)

To me, Visakhapatnam has always only been a ‘colonial town’. So, when we were there for a day visiting my grandmother I did not want to let an opportunity go by, however small, of exploring, discovering and documenting at least a little of this beautiful, laid back city.

& as we strolled along the winding walkways of Waltair Club, I could almost picture an older, more settled me spending many a pleasant, relaxed evening here. (day dreaming!)

The fact that the club was the first to introduce electricity to Vizag, house it’s first dispensary and boast of the only telephone in town stands testimony to it’s ‘colonialism’.

Whatever it’s history may be, it still is a cool oasis of serenity in the hot and humid Vizag.

The colonial style bungalows, those grey stone walls, the clean meandering roads and the lush greenery of even the old old trees only add to the still and calm of this club established by the British way back in 1883.

March 27, 2016
Save The Sunday!

Sunday before last, I was in the Indian School of Business for their Digital Summit 2016. The “workshop” was barely more than a platform for the internet and social media giants to come and ‘perform’ their sales pitch!

So, in a bid to Save The Sunday, I walked around the campus looking to photograph anything that caught my eye. Luckily I loved photographing the wonderful symmetries, à la Jantar Mantar.

Bill wasn’t unkind or rude by nature, but now he struck. ‘I appreciate your kind invitation’, he said, ‘but I never go to the Yatch Club. I’ve never been inside it.’

Mr.Smithers looked alarmed. ‘Why not, Mr.Wainwright? Surely it’s a fine club.’

‘It isn’t that. Only you see I have a good many Indian friends – some of them very distinguished – and as you know, they are not allowed to enter the club. So I don’t go either… it seems to me rather odd considering that India is their country.

-Louis Bromfield, Night in Bombay, 1940

Atleast, they did not need a debate to decide if they were indeed an Indian Institution.

Read Next: Poetry in Pink

March 26, 2016
Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Karipakam

South Indian Silk Sarees have always been known for their elegance. Be it from Telangana, Andhra, Karnataka or Tamil Nadu, every saree is unique in its design and technique to the region. & these sarees are usually eponymous of the region they come from.

One such are the Patur Sarees, which are quite in fashion today. Cotton, Silk and Zari (gold thread) threads are hand-woven together to craft these beautiful cotton silk sarees from the Village of Patur in Nellore District and the adjoining Village of Karipakam in Chittoor District.

There were around 150 weavers in Karipakam once. Today there are only 50, the lack of patronage pushing them to find work in nearby factories. Even the working conditions are not much to speak of. Though the dying of threads and getting them ready is more of an outdoor activity, the actual weaving is done in a pit loom.

What little work now comes into the village comes from the head weaver, who gets designs from speciality retail stores like Nalli Silks and distributes it amongst the weavers.

Since, the mainstay of the village is this craft, all the villagers/weavers get together every morning to dye silk and cotton threads sourced from different places. It is a sight to see. So, if you wish to see the weavers at work, do visit the village on a sunny morning. Sunny mornings, for even the weather needs to be conducive. Too much moisture in the air dampens the thread which makes it difficult for the colour to stick.

Once, the patterns and the spindles of thread are ready, they are loaded onto the loom and the weaving begins. Keeping with the trend and also the rules set by the buying companies, a design is not usually repeated.

Zari motifs are hand-woven into the saree, which takes 2-3 days to finish depending on the number of colours in the pattern. If the same saree were to be made on a power loom, these would have to be sewn on to the saree separately.

and, this is what sets these gorgeous lightweight sarees apart.

Starting at Rs.2,500/-, the sarees can be bought directly from the weavers houses.

Explorers Guide

Getting There
By Road – The most convenient way to get there is to drive down from Tirupati. This takes a little over an hour.
By Air – Nearest airports are Tirupati and Chennai.
By Rail – Nearest railway station is at Sullurpet.

Stay
Big Stay serviced apartments at Tada. With over 200 rooms, Indian, Oriental & Continental cuisines catering to people of all nationalities visiting/working at the Sri City SEZ and a travel desk that arranges your airport drop and pick up, they ensure a comfortable stay.

Things To Do
Trekking at Naagala Hills.
Kayaking at the creek in Sri City.

Nearby Places of Interest
Pulicat Lake – India’s second largest salt-water lagoon, it is the winter home to numerous migratory birds from Central Asia, of which Flamingos and Pelicans number the most. The state tourism department hosts a Flamingo Festival here in January every year.
Nelapattu Bird Sanctuary – Also known as Pelican Paradise, it is counted amongst the popular bird sanctuaries of India.
Ubbalamadugu – Jungle Pools and waterfall.

Read More on Artisan Villages of India:

Artisan Villages of Telangana: Nirmal
Artisan Villages of Telangana: Cheriyal
Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Sri Kalahasti
Artisan Villages of Andhra Pradesh: Uppada

March 12, 2016
Standing Still: Moazzam Jahi Market

Named after Moazzam Jah Bahadur, son of the seventh and last Nizam of Hyderabad, The Moazzam Jahi Market is built entirely in stone.

Modelled after the ‘Universal Stores’ of the West, construction of this popular landmark began in 1933 by the City Improvement Board, whose President was Prince Moazzam Jah. Besides being a centrally located traders centre, it was supposed to have housed the fruit market that sent fruit to the Nizam living in the Falaknuma Palace then.

On the completion of the market in 1935, a clock was installed on the Minar facing the main street crossing. Today, this Clock Tower is iconic in the Old City of Hyderabad.

The architecture of this triangular granite structure is striking in its antiquity. Which is what probably prompted Nikon to conduct a photowalk here, the first Sunday of February. It is also on the HMDA’s Heritage Buildings List.

With remarkable archways, spiral staircases, colourful doors, flocks of pigeons and a flurry of activity from the 100+ shopkeepers setting up shop and scattering grain for the birds to feed on, the courtyard is the most integral part of this building.

81 years and this market has stood still. Not much has changed but the generations of shopkeepers and the kids that stop to binge on the “famous” handmade fruit icecream.

March 5, 2016
Of Sunny Days & Brisk Breezes

Hyderabad’s International Kite Festival found its way to a larger venue this year – away from the hustle and bustle of Necklace Road – the Aga Khan Academy near the airport.

Makara Sankranti is an important Indian Harvest Festival celebrated across the country. This day marks the return of the sun after the cold winter and is a harbinger of the coming harvest season for farmers.

Also known as Pongal in some states of the South, it gets its name from the dish that is made this day. Rice from the first harvest of the year is cooked in milk that has come to a ‘pongu’, meaning boil and sweetened with jaggery or sugar.

In Gujarat, where the biggest Kite Festival of the country takes place, it is Uttarayan. How ever many be the names that this festival is called by, the one common thread that weaves through it is the ‘flying of kites’.

India is of many religions and this is one of the celebrations that brings together, them all. For, it is believed that the custom of flying kites was brought to India by the Persian muslims!

Yes it does not make up for the nostalgia of that simple childhood joy. Of stringing up your kite with manja (thread coated with the tiniest shards of glass), running around with your spool on the terrace as you try to ‘cut’ as many kites as you can and then counting your loot at the end of it all.

But, this 2 day Kite Festival does bring to you an array of different kinds of kites from across the globe.

It is usually right after the sun rises and before the sun sets that one flies kites while it is still pleasant and the sun isn’t too sharp, but it is still breezy enough for the kites to take to the sky.

& with the setting sun, out goes the light and the International Kite Festival 2016 of Hyderabad draws to a close.

February 5, 2016
Go Flamingo, Go!

The Flamingo Festival in Andhra Pradesh is an annual affair by the State Government to increase awareness about the conservation of Flamingos, which make the Pulicat Lake their winter home. As far as I know, this 3 day festival has been happening since 2012, in January every year at the Pulicat & Nelapattu Bird Sanctuaries of Andhra Pradesh.

Only this year, there was not a Flamingo in sight.

The Pulicat Lake, which is the second largest salt-water lagoon in India, is the winter home to numerous Birds from Central Asia (of which Flamingos and Pelicans number the most). These birds come from as far as Siberia to as near as Ladakh, to mate and nest. Looking to escape the chill, they fly across continents, traversing thousands of miles of ocean.

Read: The Flamingo Story

and, what do they find when they finally reach here, their winter home?

Desolation.

Pulicat Lake, January 2015.

To get here you take the road to Sri Hari Kota, an Island off the coast of Bay of Bengal that houses the Satellite Launching Station of ISRO. This is a stretch of around 15km of road with the Pulicat Lake on either side, for as far as you can see.

When I had gone here last year, I had never seen anything like it before. The horizon was pink with flamingos and this ‘Road Through The Lake’ was like no other.

Sorry, no clear shots of the flamingos. :( This was all that I could get on my phone camera.

Pulicat Lake, NOW. January 2016.

Today the Pulicat Lake is totally choked up with sand, thanks to the roads being laid across it cutting off its water inflow from the ocean and making it unsustainable for marine life. 30,000 fishermen once depended on this lake for their livelihood.

Words fail me, as I try to describe the deliberate devastation brought to this place.

The experience of driving on that road-through the lake-to the Island, went from one end of the spectrum to the other, just like that!

No water, no marine life, no flamingos. NADA.

I have been writing this post in my head for 15 days now, but every time I add a photo or a word to the actual draft I can only feel that I am not able to do justice to the situation with my words or photographs. So here is a 15sec video from last year, which I hope paints a more accurate picture of the now no longer existent tranquil life of the Birds of Pulicat Lake.

One can only hope that measures are taken to reverse the damage and the Flamingos come back some day!

Read Next: Into The Jungle

January 27, 2016
Driving through Lahaul & Spiti

I travelled through the Lahaul and Spiti Valley of Himachal for 10 days and most of that time was spent driving on rocky roads and glacial streams. All that time, I stared awe-struck at the magnificence of the Himalayas, as we went from one place to the next, winding amidst them.

So, here is an attempt to take you down that road – a photographic journey of Driving through Lahaul & Spiti.

January 14, 2016
Islands of Singapore: Pulau Ubin

Just off the coast of mainland Singapore is Pulau Ubin, a boomerang shaped island, meaning ‘Granite Island’.

This was once home to thousands of settlers dependent on granite quarrying. Though abandoned since the 1970s and reclaimed by nature, these quarries remain a picturesque relic of the past.

Now, the few remaining villagers subsist on farming and fishing.

The fact that, this is the one last bit of the heavily urbanised Singapore that still retains its rustic village ways is what makes this a popular day trip destination.

You can go exploring this quiet island on foot or by cycling along the many bike trails. Stopping along the way for a birds eye view of the luxuriant tree canopy and flourishing bird life from the viewing tower.

A cape, surrounded by wetlands rich in bio-diversity, lies at the tip of Pulau Ubin. This is Chek Jawa and its popularity precedes it. So much so that, we were not the only ‘tourists’ who had packed a picnic lunch to eat at the lookout-jetty on the boardwalk.

& The view from here is made even more interesting with the flights taking off and landing at the Changi airport! :)

The Coastal Boardwalk runs along the coast for almost a kilometer and leads you through the mangroves to the jetty right in the middle of the Straits of Johor.

Though made of concrete, this boardwalk is built to look like wood so the effect is not jarring but goes well with the unspoilt feel of the island.

The Island of Pulau Ubin boasts of a variety of ecosystems in and as one. Coastal Forests, Mangroves, Seagrass Lagoons, Tidal Flats – both mud & sand and Coral rubbles. Where, even rocky shores and sandy beaches co-exist.

Mangroves – Protectors of shorelines.

More than even the ‘exploring on a cycle’, it was the walking through these shady mangroves that I enjoyed doing the most on this island.

May be it was my coming from the country of the Sundarbans. Or my counting The Hungry Tide and Midnights Children amongst my favourite books. I admit that ‘mangroves’ did hold a certain fascination for me. Even before I ever saw them for real.

But the experience of walking through a mangrove forest, where the sun-rays play hide and seek with you, as you hear and feel the distant breeze from the surrounding sea, definitely heightened that fascination.

Found in calm waters of low salinity, the Nipah Palm is the only true mangrove palm. Like the other palms, it is tapped for its sap that is fermented to make alcohol. While its mature fronds are used for thatching roofs & are also woven into mats & baskets. Locally though, its most recognizable use is its edible seed.

Only a short boat ride away, this island has a lot to offer and is totally worth the time!

December 19, 2015
But, first coffee.

Dubai Marina, I Love You.

But, first coffee.

The Starbucks in Marina Promenade has been my ‘Haven of Escape’ for all my time in Dubai.

This is where I would disappear to, without fail, all those late evenings right after classes and early afternoons on the weekend. It is quiet, cosy and has absolutely no crowds. Except for a straggler or two on those rare days. A perfect place to just snuggle with your cup of coffee and chocolate. Ah! Heaven.

Last week I was in Dubai and I found myself retracing those cobbled pathways of memory lane. (Sorry, couldn’t resist the pun! :D)

This Starbucks, just like the one on Marina Walk, on the other side, commands spectacular views of the Dubai Marina. But, to its credit, remains a secluded cosy corner.

& I have lost count of the number of days I have sat on that bench contemplating life and having ‘deep discussions’.

Discover Cafes in Dubai: #InSearchofCoffee

I Heart Honey Bears: Le Pain Quotidien

December 5, 2015
Sugar Rushed!

5 Eateries. 12 Desserts. A tour of the most delightful desserts in Hyderabad.

As always, I start with my favourites.First on this Dessert Trail, Eatmor at Ohris has been my go-to place, not just for desserts but for everything from fries & sandwiches to 4-course Chinese meals. The meals did happen in a different storey, but nonetheless at the same Ohris.

I have been binging on their Bulls Eye & Awful Awful from when the place was called Havmor & did not have buffet lunches!! Well, that brings in the crowds these days, but that shouldn’t deter you from trying out their shakes & desserts. They are still the best in town.

Here is Eatmor’s version of Death by Chocolate – The Bulls Eye. This one is an everyday classic with soggy soft chocolate cake and vanilla ice cream dripping with hot chocolate fudge.

This was my favourite for 6 years (yes, 6!) till I moved onto Awful Awful.

& then there was no looking back. A tall glass of vanilla ice cream, loaded with cashew nuts & chocolate fudge. Need I say more?

also, that it is a category unto itself!!

After a personal favourite, here comes a general favourite. Second on this list, Concu is Trending in Hyderabad right NOW! This sweetly done up place will make itself your own from the time you step in. A dessert-only place, it calls for indulgence right from how all those different desserts are lined up for you to choose from, to how the ones you choose are set on a wooden platter for you.

A perfect Flat Lay Photo Op, for all those food photographers & Instagrammers!

Well, here is a lowdown of what I liked from all those desserts I tried here over two trips.

Hollywood. Well, that is how it is named! Anyways, a baked american cheesecake that doesn’t taste much like a cheesecake, but has some really quirky toppings like caramelised popcorn and cola flavoured marshmallows which make it intriguing.

The Red Velvet Cupcake. This needs no introduction, Red Velvet is a classic & when it comes in a cupcake, it is a winner all the way.

Sea Salt, Caramel, Chocolate Tart. The one dessert that I will always make it a point to have every time I go to Concu. You wouldn’t be disappointed in this one. It tastes just as compelling as it sounds! Delectable chocolate mousse filling, topped with delicious buttery salted caramel & finished with bits of vanilla chocolate sponge, chocolate & sugar rolls, in a crumble crust.

Third on this Dessert-Trail is Eclairè. I love this quaint & cosy little place, with its very-english tableware that also double up as chandeliers! A small green door under a tree, takes you into this bakery. Furbished in a shabby chic style, it has only 4 tables and I think that adds to its charm. :)

The eponymous Coffee Eclair definitely deserves all the importance it gets! Its gooey chocolate filling, rich with a coffee taste, is just yum

Here are those plates (well, really saucers from the cups used in the chandelier).

Blueberry Cheesecake. Undoubtedly the best cheesecake I have had here in Hyderabad, this ties for the best dessert here with the coffee eclair. It is baked perfectly, down to the tee, or rather down to the crunchy biscuity crust.

Chocolate Macaroon in THE plate. ‘Interesting’ is all I have to say for this one.

Another red velvet dessert, The Red Velvet Tiramisu. Light and delicious, this eggless dessert from Kavanah is refreshing.

Trailing in the booming popularity of dessert-only places in the city, Kavanah opened up recently. But, is more than just a patisserie, with a range of other quick bites, in a place that is large and well laid out. The Chocolate Chunk Muffin is a must try here, purely for the big chunks of chocolate in it.

Their Chocolate Mousse is good too, with a hint of citrus in the creamy chocolate.

and, I end this dessert trail with two desserts from Olive Bistro. The place is fancy no doubt, but the desserts are not too great to taste. These pictures have made it to the list only for the sheer experience of how the Olive Bistro looks! & also because of how they have been designed and presented.

OB’s Insanity Slice, is an ice cream cake with alternating layers of ice cream and cake, topped with rich cream. Sadly, it fails to live up to how it sounds & looks.

Macaroons. Again. Blame Gossip Girl.

That was ME, Sugar – Rushed in Hyderabad!

November 14, 2015
Sunrise on Surfers Paradise

This week, I am revisiting some old memories!

Last year when I was living in Sydney, we had a study break when we were supposed to work on a project. Instead a bunch of us (read most of the class) rented an apartment on Surfers Paradise in Gold Coast & took off.

Some, including me took a flight, while other lucky ones drove down. Though I did miss taking the scenic route, I woke up to this!

A Sunrise on The Beach.

There I am in the living room, waking up, sticking my head out & see it getting light outside. So, I wake up others and we walk across from the apartment to sit on the beach and catch the sunrise.

Each of us wanders off to pick a spot & indulge in some peace and thought.

& Then, just like that, the wait is over.

and a glorious dawn breaks.

The time is more than perfect for a quite walk on the beach,

to the sound of crashing waves.

I believe a beach at this twilight hour has a completely different personality from when it gradually assumes its character as the day wears on.

Do you know of any other beaches where one could wake up to the rising sun?

Tell me! Would love to go there one day. :)

Read Next: Abseiling in The Blue Mountains

October 27, 2015
A Day on The Rottnest Island

Rottnest Island is a popular holiday island in Western Australia eighteen kilometres off the coast of Perth. This island framed by the azure waters of the Indian Ocean is a ferry ride away. Making for an ideal day trip destination.

Separated from the mainland around 7000 years ago, it is famous for its secluded bays, pristine beaches & crystal clear waters.

An A Class Nature Reserve, it is home to a range of rare and remarkable species of plant, marine & wild life. Its extensive seagrass beds provide shelter & nutrients in the shallow marine environment.

The population of Quokkas – who have lately become popular as the World’s Happiest Animal – led the Dutch seaman Willem de Vlamingh to name this island, their island, the Ratte nest (rat’s nest); which eventually became Rottnest.

I was in Sydney last year & travelled to Perth for my birthday weekend.
& that is how I found myself for a day on the Rottnest Island.

The first thing we did as soon we got to the island was to find a map & hire a bike.

Bikes are the transportation of choice on this island! (As you can see from the picture above :D)

But, you can also choose to hop on & off the bus or book one of the tours including a historic train ride, which bring to life the colonial heritage of the island.

So, what else can one do besides enjoying the sweeping ocean views, scenic salt lakes & moors and the sights of trees shaped by years of oceanic winds?

Eat at waterfront restaurants with a view like this.

Swim, dive, snorkel, fish, sail.. laze on the beach!

Discover shipwrecks.

There are such a number of great trails to follow & brilliant sights to explore that I came away feeling a day is just not enough!

PS: Google Maps are just as fun, though not so pretty!

Read Next: Sunrise on Surfers Paradise

Read More on Australia:

Abseiling in The Blue Mountains

September 6, 2015
The Road to Serenity: Chandratal Lake

My first ever camping experience, back in the summer of 2013, was at the incredibly beautiful Chandratal Lake in Spiti Valley, a cold desert valley that is the middle land between India and Tibet.

A sweet water glacial lake in the Himalayas and the source of the Chandra River, the Chandratal Lake is a RAMSAR Convention designated wetland of international importance. It is also believed that the elusive Snow Leopard calls the catchment area of this lake its home. Though I wasn’t fortunate enough to catch a glimpse.

Where is Chandratal Lake?

Chandratal Lake is in Spiti Valley, Himachal Pradesh. A valley – in the hinterland of the Indian Himalayas – bordered by Ladakh to its North and Tibet to its East.

Nearest Airport | Kullu – Manali Airport, Bhuntar
Nearest Railway Station| Shimla
Nearest Major Town | Manali

Why should you visit Chandratal Lake?

To pitch a tent amidst the magnificent Himalayas on a freezing summer night and to sleep under the starlit sky is amazing enough in itself. But if the campsite was to be at this remote and not-so-easily accessible Moon Lake, there then you have the trip of a lifetime guaranteed!

READ: 20 Photos to Inspire You to Visit Spiti Valley this Summer

How to reach Chandratal Lake?

Manali to Chandratal Lake

Distance | 140 Kilometers
Mode of Travel | Road
Drive Time | 8 – 10 Hours
Route | Manali ? Rohtang Pass ? Gramphu ? Chhatru ? Batal ? Kunzum Pass ? Chandratal
(via Leh – Manali Highway)

This is the most popular and also the most convenient way to get to Chandratal. We left from Manali early morning & it was by evening that we reached Chandratal. After a slight delay at a roadblock on the Rohtang Pass due to a landslide, we made quick stops for breakfast & lunch at Gramphu and Batal. Then the mandatory stop at the Temple on Kunzum Pass & we were at Chandratal, just in time for the setting sun.

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In Photos: Chandratal Lake

The Chandratal Lake in all its glory.

First glimpse of Chandratal, as you reach the end of your hike from the campsite.

The walk that leads up to it..

& here you are at the lake.

Did you know?

The Chandratal Lake reflects the colour of the sky.

This image was shot at sunrise, just when the lake starts to appear – a clear blue mirror of reflections.

& as the sun sets, it turns green.

From the minute you get to the lake, an all-consuming sense of peace washes over you. Adding to the serenity of the lake are the Buddhist prayer flags fluttering in the breeze.

My life changed when I lay eyes for the first time ever on the mighty Himalayas. Their sheer magnificence is humbling. So, it is but natural that the experience of spending time at this pristine lake, nestled in the snow kissed mountains, totally transports you to another time and place.

Read More on Spiti Valley:

Where The Monasteries are.
a Fortress, a Monastery & a Lake: Dhankar
Driving through Lahaul & Spiti

June 28, 2015